Bill.I.Am Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 I just finished off my first Hasbro E11 fitted with the Doopy Doo's kit. Some of the extra steps I took to help get rid of the toy look was to fill in all the screw holes, opened up the front sight and the sight rail at the back. I also filled and sanded down the seam where the sides met. The sight was given the most attention by removing the front and back plastic pieces, filling in the front and putting in an offset lens housing salvaged some screws from some old r/c cars. The back of the sight was given an outer ring, clear plastic lens with a printed sighting graphic on the inside of it. The trigger was trimmed, D ring was added, scratch built "t" track and wires from the counter added as well. Once everything was assembled I primed it then gave it a couple of coats of silver paint then finished it off with 3 coats of semi gloss black. All paints used are by Tamiya that went on very smoothly and were allowed to dry thoroughly between coats. Feel free to ask for any tips or tricks I used with this build. Hope you like it and it meet 501st standards. Now I needs me some armor! <_< Basic ugly hasbro E11 with all the Doopy parts ready for priming. Primed Black paint All assembled and slightly weathered. Final product with the completed sight and counter wires added. My new E11 with my MRCE lid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white zombie Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 Looks great, definately went the extra mile with the detailed mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK-7980 Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 makes me want to redo my Hasbro. nice job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shooter Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 Looking good Bill! Are you planning on weathering? What did you use for the scope lens? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pandatrooper[TK] Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 Nice work! I see you Dremeled out the front sight and have the correct T rack (7 racks for the drilled holes option) for EIB even! One you get your armor, looks like you'll be ready for duty trooper! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill.I.Am Posted January 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 Looking good Bill! Are you planning on weathering? What did you use for the scope lens? Thanks! I used clear plastic for the lense with printed out sights glued behind it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK5144[TK] Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 scratch built "t" track Care to show how you made the scratch built T Track? yours looks nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james007bond[TK] Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 Splendid is the word I will use to describe this.... This is again one of the better Hasbro DoopyDoos mods i've seen todate.... Love the scope..... that is a excellent modifcation... And yes, this makes we wanna redo my Hasbro E-11.... One critical comment..... Stick some more weathering on it man.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill.I.Am Posted January 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 Care to show how you made the scratch built T Track? yours looks nice! Thanks! The t tracks are easy to make. You just need a plastic "I" beam that measures 15mm tall and 6mm wide. Cut it to the length of the of the holes on the gun body then then score it down the center with a straight edge that will not easily bend then snap it in half giving you the 2 "T" track peices you need. I stenciled cutting lines using the ones on the gun then cut and filed them to shape to match, I also used 1/8 inch diameter plastic tube at the ends to connect the tips of the tracks to the red plastic lining inside the body behind the holes. Using plastic cement I then glued them in place. Took me about 2 hours, cost me 4 dollars and have enough left over to do another pair. You can find the plastic "I" beam in a hobby shop or model train store. The company name that makes them is called "Plastruct". Another thing I forgot to mention was that when I was fitting the folding stock it was too long to properly fit because of the locating notch on the left side of it that made room for the screw holding the bottom of the gun together. Since I was gluing the body together and did not want to cut anything away from the resin stock I cut that plastic screw piece off and glued it to the resin stock instead then glued the stock to the gun. This gives it the appearance that the notch still served a purpose and the plastic screw piece filled the notch. Hope this helps. I will post some close ups tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiDri Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 Thanks! The t tracks are easy to make. You just need a plastic "I" beam that measures 15mm tall and 6mm wide. Cut it to the length of the of the holes on the gun body then then score it down the center with a straight edge that will not easily bend then snap it in half giving you the 2 "T" track peices you need. I stenciled cutting lines using the ones on the gun then cut and filed them to shape to match, I also used 1/8 inch diameter plastic tube at the ends to connect the tips of the tracks to the red plastic lining inside the body behind the holes. Using plastic cement I then glued them in place. Took me about 2 hours, cost me 4 dollars and have enough left over to do another pair. You can find the plastic "I" beam in a hobby shop or model train store. The company name that makes them is called "Plastruct". Another thing I forgot to mention was that when I was fitting the folding stock it was too long to properly fit because of the locating notch on the left side of it that made room for the screw holding the bottom of the gun together. Since I was gluing the body together and did not want to cut anything away from the resin stock I cut that plastic screw piece off and glued it to the resin stock instead then glued the stock to the gun. This gives it the appearance that the notch still served a purpose and the plastic screw piece filled the notch. Hope this helps. I will post some close ups tomorrow. sweet! last part of my blaster i needed, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogueTrooper[TK] Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 Great job on moding the Hasbro!!! Looks awesome Bill!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matrix Master[TK] Posted April 4, 2010 Report Share Posted April 4, 2010 That is a great mod for a hasbro. Was wondering if it qualifies for EIB? Hope to do one like that soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueboxer[501st] Posted April 5, 2010 Report Share Posted April 5, 2010 Man, that looks great... very nice job!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluehickey Posted April 5, 2010 Report Share Posted April 5, 2010 Wow! I especially love the graphics you in the sight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill.I.Am Posted April 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Femtrooper Julie[501st] Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 I am FAR from accurate, but I am modding my blaster too. Yours is AMAZING! Great work, and great guide! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chunk[501st] Posted April 8, 2010 Report Share Posted April 8, 2010 Seeing all the cool mods gives me ideas to mod the 6 Hasbro's I have in the garage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill.I.Am Posted May 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2010 Here are the images that could be used for the scope. Origionals that you can play with in Photoshop The one I used. You should be able to just print it, and trim it. Enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trooper7753 Posted May 5, 2010 Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 Great looking conversion. What did you use for the ejection area? did you paint it or apply something else to give it that silver metal look. I have just finished a conversion myself and was stuck on what to do for that area. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill.I.Am Posted May 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2010 Thanks. I made a template to fit the nook of the port. I then took a piece of foil, scuffed it up with fine sandpaper sanding only in the direction of "travel" as if there really was a breach in there and cut it to the shape of the template and guled it in. You can also use a product called 'Bare Metal Foil" that can be found in some hobbyshops. It is used to create chrome on model cars instead of painting and it really could the job better. Just peel, stick and trim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjliver Posted September 18, 2010 Report Share Posted September 18, 2010 What did you do to mod the scope? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill.I.Am Posted September 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 Quite a bit but the pictures should say it all. I basically cut off the end peice that you would look into and add the lense on the inside with the graphic decal, then added behind the clear plastic. On the front cut it back and closed it off with styrene and glued a 1/2 inch brass tube the closed it off the same way I did the other end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jorran Posted September 19, 2010 Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 Really nice work! I had one question about this line: The back of the sight was given an outer ring... Where did you get that outer ring? I had just filled in the hole of the existing back that comes with the toy, but I think adding the sight decal to that wouldn't look very good and would like to use that same type of ring you used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill.I.Am Posted September 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 I added 2 rings to the back of the sight really. One outside and one on the inside. The outside ring I just cut some styrene plastic strip to the width that looked and the proper length to fit all the way around and glued it with plastic cement. The inner ring is also thin styrene but is ridged that gives it a nice little bit of extra detail and used the same process as above. I first put in a backing peice with the decal to then the clear styrene. After that I did the inner ring. Plastruct products are what I used for the plastic and can be found in most hobby shops or stores that have model trains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjliver Posted September 20, 2010 Report Share Posted September 20, 2010 Where can I get styrene? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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