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So today's armour party at my place was amazing. I owe Robert (twosolitudes) and Brad (68Brick) a huge debt of thanks. I should be able to wrap it all up tomorrow if I grind hard. Brad got me through heating and reshaping the sniper knee (pics to follow). I got to put on most of my suit for the first time, and they helped me with all the spacing. I could NOT have gotten my suit to the level it will be without their selflessness and expertise. We also welcomed Mark (Markweller) and helped him finally get started on his Anovos build that had been collecting dust for over 2 years. All of us live within 20 minutes of each other.

5 minutes with a hair dryer and the curve is much less aggressive. Here is it with just the elastic to retain it.

Seriously, this is awesome

Thanks everyone! I think the combination of Brad's guidance and experience along with the cuts I put in the corners may be a not-so-secret-any-more recipe. The shoulder straps are overcurved from the boiling process and that's why they look so close together in the photo. We aligned the heck out of everything and they're glued dead on the lines we used. I'll post more pics later with this morning's progress. Time to go unclamp and move on to more stuff. Ammo boxes, TD and the last of the strapping. Brad had me trim my forearms a bit so I need to redo those cover strips. If all goes well I might be doing basic submission in a day or two.

I thought I recognized that face you handsome devil!! Mos Eisley cantina, last June.... that was YOU dancing on the bar??? Seriously, though, thanks for that. I literally laughed for 5 minutes.

Looking awesome, sir! It may just be me, but I gotta' admit this photo gives me a little concern: They seem awfully close together... do they line up in the center of the tabs on top of the back plate ok??

Unless you use a drill on a regular basis, you can get a reamer. It is a tool similar to an awl that has blades built in on the sides, and all you do is twist it in until you get the right width hole you need. VERY easy to both use/control and no need for a drill. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dubro-2331-Body-Reamer-Scissors-Set-3-R-C-Body-Tools-T-Maxx-E-Maxx/390937023826?hash=item5b05a99552:g:Z1UAAOSwr~dZjfvK:rk:6:pf:0

now with added colour

Chris I just want to say, what a great job you have done on the sniper plate. I have built 3 AP kits now and can tell you the plate just never aligns quite straight. The small gap underneath the centre should be irrelevant as it is not part of the CRL and not a photo that is asked for in the application process. To get it as close as you have and to have the sides aligned with the top ridge is a masterful effort, well done. Centurion is well and truly within your grasp.

Nice work Johan

Thanks Mark, All the trim work is fine and no complaints there, many AP kits at centurion level with similar ears. Certainly lots of variations in both movie used and 501st members. I’m just thinking of how to tweak the ears for my own preference and look.

Hi Robert For all the leg parts I left as much material as possible, the left ear is not too low, if you look at the movie original it has the same spacing at the top showing some overlap compared to the right, you can tighten the screws a bit more they seem a bit loose on the round ear section, both left and right ear are trimmed right at the trim line can't leave anymore material but you can sand in strategic places to bring the hook section of the Right ear closer minimizing the gap, but like the original gaps are normal especially the right one seem to always have more gaps.

Oh I'm much prettier than he

It can amaze people how much can be achieved at armor parties, many have built their own costumes and what seems hard for a newbie is just common practice for an experienced builder. Looking good, won't be long now

Great job on the helmet, any plans to offer these to others?

Nice work. :-) If you want to go a little more into it, just be aware that the cocking handle is currently backwards and that the rear sight could sit a little closer to the end cap. As per the FISD blaster reference, for the rear sight “leave a little gap (about 2mm) to the raised end of the receiver tube (locking notch band”. Love those Doopy kits. Keep yo the good work. :-)

I only posted this a few months ago, which is why you may not have seen it. The best diagram I have is from Jeff (wingnut65) of the Tampa Bay Squad (below). The only difference in mine is that I use 2 snaps on the shoulder bell to shoulder bridge connection.