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So yes, I just got my approval email, applied on the legion site, and I'm really hoping my top ID choice remains available... now to sign up for Brickfest (and a few more troops, let's be real!) and start those Centurion upgrades. This thread will remain updated with those improvements so don't consider this a closing or anything but... THANK YOU to everyone who helped me get this far. Every reply was and is appreciated, with the exception of maybe Frank. You guys are the best and it's a privilege and an honor to join you.

I'M IN!!!!!

What Tony said. When building use the screen as your reference, not anovos promo and keep an eye on the CRL. I can't see anything major happening it's more likely to be clarifications. Ultimately there's a few CRLs with stuff that's straight up wrong so if you're unsure ASK. Bring the bit of the CRLs wording and and image from the screen and we can figure it out.

Here is the folding stock (outlined in red): This particular one is of the "functioning" type, but the ones that are molded in (Hyperfirm/Praetorian) as Tony mentioned are completely fine all the way to level 3.

https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=praetorian blasters&epa=SEARCH_BOX

Hi, The day has finally come, the Doopydoo's resin kit has arrived and I can start building. My current plan for this build: - I picked up parts of a real folding stock (mainly the buttplate) and some mold/resin kit to make a resin version of the buttplate. In addition to the parts from T-Jay and some trimming of the doopy stock, I should be able to get it working. Now I know it won't be as sturdy as a real folding stock, but I want to make it working and keep the lighter weight. - I'm going to add Arduino electronic, super bright led in the nozzle, speakers for sound, led bar graph for the ammo count in place of the Hengstler counter digits - There will be a working charging lever/bolt that when pulled back will actually trigger the reloading. I think this will be the hardest part for the electronics. Im still debating how to actually implement it. Do I make it so you have to pull all the way back and then it will fully reload, or do I make it incremental, so pulling back halfway only recharges have the ammo count, etc, perhaps steps at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and full. If anyone else has any additional ideas I'd love to hear them. I picked up a more accurate replacement resin magazine, but it hasn't arrived yet. Here's to a fun build, more to come. Brett

My suggestion as mentioned on numerous Anovos build threads, if you have plenty of room between your arm and the armor only trim so that your left with roughly 8mm flat surface on each side for the cover strip, starting with the forward facing (or upward) surface. If you have to take a little off at a time, it's much easier to remove material then it is to add it. Even if it's loose when assembled just add fabric foam to the interior when finished. The forearms are proportional to the biceps and bells, same with the legs. If you trim too much off one area the armor will look odd when you're done.

Ciao, Fabio! Thank you for taking the time to submit your armor for Expert Infantry! We will be with you shortly. Also, thank you for submitting those additional photos so quickly. You're really on top of things! Before we can proceed with the review, we will need a detail shot of your right side with your arms raised. Much appreciated!

Or they didn’t like me to being with... congrats, hopefully I’ll see you at Brickfest Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Patience, Grasshopper...

...the waiting is killing me.

If you were writing the OT CRLs today, overlap wouldn't be allowed, guaranteed. As Q's said a lot of the OT stuff is that way because history and it takes a lot to get the changes to happen on the core, old CRLs in a way that would break compatibility for some of the older kits. If you look back everything changes in 2012 when the blue ray release happened. All of a sudden there was a ton of high res reference and a huge influx of people. One lead to better kits, the other lead to a lot of momentum that made it harder to change stuff. It's also too easy to assume that the 501st is the only game in town. Yes we bought a lot of the OT Anovos kits but I'd wager we were less than 50% and it's probably similar for the First Order ones. The rest go to fans to troop with other less strict groups, fit on dummies in their hobby room, get worn twice at conventions or Halloween, or who knows what else they do with them.

Looks great

The CRLs are supposed to be updated sometime this year but don't expect drastic changes. The FISD is about uniformity not prop replication so unless it is blatantly obvious I'd be surprised to see things like greeblie details mentioned in the current levels of accuracy . If the staff implements a 4th level of accuracy I suppose prop replication would be the focus there. Anyway, let's take one day at a time. First the BBB then the assembly. In the mean time take a moment and mull over build threads currently pinned or other in the build sections. Though undoubtedly there'll be differences with your build there'll also be many similarities.

You may want to get in touch with @ukswrath. When it comes to electronics, he has a ton of items for sale! Hre is a link that may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35211-ukswraths-go-to-thread/

Hi Brian! Unfortunately, you may be limited to what type of kit you can use. The Doopydoos (link below) Hengstler counter is solid resin, but can be hollowed out with a bit lot of work and a Dremel tool and the right bits, and the scope can be hollowed out (to a point) as well. The barrell is also quite thick (but somewhat hollow) and would be more of a challenge. A 3D printed kit may be your best option, but will require a lot of sanding/filling to eliminate the print lines (very important, trust me). Just be sure that there are no obvious on/off switches as seen in the video. Since the electronics are installed in parts that are held on with screws, if it were me I would wait until after you get approved at Centurion to add them. The reason being is that for level 3 we are looking for the "ideal" weapon, and although the additions are definitely cool, they were not seen/used in the original films. You may be a "noob" (I prefer the term "future trooper) but that's what we are here for, so please feel free to ask any and all questions you may have... it's what we do here! https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp

As mentioned on other threads here and on FB sites, take the Anovos instructions with a grain of salt. The kit will need to be altered regardless but don't fret as the builds begin we'll be here to help you through it.

Nothing has to be functional, it just has to look correct. I have several Praetorian blasters, all are top notch grade and 100% L3 accepted.

Trimming may never end... But I did finish the helmet!

cool. sent a message! thanks again.

Ab ammo belt button covers, home made. I was asked if this was possible so I tried it. 22-23mm. 15-17mm 15mm snap button. Drill a hole to hold it steady and flat. Use a piece of the trimmed armour ABS. Drill a hole about 17mm into a scrap piece of cover strip. This is the press piece. Should fit around the button with a gap. Mark the edge of the press to line up the work piece Like this. Tape the work piece down lined up on the line. Heat it with a heat gun to soften it. Then push the press down over it until it’s flat around the bump. Ready to trim. I marked and cut a square out. Use it to mark the button for cutting and sanding. This is a guideline to get close. Cut, measure and sand until it’s sized and square. One done. The next two go faster because you’re all set up. Hope this helps anyone who needs these.

Congratulations and welcome! I may hit you up for Inferno help- I'm working with a friend to build hers for entry into the 501st.

Motivated from the almost finished blaster, i added the front sight guard to the tube. Thanks to Fieldmarshal... To create the small hole for the guard i drilled holes and just tried until the guard is fitting... Have a great evening ... ;-)

Awesome! Looking forward to see some brand new troop reports https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/13-field-training-exercises/

Finally, the folding stock got attached… it took me a long time to get that done as this needed very accurate work here. If the drilling is not positioned centrally, the folding stock won’t be able to get attached in the front. To attach the folding stock, I used a stainless steel cylinder, drilled holes on both ends and added screw threads as well. I used the screws of Tino here, with minor modifications. Thanks for reading and commenting...