Leaderboard

Congrats on your approval! Looking sharp! Yeah, this hobby is addictive and not very friendly to one's wallet. But totally worth it!

Brilliant, thanks all, much appreciated.

HI mate, The guys are correct, you can reach me via email [email protected] Many thanks, Paul

Ok, thank you. My friend and IMPERIAL brother Rietzer, who has recently obtained the Expert status, will send me the correct ones. Thanks Bro. When I perform the change I will upload the photos. Enviado desde mi SM-G930F mediante Tapatalk

Newly approved member of Titan Garrison. TK ID 53175. I am 42 years old and have been wanting to build a stormtrooper armor set for many years. When I finally pulled the trigger on purchasing armor, my family thought I had lost my mind. 6 months later here I am. Ready to troop!!! Thanks to everyone here who offered advice and help. This is an ATA ANH Stunt build. I should have chosen a less expensive hobby!! I want to do another build.... You don't know me, I can stop whenever I want. LOL I think I'm addicted. This photo added from a post on FISD.

Submitted my photos this morning for 501st HWT approval. May shoot for EIB once I get cleared. Here are some other random photos we took for fun. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ha! I plan to, just maybe with a different armor manufacturer if it comes down to it.

Hang in there Eric - stay true to First Order

Not mentioned but I tried that and the ”lumpiness” of the RS helmet made it difficult to achieve a good effect and I didn’t want to smooth it out by sanding any more. I’m going to do a dust-spray between the two and see how that works. I will test the ”dropping-method” first and if that doesen’t work I have plan B ready

Hi Daniel, This might have been mentioned already, but... if you sand the back part with really fine sandpaper, the colour should lighten. Plus, it would be more matte like the reference helmet. And I second Paul on the liquid mask. Stuff is great for the chipped effect - plus it gives you awesome control of the shape and size of the chip. Depending on the paint/surface you use, it may even leave a pealed effect or tears along the edge of the paint. Worth a test at least. Interesting thread, btw.

You have to be super careful. You could actually make a blemish more apparent by painting it. I cant remember whos kit I was looking at a few months ago that tried painting it after they used ABS plastic and it looked bad. I think they ended up ordering more parts. I cant wait to see how it turns out though. Might even be able to show us some of these issues and we can tell you if its something needing fixing. Some things just add to the character of the armor, and wont keep you from approval

Awesome, I think a lot of us have done the same thing so its an easy spot for us when someone else posts it. and im so happy I got a shiny ABS from AM armor, no painting needed

3D print are in progress. They have been printed, and today I started prepping them. I ran into a few problems, as I'm new to 3D printing, but got it solved. I had the three tubes on the Hengstler in the print, but they got damaged when I tried to drill them out. So now they're brass tubing instead. Perhaps a little too large. The M38's body will be covered with a cast texture, therefore I'm not putting too much work into cleaning it up. And I'm getting more and more surplus, as the project evolves. Now the DD M38 and Hegstler I bought are just extra bits. Either for a later more static build. Or will be sold.

Looking sweet! The thinner wires as Christian recommended look much better too. Sometimes just a slight shift in size/scale can make the difference.

That’s also the email listed on his 501st member page https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=16605

He should still receive the email though even if it is used for PayPal payments

Hey it’s not up to me I look after the newsletter, but those are also listed on the CRL update thread that I and others have been requesting changes, this has been ongoing since July and hopefully be remedied soon. I believe generic images have been used across CRL’s for sometime and a lot need updating, holster, TD and others.

Yepp Nope - still on the fence about it (actually not that frustrated but it´s a funny emoji)

Lorelei nailed it. You can also pick one up at Trooperbay.com. Oh and btw good to see you back at it. Keep up the good work

Attention all our brilliant, talented designers and graphic artist We are getting very close to cut off times for manufacturing of merch for Celebration 2019 so this is your opportunity to again be creative and show us what you can do. Your design could be used on T-shirts, decals, and patches We have a competition thread running for designs as we did last year so, please submit your ideas and designs as soon as possible. Heres the link

Man my friend is a TK idiot he had no idea. Good thing he didn’t do a ROTJ one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Correct I pinged that yesterday on the ROTJ CRL update thread

You're welcome Your RAL 7034 looks a lot better colour than what I received. I opted for a matte finish but the colour was very yellowish, unfortunately. I will try another supplier next time and see if the colour is any better. Another tip that I know a lot of people don't believe in is not to use red primer on the ears. Evidence shows the original helmets were painted in white primer without the ears when they were sent to the studio from SDS. So I would say spray the red primer first before using a white primer. I like to just spray red primer around the opening of the helmet to get over-spray inside for added effect. No need to spray the entire helmet red

Here I am to show progress thus far ... I figured out a way to upgrade my 'wings' - I originally made them out of thin aluminum and thickened them with plasticard but it didn't hold when I attempted to make the three 1/16" holes using a drill bit. I now have one made of plasticard entirely and then thickened the 'wings' I also did away with my initial attempt at rear resisters. I now have them at the correct OD and length. I went out and bought a black plastic tube. The inner wire is 1/16". I will use some armorture wire to get the insulated wire additions in due time as well. Just moving along like a snail; slowly but surely [emoji1] Sent from my SM-G390W using Tapatalk

Update, Ok so I got around to casting the shoulder straps in Simpact 60A. his stuff is an off white urethane rubber that is fairly stiff. I added Smooth-On’s white pigment to the mix to ensure a proper white color. Mixing and set-up is fairly simple and no need to gas the product. I poured the first one and demolded it 2 hours later. I placed it on some wax paper and let it cure for a full 24 hours. It was a little tacky but I figured out that was the mold release. I washed it with some warm soapy water and presto! One complete flexible shoulder strap done. So, I made another one, then I made two with a piece of Velcro sewn to a piece of white nylon webbing and imbedded them on the back side of the shoulder straps. After the straps were cured, I used my hot knife to cut the excess webbing off and I think they came out equally nice. The webbing adds some stiffness to the strap, but I really don’t think it is needed. My primary goal with the nylon was to have a surface for the Velcro. I will see if any of the silicone based adhesives I have will stick to the urethane. If they do I will add Velcro to the other two straps. Once I have the process down, I will be offering these to whomever wants to purchase them. I am not looking to make any real money on them so they will go for just a bit over the cost of materials and shipping. I am figuring about 30 bucks for a set of two shipped to the US and Canada. Elsewhere the shipping may be a few bucks more. Regardless, once I get all this sorted, I will post the straps for sell in the proper forum. Thanks for the interest.

Are you talking to me..? If so....ok....understod...just a bit busy looking for those droids..there WAS someone in the pod, the tracks go on in that direction

The easiest way to get started is to use MDF. Medium Density Partial board. Every home depot type store has it. You can cut pieces and glue them together to form a block from which to start cutting and sanding . Best to have some good tools , dremel , bench sanders , you can never have too many tools. Another thing to keep handy is some Bondo. It's for doing body work on cars but you can use it on wood too. Dries quick so use it fast. But if you sand too much off of the wood, just slap some Bondo on and start reshaping. That's one way that's quick and easy to get started. Although, getting your molds to look the way they are supposed to takes some time and tweaking, and tweaking, and more tweaking if you get my point. Don't expect quick satisfaction. It's a art form that takes time to refine. I'm very handy with building things but found this to be very challenging. On the flip side..... it is a lot of fun and so very rewarding when you get things to look good. Keep asking questions, others may have more ideas to share. Good luck, Tom