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Rogue One Stormtrooper CRL


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{Edit! I cleaned up any mentions of manufacturers so that this could be used without recquiring too much editing.)

 

So far, this could be a start for the basic approval guidelines in the CRL:

 

Helmet:

-Is generically symmetrical (there is the iconic bump on the bottom of the left eye (viewer's view).

-Lenses are green or dark green, but are made to conceal the wearer's eyes.

-Tube stripes are recessed, and painted dark blue.

-The brow can vary in height, but is reccomended to stay close to the eyes.

-The neck hole has black trim running along the edge. Whatever method of going about this is up to the builder, however plastidipping the edge or merely painting the edge black will not pass approval.

-Matches same white as rest of armor.

 

Chest armor:

-Is symmetrical.

-Is slightly long, but wide at the bottom.

-Shoulder straps are inserted into some slanted slots at the shoulder area. Same goes for the back armor. The straps have etched or carved sideways lines running along them.

-Is fit to the size of the wearer.

 

Back Armor:

-Is symmetrical.

-Is fitting to the body type of the wearer.

-The bottom sides start to curve around the wearer until they are cut off. A black plastic piece will be placed behind the end and connected to the bottom sides of the chest armor. Can be connected through snaps.

-The back will have a slanted box in the middle of the back armor. The sides with the deepest slants are the top and bottom of the box. In the box will be a recessed area with some thick walled greeblies shaped like O II. On the bottom of the I I's are some sideways line indentations.

-Is approximately same height as chest armor.

-The straps in the slots from the chest armor will go over the wearer's shoulder, and into slots located at the shoulder area of the back armor.

 

Abdomen Armor:

-Is symmetrical and fitted to the wearer.

-Has exactly 5 raised lines in the front, with a center box over the bottom of the middle line. The box has a grill on the bottom right, 4 buttons on the left (the top 3 buttons are dark grey, and the bottom button is dark blue), and above the grill at the top is a mini recessed square with a mini screen of some sorts. Above the box and almost directly below the chest armor, next to the 2 middles lines are 2 rectangular sections that have been carved out. See reference photo for details (for whenever we have one)

-The ends underneath the arms have a raised end, and the ends are slanted forward towards the front of the abdomen, like so, \

-On the left of the abdomen (viewers view), in between 2 of the 5 raise lines is a sideways rectangle.

-Armor extends into upper torso armor.

 

Ammo belt:

-Is entirely made of plastic, made up of 2 pieces, with the halves joining directly in the middle of the wearer's side waist. The rear half overlaps the front half's ends and attach with whatever method deemed suitable by the builder.

-Has ammo boxes across the front, all of them made separately from the main belt and are secured to it.

-The ammo boxes on the very left and right of the belt are more square instead of rectangular like the center ammo boxes, and the 2nd to last ammo box is a more fat rectangular shape versus the regular rectangular shape of the center boxes. 

-Above the thighs of the wearer are located 2 hanging ammo boxes from the ammo belt.

-Is made to fit the wearer.

 

Cod and butt armor:                                                                                                                                                                                                _

-Cod is slanted in shape, with a bump at the middle/bottom that is located in the area of the wearer's cod. The bump's top is shaped like so, /   \

-From the top of the cod armor to the top of the bump is 1 raised, straight line. It is located directly in the middle of the armor.

-Butt armor is made to fit the wearer, and curves around the sides of the butt, and the bottom middle has a slanted in section that extends a little bit in between the back legs. That section looks like so, \_/

-Cod and Butt armor are connected through a strap system in between the thighs of the wearer. 

 

 

Right now I have to go eat dinner, but will post more later. 

Remember, this is for basic approval, so it isn't meant to have exact measurements or anything. I am hoping that with this CRL we can be not so strict with the basic approval guidelines section. More in depth details should be reserved for Centurion and so on.

 

Hope this helps!

Edited by Par_
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R1 TK helmets have actual vents not painted on or decals.

Se link below from Gareth Edwards and Doug Chiang

 

 

https://www.inverse.com/article/24719-stormtrooper-helmet-flaw-rogue-one

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Yup!

Mentioned they are recessed for basic. In the Black series it's going to be difficult to cut out the already recessed vents, so as long as they are recessed, they should be good for basic.

Not sure the black series helmets meet 501st standards. Besides not having the correct tube vents there's a battery cover on the outside of the helmet.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

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Yup!

Mentioned they are recessed for basic. In the Black series it's going to be difficult to cut out the already recessed vents, so as long as they are recessed, they should be good for basic.

 

After the movie release we should have better details regarding the helmet. At this point it's best guess.

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Not sure the black series helmets meet 501st standards. Besides not having the correct tube vents there's a battery cover on the outside of the helmet.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Yup! Won't be approvable without mods, like the Black Series Kylo Ren helmet (there are plenty of Kylo's in the 501st with this helmet modded). Just because it's a toy, doesn't mean it's not fixable for 501st. In fact it's thicker plastic than the vac formed Stormtrooper costumes in the group. So far, the Black Series is the closest thing to a R1 helmet, and just because it's a toy doesn't mean that with mods it should be excluded from the options list. If you compare it with Screen shots, there won't be much difference in sculpt. I think it should be approvable with heavy mods because it is entirely R1 based, and the sculpt isn't far off. In fact, there is 1 sculptor out there who made an incredibly fat Kylo Ren and somehow it is approvable (no offence to the maker)? It is only accurate in details, but proportion is incredibly off.

 

I am wondering why some inaccurate sculpts are approvable for some costumes in the 501st but this really close sculpt that with mods can look like the real thing wouldn't be approvable? Then again, the off-proportion Kylo helmet was made on only a handful of ref images, but still it's extremely big and it's been approved. Speaking of which, be sure to keep an eye out for my upcoming mod posts on the BS Stormtrooper ;) I am going to be documenting the process and proving that this is eligible for accuracy and can be approved with the right mods.

 

And don't worry UKSwrath, I've got the speaker vent on the back in mind ;) Give me a chance to mod this and show people that, with the right mods, can be good enough to pass basic approval. After all, we don't start CRL's with Centurion level information. Btw, could you provide a list of things for me that would keep it rom being 501st approvable? I highly agree with Daetrin. Both the FOTK and the OTTK started with slightly inaccurate armors, but they were enough for basic. Over time stuff got more complex, and it was no longer approvable without mods (at least the OTTK was). We should start out with the basic stuff first, and if it's slightly inaccurate, save it for Centurion. Again, the Black Series is really close to the R1 with a few design changes, which with mods, can look pretty good.

I was mentioning about the tube stripes that they need to be cut out in order to put separate pieces of blue painted plastic underneath. Not cut them out entirely and leave them hollow ;)

Edited by Par_
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Here's a side by side of my mod-in-progress Black Series R1 Trooper, next to a screen grab from a Behind the Scenes reel. As long as the underside of the brow is plastidipped, it should be fine. Height wise for Basic Approval it should pass.

 

 

15440308_379734315698726_563939256732376
 
 
     
15355651_379734312365393_558073868587026
 
I've also discovered that even back armor from the FX armor can work for Basic approval as long as it's modded (for instance, the notches at the bottom of the I I's in the O I I  , and the strap inserts and such).
Here it is next to the Hot Toys trooper, which has proven very accurate (though maybe a few inaccuracies), along with 1 screen cap that shows the back armor.
40567777.jpg
Also a mod that should be noted is the lack of a seam along the inside walls of the back box. This can be modded with a Dremel or rotary tool with a saw blade.
 Rogue-One-A-Star-Wars-Story-6.jpg
Then the Hot Toys back.
However with the bottom sides widened it would be a whole lot more accurate and better looking. So the FX upper Torso with mods will look the part and hopefully pass basic. star-wars-rogue-one-stormtrooper-sixth-s
Edited by Par_
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Hi Reese - I think I can answer that question.

 

First though - the IOC on their Krennic CRL is keeping the first post updated with the current proposal. I'm in training today, but if I have a break or this weekend I'll be doing the same here, or creating a clean top level post and this can be the discussion.

 

As for inconsistencies, it varies from costume by costume. For instance here on the OT TK, for a while the FX helmet was approvable as-is, but the MRCE required the correct number of ear screws, updated lenses, and the seam to be filled with putty. You may ask, why was the MRCE having to have ear screws but the FX did not? Well, the LMO at the time - Darth BarbieDoll (yup, real screen name) wanted it that way. They were trying to up the accuracy bar, but didn't want to piss off the FX folks. It was what it was.

 

We do our best here to make the standards maker agnostic, and when doing the CRLs we - mostly Terrell (SuperTrooper) and I went through great pains to ensure that we never mentioned a maker by name either.

 

Reese - if you can make canonical HOWTO threads for anything RO related, you will certainly find yourself enshrined in the Hall of Build Thread Fame eternally.

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I think a couple of modifications can be made to look more accurate.<br><br>

Helmet,<br><br>

Helmet base can be from a BS rogue one, but the eyes should be cut a bit more, and lenses pushed foward slightly like a bubble (Look closely at images, lenses aren't flat, they're rounded)<br><br>

Lenses could have a darker tint placed behind it as it isn't dark enough (Movie one looks as if it uses the welding tint colour or emerald green)<br><br>

Ears. The ears on the black series helmet is too thin (Skinny) from the front view to look accurate.<br><br>

I think if 3-4mm of body filler is added to the face of the ears, it could look reasonable.<br><br>

Frown should be painted darker.<br><br>

Brow, uh... brow looks little too high for me. I understand in the movie, the brow is assymetrical sometimes and varies between troopers, but the BS is just too high IMO. <br><br>

I would try and modify it, but they way the helmet is designed would be a waste.<br><br>

Battery compartment... remove it., scrap the the battery cover (Not the compartment cover) and use as abs paste, and cover up the seams and imperfections on the helmet.<br><br>

Then polish it with the ye-old toothpaste and vinyl... (I've tried it on my helmet, so it should work.. the polishing of course, not the abs paste)<br><br><br>

It's alot of work to make the helmet accurate. They used the same 3D model that they've used for the jump trooper figure as far I can tell... Further back, the helmet looks good like on film, moving in, you eyes zoom in on the middle sections which gives a weird optical illusion as if it is squashed.<br><br>

I'll try to modify my helmet to meet my standard, and I'll report back once I'm happy with it.

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Just made a HOWTO thread :D Hopefully my mods will be enough for 501st basic standards in any future CRL. Anyone wondering what to do and hoping to achieve the same goal, hopefully it will help. Here's the link: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39843-black-series-r1-tk-bucket-howto/

 

Also GandalfTheImperial, as of now there's not really much of a way to remove the brow of the BS, because it's been molded into the plastic (as mentioned by their ad announcing the product), unless your want to try prying it off with a knife. However, it will be difficult. As much as I'd like to remove the brow, I won't be struggling to get it off unless a better method comes up.

 

Along with that the sculpt itself is fine for basic. If you put it side by side with some of the ref images above or in the other threads, it's pretty good (and may very well derive from the files used for it with a few little changes) and looks the part. However for Centurion and so on the sculpt as you mentioned may have to be improved. Really the main problem with the sides is that the cheeks/tubes are a little wider compared to the original, which may be causing the ears problem. I'd also say that for basic the lenses can be either bubble of flat, because they aren't as bubbled as the ROTJ Trooper, and it's more subtle.

Edited by Par_
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Hi Reese - I think I can answer that question.

 

First though - the IOC on their Krennic CRL is keeping the first post updated with the current proposal. I'm in training today, but if I have a break or this weekend I'll be doing the same here, or creating a clean top level post and this can be the discussion.

If you do this, you'll be in my hall of fame eternally.  LoL.  I have it on my To Do list for January.  :D

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I updated the first post to be the current "here is what we have now". From now on, please post what *changes* or *additions* only you'd like to see and we'll update the first post, rather than re-doing the entire CRL.

 

Also, while this is a different build and for L2/L3 certainly it will need new kit, I am of the opinion that an existing ANH kit modified could serve as an L1. Heck, the sandtroopers used to allow TK sniper plates, ab plates, etc. originally before these things were standardized.

 

L1 really should be L1 - the basics that you can get that make it look pretty good. Else what's the point of L2/L3?

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I am totally with Daetrin on Level 1: keep it basic and generic, like basic is supposed to be.

I for one am going to modify some other armor pieces, while making some of my own from scratch ;)

 

Might I suggest that for the mouth, that a wire mesh of sorts be put back there behind the teeth? Here is a screen used piece, and is seen in between the individual teeth, next to a close enough wire. Courtesy of a R1 Trooper Armoury member.

 

15369146_10208542519216309_5294816164090

 

Also the brow on the black series is a fraction over the 1/4th mark, do you think it'll be ok? Seeing as generically in the film the brows varied in height?

Edited by Par_
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Thank you, Paul.  I agree completely.  In the absence of prepared kits, we should allow for some degree of flexibility for our members who wish to pursue the modifications of currently available kits to recreate this new TK costume.  Looking at this armor, it will likely be a little challenging to do, but the level of fine details in the costumes worn in screen will allow for some incredible translations for L2/3 standards development.

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Someone posted a video today of the screen used Stormtrooper from premiere night last night. I will be using that and other pics of the same suit for my reference material.

Something I noticed is that there is a key detail. On the back armor, there is a noticeable hole below the right strap's slot. It may be on the other side, only further reference material will tell. However, one can assume this may be a screw hole for the strap for better security.

 

I also noted the little tabs sticking out of the belt that slot into all the recessed areas of the abdomen.

Before making the belt I'd reccomend making the abdomen first, mainly so you can model the belt's tabs off of it.

 

Here are some good pics. None of them are mine.

 

15285012_1162420413836100_60720134231635

 

15420941_10210765211702288_5426916111791

 

15349654_10210765212382305_7321815350733

 

15420928_10210765212422306_2887143346551

 

15442370_10210765211102273_3493570705233

 

Take note of that grill I was referring to in the above post.

15492195_10210765211142274_5346634351601

 

Keep in mind that the more fine details will be reserved for the Lvl 2 and 3, but for now concentrating on the very basic details would be the best thing.

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Looks like some troopers have a strap on their left thigh/belt for carrying their blaster?, can see on two of the troopers in this photo.

 

Zsivany-Egyes-Star-Wars-5.jpg

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Feedback added to first post. It almost looks like for the chest plate, the shoulder tab front is actually part of the mold, and the strap is separate.

 

Someone can probably take an FX part, make a mold, then change the details to be RO. Not sure how hard it will be but the ab plate details may be able to be separate pieces put on a normal ab plate and not need a whole new ab plate. Heck - those details were added in ANH from the TD to the TK via extra parts, so it may be something someone can make a mold for easily.

 

The more I look at the armor, the more it doesn't seem like it will take a huge amount of work to make accurate parts. But then, I'm not a maker. :_p

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Yup! I had plans to go the FX route and mod it a little bit to R1. The fron chest and back look fine and match a little bit, just need to add some things and connect them under the arm through a gloss black piece of plastic. I thinkt that could be connexted through snaps on each armor, that snaps the black plastic piece to each side, so that you have a choice on which side you want snapped already.

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Feedback added to first post. It almost looks like for the chest plate, the shoulder tab front is actually part of the mold, and the strap is separate.

 

Someone can probably take an FX part, make a mold, then change the details to be RO. Not sure how hard it will be but the ab plate details may be able to be separate pieces put on a normal ab plate and not need a whole new ab plate. Heck - those details were added in ANH from the TD to the TK via extra parts, so it may be something someone can make a mold for easily.

 

The more I look at the armor, the more it doesn't seem like it will take a huge amount of work to make accurate parts. But then, I'm not a maker. :_p

The only problem with the ab plate is that it has many differences. For instance the center raise line that goes into the box, it is ramped up to the box where it is perfectly flush with it. That and heavily modding an ab to look like this and have carved out sections next to the center raise line would cost a lot. But it's worth a shot!

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Thank you, Paul.  I agree completely.  In the absence of prepared kits, we should allow for some degree of flexibility for our members who wish to pursue the modifications of currently available kits to recreate this new TK costume.  Looking at this armor, it will likely be a little challenging to do, but the level of fine details in the costumes worn in screen will allow for some incredible translations for L2/3 standards development.

 

If it can be done I'd say go for it, but like you said it's going to be a challenge. Will the minimum requirement include the proper ab details, limb cover strips and cut out out helmet tube stripes? Just curious 

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If it can be done I'd say go for it, but like you said it's going to be a challenge. Will the minimum requirement include the proper ab details, limb cover strips and cut out out helmet tube stripes? Just curious

Check out the first post :) There is still time for feedback!

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