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TE2 Stunt build up[*TE]

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I was fortunate enough to get a New TE2 helmet from my buddy Guns. In the following days I will be posting a step by step tutorial on how to properly cut, assemble and paint a TE2 bumpy cap n back helmet. So check back in soon. Its gonna be in depth and informative for sure. If you are interested in obtaining a fine helmet from TE2, PM me and I will pass his info along. Tell him TK-4510 sent you :salute:

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I was fortunate enough to get a New TE2 helmet from my buddy Guns. In the following days I will be posting a step by step tutorial on how to properly cut, assemble and paint a TE2 bumpy cap n back helmet. So check back in soon. Its gonna be in depth and informative for sure.

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Ok.... As you know the TE2 Bumpy Cap n' Back is just about the best helmet there is as far as accuracy goes. The original lines of the helmet and faceplate are virtually unaltered from the original. I have been fortunate enough to be able to acquire a helmet from Guns. For the next few days I will assemble, and paint the helmet, and try to explain as best I can how you can do it too!

 

Here's the full helmet kit as I received it. I was lucky to get the Keith mic tips, acetate lens material, stickers, screws, and imported rubber molding....SLOBBER!!! Thanks Guns you ARE the man :)

 

 

 

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Most fortunate for me indeed. Guns just pulled my helmet the other day. I'll prolly have it in a couple weeks. If you dont mind I'm just gonna bring my pillow, blanket and porta-keg and camp out in this thread.

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The first thing we are going to do is pre-trim the ears. If you look carefully at them you will see a faint outline. Take a pencil and lightly draw a line around the ears following the lines....

 

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Take a utility knife and lightly score the lines you just drew with the pencil. Attention to detail, patience and safety here. Notice that I am wearing a glove? Thats because I just got 7 stitches a few months back.....From not being careful or paying attention.... Anyway... Score around each ear three times until a nice score is visible. Be really careful to NOT go off course here, if you do the next few steps may be effected.

 

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Remember that this is just the pre-trim. We will be fitting the ears more later on, but this will get you very close. Ok after you have scored each ear you are going to make break lines or "legs" as I call em'. The ears will kinda look like ants when viewed from above. Basically you are going to score a line from the lines around the ears in 8 to 10 spots. Then when we have all the "legs" done we can start snapping the parts off gently but firmly.

 

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Now we need to work on the faceplate. Take a pencil and trace around the eyes as I have. As a reference draw the teeth as well. Make the teeth square and use screenshots from <a href="http://www.starwarshelmets.com" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.starwarshelmets.com" target="_blank">http://www.starwarshelmets.com</a></a> as references. That site has alot of screen used helmets that will give you a good idea how to trim the eyes and teeth. If you follow my lines here you will be pretty close. Just make sure to make your teeth deep not shallow. AND DO NOT DRAW OR CUT THAT FIFTH TOOTH!

 

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I like to cut the teeth and eyes from the back. I use a utility knife because I can control it better than a dremel. I begin by shaving a slice off until I break through. Go slow, you just want to cut enough out so that you can later do a final trim while you look at it from the front. Once you have all the teeth cut, turn the faceplate over and slowly slice away at each tooth from behind until its square. Notice that I didnt really get all the way to my reference lines, but that I have a nice uniform cut. If you mess up a little dont sweat it. These helmets were cut badly originally so you cant really mess it up, its just MORE screen accurate :)

 

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Be very careful with the eyes. I have messed up my fair share. I start first by using a dremel bit and the dremel on high. Just drill into the eye from the front and slowly go around the inside of the eye removing as much material as you can safely.

 

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Now, using the utilty knife start slicing off thin strips from the eyes. Dont slip or you will cut too much! Trim all around the eyes getting them to the correct shape. Once that is done. Use coarse regular sandpaper to give the final shape to the eyes. Finish them up by sanding with 600 grit wet or dry so that they are nice and smooth. Refer to http://www.starwarshelmets.com for eye cutting. The helmets in ANH were cut pretty shallow towards the inner part and not on the outer part. For this tutorial I am going to follow the lines of the kit. Feel free to do your own thing though. :)

 

 

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This is what we should have so far. Next we will begin repair of the mold damage on the cap n back!!! What, you say??? See you soon!!!

 

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Holy smokes! You weren't kidding - this is the tutorial of tutorials for TE2's!! :salute:

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Yeah, I'm definitely gonna be camped out here for a while.

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You should tell all the newbs to start on the helmet last! Especially if this is their first time working on a TK! The helmet is the one piece you don't want to mess up! You can also use fine files for the frown and eyes!

 

Great write up so far! I'll be watching!

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nice build and very clear pictures,this will spawn many a great TE2 stunt in the future.thanks for your time and info on this im sure to be well thumbed tutorial.

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Ok here we go. We are going to repair the mold defects of the infamous "Bumpy Cap n Back". The mold is made out of a dense silicone and over the years it has been damaged from repeated pulls of plastic. I have circled the areas we will be fixing...

 

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To make the repairs we are going to use these spreaders and spot putty glaze. Just smear on about a half inch thick line of glaze putty and take the spreader and smooth it over the "chipped" areas. Work semi quickly as the glaze starts to chunk up within 30 seconds or so. Let this stuff dry overnight.

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After the glaze putty dries overnight you are going to need to sand it. I use 400 grit wet or dry sand paper. Take your cap n back to the sink and get it wet. Sand evenly across the face of the rim as I am here. Watch as you go and rinse off the helmet occasionally to see how far you have gone. When you think you have sanded enough, remove the helmet from the sink and dry it off. Let it set for a good 20 minutes and take another look at it. It may have small cracks or more filling that needs to be done. When you think you have a smooth surface its time to apply primer! NEXT COMES ASSEMBLY!!!!!

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