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Dielotski

Dielotski's First Build - ANH Stunt [AM]

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Woot, woot!!!  BBB day!!  Finally after a year of lurking and learning on the FISD.  That's the good thing.  The downside is we are currently remodeling a kitchen in an old house we recently bought.  So...that comes first - Stormtrooper comes after.  Anywho, on with the good stuff!

 

I gave TK-5107 a ride home from work so we took a preliminary look at the contents.

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TK-Kitty approves

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I'm terrible at following instructions

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It's amazing how well packed the kit is

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Later, at the house in need of immense TLC. The kit includes mesh, stickers and green lenses.  Not sure how the stickers for the teeth work...

  LYkG4tYY8g2ZkkWkK9JiSoJGQ0dosm1GYIpP28x-

 

Helmet cushion, S-trim, brow, hovi tips, hovi tip screens, and hardware

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You don't really appreciate the amount of parts and the enormity of the project until you un-box everything by hand... (and appreciate the cost).  Oh, and my god are those thighs huge!  I have a lot to trim off.  But, better to trim than shim if possible.

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Hand guards by @justjoseph63 in there as well. (Purchased separately)

 

Anticipation...It's making me wait.

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Would it be safe to assume that with all of the ESB extras include, if I bought another helmet I could have an ESB kit in addition to AHN?

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Not quite sure what the two bottom ab plates are.  Guess I have more research to do.

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Holster already procured by Darman:

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Boots orderd from Imperial Boots.   Soft goods still need to be purchased.  Various other supplies still need to be gathered. 

 

Giddy and ready to join the Empire,

Ray

 

--Ninja edit: Aiming for L3.  Please critique accordingly.

Edited by Dielotski
Forgot something.
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3 hours ago, Dielotski said:

I bought another helmet I could have an ESB kit in addition to AHN?

Almost, you’ll need to have the holster removable and an extra one for ESB as they had the holsters on the right side with loops. You also need a different blaster.

3 hours ago, Dielotski said:

Not quite sure what the two bottom ab plates are.

Those are Sandtrooper handguard variant  called cheesegraters.

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4 hours ago, TheSwede said:

Almost, you’ll need to have the holster removable and an extra one for ESB as they had the holsters on the right side with loops. You also need a different blaster.

Those are Sandtrooper handguard variant  called cheesegraters.

Gotcha.  Or I could go Hero as well but another canvas belt would be needed.  Food for thought.

And now that you mention it I remember reading a thread on someone making the cheesegraters.   I suppose I could keep the sandy parts for the day the kit gets really banged up.

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LBB day

Going on suggestions regarding Imperial Boot's sizing, I ordered a size larger than may dress shoe size.  Actually I think if I would have ordered my size it would have fit perfectly, but with the extra room I now have I can add inserts and thermal socks for winter trooping.

MOQx-OyCI5KXr-vvBvKzrXatOPGgXxCChCYCLUfc

X_0YtfcXlT5ynsYsxer-ildDZio-ug7PS7e-_thY

Aaj7Sh0hx7mhsmctIYhT5DXV0AzXkHW7VEMpKWTY

Ql0rH6TYf1pkKaVYW1iPfZ68g6LkZzia4FTHxyo5

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Sachets

 

In preparation of actually starting my build I made some sachets for the gluing processes.

 

Made from cotton broadcloth, zip ties and 3/4 x 1/8 inch (19.05 x 3.17 mm) neodymium rare earth disc magnets (N52).  The cloth I used is better than t-shirt material but seems a bit thin compared to examples of sachets I've seen.  If they wear out soon I'll double up the cloth next time.  I bought a yard of each color so I've plenty left over.

 

A nice feature of these magnets is they have a red dot on each to help determine polarity.

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gNuLfQxybH6mQZYqVVSnYJ7sqHTkWQ0JjF1KaZX9
 

Sources:
The broadcloth was purchased from Joann's Fabric.
Magnets from Total Element
(Less expensive ones can be purchased from Amazon.)

 

References:
https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44619-magnets-101/


 

Edited by Dielotski

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Thermal Detonator - The Kit

 

Straight out of the box the tube is 7 9/16" (192 mm) long.  The end cuts were square and clean.  Unless I need to shorten it I'll leave it as is.

 

The control panel pad is 4 7/8" (124 mm) wide on one edge and slightly wider on the other.  The edges will need minor sanding to straighten them up. The curve fits the tube well.  There's a 2mm gap on one side (as I press the other side flush).  I presume E6000 and clamps will keep it flush to tube.

 

The end caps are 2 25/32" (70.6mm) by 1 1/6" (26.9mm).  The edges are clean and square.  The fit over the tube is snug but not tight.  I didn't have any difficulty putting them on.  Other folk have had to shave a bit off of the tube to get the caps started.  Also others have had to drill a relief hole in the tube to allow air out when putting the caps on.  I didn't have to do either.

 

Assembled the TD is 7 11/16" wide (195 mm).

 

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Edit: fixed measurement snafu

Edited by Dielotski

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1 hour ago, Dielotski said:

Straight out of the box the tube is 7 9/16" (19.2mm) long.  The end cuts were square and clean.  Unless I need to shorten it I'll leave it as is.

Having just recently built my Thermal Detonator and studied all of the reference and guidance given by others, I thought I could try and help you. I don't know how much it matters for approvals, but I'll at least chime in to say that from my knowledge, the TD overall length with caps installed should end up closer to 7 1/4" I think the CRL mentions it should be around 7 1/2". So somewhere in that range is what you're looking for if you plan to go for accuracy.

1 hour ago, Dielotski said:

 

The control panel pad is 5 7/8" (12.4mm) wide on one edge and slightly wider on the other.  The edges will need minor sanding to straighten them up. The curve fits the tube well.  There's a 2mm gap on one side (as I press the other side flush).  I presume E6000 and clamps will keep it flush to tube.

Not sure what you mean about 5 7/8" (which is not 12.4mm). But the control panel should be about 4 3/4" long. That would leave 1/2" gap between the control panel and each end cap cut edge.

1 hour ago, Dielotski said:

 

The end caps are 2 25/32" (70.6mm) by 1 1/6" (26.9mm).  The edges are clean and square.  The fit over the tube is snug but not tight.  I didn't have any difficulty putting them on.  Other folk have had to shave a bit off of the tube to get the caps started.  Also others have had to drill a relief hole in the tube to allow air out when putting the caps on.  I didn't have to do either.

The end caps should be about 3/4" in width.

1 hour ago, Dielotski said:

 

Assembled the TD is 7 11/16" wide (19.5mm).

 

 

Sounds a bit long and I'm guessing you meant 195mm not 19.5mm. But, experts here will let you know if that's ok. I'm just trying to give you some feedback in case you're looking for some accurate numbers. There's a certain look that you get when the proportions are right. Some of that has to do with getting each part to have the right dimensions.

 

-Dana

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40 minutes ago, QuartZ said:

Having just recently built my Thermal Detonator and studied all of the reference and guidance given by others, I thought I could try and help you. I don't know how much it matters for approvals, but I'll at least chime in to say that from my knowledge, the TD overall length with caps installed should end up closer to 7 1/4" I think the CRL mentions it should be around 7 1/2". So somewhere in that range is what you're looking for if you plan to go for accuracy.

Not sure what you mean about 5 7/8" (which is not 12.4mm). But the control panel should be about 4 3/4" long. That would leave 1/2" gap between the control panel and each end cap cut edge.

The end caps should be about 3/4" in width.

Sounds a bit long and I'm guessing you meant 195mm not 19.5mm. But, experts here will let you know if that's ok. I'm just trying to give you some feedback in case you're looking for some accurate numbers. There's a certain look that you get when the proportions are right. Some of that has to do with getting each part to have the right dimensions.

 

-Dana

Dana, you're quick!

 

Whoops.  I borked my measurements.  Fixed.

 

Yeah, the CRL says 7 1/2".  The BillHag diagram says the same at 190mm.   The gallery reference shows closer to 8", though.  So I wasn't sure if anywhere in there is "good enough" but I'll probably shave about 5 mm off the tube.   The end caps will definitely need to adjusted.

 

Here's what it looks like with Tony/ukswrath clips as is.

gtryBcwo3xYEu_M4SpelZHfSe6VTg4L1QMNW07Gg

 

Here's what I'm planning on doing (not including cutting 5mm off of the tube).  I've moved the clips over and I'll shave the end caps to the spot where the clips are.  Making the end caps 3/4" (20mm).   The angle of the photo doesn't show the ruler placement very well.

-j52USLrWaKpkCaRfQJqepicOiTrE6wCNZSF5hC1

 

On that note the CRL says the clips should be approximately 1" (25mm) wide.  The clips I have are 1 1/4" (31.6mm).  Considering the source of the clips I'd assume they are good for centurion approval.  If the difference in those measurements are okay them maybe the existing length of the tube is okay as well? 

Edited by Dielotski

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Before you build, look for AM submissions in pre approval, then EIB and L3. You can see the built versions and comments from the more knowledgeable troopers. Check out AJ’s build (he really documented the AM build) and ask questions on the FB group (the armor provider and Eric are on that site). 

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2 hours ago, LTM said:

Before you build, look for AM submissions in pre approval, then EIB and L3. You can see the built versions and comments from the more knowledgeable troopers. Check out AJ’s build (he really documented the AM build) and ask questions on the FB group (the armor provider and Eric are on that site). 

Oh yeah!  A.J. has a fantastic build thread!  Actually it was his that I was referring to with the relief hole and the shaving of the tube to get the end caps on.  I think his caps are a bit smaller than mine.  Other than some minor sanding he didn't make any significant changes to his TD.   No changes to his TD were required in EIB and Centurion requests either.

 

As for FB.  That's too far down the dark path for me!

Edited by Dielotski

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TD Trimming time!

 

I've found that I really like the curved lexan scissors.

 

Trimming 3mm off of the end caps.

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Final results at 20mm

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After trimming 5mm from the tube and 2mm from the side of the control panel.

-pjOb1qRO59I6mqVX7M7qdz2Wi1Z9evHKjLCROGq

DXOpQDMh1TteVctneYJFFzRL9Kfpr-W0mlI-1cfU

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10 minutes ago, Dielotski said:

TD Trimming time!

 

I've found that I really like the curved lexan scissors.

Me too. I used mine to cut and trim 95% of my armor. If you're skilled with them, I say stick to using them!

10 minutes ago, Dielotski said:

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Looks really good to me proportion-wise. Good work! Even if it wasn't necessary, I think your TD looks much better with those minor trims. Little things add up. ;)

 

-Dana

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TD Final Finishes

 

Painting the screws and contemplating working on the ab buttons next.

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Finished product.  Well, mostly finished.  The screws got a bit scuffed up during assembly.  I'll touch those up the next time I have the black paint out.

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On74LNbtm8uXFsc6xHNyJplpUqX37eEmEUJYYblM

S37_zwDwDym2ik4NLeoRXmSW4Qms6zWyYPnR5qdS

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Helmet Questions

 

The bucket is slightly misshapen.  Possibly due to being removed from the BBB and re-packed a few times.

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I tried to apply pressure over a few days in hopes to put it back into shape but discovered two things.

1) Doing so did not affect the shape of the bucket.

2) I caused my bucket to crack...

_Gw0z64JXZD5bJqQHAPkluEpQjA5oHAVJwYPuynp

 

 

So I have a few questions.

Would assembling the helmet as is bring it into shape?

Should I hot water bath it to get it into shape?

Regarding the crack, from what I've read I should drill a small hole at the end of the crack to prevent it from growing, correct?

I presume I should then repair the crack with ABS paste and then put a backer ABS strip behind it to reinforce it.  Does that sound right?

 

 

 

 

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So I have a few questions.

Would assembling the helmet as is bring it into shape? It may, it should rest on the faceplate so could be fine

Should I hot water bath it to get it into shape? It may, but you have to be careful with heating large areas

Regarding the crack, from what I've read I should drill a small hole at the end of the crack to prevent it from growing, correct? If you drill a hole it may not be covered by the brow trim, bit hard to make out so i would check once you have it all trimmed.

I presume I should then repair the crack with ABS paste and then put a backer ABS strip behind it to reinforce it.  Does that sound right? Yep

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1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said:

So I have a few questions.

Would assembling the helmet as is bring it into shape? It may, it should rest on the faceplate so could be fine

Should I hot water bath it to get it into shape? It may, but you have to be careful with heating large areas

Regarding the crack, from what I've read I should drill a small hole at the end of the crack to prevent it from growing, correct? If you drill a hole it may not be covered by the brow trim, bit hard to make out so i would check once you have it all trimmed.

I presume I should then repair the crack with ABS paste and then put a backer ABS strip behind it to reinforce it.  Does that sound right? Yep

Thanks Glen. 

 

I'll try assembly and then see if it will need the heat treatment. 

 

The hole, if I drill one, would be covered by the trap sticker.  The brow trim is tall enough to cover the hole, but, judging by other bucket photos, I don't think the trim should be placed that far back in the trap.

 

I may be trimming the brow line/ear section which would eliminate a portion of the crack and shift back the corner where the crack originated - releasing the pressure on it.

JEH_Tx-PuwEjxaLn8slV3FZilzpHe4zZ2-1t-lQs

 

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On 6/25/2019 at 12:42 AM, Dielotski said:

LBB day

Going on suggestions regarding Imperial Boot's sizing, I ordered a size larger than may dress shoe size.  Actually I think if I would have ordered my size it would have fit perfectly, but with the extra room I now have I can add inserts and thermal socks for winter trooping.

MOQx-OyCI5KXr-vvBvKzrXatOPGgXxCChCYCLUfc

X_0YtfcXlT5ynsYsxer-ildDZio-ug7PS7e-_thY

Aaj7Sh0hx7mhsmctIYhT5DXV0AzXkHW7VEMpKWTY

Ql0rH6TYf1pkKaVYW1iPfZ68g6LkZzia4FTHxyo5

you want the extra size for gell soles :-)

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