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Rogue One TK vs OT TK Comparison

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I see this topic come up a lot and I have not seen a comparison so I thought I would do one. Please keep in mind that my knowledge on this subject is limited and I do not have any experience with OT TKs.

 

So the obvious…

Rogue One TKs are more detailed than OT. As far as I know, all the OT TKs were vacuum formed in High Impact Poly Styrene (HIPS). This process requires a buck (mold) that heated plastic is laid over then sucked to the buck by vacuum. This is a fast and efficient method of mass producing these costumes; however, the trade off is that all detail is minimalized and designed so that the formed plastic can be removed without damaging the buck. For this reason, parts like the helmet and forearms are formed in parts rather than one solid object.

 

Consider an ANH forearm, the rectangle details are not very well defined. There are 2 parts to the forearm. One part has the rectangles and the other does not. The two parts are glued together and then cover strips of plastic are used to hide the seams.

 

JXueBzG.jpg

 

Rogue One TKs are were not vacuum formed. I have heard (although I do not know for sure) that the RO TKs were injection molded. This process requires a 2 or more-sided mold that is completely closed off then heated liquid plastic is injected into the mold. Once the plastic is cured, the mold is opened, and the parts removed. This process allows for thicker and more detailed parts.

 

So both the OT and the RO stormtroopers armor are made from plastic but the RO version is thicker and more detailed. Yes there are differences between ANH, ESB, and ROTJ TK’s but for the most part, the process of making the armor was the same. RO, Solo, and some of The Mandalorian TKs were made to the RO standard.

 

Another consideration in comparing the two types TKs is the methods of assembly and strapping. There is a ton of reference material on how the OT TKs were assembled. There are very specific requirements in the CRLs as to what type of snaps, straps, Velcro, and rivets are used and how they are used. Oddly enough we have less information about how the RO TK is assembled and strapped. One of the best sources I have found for RO TKs is the images from Celebration Europe 2016. In these images we can see Velcro in various places as well as some sort of plastic hook lines connecting the shoulder bells to the biceps. Regardless, the 501st CRLs for RO TKs does not specify how the TK is strapped as long as the strapping is not visible with the exception of the drop boxes and the thighs. It would be awesome if someone who has some contacts with LFL could get some more detailed information and pictures since there is no reason for this information to remain secret this long after RO, I digress.

 

Additionally, there are significant differences in the soft parts of the costume. OT TKs have a neck seal and a black one or two-part undersuit. The undersuit has no detail and most of the people I know who have OT TKs wear under armor. The gloves were rubber military chemical gloves and the boots were slip on brown chelsea boots dyed white. RO TKs have a undersuit that has ribbed fabric at most of the joints and the neck seal. The top shirt has hex mesh in the armpits and the ribbed fabric runs from the top of the neck seal to mid chest. The ribbed fabric must be stitched between the ribs. The boots are the same as the FO boots with a flat sole and side zipper. The gloves are also the same as the FO; although they are all black with leather patches and gridded fabric similar to a mechanics brand glove.

 

Lastly, the OT Tks had holsters and their E-11s are slightly different from the RO E-11. RO TKs did not have holsters. I suspect that it would be difficult to holster the E-11 with a tac-light on the side of it. So lets look at some comparison pictures.

 

These were taking at the ROSW premier. On the left is a member of my Garrison (TK 41808) in his RS Prop Masters ANH Stunt. On the right is me (TK 20980) in my Jimmiroquai RO.

 

RyVR6oy.jpg

 

23essCi.jpg

 

cffubLF.jpg

 

Initially, we look very similar; however, closer inspection reveals the level of detail, shape, construction in each part. So, let’s start at the top and work out way down.

 

The helmet:

xr9Tyob.jpg

 

On the left is an OT TK from ANH, on the right is my ROTK helmet. One of the most talked about parts of the helmet is the infamous eye bump. Look at the right eye on the OT helmet, notice the bump along the bottom of the eye just left of the nose? That is the eye bump. All of the bucks for the OT helmets were hand sculpted and it is unclear if this bump was in the original buck or if it is a result of the vacuum forming process; however, what we do know is that the helmets are not symmetrical. RO helmets are symmetrical and although some people swear, they can see the eye bump, I do not see it on the RO helmet.

 

Moving on, the frown is more pronounced on the OT helmet. The number of visible teeth is also an issue. There are images from ANH that show between 6 and 10 teeth. RO helmets have only 7 individual teeth backed by a dark grey mesh. Another difference is the height of the brow trim above the eyes. The brow trim on the OT helmet fits on the edge of the top dome and is adjustable. I believe the proper gap is about ¼” while the gap on the RO helmet is about 1/8”. It is unclear if the brow trim on the RO helmet is actually separate or painted on. On my helmet it is molded into the helmet and I painted it. I should note that is on of the things that must be modified on the Black Series helmet to make it CRL compliant. The gap on the black series is closer to an OT gap. Lastly, the V-coder on the OT helmet is a molded part that is painted. On the RO helmet, the V-coder is a separate part and there must be a visible gap at the bulbous part of the V-coder and the helmet.

 

9r2vC6P.jpg

 

Looking at the sides of the helmets, the OT tear traps are a simple depression that is painted. The vent lines are painted as is the black outline. The same is true for the temple boxes, although there are no vent lines in the temple boxes. On the RO helmet, the tear traps are also depressed; however, there is a raised portion in the center that is painted grey and the vent lines are cut out (engraved) in this raised portion. I suspect on the screen used helmets the depression is painted black and the raised portion is a glued in part that has the vent lines cut out. On my helmet, I cut the vents out completely and backed them black breathable fabric. The temple boxes on the RO helmet also have a raised portion that is painted grey and just like the OT, there are no vent lines. I have seen a gap between the end of the brown trim and the top of the ear cap on some OT helmets. On the RO, the brow trim comes past the temple box and terminates at the center of the ear cap. There is no gap between the brow trim and the ear cap and the brow trim terminates at an angle.

 

btopTYo.jpg

 

The OT ear caps have visible flat head pan screws (3 of them) and the CRLs require them. These screws actually hold the helmet together connecting the front and back halves and attaching the ear caps over the seams. On the RO ear caps, the screws (2 of them) are molded in and are non-functional. Additionally, the ear bumps on the OT helmets are different. The RO ear bumps are all the same and a very different design from the OT. The outer circle of the ear cap as well as the ear bumps are more detailed and defined on the RO helmet.

 

2KdSA4N.jpg

 

Lastly, the blue tube stripes on the OT helmet is either a decal or painted on. On the RO helmet the tube stripes are completely cut out and for the screen used helmets, they were backed with blue painters’ tape. On my helmet I backed the stripes with a blue breathable fabric.

 

Et2zYLA.jpg

 

The back of both helmets are very similar. On the OT helmet the rear boxes are more trapezoidal rounded in the corners, the box is a depression that is painted grey and again the vent lines are painted. On the RO helmet, the boxes are more rectangular and again they are depressed with a raised portion that is painted grey with vent lines cut out. Again, I believe the screen used helmets had a depression that was painted black and additional parts with the vent lines cut out was painted grey and glued in place. On my helmet, these vent lines are cut out and backed with a black fabric. On the black series helmet, there is a battery box and speaker that must be modified for approval.

 

Although the shape of both helmets are very similar, there are some minor differences. The RO helmet looks thinner overall. On the black series I had to extend the jaw line about 1.5” to fit a proper RO V-coder. The Hovi mics on the RO are exactly the same as the ANH Hovi mics with white interiors and the proper mesh screen. The lenses on the RO are also the same as the ANH lenses, green.

 

If you are considering a ROTK, there are several options for helmets available to you. The least amount of work would be a Jimmiroquai helmet and the largest about of work would be modifying a black series helmet. I have a tutorial for the modifications I recommend in the RO thread. I do not recommend attempting to convert an OT helmet to a RO helmet, but I guess anything is possible.

 

Next, I will be comparing the upper torso and arms. Thanks for the interest.

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nicely done, but I must point out a few errors: 

 

The brow is indeed a separate part. Every R1TK's brow varies in height, shape, and length. I'll post some pics when I have access to a computer.

 

Another note: I don't mean to sound very harsh, and am hesitant to say this, but imho I don't believe the Jim Tripon helmet is a good source for this comparison thread, as beginners researching the actual R1TK helmet's might be thrown off by a few of the inaccurate sculpt features. I think we should use some reference pics from the screen used costumes, as the OTTK helmet you included in the post is a screen used helmet. It only makes sense to compare a SU bucket to a SU bucket.

 

In regards to the Tripon sculpt, the brow on the Tripon helmet is way too thick and the brows should NOT be molded into the actual sculpt. This results in a very 2d look to the helmet.  The eyes are too symmetrical, and the vocoder and mouth regions are off. That's just my personal belief though.

 

On the plus side, I'll be making an update to my Black Series helmet thread, as some very massive updates have been done to the helmet to make it as close to SA as possible.

 

Again, if that sounds real harsh, tis not my intention to bash anyone. 

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No photo description available.

 

501ST4.jpg

 

27756743203_2b95ed9876_k.jpg

 

You can see the brow goes from angled down (above) to perfectly straight (bottom). 

 

See the source image

 

Angled down.

See the source image

 

Straight.

501ST5.jpg

 

Also in this picture, notice how on the eyes are assymetrical, with the helmet's right eye having a "bump" on the bottom, close to the nose. You can see it protrude, and it is indeed very key aspect of the R1TK. However I believe this to be of higher tier in either EIB or Centurion, but that's not needed for basic. Glen Dillon, the designer of the R1TK helmet models, confirmed this assymetry. As noted by Paul Prentice and Ian Reach (the experts on the Crystal packs):

"and most notably the slight squint in the right eye - that Glyn Dillon has confirmed they deliberately added as an homage to Liz Moore (the sculptor of the original ANH TK helmet) - is not present in The Mando opening scene buckets" - Ian Reach

 

Image may contain: 1 person

 

BTS Pic, you can see it more clearly in this shot from the LFL archives. 

 

Below is the bucket 3d model Glyn Dillon made himself for the Mimban TK's, which deliberately show the assymetry of the eyes. 

No photo description available.

 

I took the liberty to flip the image to see the assymetry better. 

 

 

 

 

 

mimban (2).jpg

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TK 14166, thank you.

 

Ok, well Parquette has presented some outstanding evidence. I agree with most of what Parquette presented here. Somethings I would like to point out are:

 

#1 I started this thread as a general information thread for the bulk of people new to Stormtrooper armor and trying to decide if they should build an OT or RO style TK. Since most people new to this have no idea of the minor nuances of the styles, I was concentrating on the overall look and assembly of the two styles. As I have previously stated, there are numerous types of the OT stormtroopers whether it is the differences between the stunt or hero versions or the differences between the ANH, BSG, ROTJ. So to minimize confusion with people who simply want to know the differences between the OT and RO I hoped to stick to the surface stuff and not get too far into the weeds.

 

#2 I have a Jim kit and that is why I used it for comparison. Yes, it is not totally accurate; however, I believe it is the most accurate kit available at this time. I really did not want to hunt down a ton of reference pics from RO to do this comparison just to help people determine which kit to build; however, I do agree with Parquette, that “based on the title” I should use screen reference pics rather than my armor for comparison. Part of the issue I have encountered is the photo bucket crap that happened after 2016. A lot of the images we have in our CRL thread are gone and finding new references images is difficult. Additionally, a simple search for Rogue One Stormtrooper displays a ton of toys that are not actual images of the screen used costume. Anyway, perhaps I should have titled this thread “Rogue One TK vs OT TK Comparison of available fan made kits” or something similar.

 

#3 After modifying the black series helmet and owning a Jimmiroquai helmet, I can state that I believe the Jimmiroquai to be a modified cast of the BS helmet. Here are too many exact same details for it to not be. One example is the method o attaching the Hovi mics on the black series and the existence of the same mounting points in the Jimmiroquai helmet. This also availed me to discover that to get the proper brow spacing on the modified BS, I had to extend the brow down (towards the eyes) and this resulted in a thicker brow, nearly the same thickness of the Jimmiroquai helmet. I do not believe these issues mean that the thicker brow is so significant that it should not be used or permitted in the CRLs.

 

#4 I welcome all comments and/or corrections form everyone. A I stated previously, I am not an expert and my experience is fairly limited to what I have built. Thank you Parquette for your comments and information and please do not take anything I have said here as a rebuff.

 

Ok, not to talk about the Torso:

Starting at the top, the shoulder straps of OT TK are made from vacuum formed HIPS then glued to the chest armor. The back of the shoulder strap is laid over the back armor and held in place with a piece of white elastic (1/4” wide I think).

 

8lEXnp7.jpg

 

The RO shoulder straps are solid and thicker than the OT. It appears that the screen used costumes have the shoulder straps permanently attached to the chest armor or they may actually be part of the chest armor. The shoulder straps insert into a pocket on the back armor. I use Velcro to hold my strap in place.

 

The chest plate of the OT looks to be a bit wider than the RO chest plate. In this side by side picture you can see that the OT (left) chest is shorter and does not come down as far over the abdomen. The outside bottom edges swoop further down on the sides than the RO and appear to taper into the body more. The top sides along the inside of the arms is also wider and cover more of the chest than the RO. The actual sculpting of the breast plate is less severe than the RO.

 

7cNUEFB.jpg

 

The RO chest armor is thinner but taller. The bottom of the armor has a more subtle curve from the center to the sides; however, the bottom of the armor does swoop away from the body in a kind of bell shape. The sides along the arms are more tapered and expose more of the undersuit. The neck line also seems to be further down the body than the OT chest. Overall the chest of the OT looks more like it most covers just the breast while the RO fits more like a shirt. Both chest plates sit over the abdomen armor.

 

IqfmTPj.jpg

 

From the side, the chest plate and back plate are not connected on the OT TK. On the RO TK there is a bridge piece that connects the chest plate and back plate.

 

YSKwlUq.jpg

 

Also, note the sides of the abdomen plate. The OT TK has a two-part abdomen/ lower back assembly that is connected on the sides with pop rivets. The RO TK has a one-piece abdomen plate that wraps from kidney to kidney. Further the RO abdomen plate has side detail such as the diagonal black line. There are vertical and diagonal raised sections as well as panel line details.

 

l6jL8sf.jpg

 

For the back plate, the OT back plate has a protruding rectangle that’s center is recessed with the OII inside. The RO back plate has a protruding rectangle as well; however, it sticks out further and all four sides are more defined angles with sharper corners. The two shoulder strap connectors are separate parts that are attached to the back plate. There is a hole in the top right of the back plate. Further the OT back plate is wider covering more of the back scapular while the RO back plate is more ergonomic allowing for a wider range of arm movement. Both back plates look like they hit at the same point at the neck line while the RO back plate seems longer and covers further down the back. Also, because the RO back plate incorporates the side bridges to connect to the chest plate, the bottom sides are more in line with the body contour but flair a bit to fit over the abdominal plate.

 

QscwJFb.jpg

 

Focusing on the box detail, the OT OII consists of a 12-tooth sprocket. The recesses between the teeth are about ¾ the width of each tooth. The II are two simple raised rectangles centered on a raised square. Because the OT back plate is vacuum formed, it lacks the crisp lines and sharp angles that are evident in the RO back plate. The RO OII consists of a more complex sprocket with 16-teeth and 16 recesses between the teeth that are 4 times the width of each tooth. The II are two raised rectangles with 5 horizontal depressed lines at the bottom of each. The two IIs sit on top of a raised rectangle and there is a visible edge to this lower box as if the two II were attached to it. I should note that the whole recessed area on the RO back plate has a further recessed channel between the inside wall and the raised detail area. Further there is a visible panel line around he outside wall about ¼” down. There is a trapozoidal depression on the top wall where the raised wall meets the back plate and the bottom wall has a staggered bottom line where it meets the back plate.

 

Moving to the abdominal plate and belt, in this side by side you can see that the OT back plate terminates above the back section of the abdominal plate. Also notice that the back half of the belt is white canvas and the Thermal Detonator is attached with metal slide on clips. You can also see an E-11 holster on the left hip.

 

88dLaSZ.jpg

 

The RO abdominal plate is one piece and has a gap about 4 inches wide in the back. This gap is covered by a cover plate you can see in the picture. The back plate sits on top of this cover plate and the abdominal armor. The Thermal Detonator is attached to a hard-plastic back belt.

 

That is it for now, I will continue the belt and abdominal plate in my next posts.

Thanks for the interest.

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No worries man, your stuff is awesome and I love how in depth it is! 

 

Actually, I need to show my BS (lol) mods on my HOWTO thread, I just need a proper way to post the pics without them dying. Last time I copied/pasted them from Facebook, but after a while the links break and are forever lost. Would you by chance be willing to have my send you the pictures to upload to Photobucket or Imger (or whatever site you use), so I could attach it all to a post? I don't have either of those, and already have a whole lot of accounts on my computer xD 

Edited by Parquette

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Parquette, I will PM you.

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Ok, continuing with the abdominal plate. The front of the OT abdominal plate is one of the most detailed parts of the body armor. The groin plate is incorporated into the abdominal armor. In this picture I have several images to illustrate the details. In the top left is the inside (faces the body) of the abdominal plate. Note the return edge along the top, the return edge is present on a lot of the OT armor but not every part has a return edge. Also note the groin plate is all part of the same piece, it is not a separate part. The two detail parts, the center box with 5 button discs and horizontal lines, and the side 4 button box are parts that are glued to the abdominal plate. The bottom left image is the front of an unfinished abdominal plate where you can see that the center box has not been attached.

 

ZuyBs2H.jpg

 

The center image is a completed OT front abdominal plate and the two right images are close ups of the detail parts. Notice the other raised detail in the abdominal plate and how the edges are not as drastic as the edge detail we will see on the RO abdominal plate, again this is the result of vacuum forming.

 

TXgjElt.jpg

 

In the image above from ANH, you can see how the chest plate sits on top of the abdominal plate. The ammunition belt sits on top of the abdominal plate and is attached with snaps.

 

The ammunition belt is constructed from a single piece of vacuum formed plastic that is trimmed. This piece is about 3” wide and all six ammunition boxes are formed with this part. The belt is attached to a white cotton belt that you observed in the back-side images. Additionally, there are two drop boxes that are made from 4 vacuum formed rectangles and are suspended from the ammunition belt with white elastic. In these images you can also see the attachment of the holster.

 

Ch1DS2D.jpg

 

The front of the RO abdominal plate is significantly more detailed.

 

OaxlmXr.jpg

 

In the two images above you can see the vertical raised lines and how much more defined they are from the OT abdominal plate. Additionally, notice the three detailed sections. First, on the left there is a raised rectangle with three horizontal raised lines. Next is the center raised rectangle that starts from the abdominal armor with an angled top. Then there is another raised rectangle inset with the 4 discs on the left side and raised ridges on the right. Notice the detail of the depressed rectangle above the ridges. Even the discs have a raised outline. The raised rectangle on the right side of the abdominal plate has similar staggered detail. Lastly, there are two depressed vertical boxes in the center above the large center detail box.

 

ksVKZ26.jpg

 

The RO ammunition belt is also very different from the OT. The belt is plastic and has a front and back section. The back overlaps the front belt on the sides and looks to be connect with Velcro. The front belt is about ¼” thick and has teeth along the top that align and lock (like gear teeth) between the raised vertical segments of the abdominal armor. The bottom front of the belt protrudes below the two center boxes and then tapers at an angle to a uniform belt height the same as the back belt. On the front belt there are six ammunition boxes like the OT belt; however, not all of these boxes are the same size or shape. The two center boxes are simple rectangles with beveled edges. The next two boxes are rectangles but slightly wider and have a unique angled top with beveled edges. Next the two outermost boxes are larger nearly square boxes with beveled edges. Lastly, the two drop boxes are larger rectangles similar to the OT drop boxes, but the RO drop boxes have beveled edges and are suspended by black 1” Velcro or nylon straps.

 

And that is it for now. More to come and thanks for the interest.

 

 

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I should have included this picture earlier. This picture shows many of the straps and connectors used for OT TK kits. This will become more relevant as we move to the arms and legs.

 

0BOHExX.jpg

 

Moving on to the arms. On the OT TK, the shoulder bells are a single piece of vacuum formed plastic. The shoulder bell is attached at the top with elastic and snaps to the shoulder elastic. The shoulder bell has a strip of elastic that is glued at each end on the inside bottom of the bell. This strap holds the shoulder bell to the bicep.  Additionally, there is a strap that runs from the bell to the bicep armor.

 

POYQEZl.jpg

 

The bicep and forearm (gauntlet) armor are both constructed from two pieces of vacuum formed armor. The parts are sized and glued together end to end. A cover strip is glued over the seam. The bicep will have a strap that connects it to the shoulder bell and then a strap that connects it to the forearm. Both the bicep and forearm armor are completely closed, and the wearer would slide their arms inside them.

 

7LuW2A6.jpg

 

The last piece of arm armor is the hand plate. Most kits come with vacuum formed hand plates that have a black elastic strap that the wearer slips over their glove. For level three certification the handguards must be latex or latex-like and the Velcro strap is not allowed. I have not been able to locate how the screen used hand plates were worn or what they were made of, but I assume that level three is more accurate. Regardless, the hand plates that were used in ANH do not look that great from the reference pics I was able to locate.

 

YS8Uh7t.jpg

 

The RO TK shoulder bells are a single piece of injection molded plastic. The shoulder bells are connected with a black strap to the top shoulder strap suspension system. The shoulder bells do not have a an elastic strap that wraps around the wearers arm like the OT does.

The bicep may be made from a single piece of injection molded plastic since making the mold round would not be an issue. They may have been made from two parts similar to the OT bicep, but I believe it is more likely a single piece of plastic. Regardless of how it is made, the back side of the bicep is open and allows for the bicep to be spread wider. In most of the pictures from celebration 2016, the biceps are not actually closed-up. There has been speculation that Velcro was used for filming to close the bicep. If they were made from a single piece of plastic that is wound tight, then they would close on their own. In the picture below, notice the cover strip on the bicep. It is molded into the part and is indicative of almost all cover strips on RO armor. The top and bottom edges of the cover strip are at greater angles while the sides are almost perpendicular to the top. There is a raised rectangle in the center of the cover strip and there is a thick (about 1/8” wide and deep) panel line outlining the rectangle. Further, you may notice a weird loop cutout on the top of the bicep armor. I have seen another picture of this from a slightly different angle and there is a clear plastic cord that locks into this cutout and I assume connects to the back side of the shoulder bell. Regardless, the shoulder bell must be connected to the bicep for it to stay in place. Other angles of the same artifact show that there are two rounded “J” cutouts and centered rounded rectangle cutout in the top of the bicep armor.

 

7C7DKZu.jpg

 

lCYNVmu.jpg

 

Similar to the construction of the bicep is the forearm. Notice the rectangle detail portion of the forearm. The indentions are more defined and dramatic when compared to the OT forearm. There is no evidence that there is a strap that connects from the bicep to the forearm like the OT TK. There are several screen shots that show the forearm is open and not locked closed so again it may not have Velcro or it may and just came loose during actin sequences.

 

Lastly for the arms is the RO hand plate. The RO hand plates have sharper angles and are more defined than the OT hand plates. There is a rounded rectangle cutout (red circle) on the front of the raised portion of the hand plate. Also notice the glove details in this picture. There seems to be Velcro between the left hand plate and the glove.

 

NLT4R7Q.jpg

 

Ok that should cover everything from the waist up, I will be moving on to the lower parts of armor in the next post. Thanks for  the interest.

 

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