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Haha thanks guy! I guess that now I just have to stick the template properly on the lid and paint... Oh well, I wonder how it's gonna go! I'll post more pics when I'll have the time to give it a coat.

Packing (from my perspective). NOTE: Old shirts placed in between most sections. 1) Ab, Kidney and Posterior remain together and are placed on one end of the tote with the ab buttons facing the foam. 2) Inside the Ab I place the thighs, inside the thigh shins. 3) Chest and Back are next, collapsed, nothing inside. 4) Next helmet and boots. 5) Drop in the smaller storage box above the helmet and boots. 6) Place belt and soft goods and belt above chest/back . 7) Forearms drop inside shins, biceps and and bells lay across everything else.

For a helmet an RS or TM is just about the best you can get in my opinion. And at 5`6 you will definetly be able to use RS or TM for armor, there is some work yes but there`s plenty here that has downsized their kits with great sucess, here`s three examples

Did somebody call for the Tube Stripe Police?? ;-) Yeah, that looks good. Based on the Dave M lid, the front stripes lean forward, like you have it displayed, almost ending up parallel to the line of the frown. Sheriff out... ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ha ha! I can say with some higher level of certainty, that yes - that is the right way. We learn from our mistakes. The build is looking really good!

Looking good I will leave this to Dan @CableGuy but I`d say you are good *fingers crossed*

Also, I am thinking about painting the tube stripes on the helmet maybe this week when I get some time! And I thought I'd ask just to make really really sure that they would be placed correctly... I'm pretty sure it's okay, but I just don't want to do the same thing as Greg - putting them on the wrong side and having to re-do the front! I admire you for going through that, mate! So, if I put the templates this way, that's okay, right? Would be awesome if the official-tube-stripe-police-sheriff would chime in and confirm, too! Haha! ;D

As a matter of fact Kirill none of this is required, especially the "mic clicks". Some will even say adding anything to the armor takes away from the accuracy of it. I say bla! to that lol . There are plenty of inexpensive routes you can take, the reason we mention the above systems is because of experience. I have a box full of spare speakers, amps, mics, etc from the years of testing however, these aren't for everyone. Being creative is what this hobby is all about. You never know you might be the one to develop the next cool system

As long as the coverstrip looks as it should you are good, meaning covering all/most of the rasied edge

In all honesty if budget is an issue, just the speaker will be fine. I have used my aker on it's own before when I was debugging some issues and no one noticed. On my system I've actually turned the clicks off as they got annoying, and not all troopers in the film have an noticeable and hard click.

But this is the crl for a *Rogue One TK* not a generic TK. If you don't see it on screen it shouldn't be in the crl that is the "canon thing"

Except for the sniper, knee which is minimal return edge is optional everywhere. Hot water bath. Basically bring water to a boil in a large pot, using protective gloves dip the item for roughly 30 seconds, remove, reshape and hold under cool water for roughly a minute or until cool. Repeat if necessary

I just realized spell check changed trooping to tripping. Guess I better watch where I walk my first troop maybe that’s an omen Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I found a strip I had ordered from Trooperbay as a “just in case”. When I got it you could notice the shade was a bit off. I’ve never used it and was all out of the AM strips from my kit. I could have put the small piece in and pasted it but then there would have been an obvious crack. I did cover inside and outside strips on everything. Had I known I would have saved some strips and used the Trooperbay stuff for the insides but it was too little too late. So I decided on a whole new strip as opposed to having the obvious crack. Anyway... Here is the difference in the shades under 4 60w LED daylight bulbs. It’s noticeable in the light but I think when I’m tripping it’s not gonna be as noticeable. Top one is AM original cover strip and bottom one is the Trooperbay strip. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Shin cover strip - NOTE: Some GMLs are strict enough to deny your basic approval with the cover strip being incorrectly installed. If you don't have enough, place a shorter section at the top, mix up a little ABS paste and fill the gap. Polish and go.

My boots from Imperial Boots came today! Very pleased with them. They fit like a glove. They also included a rad patch. Hoping to collect some more patches once I get approval!

Well I might be able to do that. Think I have enough left for 1 cover strip and I realize now I only have to replace the one so I’ll have to look into what I have left over. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Frank, sorry to be a pain but the cover strip goes all the way up

Arm go into shins, shins go into thighs. That's the biggest thing that lets me fit everything into a 25gal!

I'm sorry to hear about your troubles. I hope that you will get better and that you'll find (and get) the helmet you're looking for. From your signature below your post, I can tell you that the armor you have now looks very good!

Super! And, don't forget, approximately a pencil's width between the cheek and the stripes. Here's the man himself...

Thank you both! That is what I thought but wanted that extra peace of mind. Coorections should be completed by weeks end if all goes well

What Daniel said

Has anyone heard from him since his initial post here? kind of curious if this is a work in progress or he has dropped it? @Jasonm351 you still there buddy? You have quite a bit of work ahead of you, but like the others here have said you can do this. This forum is amazing and kicks butt with the amount of knowledge and support there is. You just need to work each piece at a time. I also am extremely curious about where you got your armor and if this is something you bought "Complete" or if you attempted it yourself? If this was purchased, knowing who you bought it from could help other potential Legion members avoid making the mistake of purchasing a knockoff or recast kit. I think your kit is fixable, but it will just take some time and coin. Please give us an update on whats going on with you and hope all is well. I just read in another topic that you got your armor in a week, so I hate to say it, but I am about 97% sure you didn't get an authentic Anovos kit...But come on man let us help you out. even though im not approved yet, im pulling for you. If you have half the drive I do right now for this, you have too much going to just let it go...we can do this man, that's why you came here!

Sorry for the extremely long delay. I don't remember the brand but it was off Amazon for about $20. I really like it but if you drink water or have a beard the voice box triggers. Other then that I like it a lot. Mine does have a wire, I know some come without (WIFI/Blue Tooth) but there may be a delay between receiver and transmitter depending on what you get. I hope this helps and good luck.

Good call

So my only concern here is if you trimmed it back far enough to remove the pull marks then it might not leave enough material rendering the bell too small. If you have a small enough body frame you might be able to get away with it.

Yeah I didn't fix mine they just worked out that way. But as Tony said do a hot water bath. It's not as bad as taking a hot iron to the kit to make a return edge.

Got the counter attached and the scope in place. I made some little metal contacts for the Counter. -Not sure if they are film accurate? All additional nuts, screws, and other "bits" now in place so ready for a coat of paint over the weekend. I made a basic stand with some aluminium rod and mirror perspex-except it lists to the side due the all the "extras" being located on one side but should be an easy fix.

on steel,,,, the alum is a diff story

Although I’m 39 can you be my dad? Jk this is awesome I’ve said it before but you keep outdoing yourself. I wish I had a fraction of the ability you have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just received my basic approval and 501st membership! TK 11485 reporting for duty! Now, I need to finish my blaster. I don’t think this is going to work.... Cheers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congratulation on the Kit! This was my first Blaster build. Good Idea with the screw solution for the folding stock. As an suggestion; you can add a little more detail to the Blaster master Kit when using most of the parts from the Kit T-Jay is offering. Just ask T-Jay to offer you a kit with the parts you need, than he can make you an offer. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/

moved this thread to the correct forum section

This past weekend I decided to boil my biceps to achieve a rounder base. It turned out really well. I built a jig after measuring the required bicep/forearm gaps. This made installing the two inch straps much easier. I just glued the straps with CA glue. The shoulder bells received their snaps and now the arms are finished. Next, I installed snaps for thigh garter system. Finally, I spent the remainder of the day trying things on and doing my final fitting. I used some helmet padding to line up my shins perfectly. Ukswrath’s helmet electronics installed. Rivets painted. Frown mesh installed. I THINK I am finished with everything! I will spend a little time cleaning and polishing and I should be ready to take submission photos. Finally!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Work is continuing to progress, but I have been slacking in posting photos. That being said, this might be s long reply! While other parts were setting up, I decided to glue straps on my “trooping” hand guards. Everything laid out and ready to bring strapping. I felt compelled to hide my white closure strip. What better way than son black CF wrap left over from my airplane build! Knee ammo pouch trimming and installation complete. Next up gluing my shoulder straps with e6000. Straps are dry, and now it’s time for shoulder elastic. I decided to use 4 snaps vs gluing to allow for future adjustments. Shoulder Bell and bicep snaps installed. I decided to recruit my wife to help with the sew on snaps for shoulder Bell attachment. This photo catches me up with actual progress. Cheers! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all, Well, the new mag is finished. In a nut shell; -finished sanding the top -corrected arrow (“OFF ->”) -prep for primer -metallic silver -hammer black on top/end plate only -Matt black top coat -cut down mag -shaved off some of mag to avoid modifying the mag well (allowing me to switch between mags, should I need to). -added magnets -weathered And, for now, that’s all she wrote. I think this blaster is finally finished. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s been a challenge because there really aren’t very many build threads but I’m doing the best I can and figuring it out as I go and I have a lot of help from my friends in my garrison. [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would it be possible to add images of the correct style of screws in the CRL? Not everyone is familiar with what a pan-head or V head screw looks like, or the difference between slotted and phillips head. This may avoid any confusion. Same with the single cap rivets. The clearer we make things the better. Pan head slotted screw Slotted flat head Single cap rivets ------- ---------------- I agree on this one. AM no longer supplies the V1 chest and back, so this would would avoid any "What version do I have?" questions.

Well, unfortunately that good head of steam we had going for those first two weeks took a little bit of a break as work and a busy birthday weekend for me put the build on a minor hold. But we got back into it this week and so far, so good. We decided to tackle the shins, after which we'll move onto the thighs. Looks like we'll be leaving the torso pieces for last, which is a good thing as I am getting way more comfortable with hacking into the armor for minor sizing adjustments, and by the time I finish with the legs, the torso adjustments shouldn't be as intimidating. Here's a few shots of the work on the shins. First we strapped them on with the boots to get an idea for where we might need to tweak the pieces (here's my son modeling his) After we each tried the shins on and walked around a bit, we realized we'd need to take a little off the bottoms so that they sit nicely on the boot and in the right spot around the knee, giving us a good range of movement. We might need to take a small piece off of the top back part, but we'll leave that determination for later once we've actually got the thighs done and we go into final fittings with the entire suit. Here's a shot of the amount we took off the bottom. Like I said, the first cut was nerve wracking, but once that was done, the fear was gone and onward we went. My brother's will likely need about twice as much, but after the experience with these four shins, I'm not worried about it. Seems I've become the designated ABS cutter... From there, it was time to cut some inner and outer cover strips and start assembly! One little thing I discovered as part of my research into assembling the AP shins - for the left side, it was best to leave a minor offset between the two halves at the top (see below). This helps a lot with the sniper knee plate placement as it eliminates some of the "tilting" when trying to line it all up. Will definitely need to also do some massaging via a hot water bath to that piece, but it should be much easier with the offset. I'll also likely place a shim at the top to help with placing the center part of the sniper plate. Kudos to supernaut11 for noting this helpful tip in his build thread (supernaut11's ANH stunt build thread [AP]) and my fellow Everglades squad member David (illusionz_09) for his post in the same build thread that pointed to a great shin build video! Gotta love the wealth of information out here!! So while those are curing, I'm off to work on the rear shin cover strips. Hopefully some more progress later in the week, but we'll be attending the Florida Supercon this weekend. While obviously not able to go in full TK armor just yet, we'll definitely be doing a little cosplay with a TK theme (pics to follow next week).

As to screws, fortunately for us, others have already done the legwork. The correct screw types are A and E, on this little chart: Here's the simplest way to handle the screw changes needed: 1) Take the flat slotted panhead screws out of your helmet, and paint the heads black. They're practically a perfect match for the screws that SHOULD be used on the TD. (There has been some speculation about that, actually) Use them instead of the asinine wood screws Anovos provided for the TD. DONE! (sort of like this, but slotted instead of Phillips, and with a flatter top like the first graphic showed): https://www.boltdepot.com/Machine_screws_Phillips_pan_head.aspx) 2) Then, go to a Home Depot (or other hardware source) and get some #6/32 slotted flat head screws (they only carry 1.5" and 2", at my local HD, so my plan is just to cut them to length, otherwise, if you find the right ones, just buy the same length as the ones you just removed) to replace the screws you just stole from the helmet. (Note: You may need to buy the matching #6 nuts as well if you don't have any already). Paint the heads white, like the old ones were. (like this: https://www.boltdepot.com/Machine_screws_Slotted_flat_head.aspx) DONE!

What is why I am working on them and intend to make accurate gloves, soon.