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rtfitzpa

Troopermaster (TM) ANH Stunt build

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Hi all!

 

I’ve built a WTF Snowtrooper and a 2016-ish Anovos ANH TK (I found the plastic to be very thin), so for build #3, I’m putting together this Troopermaster kit I bought more than a year ago, capped in 2mm gloss finish (much sturdier!).

 

I am aiming for Centurion accuracy on this build.

 

For some additional context, I plan to 'retire' my Anovos kit, while utilizing some of the parts, such as gloves (which I got as a combo from Trooperbay) and boots (Imperial boots). TM's kit looks to come with just about all of the strapping and rivets needed.

 

As side notes, I also have a build thread started for Jim’s fiberglass (V.5?) First Order TK (which I hope to resume work on after this build, since I’ve had it for almost a year and half with virtually no work on it) and a WTF Scout Trooper on the way.

 

For reference, I’m about 5’6” and 150 lbs., so I know I’ll need to do some heavy trimming on this TK.l, given my experience with my Anovos build.

 

I’ll try to share as much of the build as possible to assist fellow Imperial troops.

 

For the Empire!

 

29a1373e27e28e081e85bb8cb7a0197d.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Edited by rtfitzpa
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Hi, welcome to FISD. Good luck with your project and looking forward for your advances. Post tons of photos ask questions. Measure twice, cut and glue once. 

 

 

Cheers. :salute:

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Welcome aboard, look forward to your build thread.

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Looking forward to seeing the progress, the second time around goes much quicker ;) 

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Here are some closer photos of the helmet, which I’ll be starting with. Also a big thanks to TM for the detailed strapping labeling!

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by rtfitzpa

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Also - I snagged some NEAT foam helmet liners from WS Custom Helmet Liners. I bought a second one for the Scout that I’ll be working on at some point. I found them through their Facebook shop... Very high quality and so practical.

 

I've tried hardhat liners and chin straps in the past, but my head can't turn much anyways because I don't have a long neck (the helmets haven't been able to clear the should bells very well). And since I'm not tumbling around during photo ops, I'm content to just let it rest in place with enough padding on the top of the helmet.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by rtfitzpa
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Helmet marked for trimming - I used a dry erase marker.

Spent a good deal of time on the eyes tonight, using a combination of sandpaper and exacto-knife.

I’ll probably try the ears next... a tad intimidated about not cutting too much off of them.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Wondering if anyone has any ear-trimming advice? I’ve made some basic cuts, but I’m afraid to work too quickly!

 

It’s my understanding that they should be angled slightly downward to the front of the helmet? This ATA video shows a neat way to achieve that.

 

 

 

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 aqL1Zj9.jpg?2  oYDEzWK.jpg?1  wAMSyBP.jpg?2

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Hi there, Trooper,

I did a whole video series on building a TM helmet, if it helps. This covers basic trimming, ears, construction and painting.



Here’s how it turned out.

522aeea3b1404218d39e70e7368a6100.plist


7c041b4073b623d5b6778cbf31c92a05.plist

a321a22ccac3313771cf881070ed4446.jpg
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9 hours ago, CableGuy said:

Hi there, Trooper,

I did a whole video series on building a TM helmet, if it helps. This covers basic trimming, ears, construction and painting.
 

 


Here’s how it turned out.

522aeea3b1404218d39e70e7368a6100.plist


7c041b4073b623d5b6778cbf31c92a05.plist

a321a22ccac3313771cf881070ed4446.jpg

 

Excellent!! thanks - that's very well done. I deeply appreciate your help and work documenting that process!

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So potentially a small snag in the build...

There seems to be quite a large gap between the faceplate and the dome, where the ears would cover. In attempting to rivet the bottom (with some slight tug to try to close the gap), the plastic has torn on me twice. I feel I am losing space to connect the rivet

The side by side is the Anovos helmet which was approved at Centurion a few years back.

Thoughts?

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You will find that the ears should cover that opening. What I try to do is add some screws higher up so you aren't tearing the bottom sections. I don't like using rivets as you are stuck once you add them in, or you are very careful drilling them out.

 

Appears your brow height is very high, if you dropped this a little it would help the sides, I've dropped it in the following image which will help the inset curves meet each other, you can also add a screw lower which will help pull the ears in. Just make sure where ever you add more screws/bolts that you check your ears will cover ;) 

 

30125012_imageproxy(1).jpg.80eab0872bd84ad77791299ef3f4cf75.jpg  UG3rXNU.jpg&key=81bc59afcc4edc8f945e7ec9 

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Hi trooper,

The gaps at the moment are caused by the alignment of the faceplate. You’ll want to carefully remove the rivets and experiment with magnets first to get it aligned correctly.


Notice below on an original helmet how the yellow line flows from back to faceplate.

99a0fc78b655f9bfc5cbb4825bc77da3.plist

At the moment, yours is very offset.

fd8b8e232cf0303a66d957840ce3c4dc.jpg

This is the primary cause of the gaps.

Do you have photos from around 6 feet back (always the best distance to take photos from) from all angles? Like this?

dc9c0d16e5532fe1ab7d7edb92041ee6.jpg

This is my own TM lid but it gives an idea of the ideal alignment. :-)

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On 10/12/2020 at 11:31 PM, CableGuy said:

Hi trooper,

The gaps at the moment are caused by the alignment of the faceplate. You’ll want to carefully remove the rivets and experiment with magnets first to get it aligned correctly.


Notice below on an original helmet how the yellow line flows from back to faceplate.

99a0fc78b655f9bfc5cbb4825bc77da3.plist

At the moment, yours is very offset.

fd8b8e232cf0303a66d957840ce3c4dc.jpg

This is the primary cause of the gaps.

Do you have photos from around 6 feet back (always the best distance to take photos from) from all angles? Like this?

dc9c0d16e5532fe1ab7d7edb92041ee6.jpg

This is my own TM lid but it gives an idea of the ideal alignment. :-)

Thanks! Adjustments have been made... do you recall if you trimmed much off of where the brow trim will be? If I line up the yellow lines, it pushes the eyes pretty close to the brow.

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Hi folks,

Ears are attached and completed thanks to the tutorials posted earlier. I’m pretty happy with the contour of the ears. It took a few hours, I’d say, just going back and forth with the Dremel and a pencil.

The screws are in, although they protrude slightly. Should the holes be drilled slightly larger than they currently are to allow it to be flush?

In starting to trim up the underside, I noticed a small stress crack. Any suggestions on how to reinforce this?

I’ve ordered mesh for the frown and painting stencils from trooperbay.

Thanks all!


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Nice work, although your right side looks a little straight, compare with the images Dan posted above

730c85099fb4a2feb4045861b92c15da.jpg&key

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9 hours ago, rtfitzpa said:

The screws are in, although they protrude slightly. Should the holes be drilled slightly larger than they currently are to allow it to be flush?

Use a large drill and gently turn it by hand to countersunk the screws:salute:

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Some updates:

 

Most parts are roughly trimmed. Per TM’s suggestion, the edge of the canister is beveled and the end caps are trimmed to 20mm.

 

I went ahead and started painting the helmet, using CableDan’s videos as a reference (thanks!!). The grey seems dark to me, but it is Humbrol #5, especially when compared to the canister. There is a handy color code floating around the forums

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I also ordered some screen mesh for the frown and stencils for the other painted areas from Trooperbay and have arrived.

 

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Edited by rtfitzpa
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