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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/31/2018 in Posts

  1. Good evening fellow builders :-) I want to share my latest project. I really love the TLJ Stormtrooper design and wanted to create my own version. But due to the fact that there are literally SO many out there already, I thought about what I can add to make it more unique. I thought about making it a 3 piece helmet. Main helmet, black insert and nose plate + the additional greeblies. This would result in very sharp lines between the black and white. The black insert will we SLA printed, molded and cast in deep black resin. I got the 3D model from Die 3D Schmide and want to share 2 pictures. :-) The parts are getting printed at the moment, I will post more pictures when I have the physical prop in hand All the best Dino
    2 points
  2. I was just looking at what I needed to get EIB, yes I am planning on it.
    2 points
  3. I would definitely take Andrew's great advice on trimming down the top of the neck area on the chest plate. The reason being is that Anovos kits are notorious for splitting there and on the sides. (See highlighted areas in photo). I highly suggest cutting some long curved strips of scrap ABS (about 1/4 inch wide) to reinforce these areas on the inside, (second photo) and try to use one long strip if possible. It doesn't have to be pretty, as these areas are not seen, and it will not affect approval at any level.
    2 points
  4. No problems Luc. Unfortunately the ROTJ CRL has not been updated. We are still working through it so it is something we don't have to update over and over again. New stuff with the ROTJ armor just keeps on popping up all the time. Gotta love good and clear photos!
    2 points
  5. I have a Vader and am working on a Chewie, I was just hoping for a TK because it is so iconic
    1 point
  6. You guys know that I've made TFA helmets and TLJ Helmets. The TFA that was designed by Roy Gilsing was a work of art and really as close as I've ever seen to the screen used prop. The TLJ offering I had was much less so. It was a great helmet but it had some issues. I've had a look at the files and renders of this helmet from Dino and I can say without a doubt it's the best helmet you will find without paying your first born. The construction will tkae the hardest part of finishing these helmets and make it easy. Just paint the separate colors, done I think this TLJ helmet will be the best available and the absolute helmet to have. I'm already lining up for mine.
    1 point
  7. This trigger might be the one you are looking for made of plastic ------------
    1 point
  8. OK you convinced me. I designed one and it's printing now... fingers crossed!
    1 point
  9. Like Phil said take evenly from both sides. So far as cover strips go biceps and forearms get 15mm strips, thighs and shin fronts get 20mm strips and the shin closure strip is 25mm. Good luck on your build. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
    1 point
  10. Great to see you here Ed! A few months ago I was in your shoes, terrified of the first cut. Trust me it gets easier About the trimming, I did all mine on equal sides. Luckily my arm pieces fit good with the accurate cover strip widths. The screen used coverstrips were a bit wonky but try to aim for these: Biceps/Forearms: 15mm Thighs front/back: 20mm Shins front: 20mm Shins back: 25mm I used bigger strips on my thighs and shins to fit my legs. As long as it looks uniform it should be no problem to deviate a bit For return edges, remove ALL return-edge on wrist-side of forearms and ankle/boot side of shins for accuracy and comfort. Everything else you can trim to comfort, some prefer return edge as it gives the illusion of thickness. I'd recommend checking some of the build threads (ukswraths anovos build) is a good one, and also go look at the approved Centurion applications Oh and post a lot of pictures!
    1 point
  11. I was 13 when ANH came out, and I distinctly remember sitting in the theater seeing those TKs bursting into the Tantive IV and thinking "coolest... thing... EVER"!
    1 point
  12. Small update today, the torso strapping is cured and so far done. I glued on the button plates. The poppers for the belt were installed in the last build session, but I forgot to mention it. Fortunately I found some that work with the ones already installed in the belt. Here is the torso: I worked further on the arm strapping, the snap straps to the torso are installed as well as the loops for the bicep and a connection to the bicep: In the biceps I have glued the 5cm elastic for the connection to the forearm: I am still struggling with finally making the leap and cut the backs of the thighs.
    1 point
  13. Hey all, I just realized that I jumped ahead a bit. I was so excited to post a pic of the armor that I forgot to finish my posts on the helmet. The green lens material that comes with the AP kit is a little "thin" in my opinion. Apparently it's accurate to the movie but I preferred something a little darker so I picked up the darker lens from TrooperBay. I tried fitting the material in as a single strip, but I couldn't get the material to sit flush against the eye sockets, so I option to install the eyes individually. First this was to head to Home Depot and pick up some Tee-Nuts. Leaving the base as (roughly) a circle was going to make them too large so I cut two sides off the base using my dremel. This allowed me to position the T Nuts around the eye socket. I then cut away the plastidip around the eye and used Sugru to surround the bases and attach them to the helmet. Sugru is kinda hard to find in Canada. I finally found some at "Home Hardware" but they only had the mixed box of colors. So I ended up with black, grey and white. Oh well, I'll paint over them. :-) Give the sugru lots of time to dry. I think they said it dries at a depth of 2mm per day. While waiting I did a "rubbing" of the eye sockets and then hand drew a cleaner version with a buffer around each lens to attach each to the T nuts. And cut out the lens material... I resprayed the plastidip around the eyes then I marked the hole locations on the lens material, drilled the mounting holes and screwed down each lens. I picked up some tactical helmet pads from Amazon. It took some experimenting to decide the best locations for the padding. I wanted it to grab onto my head so the helmet wouldn't flop around. It works pretty well, although I think I'd still like a bit more on the sides of my head. Next I started work on the fans and microphone. I picked up an Aker MR1505. I found you can remove the metal head band and just keep the mic and boom. It velcro's nicely to the side of the helmet. Then I picked up an Anker "big lipstick" style USB battery and I got a fan kit from Ukswrath. I got the fan bracket as well but ended up only using pieces of it. The bracket that the fans attach to is really cool. It fits perfectly in the helmet and looks awesome, but the only place I could find to fit my big usb battery was a the back of the helmet. With the battery there, I couldn't make use of the fan bracket. So I took the bracket apart and used velcro to attach the fans inside the helmet. I took the power switches off the bracket and attached them to the lower ear screws. One on each side. So if I'm trooping, I can individually turn the fans on an off while in costume. It works really well but that USB battery might just be a hair too big. I can BARELY squeeze my head in. Once I'm in, it's fine. Mark
    1 point
  14. Thanks that helped alot
    1 point
  15. Congratulations once again Jason, welcome to the ranks and FISD trooper
    1 point
  16. I had a similar issue. Hopefully you used E6000 glue. I removed mine from the chest plate then put the armor on with blue painter's tape from the underside so I could see where it actually fit me. I then put the shoulder straps on and marked where they needed to go. Mine were skewed to the outside a little like yours need to be then took the armor off and glued them down. The elastic holds them down but I don't think it will correct yours when you are actually trooping.
    1 point
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