TK5144

on the backside, glue a scrap of ABS in with CA glue. That will give it strength. then blend your crack with some ABS paste.... it will look perfect from the outside and be strong enough.

Should I move up more and cut at the second line? Should it be between where I cut and my second line, or is this a good length? cut more off. maybe between the lines, but I think up to the second line is fine.

Those glue spots will just be weathering Sent from my SCH-R530U using Tapatalk

your shoulders look to be sticking out. Hard to tell from the pics, but do you have a really big shoulder width? for instance - how tall / how much do you weigh?

hey! what happened to the forearm gap conclusion! the suspense is killing me! seriously - to me the gap is not enough to be concerned with. shin trimming looks good to me. when you test fit you might find you want to take a little more off on the top of the shins

If a person's legs are so wide as to need the front ridge to be 50mm across, should he have the cover strip be 50mm also, or keep it 20mm and allow ridge to show on both sides of the cover strip.?

thanks for posting I have enjoyed watching them

I buy most of my elastic from http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=elastic even with a Joann's sale, they may be cheaper

the best method I have found is - I took 1 inch wide elastic about 10 inches length. I attached a small square of ABS (1 x 1 inch) to the elastic with a rivet, on each end of the elastic. then E6000 glue the abs squares inside the calf pieces forming a U shapped "stirrup", so that the bottom of the U is just at the opening to the ankle. I put my leg into the stirrup while holding the back of the calf open, then slide into the boot. There is enough stretch and tension with the elastic to keep it down very tight. I agree that your boots are not completely accurate, and would not qualify you for advanced status like EIB - but they should be fine for general 501st approval IMO.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIGH-GLOSS-WHITE-ABS-STORMTROOPER-SANDTROOPER-INSPIRED-ARMOR-KIT-100-PHOTOS-/291031666318?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c2d6ce8e I think this is actually the NE maker selling kits now on ebay? cheaper than the suppliers here by over a hundred dollars (unless they have lowered prices recently)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KUURP2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 i like these magnets

1. I did some of it both ways. As long as you are using something like E6000 for glue, you should be fine to glue both sides at once. If you want to be sure that they are straight the first time, then do one at a time. 2. yes the back half will have to be all at once. 3. I used inside strips, just because I thought it would add more strength. In retrospect, I will probably try my next build without them. The E6000 is pretty strong.

my kids jawas too!

is PVC more difficult the makers to vacuform it? Why does no one else offer PVC?

for not much more than that money you could get the lands end chelsea.

Thanks for clarifying this. I thought it was still OK for basic approval.

I did not know that you could not even get a 501st approved TK with CAboots anymore. The CRL page still even show someone wearing CAboots. I knew for EIB and Centurion that more accuracy would be needed.

not even legion accepted?

Is there elastic that attaches the bicep to the shoulder bell? or just the elastic the loops around the bicep that is only physically attached to the shoulder bell?

when did AP helmets change?

wearing mine at work today to break them in. VERY nice boots.

looks alot like Caboots. If you cant get TKboots - consider painting your own chelseas.

another pic here ------------ that angle almost reminds me of the Altman's TK http://www.starwarshelmets.com/Altmanns_Stormtrooper_helm.htm

Kevin Weir is probably already working on the armor!

those TK's look like FX helmets!