TK5144

i used the measurements here: http://www.tk409.com/images/mg15/tutorial/index.html when I build mine. It was alot of fun, and a cool gun.

can't wait to see your build. Your creativity is amazing. BTW - whatever happened to your PVC blaster build?

TM, MC, DL ?

I have a VT stunt helmet. It is a nice ABS lid. The ABS is thick and sturdy - not as thick as my FX armor, but feels much more sturdy than my HIPS helmet. I have an AP (actually 2 now, 1 still in kit form). The VT is a little bigger than AP, but I think that size on these will vary based on the assembler. VT sends fairly nice mic tips, brow trim and s shaped neck trim with your kit. The lens material is also rigid, from a welder's shield. Also VT comes with great decals. The pull on my VT helmet is not quite as sharp as what I have seen with AP. There are some surface defects and a pretty good fold at the back of the tube stripe area on both sides. Overall - the helmet looks good when complete. If you want perfection in ABS - buy a first quality ABS lid from AP or MC or TM. I would be a nice to see a comparison side by side. My understanding of the whole VT history is The molds originated from CAP who recast an old TE. He bought CAP's helmet molds. Did not cast anything himself. He is very nice to deal with, answers emails quickly, and ships promptly. You can at least be confident that you will get what you order in a timely fashion and any problems will be addressed - I have never heard of any problems with customer service with VT.

Devcon plastic welder.... holds well. rock solid.

look at RT or Kev's ANH v2 or 2.5. I have a v2, and it is my favorite helmet. I also have an RT. Size is about the same. both are bigger than the MRCE. OR - you could wait for the new AM to come out with a new helmet. Derek

I made stirrups like mentioned above, and it works MUCH better than velcro. Reason - the velcro does not allow for any motion. With an elastic stirrup it lets you have some play. I need to take a picture to explain it better.

It has been pretty extensively discussed. Use your search feature on the forum, or try here: http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=9180 3rd post down lists 4 more threads. It seems very well summed up there, unless someone has new info to add. Did the price go up? I thought they were $499 around Christmas time.

I tried them on at Target. Not bad. I think the top of the boot would come out of the shin armor too easily, because they are too short. --------- about as tall as my cheseas (on the right of the picture)

Just picked some of these up at Lowes. FYI - they are NOT drawer glides. They are found in the window screen area - they are base tracks for a screen window type system called screentight.

post them in the for sale section!

IMO - raise the brow a bit (but not too much - take a couple millimeters off then eyeball it). (you are doing ANH style, right?) Obivously, there is no right or wrong.... just personal taste/opinion.

I like what you have done to it. the gap on the right ear is a bit wide, can you adjust it any? I too like the eyes trimmed more, like you have it now. Derek

Why not? if Ebay won't stand up to it? Do you get penalized for not paying?

Care to show how you made the scratch built T Track? yours looks nice!

Did you not use the pre-cut lens that Kev supplied with the helmet kit? I liked how it was all one piece, cut with exact holes marked for the screws from the ear area to keep the lens material all in a wrap around like effect. The curve of the material holds it fairly snug against the eye holes, but there is a little gap for air movement. No glue needed!

Kev's ANH is not small. It is smaller than FX. Not as small as AP, ATA, etc. I have one of his version 2.0. I really like it because of the durability. version 2.5 is the most current version - which maybe a little smaller? but I can not comment having not held both.

The biggest problem with E6000 is the time to dry and be secure (I would wait several hours, maybe up to 24 hours?). If you have something you need done quick, that will not have tons of stress on it - use Zap a Gap CA glue, with Zip Kicker. I have also used the Plastic Welder - it is the most solid stuff ever, dries fast (maybe even too fast), smells terrible. One advantage of the E6000 is that it has a little rubbery flexibility to it even when completely dry. Best advice is probably to get a couple glues and use them as needed. I would be too impatient to do everything with E6000, but it would probably turn out very nice.

I was specifically wondering about this paint - I have not seen it mentioned here.

---------- from Kev's tutorial on making clone boots. the finish looks nice. If it works on those loafers - I would think it would do on some black boots.

http://www.onlinemetals.com/index.cfm I had seen this referenced as where to buy for L brackets for building a ESB Solo DL44 scope mount, over on the blaster builders. Looks like they have lots of aluminum to choose from. Have never used myself. Actually still mulling over the scratch build E11 myself. Looking forward to your build thread! Are you going with the full Doopydoos kit, or full scratch?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Star-Wars-STORMTROOPER...=item27ae3196fb looks like someone is making a resin helmet, cast from the MRCE? brow, neck trim and all! What will they think of next?

Maybe the poll is misunderstood - I interpreted it to be what blaster do you currently USE for trooping, not what is your favorite or preferred/ideal blaster.

What is the size of the D-Ring for the back endcap of the E11? http://www.strapworks.com/Metal_D_Ring_p/mdr.htm They have several sizes, caliber of wire, and even squared vs rounded corners. I was looking at the 1.5 inch lightwire size, with rounded corners. does this sound right?

I think AM has the same bicep piece for right and left - thumbprint on them both.