TK5144

my current armor is FX. this lid is now a little brighter white than my armor. Not sure how much of the luster will wear with time, being handled, etc. I don't have ATA armor (yet). I was not confident on my painting skills, so wanted to try the helmet first. I thought if I mess it up too much, then it could just be converted to a Sandy. I am actually considering making a TD next anyway. If I do get ATA, I will probably go a head and paint it all and then weather it. I still may make the next armor a TK and then weather my FX.... decisions, decisions! If I make this a sandy helmet, I am considering freehand paint for the trapezoids, tears, etc. Otherwise I will get adhesive decals again from tk4150 for the whole helmet if I go TK.

you can see through the eyes abit - the HIPS is a white, a little more dull than when painted. the photos really don't do it justice - it is REALLY glossy now

put together my first ATA helmet. My first attempt at painting any armor used the painters choice primer, then the rustoleum high gloss x3 coats. so far, I am happy with the result. Thanks to everyone for the tips - I never would have tackled the paint job without it

Thanks for the tip. never thought of that, but I agree it would look better.

can you take a picture of the back of the shin area showing where the velcro is?

What about closing the backside of the lower leg - the curved portion of the calf muscle area. Is this closed with e6000 and permanently shut, or does it close with velcro in the back so that the piece opens up so you can get the foot through? I dont think I could get my foot through the fx lower leg without it opening.

Do you glue together both the front, and back of the arm and leg pieces? or do you apply velcro ? Do you paint after all the glue is done? Derek

if you use E6000 glue, it takes at least 12 hours to dry, I even allowed up to 24 sometimes. I like the hold that it has, not near as ugly as the Devcon plastic Welder - although the Devcon is FAST.

dremel from the inside -----

I read on another post, someone slowly shaved it off with exacto 11 blade. Worked well for me. Thanks for the feedback. I tried to take enough off the ears, just not too much. I am happy with it now. I avoided the complete repaint too.

After reading many of the other topics on modifications for the MRCE - I took the leap. Here are some pictures. I think it turned out good so far: 1. ripped out the padding - replaced with a flat piece of soft foam on the top. 2. new lenses from this ----- 3. filled the gap under frown with white silicone caulk. 4. new tube stripes (Thanks TK4510) 5. cut down the existing ears (dremel from the inside method) I also thinned the round center portion of the ears so that they do not protrude so much from the body of the ear piece. 6. cut 4th tooth on each side, made other teeth larger 7. repainted frown with testors gray 8. trimmed about 3 mm from brow - kept the original trim intact and replaced it 9. added screws to the ears

Just primed my ATA helmet with the Rustoleum painter's choice sandable primer. I am going to use the Rustoleum Professional High Performance Enamel. How long should I wait before sanding (600 grit)? Is any waiting period needed to then paint, after sanding? Thanks for the help. This is fun stuff. Derek

Thanks for the input everyone. The belt was approved. Just need to color my blue ab buttons correctly and color the white tag area on the under armor then I am good for approval!

I like that idea! It is hard to fasten behind my back in armor! (hence the misalignment in the picture) Derek

In processing my application for 501st, the GML is on the fence as to whether approve my leather belt. I made it from a 3 inch wide strip from Tandy Leather, dyed it white. simlar to what TK409 described here http://www.tk409.com/tk409.html picture of mine: I am not trying to apply for Elite status, just complete my first armor set to join the 501st. I understand it is not acceptable for Elite, nor actually screen accurate. I don't have the sewing skills to make a canvas one, and I really wanted to do this myself from scratch. I think the leather looks better than the ABS strips to make the belt, which interestingly are still allowed for 501st? From the GML: "do me a favor and make a post asking people's option about it on whitearmor. then send me a link and we will both see what they think. I will allow this discussion to sway me, but normally I would say leather is not allowed." SO - what do you all think. Please be honest, I really don't mind getting a canvas one on one of the runs here ( or putting my wife's sewing skills to the test) Other than that, I think I am almost set to be approved!

it is easier to get forgiveness than permission.

what color are you going to paint the frown, traps , tube stripes etc? Are you going to use decals? or just paint them all? ------------he makes some red ones?

The newest member of Vader's army - Barbietrooper.

where did you find them?

I don't think you will be happy with the fiberglass helmet. If you have painting skills, Check out the ATA thread. http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showtopic=7239

Hi, preparing to get some paint for my first HIPS helmet (thanks ATA!) I have searched and read many of the posts. I have narrowed my choices to: 1. Rustoleum: Painter Touch: Sandable Primer (White) followed by Rustoleum Professional High Performance Enamel (Gloss White) sku #7592. 2. Krylon Fusion gloss white. (no primer needed?) Possibly followed by Krylon Triple-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze? 3. Krylon H2O I am a complete novice at painting. For you experienced helmet painters - I have read that the Rustoleum is difficult to work with? Why? I am leaning towards the Krylon Fusion gloss white, because it seems to be easier for some reason. If I go this route - I am planning to NOT use a primer. Is that correct? How many coats would you recommend? How far apart in time (5 minutes between coats like the Rustoleum?) do I need to use the clear glaze over the top? If you think I should just do the Rusoleum and forget the Krylon, please advise. Looking forward to reading your advice while I get it trimmed and assembled prior to painting.

Are there 5 teeth holes cut on each side?

at 8mm did the entire dimple show?

It looks like taking more than 3-4mm off would expose the bottom of the dimple. I don't want to have to fill that in and repaint. Not sure if it is worth it to only gain 3mm.

how much can you remove before exposing the little "dimple" in the midline that is currently covered by the brow? -----