darren1970

Hi Steven The resin kit you have pictured looks very much like the kit that I bought. With a bit of care and decent weathering this can look superb and you will have no problems 501st clearing with it. Many say resin blasters are on the heavy side and may break when dropped; Heavy - yeah, but not too much Breakable - no more breakable than my pipe built DC15 or any other blaster ( maybe except modified Stirlings ) At the end of the day if you like it and it will clear - go for it. Darren TK4841

Looking reall nice Steve. Well done ( in advance ) for the EIB status. Darren TK4841

Hi Rob I made the cardinal sin of buying my armour off eBay ( before I had discovered this wonderful place, or had contacted my local garrison ). To be honest it isn't the best kit in the world and if I had bought more wisely my clearance would have come a LOT sooner. I think the point is that some kits require more work to get them lookin good. Mine took a lot of modifying ( thighs were huge and the shoulder bells to wide for example ), but I got there with the help of my fellow garrison members ( many of whom pass on there words of wisdom here ). What I'm trying to say really is that you will probably have a much smoother ride with decent 'fan made' armour recommended from the guys who know. Darren TK4841

You seem to have got a really nice paint finish on yours Johnny. I'm very tempted. I would be interested to here what 'dare I say it "older troopers" think about painted armour durability

Hi all, Been reading this with interest. I have been thinking about spray painting my FX kit for a while ( I was never happy with it's off-white shade ), but have been put off because I didn't know how durable it would be ( rubbing of the thighs scraping paint off etc. ) Now that I've seen that so many others do this, is wear on the armour rubbing the paint off a major issue? Darren TK4841

Simply WOW. I'm a teacher of woodwork/metalwork and the quality of that piece is SUPERB......

Got to get the kidney / butt split on my kit sorted so I can join you EIB guys. I'm feelin left out

Don't know whether you can get it in the States but I used Milliput ( Fine White ) modelling polyester filler for the frown gap. Others suggested silicone filler but I was never happy with the result.

Likewise. I have an FX and MRCE combo too Dave. The only awkward part of the MRCE mods are filling the frown gap and the ears ( if you decide to go that far - I chickened out ) Good luck with the build mate.

Sorry to hijack the thead Shiv but thanks to Mark ( Irishtrooper ) for the offer of EIB advice at Collectormania Glasgow. Also thnks to Steve Parkes ( you know why ) top man. May get to join you as an 'Expert Infantryman' yet Shiv.

Hey Shiv, you and Steve are fast movers. Good on yer. I was gonna put in for EIB, need a canvas belt and a change to the holster amongst other things. Darren

Hi guys. I have an Fx armour and was considering carrying out some modification to ( hopefully ) get it upto EIB standards. I'm confident to do most of the jobs ( which are minor ), but still don't know the best way to address the back/kidney/butt plate fitting. At present I have the abs and kidney as a 'clamshell', permanently attached with ABS on both sides ( one glued / one velcro ). I have cut the codpiece and butt section at the same line ( so the bottom of the 'clamshell' is level ). I want to cut the kidney plate top down to sit under the back plate AND want to have the butt plate 'floating' under the belt ( as required ), but if I raise the belt hieght to free the butt plate, the cod/abs split will also be visible. Could somebody post a side view of how the kidney and abs plates look ( with the chest/back removed ) and also suggest a way around the problem of the cod split showing if my belt line raises. Cheers folks Darren TK4841

Nice work Steven. There's more work on the paint than I'd imagined. Keep posting the pics.

Hi Tom. I can give you an email link to a UK site that sells aluminium and steel tube and pipe. I have sent you the details of 1 1/2" with a wall thickness of 16swg ( 1.65mm ). Not sure if they ship to Prague, but you could ask. --------- Hope this helps Darren

Wow just seen this. Walter, superb work. Can't believe that those are vinyl sheets, and not paint. I'm doing a Clonetrooper build and it has ot me thinking.

Like the others said Richard, two little changes, but a really nice build. Good work sir.

Another option may be to take the piece that has come out and glue it to a larger piece of ABS. This could then be used to butt up aginst the inside of the forearm. ABS does sand and polish out pretty well, the only problem would be if the cut out piece does not fit back in perfectly.

Just read this thread. Can I just check that I've understood the origional response correcly before I take the knofe to my armour and make a HUGE mess. It is acceptable to remove 'some' plastic from the tops of the calves at the back to aid mobility? Cheers folks.

Got any pics of the damage Vincent? It would be handy to see where on the forearm the 'v' is. I think that a butt joint and strip method on the forearms is acceptable, but I don't see why you couldn't overlap a little then attach the covering strip on the 'upper' part of the overlap ( if I'm wrong here, I'm sure one of the more knowledgable guys will correct me ). Darren TK4841

Had a very smelly clonetrooper lid ( fibreglass ). Luckily I don't have any sense of smell, but I've been told that the smell started to go after I gave the inside of the lid a coat of black paint.

Like the guys said, Rubies is just ugly and really no more thn an expensive fancy dress costume.

A tasty lookin helmet.

Don't know if there legal case is sorted yet?

It's never a problem to ask Mike. Are you on the UK Garrison forum too mate? Darren TK4841

Sweet,sweet lid. Shame it's the last