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Hey guys so I worked out a solution for holding down the shins... I saddle-stitched a length of elastic with a rectangle of leather to the front of each boot with a little webbing grab loop and a snap. Super easy to snap into the front of my shins before I close the shins in back. So we took a bunch of photos - what's stopping me from putting this in for app? Thanks all!

Looking forward to seeing what you receive

I can imagine Getting it from sanotized creations so I’m hoping it’s good

Clint is the only person I/m aware of that documented a Heavy Gunner cannon build

THIGHS: The thighs came pretty well trimmed with most of the excess material already removed. In order to make the front of the thighs look consistent in width (i.e. the right side joint is in the proper position, as well as the overlap joint on the inside), I trimmed a minimum amount of material from each side of each front piece. Once trimmed, I did a quick test fit with the untrimmed back of the thigh. I marked specific locations (forgot to take a picture) and trimmed only the outside seam piece that will butt joint against the front part. I used the sanding table to get the 2 edges as close to even with each other as possible. At this point, I used painters tape on the inside seam to temporarily act as the joint strip. I do this so I an mark where I need to trim the top and bottom of the back thigh piece. I then superglue the abs strip on the inside of the outer portion of the thigh. I place magnets on it for about 5 minutes to allow for good adhesion. I trim the top and bottom pieces for a smooth line between them. Then another test fit to determine where I need to cut the overlap for the inside of the thigh. Once cut and trimmed, I added the velcro. Next will be to add the greeblies (clips). Then once all the other armor is done, I will perform a test fit and trim more off before painting and strapping.

Thank you, the pics would not cooperate. I tried to figure out how to delete them with no luck. Ugh! Will work on other pics asap. Thank you so much! Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Welcome, Larry, and congrats on your build thread! I realize that you want to get your armor built as soon as possible, but it's paramount that you don'r rush. Consider it more of a marathon than a sprint. Trust me, it will pay off in the end. I'll start you out with a few suggestions, and I'm sure others will add some as well, but keep asking as many questions as you like and posting photos! 1. Since you will be eventually aiming for Centurion, I would go ahead and remove the return edge on your wrists before you glue them together. This includes the area in the "hump". You can also remove those edges in a lot of other places and still be screen accurate. You can also remove those edges in a lot of other places and still be screen accurate. Note how the "scoop" is cut out on the top of the forearm below. This keeps that return edge from cutting into you while bending your arm (holding your E-11). You should also remove that entire area on the top(s) of the thighs. I suggest removing all the return edges from the tops. As they are now that point will poke into you and possibly snag your undersuit, plus, removing those edges will stop possible cutting into and chafing in your, uh... well let's just say "nether regions". As for the ABS paste, this is what I suggest: 1. Make it to about the consistency of toothpaste. 2. Put a piece of painter's tape behind the hole(s)... (stops it from leaking through). 3. Add just enough to fill the hole with a tiny bit extra. Do NOT overfill it too much. 4. Wait 24 hours for it to dry, then sand down with fine grit sandpaper until smooth. 5. Polish out the scratches with NOVUS or a similar product.

Hi Pam and thank you for your EIB application. Idealy the photos are correctly oriented but as you already put some effort in to fixing them I will sort them out for you We do however need some additional photos: # Helmet - lens color. # Cod fixing - outside. # Thigh ammo fixings - inside/outside. # Sniper knee - straight on photos showing the front/left/right.

Thanks guys.

https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33797-ranks-whats-good-rank-in-the-good-side/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice work, looking good, hope to see you approved very soon

Looking good, you may want to straighten the brow trim, it's on a slight slant. You may want to remove a little of the paint from the gum area of the teeth. Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Also clean up the black lines on the ears.

Absolutely nothing - great work Just a little something though, in these pics the biceps look a bit big at the elbow. I would also place the shoulder straps ”a bump” forward to get more clearence in the back.

I have started hitting the parts with filler primer, this way I can see better all the areas and pin holes that need to corrected. I let the primer cure for 24 hours before starting to go over with the glaze and spot putty. From here I will let it dry for another 24 hours and then start to wet sand with 400 grit.

For the helmet I actually just wet sanded with 400 grit, let it dry and then hit with some filler primer. Got some areas that will need some glazing and spot putty before moving forward. A question I did have about the black on the helmet, is it gloss or matte? I have been seeing both ways on builds, and need some clarification.

Nice job on this armor, Ardshir! One thing you will need to do before the D.O.s can move forward with your submission is to change out the screws on your TD. As per the current CRL requirements for level 2: Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and be black (two per clip). Reference image You will probably be asked to include a photo showing the D-ring on the rear of your blaster as well. There are a few other small items, but the D.O.s will go over those in your review. See you at EI soon, Trooper!

BICEPS: I AM GOING TO POST NEW PICTURES I laid out the untrimmed biceps components. Using a sanding table I quickly sanded off the extra. If you do not have a sanding table, I highly recommend you get one. It saves a lot of time and makes it much easier to shape. Also, I used some of the excess material to make the inside cover strip that will hold 2 of the pieces together. Using Superglue, I glued the first piece of the bicep (long side) to the strip. Used magnets to hold in place for a couple of minutes. Next, I glued it to the other long side of the bicep. I used the sanding table to ensure the 2 ends were straight and flat so it makes for a clean line between the 2 pieces. Next, I sanded down the greeblie. Then using a heating gun, i shaped it to the insert on the bicep where it will be placed. I then superglued it on. Next, i used white industrial strength velcro for the connection of the other 2 pieces. I cut it too length and installed the rougher side on the outside piece and the softer loop side of the velcro on the piece that faces out from the bicep. It closes easily. All finished....minus cleanup and final painting.

I have built a couple of KB props FO's for my garrison mates, I currently have a couple of video on Youtube on how I did it. I also just helped a member in AZ finish her KB Phasma, she just needs to paint it. I have also helped some Californians build there armor, one mailed it to me and two others came down and I helped them build the armor over three days.

When sizing limb pieces, (especially forearms and thighs), I recommend removing all excess return edges for a perfect fit before gluing. Leaving return edges at the top of the thighs can cause chafing, and the wrist opening of the forearm should have no return edge at all. Some folks like to leave a bit on to give the armor a thicker look in certain areas, but for the most part the armor used in the films was trimmed down a lot, as seen in the photos below. You can (and should) leave some return edges on the tops of the calves and bottom of the thighs, though. The reason behind trimming them before final gluing is that if you need to remove them in the future you may have too much room, causing the piece to be loose. If you have any questions, it's always best to post up a few detailed photos of the issue before final gluing so that we can help you out. I suggest using blue painter's tape to hold things together for sizing / photos.