CallMeMrTibbles

9 down 15 to go Jumped ahead a bit this time My troopers starting to look a bit grubby!

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Countersinking involves making the sides of a hole angled to allow certain types of screw head sit flush with the surface. You can VERY carefully use a drill bit, but that comes with the risk that if it catches it can tear and ruin your plastic. Less risk is a proper countersinking tool. These are available on the net and at most hardware/tool stores. You can use one much bigger than the hole you are working on, just be very careful not to go too deep. You only want to go deep enough that the screw head sits flush, and no deeper. Take it SLOW, and don't apply too much pressure! Doing it by hand (rather than using a drill) is good because you have more control. Be patient and you'll be absolutely fine [emoji4][emoji106]

Morgi, I'm.very impressed with your painting! First time I've seen someone paint with toothpicks, and I wasn't sure it was going to work, but you've done a great job. Good luck with the rest. For the popper tabs, you can use either abs or webbing. Both are commonly used, so it's just personal preference. Some glues can react when they come into contact with metal, so be careful where you apply the glue to avoid metal parts (the reaction creates heat which can warp armour). Not sure if that applies to the original e6000; we struggle to get that in the UK, so I used gorilla glue clear contact adhesive. From the pics you certainly don't seem to have a problem with gaps. As you've said, it's more the opposite. I'm not sure if 'too much' overlap is a clearance issue, but I have a feeling it might be. I've seen posts where people stick some foam padding to the inside of their armour to make it sit right (I have my own padding so didn't need that [emoji1]). Given that, it may be that you don't need to install the second strap, and your belt will do all the securing you need. The only way to tell is by kitting up. Just remember to always kit up wearing your under suit, as anything else may affect how your armour fits. Your going great, and I'm looking forward to seeing your clearance pics [emoji106][emoji106]

(Sorry for another post) Here's a couple of diagrams showing strapping. (Looking from the inside of the armour) And here's some popper tabs I made up for my build using short lengths of nylon webbing. You need enough material around the popper so that it is held securely and doesn't pull free. These are then glued to the inside of your armour using e6000, or something similar.

Definitely recommend referring to the requirements for EIB and Centurion, even at this stage. With how thorough you're being you're going to be well on the way for the advanced levels, and it's far easier to build with those levels in mind from the start, than to make changes later. With that in mind, I did notice one area that isn't a requirement, but will definitely make your life easier later. RS Propmasters build as per the original suits, which means only having one strap on the right hand side of the torso (from the visible 'Han snap' on the ab section to the kidney plate). This sometimes leaves a gap at the bottom of that seam that the belt can struggle to hold shut on its own. What I've seen in a lot/most builds (including my own) is to have a second strap at the bottom of this seam to help keep the gap closed. At higher levels there is a requirement that this gap is minimal. Here's a pic of my internal strapping and you can see the lower strap. Be aware that the fixings for both ends of this lower strap are hidden and not visible from the outside. Any questions just ask.

Looking good Morgi. Loving that you're not afraid to ask questions, and describe each step.

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From comments I've read elsewhere, your idea sounds easier to implement!

Too kind! [emoji1]

Cool. Thanks Glen. Are they stitched at every set of holes? Those pics look like some of the holes have no thread!?

I'm just about to make up some fabric gloves (sweaty digits in rubber is not so pleasant!) What method do you guys use for attaching the guards to your gloves? Do you use the drilled holes to stitch to your gloves, or some other method? Thanks, Rich

6 down 18 to go

Hi Daniel, Welcome to FISD, you're definitely in the right place to get all the help you need. Can't help re first order stuff, but you'll find someone here will be able to get you on the right track. Good luck with your build [emoji106][emoji4] Rich

You're just too good [emoji1][emoji106] These are what I use. Big one for soft parts, small one for repair kit.

It worth keeping checking on those Asos boots, they're very comfy, but I'm sure you'll find some. And yes, its always good to find people you can relate to [emoji4][emoji106]

Hi Paul, I'm also vegan, 6'4" in my socks and no helmet, and in the UK. Really cool to see you here. Below are what I used, just to give you some ideas. I got my boots from Asos https://www.asos.com/asos-design/asos-design-chelsea-boots-in-black-faux-leather-with-black-sole/prd/21328697?ctaRef=my%20orders And dyed/painted them white https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000P5H6Z2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_5Q3F2XEFAXJN9Y5C8CFG I got my holster from Burkbench (just ask for faux leather) https://www.facebook.com/burkbenchdesigns/ And my neck seal (along with my armour) from RWA. For the blaster I went for a rubber Sheartech e11 https://www.facebook.com/sheartech/ If I have forgotten anything or you have more questions just ask! Finally, I totally understand when you say about being shy and unable to approach people. If we're ever at an event together (I'm sure we will be) it will be a pleasure to meet you, and we can look for the vegan fast food stall together! [emoji1] All the very best with your build, Rich

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4 down 20 to go You may be forgiven for thinking I've got blue in some of the wrong places. Hopefully not [emoji1696]

3 down 21 to go Phew, I'm steaming ahead today. Still a bit muddy looking though. Apparently it's best to start with dark paints and get lighter. Dark blue next.

For the benefit of anyone in the UK, this is what I'm using. 175 litres, £20, from Argos. Plenty of room for all armour, blaster, helmet and accessories. (Identical to the one CableGuy uses in the video I shared further up, just with a deeper lid to give extra volume). Standard wheels aren't the best, so swapped one end out and installed light up scooter wheels. (If anyone already has the 145 litre version, the lids are interchangeable)

Whichever case you use, it's a good idea to wrap your black items separately, to reduce the chance of getting black stains on your white armour

[emoji1] Don't tempt me!!

2 down 22 to go Not much of a change yet.

I know this is a different storage trunk, but here's a video from another FISD member on how he packs his armor.