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This is what I have done on all of mine. I did a test fitting of my recent snaps and nylon strapping and I noticed that this helps me out a LOT more than the elastic did. I'll be updating my thread soon so it might help!

Steve, how far are the elastics apart where they join the armour? If you keep these short (ideally at the split rivets) it should stop most of the slop you're getting. The longer the elastic run the more room it has to move.

Hey Robert, these guys pretty much nailed it. I have 2 kits from them, a TK and a shadow trooper. They both look great. It is thin and I have a few crack, but once reinforced there have been no issues. I like the kit and the sculpt. You shouldn't have a problem with the kit at all and it is very easy to take it to centurion. All that being said, their customer service is complete garbage. They send me the wrong item and it was pulling teeth to get it corrected. While they make good stuff I was turned off by their "service".

It looks like you have Anovos armour. Check out this build thread by ukswrath. His Excellency will show you how to build the armour in great detail. Here it is: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/

First we have to reach the 10 000 complaints, only then will tapatalk achievement be unlocked. We're not even halfway now, so you guys will have to write some more posts using the mobile-friendly skin to complain, only then can we get it. But we can do it if we work together!!

Final photos Okay its seems like this build has been going on for ever, but I think now it is finally at an end. I want to thank everyone for their comments and help along the way, with special mention to Tino (T-Jay), Arron (usaeatt2), Brian (Bulldog44), Chris (themaninthesuitcase), Dennis (Tr00per), Chris (Thrawn's guard). All of you guys have great build thread which really helped me out in a big way. So what would I do differently: I would do the scope rail fitting before painting - I bought one pre- made from toshie traders. I do like it, but I had to cut it up a bit and fill some holes to get it the way I wanted. The scope and hengsler were mounted too far forward and the front was too high. Will definitely do the crinkle paint on the next one – hopefully a pipe build Probably wouldn’t use a metallic paint on the undercoats, they seem to come off quite easily when weathering. I will probably do a bit more weathering as time goes by, adding rust etc. So anyway here are a few shots and more at this gallery. http://imgur.com/gallery/eDin7 Anyway thanks everyone for reading and now onto my ATA build..

that is correct. The actual base gun used for the real R1 blasters was the sterling from Evike. They also took DoopyDoo's scope and added it LOl. Everything on it seems to be a found part. we took the Evike (and other found parts) and molded them to replicate the R1 version of the E-11 and cast them in Rubber. Turned out pretty awesome I think LOL---------

I've made some shorter ones that are literally JUST long enough so they should pull it in close. The gap as it stands is just over the required amount so no gap is the way to go rather that faff about with shims etc. Onwards and upwards. Or inwards as the case may be......

Hey Ross thank you for your patience and EIB application. Let's get you approved. CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All the required submission photos have been posted. Beautiful job on your build. Your armor meets all EIB requirements. Andrew and myself would like to welcome you to Expert Infantry Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: In this section we review observations made by your fellow troopers and ourselves. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. If any suggestion affects any application, it will be listed separately in the above or below sections. We have a couple minor areas to touch on here, starting at the helmet. Though not a huge deal we're suggesting you either release the air bubble under the right tear decal or maybe replace it all together, giving the area a cleaner look. Though not bad keep an eye on the Ab to Kidney gap it should be under 1/2 for EIB and 0 for Centurion. Reference photos Thank you for providing the cloth belt measurements as requested. Upon further review the ammo belt itself appears too wide. We're suggesting you remove all but roughly 1/8" of the upper and lower return edge just outside of the ammo boxes. Take a look at the reference photo, there should be minimal material in this area. Reference photo While in the area we notice the drop boxes look a bit too wide. It may be a photo think but they shouldn't be more than 15mm wide, maybe you can double check this when you get a moment. Another minor issue is the TD screws should be flat head type. Though this won't affect any levels of approval we're recommending you replace them with the correct screws when convenient. Reference photo Centurion Suggestions: In this section we prepare you for Centurion. If there were any areas of concern they would be discussed here. The only area of concern is the drop box alignment. The CRL states: For level three certification (if applicable): Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. This is an easy fix, if you glue the drop box straps to the waist cloth belt you shouldn't have any more issues with alignment. Reference photo Welcome again to EIB and fantastic job on your build . Hope to see you at Centurion.

Maybe the elastic should be replaced with nylon webbing, less give.

Thank you Tino. I have viewed your build threads so many times in preparation for my build, so your reply here is tremendously motivating. Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge with the community.

Well I'll pay attention more Jen I'll just get some popcorn and watch for awhile. If the armor comes out like that helmet you'll be Centurion for sure!

Hey Ted! Nice meeting you here as well. From what I've seen on your FB page and the photo you posted above, your blaster looks pretty awesome already! I will share my process in more details in the upcoming posts.

Thank you for your kind words Jesse. Indeed the remarkable craftsmanship on these parts deserve to be shown in their best light and I hope my build do justice to them. I look forward to seeing your armor and blaster come together!

Congrats

Have no fear Robert! I've had my Anovos kit for over a year and I've had no problems at all with it, and I've taken it to Centurion level. There are also numerous other TK's in my squad with the armor that are happy with it as well. I also received the same bit of 'attitude' when I initially told people where I purchased my armor from, which happens more than it should unfortunately. I think you'll see troopers tend to prefer the armor they own, which makes sense. Another factor (and this is just my opinion) is that when this armor first came out, it was quite a bit cheaper than other makers and obviously that would annoy folks who paid more. It also opened the door to a lot more TK's joining the ranks. The vast majority of troopers are happy about this, but you'll always find a few that don't feel the same way. Anyway, don't worry about anyone giving you a hard time and good luck with your build!

Don't worry too much, Robert. There are hundreds of 501st approved Anovos kits out there that have held up just fine. As mentioned, there have been a few instances of cracks and such, but well placed "shims" (reinforcements) can prevent those, allowing you to troop to your heart's delight. One of my sets is an Anovos, and although I really don't use it that much, I have had no problems. Like anything, a lot depends on how well you build and take care of it. Hopefully you will be aiming for Centurion level, which many with that kit have reached. If you haven't already done so, I suggest checking out Tony's (ukswrath) ANH Anovos build. Tons of information and hundreds of detailed photos. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/ Here is another thread that may help you get started: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/ If we can be of any help, just let us know!

Almost forgot, as I mentioned last week, we were going to attend Florida Supercon this year. While we would have loved to have our builds done and approved for the event, we've still got a bit to go, but we still made sure to have some fun with a TK theme. Presenting the Hollywood Troopers - Dr. Who Trooper, Negan Trooper and Braveheart Trooper! Needless to say, we were able to break in our TK boots, as well as work out some kinks with our bucket fitting, so it was a worthwhile effort. We had a blast walking around and got stopped for pictures more times than we could count. And we of course had to stop by our Squad's booth to say hello and pose for a few pictures.

Just a heads up Mike... TG is still producing armor...currently in the middle of a run that he is hoping to have ready by the end of August. Last time I talked to him about a month ago he said there are still kits available for purchase.

Being tidy and organized makes the whole job move smoothly. You're doing excellent work!

The images to the tutorial can't be seen!!!! Albert Sanchez F1SD: virimpact Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A good set of brushes will go far... I used to paint led miniatures, for Dungeons and Dragons, if anyone remembers those. Lots of fine details, including eyes. Yes, I have a steady hand... All painting, no matter what kind, money on brushes is worth it!

They are apparent on the Hero costume. There's a screen still of Han Solo where it is very clear. Just like how a lot of people do snaps instead of the traditional strapping method, do what works for you the best.

Update #17 - the assembly (90% complete) The end is near. Everything is painted. Weathering and washing will be completed stepwise. Now time has come to start assembling! It must have been that feeling, Steve recently described in his build. Wow, I've waited for that moment so long - and some of you as well . So, here are the pictures: Some full views so far (every 2nd picture with flashlight). Will try to get you some daylight photos this weekend .

@ Germain (The5thHorseman): sanded down the plastic piece a bit more . It has now the same depth as the resin part in the ejection port. Here is a better picture:

Hello again to update #05 It starts with the rear end of the "bolt". The only thing I found to make this, was a massive piece of hard plastic (t=10mm). The sides got paper-sanded conical and the top got rounded a little bit. That day I wished to have a belt sander... One end is curved to cuddle up to the charging handle. Next was the diagonal strip on the ejection port. I sanded down the incorrect resin with Dremel and paper. @ Germain (The5thHorseman): the issue with the round base of the charging lever will later be fixed when it comes to painting these parts. Before continuing there, my two-layered bolt got improved a bit by changing the inner plastic tube. The new one goes all the way through to the muzzle and therefore has the bigger diameter on both ends. Re-drilled the hole for the charging lever and one for the scope rail. When it is later painted, it will be visible through some of the side holes. When looking through a few reference pictures (again ), I realized the original bolt doesn't end at the point, where the spring pushes against it. There is an outstanding part in cylindrical shape (but with smaller diameter) to securely hold the spring. The inner diameter of my self-made spring was a bit more than 15mm, so I was lucky to find a green board-marker pen with an outer diameter of 15mm. It fitted very well and had a nice looking shape at the end. The colour coating got sanded down and revealed the aluminium body. As I did not want to start a mess by cutting the marker in half and having the liquid colour pollute everything, I simply decided to insert it completely into the bolt . Only one hole for the charging handle had to be added - but no colour oozed out of it. Was happy with the result but my only concern now is: will this E-11 shoot green lasers instead of red ones??? Thank you for reading. Next update will (hopefully) follow shortly.

Okay, time for update #04 As earlier mentioned, the Hengstler counter still needed some actions. The electrical connectors got removed by pulling them out of the rear side from this black socket. Tried turning and drilling there at first but the solution was to simply push them back through the socket - with a careful hammer knock Then a hole for the reset button was made in the counter housing, by using Simon's measurement diagram from his great build thread (thanks again Simon ). A 2mm plastic piece was sufficient to make the actual reset button from it. Unfortunately I did not find a way to make it movable with a little spring so far, but it looks quite real when the cover is installed. After this I trimmed these little shields / guards on the side because they are much thinner on the original guns. The Dremel was ideal for this. You can see the difference in the comparison shot. The snug fit to the gun's body was achieved by rubbing them over sandpaper, which was wrapped around it. After doing the same with the bigger shield, I heated up the ends to bend them to the exact curve radius of the ejection port. Start liking this resin material... As I had one quarter left over in the last picture, I've inserted a photo from a strange big brown box which had arrived here some weeks ago. The sender is somebody called "Paul" in the UK. Don't know if you ever heard of him... Comments and critics are welcome. Have a nice weekend.

Hi all Thanks Ian for your kind words. Every encouragement is really appreciated at the moment. Although I am working on this blaster every day after work, the progress is currently low - due to being busy with some corrections. Especially the magazine issue keeps me in trouble. That's a bit frustrating. But the worst part to me (painting and weathering) still needs to get done . Anyway, here are a few infos of what I did the last days: Have fixed all issues in the folding stock with "green stuff" and replaced the wooden bar with a new one made from aluminum and painted it black. Hey, the first part got painted - oh my god... The clip (or lock) on the rear end has been trimmed to look more like it's made out of two separate parts. Also the white "ring" got replaced with a more accurate one and the end cap had to be adapted to this. Next problems came with the bolt and charging handle. The inner diameter of the kit is a bit lower than 22mm. For quite a while I thought of making the resin walls thinner at the gun's rear end (because you'll later be able to identify the DoopyDoo's kit with a single view on this section) but as already mentioned, my options are limited and I wasn't sure if this could make the blaster unstable. So I searched for an accurately fitting tube - with no luck. Then two pieces of a plastic tube (for electrical installations) were used. One got cut in the long way to fit over the second one, resulting in a diameter of a bit more than 21mm. In case this won't be enough, the inner tube can still be wrapped with a few layers of insulation tape. Drilled a screw into the charging handle, then cut off the head and placed it into a hole in the "bolt" to run a first test fit. Looks okay. The spring caused some unexpected problems. It took two metal clothes hangers (thanks to E.S.) but the result was not satisfactory . The metal wire was 2mm, so I bought a few meters of 1,8mm wire, which was easier to handle - and as far as I know it's the correct size from the original gun. Finally found something with the required diameter, to wrap this wire around and tada: it fitted well into the resin body. On the reference photos I have, there is always a total of 11 visible convolutions on the installed spring. Please let me know if you have different information. Alright folks, it's 4 o'clock in the morning. Need some sleep before continuing the build...

Hi again Now that the scope is done, it requires a scope rail. This has been made out of an aluminum stripe (2x20mm) and with some help of Billhag's brilliant graphics. And yes, it was cut in on the underside, before it got bent to 90 degrees. Billy, if you ever read this: thanks a lot for having spent your time into these meaningful pictures! This had to be said Does anybody know, if there has to be a countersunk screw at the rear sight, or not? Just liked the smooth optic of it, but would replace it to stay correct. Sorry guys, but at this stage I could not resist to pre-mount all the major parts (no glue, only screwed) just to get an idea, how the whole thing looks and feels... Some of you have surely noticed the missing magazine clip. Yeah, I am still working on the corrections of the size. Grrr. Will show this in a later update... Another important missing thing is the Hengstler 400 counter. Although there is a resin version included in the kit, I liked the idea of having a real one - for the details, you know . Got a simple and fully operational battle station - huh, what was that? Sorry, of course I meant fully operational counter - arranged by some good friends (thanks to S.B. & M. & S.W.) Yes, it is not perfect for a few hardcore prop fans out there , but I didn't want to spend a little fortune only to have an eagle-logo, a reset button and all six digits in black. This one is fine enough for me The front connectors will get removed later and a fake reset button will be added too. Here are the pictures. Then I tried to mount it in a way, so that it could later still be removed out of the bracket holder. Don't know why I liked this idea, but it somehow didn't work to realize it (with the limited options I have). So I chose the simple way and just drilled through the bracket holder into the counter itself. It works fine - even with only one screw and it is stable too. It can later be glued as well. In own matters: I am trying to keep this thread compact to avoid boring you here. Therefore some sections got skipped (for example: time consuming trimming of every single resin part after unpacking) and all pictures are selected and combined 4 in 1 before being uploaded. If you prefer higher resolutions (or just don't want me to combine the pictures) or want more photos of all the steps in between, then just let me know Alright folks, that's it for now. Any comments, ideas or critics are really appreciated! Next update will hopefully come just in time for the weekend.

Hi all, thank you very much for your friendly replies so far! Happy to have some experts following this build. Especially the critics are very welcome, because this helps to improve some parts while still building the blaster. Good to see there are a lot of detail-lovers out there @ Germain (The5thHorseman): Thanks for pointing out the mistake with the folding stock. You are absolutely right. Will see if I can solve this issue and keep you updated. @ Daniel (Darth Chridan): Thanks for the good comparison shots. I already wondered why there is so much space between the mag and the port. Now I have to think about a quick solution... @ Vern (TK Bondservnt 2392): Haven't thought I would say this, but after Daniel posted his photos, I am now thinking of replacing my magazine . Will think about your offer... Okay, back to topic Today's update is about the scope. Most of the resin scopes can be identified via the scope decals. Although these are interesting, I wanted to stay as close to the look of the original as possible and decided to go for real lenses. The one for the front has been taken from a compass. To give the view more depth, the hole got drilled deep into the scope. And the 5 resin screws got replaced with real ones - 2 metal and 3 plastic (but they will be fine for painting). Unfortunately I made some scratches in the lens. Hopefully I can get these polished... For the rear end I couldn't find a fitting lens, so I went to my eyewear optician and he made me a convex lens exactly in size . Like on the front, the hole got drilled with some monster drills (again thanks to W.A.) by using different diameters when going deeper. This reduced the weight only a little bit. But it will hopefully give the scope a real look when it's being painted on the inside with black and brass. Thanks to M.F. for the nice digital precision tool and of course to my roommate TK-0000 for holding the lens to the scope, although being tired from his shift at the detention block, where they had some trouble today with a few guys... Thank you for reading. Next steps will be uploaded around Wednesday. Have a nice weekend all