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21 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

Have I ever mentioned I'm totally envious you having an arcade as a workshop? :laugh1:

Lol, I should crank all the lights off and light up the blacklights.  Take a few shots of the Trooper.  :D

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Many don't heat the armor before drilling, if you go slow and not too much pressure you should be fine drilling the holes, having a support piece of plastic glued behind can help stop cracking.  

Yup, me again. See?  You can do it too  

You don't have to use metal brackets although they are screen accurate, you can actually use snaps and elastic all around.   If you do use them the bracket screws can split the plastic

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2" Elastic Material used to adhere and secure the biceps to the forearms. Will be fully cured by 3:30pm tomorrow. I'll have to try these on. I'm thinking I may yet need to secure the biceps to the shoulder bells. Ready for the pinchees yet hope it doesn't happen.

 

tLKdVcY.jpg

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Have I ever mentioned I'm totally envious you having an arcade as a workshop? :laugh1:

Same. Very. This guy is my idol.


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50 minutes ago, Zinfer said:

Lol, I should crank all the lights off and light up the blacklights.  Take a few shots of the Trooper.  :D

 

You should. TRON meets Star Wars :laugh1:

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Can’t get the belt snapped as the snaps are in between the hollow parts.


You should be able to get your finger in behind the plastic belt, and in front of the canvas belt in order to push the snaps and pop it on to the ab poppers. When you say “In between the hollow parts” do you mean red or blue here:

d600a8a29239c9762346f6d20584ce0f.jpg



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3 minutes ago, Short4ATrooper said:

 


You should be able to get your finger in behind the plastic belt, and in front of the canvas belt in order to push the snaps and pop it on to the ab poppers. When you say “In between the hollow parts” do you mean red or blue here:

d600a8a29239c9762346f6d20584ce0f.jpg



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I meant the Red.  I'll take a second look from the inside.  Ok man you convinced me.  I'll hit the blacklights and some 80's tunes and run you guys back to the Trooper build  :D

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Ho-lee sh*t. That’s one of the coolest things I’ve ever seen! What a place to build in!

It’s also a really nice change to have someone post video in their WIP. Sadly, I’m in U.K. but I think I would travel to Ohio just to check out that arcade! Great video Rodney, thanks for sharing it.


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Awesome share Rodney, that is so cool.


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21 hours ago, Short4ATrooper said:

 


You should be able to get your finger in behind the plastic belt, and in front of the canvas belt in order to push the snaps and pop it on to the ab poppers. When you say “In between the hollow parts” do you mean red or blue here:

d600a8a29239c9762346f6d20584ce0f.jpg



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Ok, I've tried this again twice.  The snaps on the belt don't seem to be adequate to firmly snap and stay in place on the torso.  Neither one.  I'd talk to RS about this but they have bigger problems going on atm.  The snaps won't stay.

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I am finding more problems as I finish the armor.  Arms are done.  They fit well.  However if they go below the shoulder bells I can no longer bend my elbows.  The shoulder bells tend to cup inward at the bottoms, which means that when the bicep slides out, they won't return back under.  I may in fact need to make those hooks I've seen to keep them under the bells.  Or do the webbing on the bells to snap the biceps in.  Only thing I can think to make the bells not cup inward would be a Hot bath with tension outward, I've never done that before though with plastics.

 

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2 hours ago, tat2trooper said:

Maybe just a strapping issue. I noticed that with mine also. Try doing double snaps from bicep to shoulder bell. Should make it stay put.

Right now I don't have any straps going on from bicep to shoulder bell.  So, either a strap or do the inner/underarm hook.  Not sure which is more effective.

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I am finding more problems as I finish the armor.  Arms are done.  They fit well.  However if they go below the shoulder bells I can no longer bend my elbows.  The shoulder bells tend to cup inward at the bottoms, which means that when the bicep slides out, they won't return back under.  I may in fact need to make those hooks I've seen to keep them under the bells.  Or do the webbing on the bells to snap the biceps in.  Only thing I can think to make the bells not cup inward would be a Hot bath with tension outward, I've never done that before though with plastics.
 

Hi Rodney,

Do you have any photos?

The black elastic on the bells does indeed “cup” them inwards. This is correct. I would certainly consider adding some elastic inside the bell to the bicep. Here’s how I did mine:


The bicep hooks were not very common on stunt stormtroopers. Han had them but they were not commonly seen elsewhere. Personally, that’s why I prefer to have some discrete internal strapping. :-)
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I see.   I don't have any photos right off hand.  I may take a look for any return edges at the bottom of the bells.  I hope I didn't make my elastic on the bells too  short as to draw them in too far.  But more importantly, we are talking black elastic and not webbing between the outer bell and bicep right?  I can see where the placement could be very crucial.  Not being too high or low.  I'll give that a go today.

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First attempt linking the right bicep with the right shoulder bell. Going to let this cure 24 hours before test fit. Having a problem with the fit if the bicep pops in or out of the shoulder bell. It'll push the shoulder bell up. I could easily get this positioning wrong.

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Before this action, I did go over both the bottom of the shoulder bell and top of the bicep and shaved a bit more return edge off.  Trying to help them slide a bit better.

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Trial fit today. Nice, although I think I lost some range of motion up to snap the shoulder straps. Was happy with the fit and look. Performed the same action with the left, trying to match the positioning of the right. Another 24 hours cure time.

taanp7H.jpg

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Right Thigh Ammo Belt secured with two single cap rivets and E6000 at 3 joints to keep it in place. 6" welding C clamp vice grips used to secure the rivets. Awaiting 24 hour cure of the E6000. Not sure the accuracy here as the ammo belt seems to have an ever so slight upward curvature. Not sure if that's canon or not.

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2 hours ago, Short4ATrooper said:

As far as I know, it is indeed supposed to angle up as you have it. It looks pretty much perfect to me! (Just don’t forget to paint those rivets white emoji6.png) excellent work mate emoji1303.png


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Thanks guys. 

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Ok, so now for the finale of the build. I mean granted there's alot to go back to and get fitting well. ALOT. However for the final build and the most problematic atm the SHINS. Tonight I have what I feel is a pretty good fit on the Right. However if I walk, I get shredded in the back of my calf. So, is it commonplace to take these return edges down to nothing, especially in the back? It fits well, but that rear edge really has some sharp edges. I tried the method of affixing a couple of sacrificial velcro ribbons top and bottom for a rough fit. The lines seem to be good, perhaps less of a cut on the right outer shinpiece. A little at a time. Am I going about this correctly? Does the return edge towards the rear get removed?

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9 hours ago, Zinfer said:

Ok, so now for the finale of the build. I mean granted there's alot to go back to and get fitting well. ALOT. However for the final build and the most problematic atm the SHINS. Tonight I have what I feel is a pretty good fit on the Right. However if I walk, I get shredded in the back of my calf. So, is it commonplace to take these return edges down to nothing, especially in the back? It fits well, but that rear edge really has some sharp edges. I tried the method of affixing a couple of sacrificial velcro ribbons top and bottom for a rough fit. The lines seem to be good, perhaps less of a cut on the right outer shinpiece. A little at a time. Am I going about this correctly? Does the return edge towards the rear get removed?

 

 

Except for the sniper knee, return edges are not required. Return edge gives the armor the illusion of thickness that's all, remove as necessary. Also, if it comes done to it you can even cut out the back as seen here in this reference photo.

 

gallery_14191_22_57630_1.jpg

 

Regarding the back (opening), I would only remove the flare in the plastic and leave the rest. The muscles in that portion of your leg tend to flex the most so trust me when I say you'll want room to move around in. You can always add fabric foam to stabilize the interior if needed. 

 

 

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