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WideAMG's RS Props PVC ANH stunt build

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On the Friday before the Canadian thanksgiving long weekend two boxes arrive from the UK :jc_doublethumbup:



I cleaned out a work space in the dungeon first


This is where is will be locked up the next few months, just send down bread and water occasionally ;)


This is what I received. Some pieces were missing because RS Props didn’t want me to wait and sent all they could so I can begin. Nice gesture on their part. It takes only two days to cross the pond.


The incandescent lighting makes the color look off. This stuff is bright white and shiny B)

I will take detailed pics as I document the build.


Two days later the remaining items come in.


These nice documents will be framed with the armour pics when completed


“Failing to plan is planning to failâ€

This is my first build so I plan on doing the easy pieces first: TD, drop boxes, ab buttons, then the torso, then the appendages and doing the bucket last. I think it makes sense to do the torso before the arms and legs since you fit the pieces up to it.

It’s painful waiting until the end to do the helmet but since it’s the most visible and important I would rather get used to trimming, gluing and painting other pieces first.


My transition to the dark side begins…

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biceps reduced. TD added. ears thinned. mics angled.  

thermal detonator first.


here are the pieces out of the box.


as you can see the tube is the proper grey, OD is 67mm and clips are already bent and attached.


the clips are 25mm wide



caps are rough cut out of the box



I set a vernier caliper to 21mm and tried to score the PVC directly but it wasn't visible enough so I taped it up and drew a line for cutting



cut using a dremel cutting wheel


then sanded down the cut edge to a final 20mm thickness using sandpaper on a flat surface.


control panel needed a lot more trimming.




length of the control panel was correct after trimming and sanding. here is the reference picture.



supplied screws need to be blackened out with a sharpie. getting into the slot is a trick.



caps are fitted to an overall length of 187mm. minding the gap between the clips


if the caps are air tight and wont go on then you can drill a relief hole in the tube beneath the control panel, I didn't have to do this.


center and glued the control panel with E6000 and left to set 24hrs







Edited by WideAMG
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drop boxes.


RS supplies both the inner and outer drop boxes. the halves are pretty trimmed with little flashing but one of the inner shells is shallow at about 12mm so I trimmed this one first which determined the thickness of the outer box and the thickness of the second pair.



shears for plastics are the best in this application. the Tamiya scissors for plastics is popular but my local hobby store did not have them in stock so I bought a set of lexan scissors by Dynamite



this PVC is softer than ABS so these scissors cut through easily with plenty of control


shells are sanded down on a table and assembled. I cannot find a reference to a final assembled box thickness. I like the clean look of straps anchored on the inside so that's what I will do with the RS supplied white elastic straps. shells wont be glued together until I find out what the thickness should be.


Edited by WideAMG
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thanks for all the replies guys. us newbie's would be lost and probably not even attempt armour building without the support of this site. who knew the dark side was so friendly? :lightemperor:

Edited by WideAMG
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Ab button plates next.


the plates need quite a bit of trimming from RS.




I used TK-1650's diagram as a guideline but noted that these dimensions may not fit all armour kits.






trimmed until it the gap was appropriate to the reference pics.



keeping the corners sharp as in the reference pics.

one corner of my big plate is sitting high. I would like to mold it down by heating it. not sure the best way, hairdryer, boiling water, heat gun?


got the paint ready but will wait till the bucket is ready and paint all at the same time.


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Nice, just be careful if you haven't used the paint before, it doesn't like going on thick it will wrinkle when drying, more light coats works better, even if you have to wait for a day for it to dry properly ;)

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When using Humbrol paints you should stir it thoroughly before using. I have used this paint for years and never have any problems with it. I only need one coat and never need to put multiple layers on when painting. Give it agood stir to mix up any thick paint that sits at the bottom of the tin and you should have no problems. Even mix it half way through painting if you see the paint in the tin starting to change colour slightly or going streaky.

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YOu might want to hold off on painting those buttons. There is a lot to do with the ab and you will be laying it down on the front. I don't want to see you re-doing what you already have done. I held off till the very end.

Edited by gazmosis
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Ammo belt


Using TK-1650’s template as a guide only a little trimming was needed on the RS supplied ammo belt.



Drew out the geometry and cut with a metal straight edge and blade.


As mentioned the PVC is soft so there is no really score and snap. The blade will cut through after many passes then is more of a “bend†than snap. Maybe I need a serrated blade instead because the smooth blade does more pushing of material than removing.



This finished shape of the belt



The buttons were one piece. I thought they were formed very close to each other, after I realized how small they need to be.




I fit up the middle button first. This set the sizing for the outer buttons.



These little guys took time to make the right size and square. Keeping the corners sharp like the Lucasfilm archive picture




Here is the final layout. Not glued yet until fastened to the canvas belt obviously.



There is a gap from the outter buttons to the far edges of the ammo belt but dimensions are not given. Going to use the screen reference as a guide.



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Your ammo belt should be narrower. See how the width is in line with the top and bottom of the ammo boxes on the original belt compared to yours?


If you want to paint the buttons now and not damage them, simply put masking tape over them when they are dry and remove it when you are ready to troop :)

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yes troopermaster you are absolutely right :th_AnimatedBravoSmiley:

I left a 5mm edge but the archive photo shows much less, how did I miss that? :huh:  I will correct it. Thanks.


no hurry to paint. as planned, painting will be done in the end with the bucket.

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shoulder straps


as supplied by RS



trimmed to replicate border on Luke's suit




Luke's leading edge looks to be tapered down to the front. the RS straps are not casted that way. I might reduce the border on my leading edge just to give the impression of a taper.

Edited by WideAMG
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I have shown C3PO my progress so far and he was quite EXCITED :blink:  



the infamous x-rated trading card from 1977. these are my 4 originals in a shoe box since 1977.

not related, just throwing it out there for fun :P

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OK done with the easy stuff. now onto the torso.


I trimmed the obvious flashing on the ab section and kidney plate. I actually trimmed more than the line shown below.




I taped the halves together for a test fit. the problem is that the sides flare out quite a bit. I am a 34" waist and this seems fit for a 40-42 waist.




I can still trim more off the ab sides but my main concern is the curvature of the kidney section. the top and bottom return edge prevents the sides from coming in. the top and bottom return edges buckle when squeezed in.



I have looked around the forum and don't see anyone notching the return edges or heating up the kidney to reduce the curvature. there are much slimmer TKs than me out there, how did they do it?

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Although you are limited to how much you can take off the kidneys, you can take a bit more off that ab to bring things a little closer. The townhouse halves will never make a circle. It will be shaped more like an eye but it will fit around you.

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