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Mine are vacuum formed into a cavity mould so the bubble never touches anything, keeping vision as clear as possible. Use them in your ANH hero, TIE and AT-AT helmets in one-piece or trim them and glue in separately in your ROTJ helmet.

Today were arrived the boots, I’ve order TK boots, becouse I have a big foot my number is 13us, I start to cut and glued the calf, the magnet for one glued are more than the other parts, and I have to proceded slowly, one by one left calf are the first Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

Hi. I have recently acquired my EIB and just got round to sorting my updated photos. I have made the changes adjustments asked for and am looking to get Centurion status in my own armour Name: Ross Walmsley 501st ID: TK5509 501st Profile: https://www.501st.com/forum/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=5659 FISD Forum Name: Ross8008 Garrison: UK Garrison EIB thread link.... Armour: RWA Helmet: RWA Blaster: Sheartech rubber Height: 5' 10" Weight: 12 stone 6 lb Boots: ISD Canvas Belt: RWA Hand Plates: ISD rubber Gloves: ISD Latex hand guards Neck Seal: RWA Holster: ISD Undersuit: Extreme 2 part Electronics: trAMP let me know if you require any more Photos, cheers Ross

Agreed, the up and doen fitment looks good and it doesnt seem to be stickimg too far out from your chest. I think you need to roll the sides in tighter around your sides. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

We’ll get you all squared away and approved in no time Karli! Just hang in there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, I plan to look at padding in the shins and thighs and yes ..... the chest..... it’s driving me nuts ..... it needs a lot of fettling ..... One thing though.... my armour has been on and off so much over the past couple of days I’m getting a dab hand at putting it on ..... so something positive has resulted from all of this Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh well the good news there is that the TLJTK and TLJTK Exec use the same helmet. so the frown is the same on both. Only diff is the executioner has hte matte black stripe and what appears to be matte black teeth. but the mesh is hte same as TFA and TLJ. hope that helps.

Looking better Stephen. Your chest seems to be the biggest offender now. You know it's sitting a little too far out and needs to be retained somehow. A hot water bath could also help its shape so it doesn't look so broad on you. A little padding in your shins and thighs will help lock those pieces in to place. You can also put soe Industrial Velcro on the front of your boots and inside your shin armour to keep them down and from turning. Keep it up!

Great to know what's to come. I especially want to see how you go about the power cylinders - there's allot of mod that can be done here. Yeah, I'm in the same boat. I'm having a great time getting at the details as you are. Like you and others know, so rewarding to see the end results.

Looking good Dan! Your inner bolt strip is looking great so far; I have again been inspired by your advanced work, based on my local time Nice innovative work on the clearing strip, you've now shown that indeed, it clears the bolt window like a real sterling

Looking great Nate!! Like they mentioned just sand down the forearm openings at the wrist but you’re always going to get some wear. I wound up getting Nomex gloves and for now using the ABS hand plates that came with our kit with those. Still have the rubber gloves with the rubber plates and I just switch between them depending on long troop (nomex) vs short troop (rubber). As for the submission pics you should be ok. The key is to show you actually have the rubber gloves and flexible hand plates. A little wear and tear just shows you actually use the armor

Some fantastic new images of the pack in the Star Wars Beyond The Armour book. Also brilliant to see some acknowledgement of all our hard work recreating it..This looks to be the same pack that was seen at CE with the longer antenna and the cable attached to the pack correctly.

Looking freaking mint mate! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks

Your build looks fantastic Daniel, the quality of your armour is amazing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just finished reading through your thread as I’m in the same boat (first time build and aiming for Centurion). Great work so far (especially the helmet!).

Congrats and welcome to EIB!

I’ve spent the majority of this afternoon trying the armour on, taking it off (well the torso) trimming the butt and trying it on again.... I’m not going to post pics as I still have more to do, but I’m just trimming it a bit at a time.... so I will probably be doing this all weekend..... ho humm .... I also removed the knee ammo and trimmed it down a tad, took 2mm if the top and bottom leaving the area above and below the bumps at 3mm Trimmed and sanded Close up of top and bottom Also trimmed the return edge on the inside of the thighs And these are the markings on where to trim the butt.... as I said I’m not there yet A little trim of the butt Anyway will carry on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Congrats!

Congrats & welcome to the Legion Trooper!!

Asa Congrats and welcome to the legion! Enjoy your troop. There really is nothing like it!

Congrats and welcome to the ranks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are they going to be both versions heels and flats? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

10. Thermal Detonator Canon reference pic. Trim excess plastic from caps and face plate. Face plate is approximately 115mm in length. Circumference width approximately 85mm. Cap width .78" or 20mm Cut 2" PVC pipe to 7-1/2" 10a. Measure .78" or 20mm from outer pipe edge. Reduce the OD (outer diameter) by sanding or other so that the end caps will slip on without much effort. Test before going to next step. Measure and find center of pipe. Add painter's tape to pipe, enough to cover the width of the entire face plate. Locate center of face plate and position it on the pipe and center it with the pipe. Using a pencil outline the face plate on the painter's tape. Remove outer section of tape that has been outlined. Scuff up the remaining uncovered pipe surface using 3m scotch brite pad or similar. Install painter's tape where end caps will be later installed. 10b. Paint assembly grey with approved color. Let dry. After drying remove tape. Center and glue faceplate to tube with E6000. Let glue dry. After drying. 10c. Making TD clips Using 1/16" x 1-1/16" aluminum band metal, cut two 9" sections. Using a pencil measure and mark strip in the following sections. 1/2", 2-1/2", 5" Round corners on one edge. Establish the center of the strip a drill a 11/32" hole at the 1/2 & 2-1/2" locations. Using a separate pipe made of thicker material drill two holes for separate screw that will be used for bending the straps or use self tapping screws. Mount 1/2" hole to pipe. Place opposite end of pipe in vice or clamp to a table or bench. Double checking to ensure strap in perpendicular to pipe, wrap strap around pipe 180 degrees from mount screw. Remove strap from pipe. Notice the section of strap on the 1/2" side is straight, you will need to bend this. Using a vise if possible place a piece of heavy cloth in the jaws. Install 1/4" section of strap, tighten and slightly bend a curve into the section. Note: a pair of pliers or channel lock wrench will work also but you'll need to take to evenly bend the area. Place the clips on the edge of a piece wood curved side up. Place the 5" marked section at edge. Placing one hand on the table side and the other on the exposed side begin to crease the metal. Place a 1/8" piece of round iron or similar in a vice or clamp to a table. Continue to fold the edge around until it is parallel with the curved but flat section. Note: it's not a great idea to use a screw driver as I did but it served a purpose. Using a file taped with duct tape place the file in between the bent sections near the end. Clamp section nearest to clip bend. After bend your clips should look like this.