Freduster's ANH Stunt TK build (RS Props, aiming for Centurion)

[wook1138[TK]]

Just like Dan said, the ear looks great.  The gap is even screen accurate.   

[Freduster[TK]]

Haha thanks, in this case it was all on purpose of course RS messaged me recently as well saying they forgot to include the cover strips in my BBB, so no wonder I didn't know where to start.. I made the best out of the situation and ordered their strapping kit so they wouldn't have to post two things at different times. The neck seal arrived today as well, so the only thing I still need is the belt that I am going to order from RWA due to multiple recommendations from European and German members. So I'm getting closer to the point where I have all I need to complete the TK in one place, and this is where the real fun is going to begin Luckily I have a couple of spare days to do some uni work so I won't have to extend my studying time due to the big white thing in the basement

[hollowbodies[TK]]

Nice work! That's a great thing when you feel you have finally gathered everything you need to really start to do a lot of work on your armor. Finding all the right stuff is a huige task in the beginning, but once you have everything in place, things start to go smoother and smoother and you'll end up with a nice TK armor before you even realize! Keep up the good work and motivation!

[TheSwede[TK]]

15 hours ago, Freduster said:

only thing I still need is the belt

The belt should be included in the strapping kit (mine was) but shoot them a message just to be sure - and great work on the helmet and ears

[Freduster[TK]]

Thanks for this heads up Daniel, the pack arrived today and it did have a belt included

Came up with another question though, where did you guys get the templates for painting the helmet from? Preferably from Europe, again

Thanks in advance lads!

[CableGuy[Admin]]

28 minutes ago, Freduster said:

Thanks for this heads up Daniel, the pack arrived today and it did have a belt included

Came up with another question though, where did you guys get the templates for painting the helmet from? Preferably from Europe, again

Thanks in advance lads!

Hi Freddy,

 

Ross at RWA does templates now, if you’re looking for bits from Europe. 

 

Alternatviely, Mike at Trooperbay (USA) does good sets. He has some based on the Dave M lid which are very nice.  

[Freduster[TK]]

Perfect, I shall shoot him an email instantly.

[Freduster[TK]]

Helmet update: got a LOT of painting work done tonight, and seeing the lid come together just boosts my motivation more and more

First, I sprayed the inside of the helmet black; mainly because I really liked the look of helmets that were black inside:

Then I did almost all of the other painting except for the little black stripes in the grey helmet areas and the blue tube stripes, but I'm sure I'll get this done soon as well

 

Tomorrow I will hopefully get some more done - and in the meantime you guys can help me out I hope: I got a package from RS yesterday with my strapping pack in it, and it's got random numbers on the little bags but no instructions whatsoever. Also, I don't really understand the process of putting together the rest of the armor, does anyone have a good build or even a video to recommend?

Cheers guys,

Freddy out

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Nice work on the painting. 

 

Will you be extending the frown paint a little more in round two? 

 

Also, if you have tube stripe templates, be sure to check their direction before applying and painting them. :-)

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Toller Job bisher, Teddy!  Stellar paint job on the tears and traps, but for the frown you will need to extend it a bit farther to match these ANH Stunt references:

 

 

 

[Freduster[TK]]

Right, next update! First of all, thanks to Dan and Joseph for pointing out the little thing I missed when painting the helmet, I went ahead and repainted them. Next up is the armor assembly, but for some reason I don't really know where to start I also asked RS Props for help and got a short document with a couple of hints, but nothing too helpful. What was the exact process you guys followed when building your TK? I also feel like the fact that I got an RS armor which is far beyond symmetrical and stuff isn't helping

Also, does this setup look alright or did I accidentally put armor parts where they don't belong?

 

Cheers,

 

Freddy

[shashachu[TK]]

That looks right. Read through a bunch of the pinned build threads, especially ukswrath. There are a number of great RS build threads too. Many people start with smaller parts like the biceps. Use E6000 and go slowly. We're here to help.

[shaunpug[TK]]

Haha thanks, in this case it was all on purpose of course RS messaged me recently as well saying they forgot to include the cover strips in my BBB, so no wonder I didn't know where to start.. I made the best out of the situation and ordered their strapping kit so they wouldn't have to post two things at different times. The neck seal arrived today as well, so the only thing I still need is the belt that I am going to order from RWA due to multiple recommendations from European and German members. So I'm getting closer to the point where I have all I need to complete the TK in one place, and this is where the real fun is going to begin Luckily I have a couple of spare days to do some uni work so I won't have to extend my studying time due to the big white thing in the basement

They forgot mine as well
Not only that, but they made other small mistakes with my accurate assembly pack...I think maybe they were in a hurry but it's frustrating nonetheless.

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[RoCKo[501st]]

Jep, I can only echo...  take a good time reading through build threads, save pictures for each individual part/section such as biceps, calf’s and so on and make specific folders for it.

Start with the easier parts but careful since the asymmetrical parts won’t fit together always at first try!

I find it very helpful to make a folder for each part/section and look at the pictures as a diashow while building.

 

E6000 is a great glue to work with imho, first because it’s a great glue...    

but mostly because it takes more time to cure than most other parts!!!

That’s what most people hate about E6000 but it helps building more slowly and don’t rush anything.

 

That’s THE most relevant hint EVER:    TAKE YOUR TIME!

 

Let me know if I can be of help with anything else, kannst auch auf deutsch fragen!   

Edited June 10, 2018 by RoCKo

[Freduster[TK]]

Thanks for the replies guys, it really helps a lot to see how many people are reading my thread and giving advice wherever I need some, cheeeeeers!

First update in a long time: but I did get a few things done Worked on the thermal detonator to get it out of the way, that's what I enjoyed about my blaster build - you can slowly see all the smaller parts come together into bigger units until they eventually form the final piece. Here is a picture:

 

However I am stuck with a couple of problems. The first is the horrible shape of the RS parts. This is what my front shins look like at the moment:

And this is the back:

Eeeeeeeeeeer, help?

 

Next problem, how do people install the little metal mesh thingies in the hovi mix tips? I've seen a couple of video tutorials about it, but none could really solve my problem..

 

And last, some (hopefully) better news I started to put together the arms! First fitting picture here:

Does this look kinda alright? I am planning to still tighten the biceps and definitely the forearm, but does the rest look alright?

 

Cheers,

Freddy

[CableGuy[Admin]]

Arms are looking good! :-)

 

Not sure about your shins. I’ll let some of the RS guys chip in for that bit.

 

Re the Hovi tip mesh - I used an AA battery to create the shape required for mine. Marked around it and cut to size. Then, just push them (carefully) into place. :-)

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Freduster[TK]]

Yeah I saw that in your build Dan, the problem with the RS kit is that it doesn't have the same little ledge (if that's the right word) inside where the mesh rests once you've pushed it in enough, there's just nothing there .. that's why I'm struggling with it

[TheSwede[TK]]

9 hours ago, Freduster said:

Eeeeeeeeeeer, help?

Nothing wrong with the shins (apart from the fact that the RS shins are two outer halves, plus-side on that is that one can`t assemble them wrong) just cut them to size (mark the overlap, divide by half cutting each side, just make sure the cut line is somewhat center of the limb).

 

9 hours ago, Freduster said:

Next problem, how do people install the little metal mesh thingies in the hovi mix tips?

When you have them were you want them, put a few drops of CA glue around the rim and that will hold them

[hollowbodies[TK]]

Good progress, mate! Your shins don't look that bad. Just cut some from the back to make them fit, add cover strips and it'll be nice! 

 

As for the arms, the pieces look good together. Maybe try to bring your biceps a bit higher and it will be even better! 

[Freduster[TK]]

So it doesn't matter if the calf return edge is not even? That does simplify things a bit @hollowbodies I am going to cut down the biceps a bit more so they should fit under the shoulder bells easily.

Another question: are the back plate and the kidney plate connected at all? I just trimmed down the return edge on the back plate and then realised I might have made a mistake there

Good news, I finished painting the helmet!

 

So I am making some decent progress, and especially with your help I'll be finished in no time

[hollowbodies[TK]]

The calves return edges do not necessarily need to be perfectly even, as long as both sides are covered by a proper-width cover strip (usually 20mm wide for the front of the shins).

 

As for the biceps, they look like they could already fit under the shoulder bells if you just "open" the bells a little bit. I will also help to hold the biceps parts higher if they are tight inside the shoulder bells. However, you can probably still remove a bit from the biceps if you want, as long as you keep a good width for your cover strips.

 

The back and kidney plates should be connected and held close from each other by the inner strapping that you will make inside the armor. You can remove a bit of the return edge, but leaving a little return edge on those body parts leave a better finish and overall look in my opinion.

 

Good job on the paint and the bucket - that's a huge part of the build that is done when you have a finished bucket! Just like this, did you leave approximately the width of a pencil between the tube stripes and the "side" of the face? Just asking because, on one of the pics, the white space looks a bit wide. Probably just the angle of the pic though - and it should not be much of a big deal! 

 

Keep up the good work! 

[Freduster[TK]]

Cheers for the advice again! Hopefully the tiny return edge won't keep me from reaching Centurion... 

Concerning the bucket, the stupid metal inside the mic tips almost drove me into madness, but I did manage to get there in the end. When painting the tube stripes i did make sure there was a pencil width of space, and it might really be the angle of the picture. Now I am just waiting for the higher quality lens to arrive and then I can finish the helmet. Now this should boost my motivation again (if it dies down until then at all)

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

GREAT job so far, Freddy!  I would recommend taking a bit of black paint to the vocoder to sharpen up the lines at the top.  The best thing to use for this is called a "filbert" style brush, which has a rounded end.  I would also give more of a point to your frown on the left side.  The hovi tips turned out awesome!

 

                                                                            Reference image 

                       

 

[TheSwede[TK]]

5 hours ago, Freduster said:

Hopefully the tiny return edge won't keep me from reaching Centurion... 

It won`t so all is good the only Centurion spec is that there can not be any return edge on the wrist end of the forearms (see pic) other than that it`s up to personal preference. 

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

As for return edges on the rest of the armor, I always suggest removing all of it from the bottom of the biceps, (keeps them closer to the chest/back, photos 1 and 2) and the tops of the thighs (keeps them from chafing, photo 3).  Also, removing them (thigh tops) before any fitting/gluing is important.  Otherwise, if you do afterward those areas will be too loose.  You can also remove a lot of the return edge on your chest/back plate, but that is not a necessity, (Photo 4), just personal preference.

                       1.                                                                                                  2.

        

                                 3                                                                                                 4.