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john danter

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Everything posted by john danter

  1. There were 2 bells. These are what me and my cousin made a while back after watching the films. Especially the Luke and Han scenes a million times -------------- SDS are on the bottom and mine in the middle. There a definate swoop in the films, so I made mine slightly exaggerated so it shows better
  2. Bit of a tough one this as different garrisons have different 'rules' about it in general. Lids of, lids on etc but just remember that you are representing the 501st so should always remember that. We usually ask people for their ID, do searches on people, in a fun way. I always look behind kids ears for bugs etc, tell them they've bought the wrong toy and escort them to the Star Wars toy ailse....that kind of thing We do have a stormtrooper called disco steve who dances with a blue and silver leotard on. He'd never do that in public and is quite 'professional' about the way he troops. Stand holding you blaster to your chest and try not to fidget. This is how we do it in the UKG. No one tells us to do that way. It's just a case of watching what others before you do and copy them. It's the accepted behaviour now. You do this for fun right? So standing to attention like a robot all day isn't much fun. Get in there with the public, interact and call people sir and maam. It helps you to be cheeky
  3. I have some of these dude. Please send me a PM
  4. yeah it's what I've done too Check the movies out. Luke and Hans are free floating at the rear. A nice bit of elastic stuck onto the inside of the chest and back over the to back plate works wonders. I just hot guled mine at the chest and warped it fo curve over my shoulders
  5. Yeh have you tried parking outside his place!? Trafic warden central I would pop in and take pictures but I'm back in Cardiff now and I've been down there a few times before. They did look old but not ancient to me
  6. Dude I have a complete never been worn SDS suit for sale. It won't be anywhere near the £995 he charges
  7. Rob, I met you (electronically) many moons ago and would like to think I introduced you to the UK lads. I wouldn't have done that if I didn't think your stuff was ace and more importantly your attitude was ace. John Danter (the fussy git who wanted sepearate ear antenna ) Good for you dude
  8. I'll chime in on this too. The way I do 'mine' is close to the films but I cant know how close as I never saw one up close. I can only guess and have a chat with AA. My back plate is NOT connected to the shoulder bridge. The bridge is formed in a curve yes but just sits there, like the movies. (I actually use magnets) I'm not sure what the white cord like stuff is, but if you look close it appears to be held down with some sort of white string/elastic I connect my chest and back plate with black elastic velcro that sits underneath the shoulder bridge The front chest plate is held to the shoulder strap with magnets (Im sure they just glued them in the films) My shoulder bells are held around my neck with a brace like thing that goes around my neck and under my neck seal. This way there is no load on the frail and fragile shoulder bridge straps. Which I sell spares of by the way. Cough
  9. I've found that cellotape glue and a bit of brown powder paint works well too. Stick the cellotape on (get that wide packaging tape) stick it on where you want in large strips....take it off and then throw the powder at it the armour. It will stick. Then you can smudge it with your finger. I've used both methods. TDH link and mine. Both look great. It's sealing it that's the tricky part. Hairspray works but any other tips guys?
  10. Good question dude. I would say you need to belong to the 501st in some capactiy to get on the boards. So your garrison GML should be able to help you out.
  11. Mylar tape from maplins if you really want to dude. Id just use clips mate. Also I'd say the humbrol #5 does come now in cans. If not I'd just use battleship grey Do you post on the UKG boards dude?
  12. Hello! Does this site have a dedicated area for reference shots at all? Screen grabs, close ups of exhibition shots that kind of thing? If not would it be cool if we did have one? John
  13. Lads, that visual dictionary shot, inside a TK lid, whilst cool, is totally fan made. It's an FX lid if you look closely
  14. oh, and try to get 2 part supreglue off ebay. It dries clear so if you do overspill, it doesn't show. 1 part glue, 1 part activator spray. Loads sell it. Soudal is one
  15. Not really dude. Spilled glue is a niught mare to clean. Especially ABS glue. Most people glue both side of the biceps and forearms. It's usually only the calf peice that tends to be 100% velcro closable. Cant get it on otherwise
  16. midnight blue was used for the buttons, but not sure on the stripes Dave at trooperdecals.com will have them and YES he does ship to the US (Some think Dave doesn't see, but he does)
  17. LOL, that's his armour dude. He makes them
  18. Here she blows. My finished MG34 Jazzed up with lots of filing, sanding, the odd greeblie and different shades of black/gun metal to create an effect it's comprised of several parts The barrel has been sanded in a rotation, so it looks like it's been milled Right hand side Left hand side From above Self made muzzle sights *NB front sight can be lowered/raised Close up of self made catch to stop the bipod from falling down (little teeth under the barrel) Close up of joint (gun metal silver inside to look like real internals) Right side close up. Those nifty looking objects are AC motor carbon brushes. They fit in that slot soooo well, lol In two halves All this weighs 570gms!!!!! :shock: A resin E11 weighs 1100gms. So this baby is superlight!!!! It is for sale as I don't do a sandtrooper. I could walk about as a clean TK with it (Han/dude who checks the falcon), but I can't be bothered Someone has expressed an interest in this but they haven't got back to me yet
  19. I do one that's more accurate. But if you can rip off the Fx plate I can send you the detail curved plate?
  20. Its only ESB and ROTJ that uses green, I think. I use smoked 3mm acryllic
  21. The cushman is slated by some as it too soft etc. For $60 you can't grumble. Just get a file and sharpen it up yourself. If you file away too much, use milliput to reconstruct the effected area. NB this gun with me is just in 80% completed form. this is just to show how to make the gun detable for ease of transport and how to make sure it's lined up correctly Parts in exploded form. Plumbing extension. not sure of diameter parts close up, showing threaded caps etc. Cap inserted to fit snug and true - helps it sit straight when all connected Screwed in slightly - then push in so it all sits correctly. (cap etc will be painted gun metal silver to look real internals as in real gun) complete lined up gun - now unscrew and glue cap in place To ensure straight/true gluing of parts - for the muzzle part, use a rubber washer to make sure a barrel/pipe sits tight through the whole thing. use slow setting glue and check barrel is lined up symmetrically in the flash suppressor. As for the main body, if you find the correct diamater pipe/extension this will happen anyway. just make sure the cap of the extension sits flush with it's edge.
  22. When you're happy with your cut line ..... (score and snap OR tin snips OR Tamia model plastic cutters are really good - curved bladed ones -£3 on ebay) I'd use wire wool to clean it up. Just grab a pinch of it, scrunch it up and rub like mad on the TOP of your cut (so you don't scutt the armour too much) Gives a really nice rounded finish to all your cut lines. Looks well smart
  23. Congrats dude The lid is always a good start. I can't remember where I started with my first one but when I've helped people since I always construct the kit as you would put it on. i.e ab plate/back plate, then chest, the legs etc. Just my thoughts. That way you can see it grow and also see where to trim etc
  24. Try and get one with varied speed high. High and low is fine, lol I say this cos I cut lots of plastic and finds the higher settings will heat up the armour so much it starts to melt around your bit/blade and you lose your cut line. For this I switch to low. for thick plastic fast is fine
  25. Yeah Andrew is a really nice guy and his suits are really good and as far as Im aware it's the only screen accurate suit you can buy ready assembled. I do own a suit but don't troop with it as I like it too much and won't trim it to fit. His stuff, as much as it pains me to say, is probably a recast that someone has done of his original pulls Ironic but probably true. I'd go for RT or yes TM armour here in the UK
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