usaeatt2 Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 A minor update...the next detail was inspired by Bulldog44 and took MUCH longer than I thought... Working tunes - found this band tonight...if you like Candlebox, you're gonna LOVE this band. I had to look it up to make sure they didn't reform under another name - turns out they're from Austria and have toured all over Europe. Australian guys will want to find the track "A Path Down Under" for some cool didgeridoo action. I'll definitely be adding this band to my playlist! Lots of amazing transitions in this song (click play, then start reading): First I'll start with an EASY modification that's been documented in several builds - the bottom "grip" bolt. I drilled mine out with two different drill bits, then tapped it. I started with a 3/8" Forestner bit (drilled down about 1/4" for the bolt head), then switched to a 13/64" bit for the rest of the hole. I went as deep as I could with the 13/64" hole, then switched to a 1/4-20 tap. Drilling and tapping resin is SUPER easy compared to most other materials. I still had the grip in my drill press vise, so I just moved straight to tapping: The result - nice, clean threads: I have to say, doing this kind of work in resin is a great way to learn how to use these tools. Metal presents it's own problems and the procedure is slightly different, but getting familiar with the tools on resin is easy. The bolt threaded into the hole no problem. Moving onto the detail work... Brian did some incredible metal work for his trigger assembly and I'm trying to duplicate that, but I took a different approach. I'm carving out enough to insert 1/16" aluminum plates. These have the trigger group pins drilled out - I haven't tackled installing the pins yet... So, here's where I started. The right side of the trigger group (the easy side) is carved out. The left side is untouched - how it came from Doopy. I used a combination of exacto blades and dental picks to carve out the resin. This side doesn't need to be carved very deep (maybe 1/4"), so it's definitely the easier side. Next, I made some cardboard templates of the side plates from an original trigger group. Then I checked fitment of the templates in my replica. I traced pencil lines around the areas where the metal would be exposed in the Doopy grip. Then I used a toothpick and a pencil to transfer the depth of the carved slot onto the template. I missed taking some pictures here, but basically, I cut along the pencil line. From the template, you can see my fake metal trigger group side plate will be a 1/16" piece of aluminum about 1/4" wide. Before cutting the aluminum plate, I drilled the 9/64" hole for a pin (this pin holds the trigger group side plates together on a real Sterling and is visible). Next came the carving for the left side. MUCH deeper. Some spots towards the rear reached almost an inch deep. Here's a picture of the left slot being carved - it's about 3/4 done. See the sliver left under the A R S letters? Carving was done over two or three nights. Here are several pictures of the slots completely carved out. The sides are thin and the resin warped very slightly. I ASSURE you, I didn't apply ANY side pressure to cause the warping in these areas (the sides are thin enough that side pressure might cause them to break off). Possibly this happened by releasing internal stresses within the resin while carving? I'm not sure, but it's not a big deal - I will use epoxy to glue in the metal plates and this will fill any gaps. I also detailed along the edges of the grip to make it look like a separate piece. I did the same fitting with the template for the left side. I'm considering "warming" the resin up to see if I can bend it back into shape and close the gaps (it's minor, but it bugs me). I'd rather not fill it with epoxy and have the sides looking thicker than normal, but it's a last resort option if necessary. Here are the finished results of adding the plates: That's it for tonight. Thanks for reading all the way to the end! Comments, ideas or suggestions welcome! Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 very nice. resin won't like heat. can't wait to see what you come up with on this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I'm Batman[501st] Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Awesome work Aaron. You and Brian are masters of this resin carving business! Amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 (...) resin won't like heat. (...) Funny - I was just about to recommend warming up the resin for bringing it in shape Did that on my build in 2 ways: with a heat gun (carefully) and with a hot water bath. Both worked fine and the resin became more flexible. The only problem is to keep it in that new shape while it cools down. @ Aaron: Wow, builds like these (or Brian's) were in my mind back in April when I said to Tim (DarkCMF): Just imagine what people could achieve in their future builds, when combining the best mods into a single blaster. I remember Brain (Bulldog44) wrote something similar recently. And again this leads me to the idea to create some kind of blaster build guide or manual, containing all of our so-far-done-mods for every single part. People could then individually go for the mod they like the most, depending on their skills, options and build type. Sure, this would definitely cause a few organizing and picture-owning issues for some persons. But I think it would be a benefit to countless more people, as this is a heavily frequented forum and resin kits are also chosen very often. That would avoid so many mistakes before even being made… So if there seems to be a need for such a thing, maybe we should stick our heads together to find a way to realise this... Back to the future-build 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TK bondservnt[501st] Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 I would think on a thin wall it might warp more? just a thought? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Yes, the thin top end of the walls can be shielded with something heat resistant to prevent these to warp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Suggestion? ...............none. Completely amazing. Actually insane! You have taken the carving out mod to a whole new level. The time it took to get it all carved out really paid off. The plate is brilliant and please scan & send a copy of the template for me when you get a chance& if you don't mind. Useful for my next blaster build. Don't think I can pull that kind of craftsmanship off but since I have seen it done, there is no other choice than to try. It would be cool to see if you can just create an entire metal trigger group piece tht can be installed after removing all the resin trigger group. I wouldn't worry about the walls of the trigger area. Can't even tell, wouldn't have notice if you didn't mention it. But I know that feeling when things are not just the way you want them. Hope you find a solution to get it where you want things. But seriously, the whole metal plate insert looks out of this world. Love how you added the exact holes too. Something I want to add but afraid to screw things up. You are truly a master at capturing the details. The grip bolt & tapping the hole is another great example of that. Love it! Can't wait to see what you have in the works next! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usaeatt2 Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 @ Aaron: Wow, builds like these (or Brian's) were in my mind back in April when I said to Tim (DarkCMF): Just imagine what people could achieve in their future builds, when combining the best mods into a single blaster. I remember Brain (Bulldog44) wrote something similar recently. And again this leads me to the idea to create some kind of blaster build guide or manual, containing all of our so-far-done-mods for every single part. People could then individually go for the mod they like the most, depending on their skills, options and build type. Sure, this would definitely cause a few organizing and picture-owning issues for some persons. But I think it would be a benefit to countless more people, as this is a heavily frequented forum and resin kits are also chosen very often. That would avoid so many mistakes before even being made… So if there seems to be a need for such a thing, maybe we should stick our heads together to find a way to realise this... I certainly like the idea of a blaster build guide. On the RPF, there's a "One Stop X-Wing Thread" pinned near the top of the Studio Scale Models forum. It's an awesome reference for anyone building an X-Wing model. I'd be more than willing to contribute pictures or any portion of my build threads. In my mind, a guide would be outlined by "part" and show modifications from "classic" to "advanced". Receiver, scope, counter, trigger, folding stock, end cap, bolt, magazine, rail, barrel, selector switch, power cylinders and miscellaneous (for things like hardware). That way, if I'm building a certain part, I could reference that section of the guide to see what modifications have been done. No doubt it would be a daunting task, and I certainly wouldn't want to figure out who's modification to feature in each section. Maybe this could start with an outline, then have multiple pictures of the same modification from different builders? This would randomly provide different photographic angles and contruction methods towards achieving each modification. Perhaps the best way to give proper credit would be to acknowledge all contributing builders in a single statement at the beginning, but not mention it again in each section. Everyone gets credit, no one gets singled out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usaeatt2 Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Suggestion? ...............none. Completely amazing. Actually insane! You have taken the carving out mod to a whole new level. The time it took to get it all carved out really paid off. The plate is brilliant and please scan & send a copy of the template for me when you get a chance& if you don't mind. Useful for my next blaster build. Don't think I can pull that kind of craftsmanship off but since I have seen it done, there is no other choice than to try. It would be cool to see if you can just create an entire metal trigger group piece tht can be installed after removing all the resin trigger group. I wouldn't worry about the walls of the trigger area. Can't even tell, wouldn't have notice if you didn't mention it. But I know that feeling when things are not just the way you want them. Hope you find a solution to get it where you want things. But seriously, the whole metal plate insert looks out of this world. Love how you added the exact holes too. Something I want to add but afraid to screw things up. You are truly a master at capturing the details. The grip bolt & tapping the hole is another great example of that. Love it! Can't wait to see what you have in the works next! Wow. Thanks, Brian! Digging out enough resin to fit an entire trigger group would be insane! The trigger group extends way back into the grip, so that carving wouldn't be for the faint hearted! Maybe something to consider with the Rotozip? I'll scan my trigger group into a 1:1 PDF and post a copy in my E-11 template thread. That way, it's like working with a real part that you can cut with scissors! Give me a day or two - I'll PM you when it's there. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28936-e-11-pvc-pipe-build-templates-imperial-and-metric/?p=367618 I try my best to post crisp, clear pictures with a neutral background - it's all in the details! Thanks for noticing - it makes the effort worthwhile. I have a small, wheeled cart covered in cloth that I use specifically for taking pictures. All of my pictures are iPhone pictures since I don't have a proper camera. I recently set up a tripod to rest the iPhone against and that seems to improve the quality a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted December 1, 2014 Report Share Posted December 1, 2014 No worries on the template, only if you have time. Yeah , you re probably right about the insane part to drill out for the trigger grouping. But if it can be done, then I might try it someday. My real wish would be for a company like Tamiya to create a 1:1 scale plastic model of a sterling that can be put together with all the fun tiny parts. It might not be super durable but then again, you can just buy another kit for a relatively cheap price. It would be super light too! The customizing build doc is a great way to go. It would go a longway to shorten the research for builders to pick and choose mods they want to add to their blasters. You and Tino have listed some great ideas on how to approach this. I am in to help in whatever, way I can. Gotta get my blaster finished first! Sorry back to your build..... Photos look great compared to my sad ipad photos. I gave up on that and went bak to my camera, takes more time to get the photo up on line but clarity is better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I'm Batman[501st] Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Can anybody provide the weight of a completed Doopy with scope and counter (full resin or pipe build)? Sorry, missed this question. Doopy complete kit. Stock Standard, usual inclusions - scope, hengstler, cylinders, aluminium rail. No other frills, just resin, glue and paint = 1020g (sorry, it does also have wires on it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usaeatt2 Posted December 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Sorry, missed this question. Doopy complete kit. Stock Standard, usual inclusions - scope, hengstler, cylinders, aluminium rail. No other frills, just resin, glue and paint = 1020g (sorry, it does also have wires on it) Awesome! Thanks, Ian. Exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks for taking the time to check the weight. That's 2.25 lbs. I should be WELL under that with this build!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted December 31, 2014 Report Share Posted December 31, 2014 Can anybody provide the weight of a completed Doopy with scope and counter (full resin or pipe build)? My DoopyDoo's kit is 1160g / 2.56 lb (full resin build, real counter, many add-ons) Would be interesting to get the weight of a pipe build here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usaeatt2 Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Hi guys - I hope everyone enjoyed the holidays; I sure did!!! It's been so long since I've posted that I had to go back and read my own thread to know where I left off! First, a little music to read by...I was SHOCKED to find this classic tune by an unexpected artist. My wife and I both like Astrud Gilberto (The Girl From Ipanema / Fly Me To The Moon) and I was searching for Astrud Christmas music... That's when I came across this...some of you will recognize the intro immediately, but keep listening... Thanks for everyone who posted the weight of their Doopy kits. I'm still looking for the weight of a full PVC pipe build. I had to clean up my shop for our annual Christmas party, so ALL projects got boxed, stored or displayed. I continued to receive parts and pieces I ordered from Amazon, etc, so when I got everything back out, I started with something I've been wanting to tackle. This is kind of a minor update, but I was REALLY PLEASED with the outcome of this particular piece. I duplicated the ejector using 3/8" solid styrene rod. I ordered the rod from Amazon along with some other construction materials. Why duplicate the ejector? Partly because I've never seen it before and partly because I like the challenge. Only the rear is visible from the exterior of the gun. Having the ejector also provides options when detailing the chamber, depending on how I handle the bolt and magazine. First up, a shot of a real Sterling ejector alongside my 3/8" styrene rod. The first challenge was to figure out how to make the machined edge which protrudes from the side of the rod... Since I had about a foot of styrene rod, I decided to try heating the rod and bending it to acquire the necessary shape. I set up an angle finder using the real ejector, heated the styrene with a heat gun and bent it against a steel plate I have on my benchtop. Next, I sanded the bottom of the bend to a flat profile on the belt sander. Then, I spent a bunch of time marking off centerlines, machined flat areas and holes. I went a little wide with my marks so I would have material left for "fine tuning". I wish I would have taken more pictures during the process, but I got wrapped up in the fun of being back in the shop, UNINTERRUPTED, after the holidays... And, here's the final result. I even managed to make the special marking on the back of the ejector. I sharpened the end of a very small tension pin, chucked it in my drill and carefully added the marks. I imagine that mark is some kind of inspector or "quality" marking - it's on every Sterling I've ever seen. HAPPY to be back to work on this project!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Ahh, the master returns. Glad you had a fantastic holiday. Welcome to 20E7. Who needs molds for resin casts? Looks pretty spot on! And the weight saving? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usaeatt2 Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Ahh, the master returns. Glad you had a fantastic holiday. Welcome to 20E7. Who needs molds for resin casts? Looks pretty spot on! And the weight saving? Thanks for your humbling compliments, Ian! I hope to be the master of something...someday! 20E7 - I LIKE IT! I'd need a good scale to measure the weight savings here, but I can definitely feel the difference between the two. The real ejector feels like a solid steel bolt, while the styrene ejector feels like, well, almost nothing! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Sick! Now that's precision work. Great to see you are back in the shop. Happy 2015! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 4, 2015 Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 This modification is not important, not required and not usefull - but it's so damn cooool Hey Aaron, happy to have you back posting updates again. Ian is right: a molded resin part would not look as precise as THAT thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usaeatt2 Posted January 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2015 Sick! Now that's precision work. Great to see you are back in the shop. Happy 2015! Thanks Brian! Santa put a Tamiya hobby saw in my stocking and I'll be putting it to good use with the Hengstler soon. Thanks for posting about it! This modification is not important, not required and not usefull - but it's so damn cooool Hey Aaron, happy to have you back posting updates again. Ian is right: a molded resin part would not look as precise as THAT thing! Thanks Tino! I had to laugh at myself - I didn't even consider making a mold since I've never done it, but that probably would have worked just as well. Well, that rounds out my 3 fans on the FISD! I appreciate the support guys - I thrive on it! In other news, I received a TOTALLY unexpected request at church this morning... Apparently, there's a group in my area that does Star Wars podcasts. Somehow (word of mouth?), they heard about my work and want me to do a podcast interview about building Star Wars props. I just enjoy building things, so I don't know if I'm qualified to do an interview, but I'll give it my best (I don't even know what I'm doing half the time!). On my short list for things to mention are the 501st, the FISD, the RPF, Astromech and most of all, the FRIENDS I have found worldwide while participating in this hobby. CHEERS to all of you! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulldog44[TK] Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Best of luck on the podcast! Your awesome prop builds speak for themselves.... Stealing a quote from Master Yoda, "No more training, do you require. Already know you that which you need." 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usaeatt2 Posted January 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Best of luck on the podcast! Your awesome prop builds speak for themselves.... Stealing a quote from Master Yoda, "No more training, do you require. Already know you that which you need." Awesome! Thanks, Brian. I might stencil that quote on the shop wall as inspiration for the next time I don't know what I'm doing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bone[TK] Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Well, as far as I know, you have at least four fans ... I wait for updates to your threads everyday... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 So, let's welcome Bernd (Bone) as a new official member in the AIFC (Aaron's international fan club) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The5thHorseman[TK] Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Blaah, too freaking perfect... That's not fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sly11[Admin] Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 So so awesome, I need more popcorn. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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