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usaeatt2

E-11 STEEL PIPE BUILD

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Oh how I wish I had access to such tools and resources!! Why aren't you my neighbor Aaron?!

 

Hi Zach!  Won't you be, please won't you be, my neighbor <while changing into my sneakers>

 

Thanks for stopping by.  My TIG welder is one of the most expensive items in the shop and probably my favorite.

Quite a blessing to have it.  I used to fabricate custom parts for a hot rod shop in Chicago as a side job to make extra money.

Some of these projects were particularly good practice for making a Sterling replica...

 

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We're the "weird, eclectic people" in the cul-de-sac because none of my neighbors quite "get it".

I'd love to have neighbors that are into doing projects and making things!!!

Edited by usaeatt2

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I know how you feel! If you were to walk into my apartment, and look around (thanks to modern tasteful decor and flair provided by the misses) you would never think it would be a place where someone would spend hours with small delicate jewelry files working with surgical precision on a piece of ABS plastic or resin to duplicate objects or helmets from an entirely fictional universe. One time when the other half had a group of all female friends over for drinks and girly things (not at all a sexist comment) one of them thought the door to my office was the door to the guest bathroom, and as I was on my way out the door I heard "man he's got a lot of halloween stuff in there doesn't he?" Needless to say I made my exit like I was trying out for a Delta Force operator position.

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In fact no guns in the film had electronics. Only the Stunt guns (the Bapty ones i guess) had a physical firing system making nose and smoke. And in addition i have absolutely no knowledge in electronics, so it makes two good reasons for me to not like it  :lol:.

The bapty stunt guns you mention here were actually real sterlings firing blanks that are special made for blowback open bolt guns.  the muzzle flash speaks of the overpowdered charge.  the physical firing system was simply the real thing.

 

the guns used for firing blanks were used in the film "the spy who loved me" one of my favorite films in the bond series.

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This post removed as my thread has been copied to external sites...  sorry guys!

Edited by usaeatt2

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Being from a country that you can't have guns unless you're a cop, or in a club, that's COOL!

 

It also looks pretty shiny there. Maybe you should do the first chrome plated E-11?

Edited by Sith Lord

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Looking phenomenal, Aaron!!

 

Nice work.

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Nice! :)

 

Thanks, Mathias!

 

Being from a country that you can't have guns unless you're a cop, or in a club, that's COOL!

 

It also looks pretty shiny there. Maybe you should do the first chrome plated E-11?

 

Believe it or not, chrome plating actually crossed my mind.  A chrome E-11 would be ridiculous with sskunky's chrome helmets!!!

 

That's... massive  :D

 

Funny...my wife says that all the time... ;)

 

Looking phenomenal, Aaron!!

 

Nice work.

 

Thanks, Tim.  Just about ready to add the scope, counter and power cylinders.  Then the dreaded paint.

Edited by usaeatt2

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I think I teared up a little... Awesome!

 

LOL, Brian, there's no crying in Star Wars.  THANKS!

 

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Jonathan, for a split second, I thought the guy on the right was Adam Sandler as ZOHAN.  Thanks for the applauses!

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Just a quick update...

 

I built several rails to try different ideas.  While fitting rails, I ended up disassembling and reassembling the Hengstler about 15 times.  I took pictures of each step, but I think there's already a few "how-to's" (I still might make a Hengstler post anyway because I think the other posts focus on the number wheels).  I removed both the external and internal pins the correct way (so I can wire it up internally), removed and reinstalled the coil and linkage and drilled 2 holes in the case (I had a tough time convincing myself to do it).  I'll be building a few more sets of power cylinders since I have screen accurate parts from Andy.  And finally, I tried to figure out a good place for the trigger switch to activate the counter (there ISN'T a good place for it) - I envy the resin builds in this aspect - if it were resin, I would just dremel out a hole and install the switch.  To keep the bolt and everything else functional, about the only place I have left to install the switch is inside the grip, which means a complex linkage to make it work...  I'll keep at it, because I definitely want to incorporate this feature!

 

So, at the end of the evening, I cleaned up the shop and fully assembled everything for the first time, just to see where I stand.  (BTW, I know one of the folding stock rivets is missing in the photos - I didn't have it installed in the pictures because it's super tight and won't be coming back out after I install it).  Comments and suggestions welcome.  Enjoy!

 

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Edited by usaeatt2

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ðŸ˜ðŸ˜ðŸ˜ðŸ˜

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Looking nice Aaron. Nearly paint time?

 

Is your scope off centre, or just the scope feet off centre to the scope?

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The scope rail conception is nice, but it is really too thick:

blaste10.jpg

 

I love the scope though, it looks wonderful! Good buy :)

 

About Rid's post, i think it contains smileys which appear only when browsing with Tapatalk.

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Looking nice Aaron. Nearly paint time?  Is your scope off centre, or just the scope feet off centre to the scope?

 

There are two reasons you might ask this - I can correct one of them, but not the other.  In the picture looking through the scope, the front sight is very slightly off center.  All I have to do is loosen the front mounting bolt and make a very small scope alignment to the left (Last night, I didn't feel like disassembling and reassembling again).  The other reason you might ask this is because the scope feet do not line up on the right side when you look at them in relation to the edge of the rail.  I don't know if the 1942 M38 scopes are supposed to be this way?  The mounting holes are centered, but one foot is wider than the other.  I wondered the same thing myself and I'm sure someone here can answer the question.  If the feet are supposed to be the same, then someone modified this scope a long time ago (patina on the brass) and they did a really good job (perfectly square and no machine marks).  I'm guessing someone will answer this question quickly.  Here's a picture of the bottom of my scope - see how the feet are different widths?

 

Update:  I checked my 1943 M38 resin scope and the feet are offset the same way.

And the foot shape is different between 1942 and 1943.

Unless someone has something different, I'll conclude that's the way they're made.

 

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Edited by usaeatt2

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A hair thin scope rail is fine if the bolts underneath are really thick and you have a resin scope. Under the weight of a real m38 a thin scope rail would bow way too much. I think it's fine.

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The scope rail conception is nice, but it is really too thick:

blaste10.jpg

 

 

As always, Germain, thank you for your keen powers of observation.  After assembling everything, I figured the rail was too thick.  I made several rails from 1/8" aluminum and gained some experience.  Looks like I'll be donating those or chunking them in the scrap box.  Suspecting 1/8" was too thick, I already bought 1/16" X 3/4" steel bar.  I'll be making another rail and welding on the scope tab.  As an added bonus, by welding the steel bracket together, I can make a small adjustment to the positioning which will allow me to mount the counter FLUSH with the side of the receiver (more screen accurate since the originals were glued).  With the aluminum, there's a small gap that I can't correct.  Back to the shop!!!

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Eh. Stalled out for now. Sander broke. I still need to pick up pipe, styrene, and bondo. ...and I will not tap into my armor budget. I'm hoping to get back on track in a week or two but for now I'm just going to stare at my butt stock and dream. ;)

Edited by TrainWreck

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A hair thin scope rail is fine if the bolts underneath are really thick and you have a resin scope. Under the weight of a real m38 a thin scope rail would bow way too much. I think it's fine.

 

Although it's canon, I am concerned about bowing and I don't like big thick bolts under the scope.  The thin rail also doesn't seem "mil spec" for a real weapon - I'm trusting my aim and firing accuracy to a scope support that bows under the weight of the scope?  Anyway, I've got the steel and I'm going to try it.  Maybe stitch weld a small stiffening rib under the rail at either end?  It's an excuse to weld something...  And when I'm done, I'll have a wide variety of rails to choose from.  Thanks for your, LOL, "support". :)

Edited by usaeatt2

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