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T-Jay

Lucky#Eleven - Phoenix Props Pipe Kit with Completion Set, Conversion Counter, Inner Barrel and more Add-Ons

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Update #19     - The one with the open bolt

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For a while I thought about ending the build at that stage, because I really like the look of that “Sterling”. But the build goes on and the next update will cover the changes to the original Sterlings for converting them into the “BlasTech E-11” from the first Star Wars movie. And who knows, maybe someday in the future I grab another kit just to make a Sterling model… However, here is another picture for your viewing pleasure. Looks like a find on an old battle field...

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Thanks again for reading. Happy weekend Troopers and Cadets :smiley-sw013:

Edited by T-Jay
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As many other have already said your work on this blaster is amazing in fact it continues to push the boundaries of what is possible.

The last picture looks like it could have been taken the day after the battle of Endor except for the model of E11.

Edited by Thrawn's guard
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I refuse to stroke your ego any more. :D Even though it's absolutely deserved.

Edited by Dday
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The next step is simple: you will send this awesome blaster to me :D :D

He's no jedi... lol..

 

Sent from my SM-T705Y using Tapatalk

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I just read this log all over again. Outstanding work. Looking forward to seeing the E11 modifications. This build needs to be pinned. I have been referencing your build for each step of mine. Thanks for your tutorials.

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The details on this is simply amazing! I've been real happy with their DLT-19 that I got from them last year. Some of the gun enthusiasts and veterans have even mentioned how great looking the DLT (German MG34) is!

 

 

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On 22/05/2016 at 10:31 PM, Thrawn's guard said:

As many other have already said your work on this blaster is amazing in fact it continues to push the boundaries of what is possible.

The last picture looks like it could have been taken the day after the battle of Endor except for the model of E11.

Seriously thought about later taking a photo (when the blaster is fully completed) where most of it is buried in sand – inspired by the TFA teaser with the crashed star destroyer and X-wing. The idea was to make it look like another found on Jakku. But I worried to never again get rid of all the sand…

 

On 23/05/2016 at 12:32 PM, Dday said:

I refuse to stroke your ego any more. :D Even though it's absolutely deserved.

:lol: That was a good one. Thanks again for our latest meeting. That was a very nice day and a lot of fun.

 

On 24/05/2016 at 12:43 PM, jkno said:

The next step is simple: you will send this awesome blaster to me :D:D

Do you want it now, or shall I finish it first? ;)

 

On 25/05/2016 at 1:43 AM, sla73 said:

He's no jedi... lol..

:obiwan: “This is not the blaster you’re looking for.   Move along, move along…”

 

On 26/05/2016 at 2:51 AM, kevin926 said:

I just read this log all over again. Outstanding work. Looking forward to seeing the E11 modifications. This build needs to be pinned. I have been referencing your build for each step of mine. Thanks for your tutorials.

Thanks Kevin. Just trying to cover each step to make it easier for some people out there. It is awesome what can be made out of this blaster kit.

I don't think this thread gets pinned, but IF it gets, it would mean a great honor to me. For the E-11 modifications, just scroll down a bit... :)

 

On 26/05/2016 at 6:53 AM, aliens8us said:

The details on this is simply amazing! I've been real happy with their DLT-19 that I got from them last year. Some of the gun enthusiasts and veterans have even mentioned how great looking the DLT (German MG34) is!

:huh:  Jonathan, it seems like something got mixed up here, because so far I have not built, owned or sold any DLT-19

Edited by T-Jay

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Update #20     - Like the prop-builders did in 1976

About 40 years ago, the British Sterling SMG was chosen to be the base for our beloved “BlasTech E-11”.
 
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To not immediately be recognized as a weapon from the British Army, a few changes were made by the prop-builders.
They removed the shoulder straps and shortened the magazines. To further disguise the true origins, they also installed some add-ons.

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Those who read my first blaster build will know the E-11 in the last pictures. ;)  Not perfect, but this was the easiest way for me to make such a comparison.

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After using pictures of Carrie Fisher and Harrison Ford in update #08 already, we now also have Mark Hamill to complete the trio B) In the next updates I am going to cover each of these additions in detail, because it would be too much info for just one single posting. Will close today's entry with another extra photo, inspired by the emblem of the FISD.

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Wishing everybody a nice weekend - and stay tuned to not miss an upcomming extra posting within the next days...

Edited by T-Jay
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Alright, after recovering from a very exhausting weekend ( :smiley-sw013:) I now found time for the promised extra posting.
During the last weeks I was distracted with another project in the background. Why am I telling you? Because it has something to do with Star Wars, more specifically with Star Wars blasters. And now that the project is finished, I thought to share just a few photos of it here...

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And while taking these pictures I thought "hey, why not doing a few family photos?" ;)

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Edited by T-Jay
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I need a bucket for my drooling :D

 

Can't find a single flaw... wich is good ofcourse :D

 

Don't you just love the looks of it :D i know i do...

It made me buy books, and i'm not the book type kind.

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Alright, after recovering from a very exhausting weekend ( :smiley-sw013:) I now found time for the promised extra posting.

 

During the last weeks I was distracted with another project in the background. Why am I telling you? Because it has something to do with Star Wars, more specifically with Star Wars blasters.

And now that the project is finished, I thought to share just a few photos of it here...27279871752_9a14255bce_o.jpg27102036370_0d2b65a2c4_b.jpg27343887326_39098ba9d3_b.jpg

 

And while taking these pictures I thought "hey, why not doing a few family photos?" ;)27101987620_32577f62a4_b.jpg27279860062_ff8765a917_b.jpg27102004330_643ecf92ca_b.jpg

I know you have a few build as shown but I'm not seeing the difference in the set. IE doopy's vrs DDay. Are these all Dday or is there a mix between kits. A side by side comparison may be a fun post. I know your latest is a hybrid of the best available parts and I have seen some side by side comparisons of different parts, but not completed. Edited by kevin926

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Oh Hell No!!!

 

How are we mere mortals supposed to live up to your amazing standards Tino

 

This is a spectacular show of blasters. I'm still trying to find the time to finish my first Doopy build which is going to hide itself in the shadows after seeing these photos.

 

Need to start planning the next one much more seriously.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I know you have a few build as shown but I'm not seeing the difference in the set. IE doopy's vrs DDay. Are these all Dday or is there a mix between kits. A side by side comparison may be a fun post. I know your latest is a hybrid of the best available parts and I have seen some side by side comparisons of different parts, but not completed.

 

These are all build from my kits. To the casual eye it it hard to see the differences if the build is done well.

 

It's down to the fine details.

 

The fastest way to see a doopy is the VERY short magazine and build in T-Tracks. There are other differences like the Serial numbers, the style of the power cells on top of the magazine, metal tube vs resin tube, front sight style and connection method, Flash guards, full length bolt, spring.... oh, well, basically everything.

 

A well built doopy looks great, but really can't hold up against a kit like mine or anyone else that is 1:1 cast from a sterling kit with no/minor modifications.

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Tino, this makes no sense how nice your blaster is!!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

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:jc_doublethumbup:  Superb!  :jc_doublethumbup: 

 

Send one to me to make comparison shots with my real deal :D :D

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On 31/05/2016 at 11:08 PM, kevin926 said:

I foresee a small group of stormtroopers knocking on your door looking for their blasters.

That would result in some sad faces when I have to tell them, all blasters (except my own ones) are gone already...  :)

 

On 01/06/2016 at 12:00 AM, Bulldog44 said:

Truly amazing craftsmanship! Master Builder!

 

On 01/06/2016 at 3:34 PM, Thrawn's guard said:

Impressive......most impressive.

 

On 02/06/2016 at 3:13 PM, Bri_McD135 said:

Oh Hell No!!!

 

How are we mere mortals supposed to live up to your amazing standards Tino

 

This is a spectacular show of blasters. I'm still trying to find the time to finish my first Doopy build which is going to hide itself in the shadows after seeing these photos.

 

Need to start planning the next one much more seriously.

 

On 03/06/2016 at 2:05 PM, sla73 said:

wow.. just wow...

 

On 03/06/2016 at 6:42 PM, Tolo said:

Tino, this makes no sense how nice your blaster is!!

Thank you very much, guys. Your words do really mean a lot to me. I am very happy to have so many people following and commenting on this build.

Glad if this thing could be of any help for any builder out there... 

 

On 01/06/2016 at 10:49 PM, Tr00per said:

I need a bucket for my drooling

 

Can't find a single flaw... wich is good ofcourse

 

Don't you just love the looks of it  i know i do...

It made me buy books, and i'm not the book type kind.

I agree, Dennis. The E-11 has a very individual look and its own fascination. Thank you for helping other Sterling owners to find out more details via their serial numbers. Great service.

 

On 02/06/2016 at 1:34 AM, kevin926 said:

I know you have a few build as shown but I'm not seeing the difference in the set. IE doopy's vrs DDay. Are these all Dday or is there a mix between kits. A side by side comparison may be a fun post. I know your latest is a hybrid of the best available parts and I have seen some side by side comparisons of different parts, but not completed.

 

On 03/06/2016 at 8:58 AM, Dday said:

These are all build from my kits. To the casual eye it it hard to see the differences if the build is done well.

 

It's down to the fine details.

 

The fastest way to see a doopy is the VERY short magazine and build in T-Tracks. There are other differences like the Serial numbers, the style of the power cells on top of the magazine, metal tube vs resin tube, front sight style and connection method, Flash guards, full length bolt, spring.... oh, well, basically everything.

 

A well built doopy looks great, but really can't hold up against a kit like mine or anyone else that is 1:1 cast from a sterling kit with no/minor modifications.

To be exact, I only have 2 builds. The first one is a doopydoo's full resin blaster. The current one is a Phoenix Props pipe kit from Derrek (Dday) with some add-ons.

The comparison photos in update #20 are showing my two builds next to each other. The three blasters from that extra posting are finished standard builds from Derrek's kits (no add-ons). And the latest "family photos" contain those three blasters plus the two I own. Confusing, he?! :huh::D

 

On 05/06/2016 at 3:22 PM, jkno said:

:jc_doublethumbup:  Superb!  :jc_doublethumbup:

 

Send one to me to make comparison shots with my real deal :D:D

Would love to do that, Sergiu. But I worry this blaster might be too fragile for shipping  :(  However, your real Sterling will surely survive that procedure, so send that to me instead :lol:

Edited by T-Jay

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Update #21     - Back on track (T-track tutorial)
 
Every single track in a kit is important. If just one of them gets messed up and a replacement is required, it causes a delay plus additional costs. To avoid this, there should be enough time when starting this work. Tools prepared: heat gun, gloves, side cutter, nose pliers and possibly a flat screwdriver and sandpaper or a file (not all is mandatory, just showing what options there are).

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It is really important to maintain a safe distance between track and heat gun during the whole process, as the arms might become tired after a while. The heat takes some time to get into the plastic part. Depending on the tool‘s power (1000 to 2000 W), this roughly takes about 1 minute - a bit less to correct the „banana bends“ and a bit more for a full bend. Too much heat or a close distance will both result in the „lizard skin effect“ (next pictures). And this cannot be made undone! Therefore it is useful to add the heat to the flat bottom of the track, not to the top. When gravity clearly starts to bend the part, a few more seconds will guarantee it is warm enough. Then it should immediately get bent. When it cools down, the material tries to get back in the original shape. Therefore it is important to keep the part in position for at least half a minute.

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If the heat gun burned the surface, the track might still be long enough for a different row of venting holes after cutting off the damage. Otherwise a replacement track is required. If everything went fine (or in cases of very little lizard skin) the heated end can be inserted into a receiver hole. All holes are the same (except the bigger one behind the front sight) and it does not matter, which one is used to bend the track. I personally prefer the row with the magazine well, because here the track can be worked in full length without anything in the way. Note: This is the only row with 10 holes to cover. All other rows have only 9 holes. If a track got messed up here, it might still work for another position.

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To permanently install a T-track, the correct length needs to be found. 10 mm to the front end of the farthest hole will save enough material for a nice bend. In case the tracks are being installed prior to the scope rail, it is useful to temporarily cover the receiver hole for the rail - just to avoid accidentally installing the top track there ;) Only 6 of the 8 rows need to get covered. Tracks are not required on the row with the bayonet lug and the bottom row (because of the folding stock).

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If one or more tracks are rattling on the receiver tube, this can easily get fixed by semi-heating both ends. The material will then try to get back to the original (straight) shape. As a result, the tracks will hold themselves locked in the receiver holes. It is recommended to not paint T-tracks (if not inevitable). The different color and surface will make them look more believable. Weathering with colored highlights is questionable, as the prop makers also used black plastic tracks for the Sterlings in the movies. Scratches or dust are no problem. 
That's it for today. Thanks for any comments, questions and critics :)

Edited by T-Jay
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Excellent tutorial for adding the t-tracks on a blaster! Saved!

 

Thanks Sergiu. Thought it would make sense to cover these steps in detail, as I never came across a tutorial for this work here on FISD.

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Update #22     - The power cylinders
 
A few years ago, Andy (PlayfulWolfCub) started his impressive research to find out more about the power cylinders. If unaware, I highly recommend studying his PDF files. Derrek’s blaster kits contain a resin copy of these beautiful metal power cylinders (approved by Andy). Additionally I had ordered the 3D-printed version from Chris (maninthesuitcase). Both will now be compared to my PlayfulWolfCub’s prototype (shape A).
 
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The white 3D-print is VERY close - especially when considering, Chris designed this without having one in hands. His backplate is a shape C, which is very good, because it can also be trimmed to shapes A and B.
 
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If ordering 3D-parts for building an E-11, it makes more sense to go with dark colors. I only chose white, because three colors were available when I took a total of three parts (see update #10). However, the real mistake was to not smoothen the surface before painting. It still looks rough and therefore unreal. My fault due to hurrying :( Let’s now have a look at the black resin copy. It was taken from a metal version, consists of two pieces and looks very accurate. It only needs very few modifications.
 
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Still a bit different to the real thing, but good enough for me :D Although both are shape A, I found minor differences - meaning, there was some evolution from the early to the later versions, of which one was used for the resin casts. And here are some pictures of all three power cylinders.
 
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The metal prototype will stay in the display case and for this build I am going to use the resin cylinders. The 3D part is saved up for something else...

As always, the next update will be ready in a week…

Edited by T-Jay
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