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TKSpartan

Deployment Officer[Staff]
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Everything posted by TKSpartan

  1. We are three in the team and we take the reviews in order of appearance , it would be possible but any of us will be happy to assist you.
  2. Hello Rod, good luck with your 2 approvals and looking forward to see some photos and your application for higher levels soon. We are here to help you.
  3. Hi Marty, Overall nice looking . As pointed above just small adjustments and once you're approved you may want to check our high level programs here to take your armor to a high level of accuracy. Good luck with your approval.
  4. Yes it's the ABS paste as in the guide. About the paint matching , honestly I was a bit of lucky strike. I make a try with 3 different makes of white paint and the 3rd one worked well. Hope this can help.
  5. Welcome to FISD !! looking forward for your photos
  6. Hi Tony. IMHO 1) If you had to estimate how many hours it takes total to complete a kit, what would that be? Trying to gauge how many hours per day I need to spend on this. In my experience with my own kit and TK kits 90 days are enough if you work at least a couple of hours each day. 2) Does every kit need to be completely painted? I live in NYC so spray painting would be very difficult and I'd like to avoid it at all costs. The greeblies from WTF are a little yellow so they don't match, but I can either a) 3D print my own white ones or b) paint just those and get a paint to match the ABS plastic. I was in the same question when started my KB props FO Kit. What I did to avoid painting the whole kit was to use ABS paste from the same pieces to fill most of the joints and fortunately found a spray paint that match the Armor color and this helped me to paint some small sections too. Good luck with your build.
  7. Hi Matt. 1- The Button of the bicep should go in a position that allow you to bend your arm when you carry your blaster. Reference Image The reference below can give some idea of the proportions.
  8. Hi Bart, welcome to FISD and I'm sorry for your lost and hope you can join us soon . Feel free to browse the forum and ask all questions you have. We are here to help. This thread could be useful for your research
  9. Hi and Welcome aboard Alyssa! Looking forward for your BBB day and your Building Thread Post tons of photos and ask all questions you have before cutting or gluing.
  10. Hi Merlin, and thank you for your EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. You have made an awesome work with the requested adjustments Trooper and here a couple of suggestions to improve your great looking armor. Your vocoder paint could be re touched a bit to looks more accurate, just a few minutes painting session can do the trick. Reference Images The posterior (butt) plate is over-riding the bottom of the kidney. I would highly suggest using the V-tabs method (shown below) to correct this. It really does work !. Reference Images A suggested and practical solution is to add a couple of "V tabs" made from ABS .With a heat gun you bend strips of ABS plastic into the shape of a V, only glue one side and the other remains free to allow movement when you bend. Just helps stop the butt plate from pushing back from the back plate. Finally in this section, we have the ammo counter of your E11 Blaster. It looks like it is sitting a little back and as the references, it should, ideally ,be moved forward a bit Reference Images Centurion Requirements; In this section we preparļ»æe you for Centurion. Because Centurion photos show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Centurion might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we seļ»æe, but the final accuracy iļ»æs the responsibility of ļ»æthe trooļ»æpeļ»ærļ»æ.ļ»æļ»æļ»æļ»æ CRL L3: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates. This looks like a simple strapping issue. shortening the shoulder strap and a bit could reduce the gap. Another trick here is to remove the Shoulder Bell's return edge to allow them to sit close the chest armor. Reference Images Reference Images CRL L3: A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present. Your 'Han' snap is present, but also positioned farther away from the edge than the reference images . You will need to drill out the snap, reposition it, and fill the old hole. Reference Images CRL L3. No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. Most probably It could be light effect or my tired eyes but, when applying for Centurion (we are sure you will), please, be sure that the forearms have no return edge in the front. Reference Images CRL L3: Three rivets, approximately 5/16"(8mm) diameter, are present on the left side of the abdomen armor. Rivets are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and about 10mm from the edge Eve though yours are present, the positioning is off compared to the screen-used suits in references. You'll need to remove the rivets, drill new holes, and fill the old ones with ABS Paste. It looks like a lot of work , but it can definitely be done. Reference Images A suggested method for fixing the old hole , (I have used it) is to glue a small piece of abs back and fill the front with abs paste, sand and polish. Unfortunately , The sides of your large ab-button plate were over trimmed. It must have a flat area surrounding it so it will need to be repaired or replaced for Level 3. Reference Images A suggested solutions we have seen in similar cases is to glue a flat piece behind the Ab buttons plate and fill the gap with ABS paste, sand and polish. CRL L3: Ab button paint shall not extend beyond the bottom of the actual raised button. Looking at our small ab buttons panel, the two lower looks perfect in shape and finish, but for the two on top a bit more detail would be required. Just a few minutes of paint session would do the job. Reference Images CRL: The top of the ABS ammo belt should sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical abdomen button panels. Yours is sitting a little down the line and will need to be relocated . A common solution you may want to try for this is to add a piece of velcro behind de AB belt to ensure it stay on site Reference Images CRL Basic: The soft belt proper is made of canvas... The color is be white to off-white. CRL L3: Canvas belt must be firm / sturdy in appearance. No creasing or sagging ļ»æ As per the CRL, the canvas belt must be white or off-white. However, there are a few issues that we will need to see corrected to get you to Level 3. 1. "Off white" is perfectly acceptable, but yours has dark stains on both sides (blue areas) and is quite discolored. Some "battle damage" is fine, but not quite this much for level 3. 2. A few stray threads here and there is no big deal, but some trimming will be necessary. We highly suggest giving it a good cleaning and a haircut, or invest in a new one that better matches the white of your armor. Reference Images CRL L3: Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box. This is a common issue and an easy one to fix. Moving them outward and then applying a dab of E-6000 on the rear of the strap will take care of this and keep it from wandering. Reference Images Moving on, we have your thermal detonator belt clips. there is a noticeable gaps between the clips and the end caps and they will need to be relocated , as you can see in the reference images, in screen used suits, there's no gap present. Reference Images Also related to your TD. We noticed some that the paint is cracked in most of it and a sanding, premiering and paint job will be necessary. Reference Images Although it might seem like a lot of work ahead for Centurion level, we are sure with patience and little by little you can achieve it Merlin. at the end of the day, you will be rewarded not only with the Centurion Badge and certificate, but the pride of looking great on your armor as it came off the movie. Congratulations again and we are here to help every step in your way to Centurion. ***************************************************
  11. Hi Melin, You read my mind. I'm about posting your review in a moment. Thanks for your patience.
  12. Hi Jessie, Thank you for your Centurion submission. Added to the processing line. Good luck!
  13. Welcome Chris ! you have some homework to do with all those info here. good luck and looking forward for your BBB day and Build thread !
  14. I think You could try adjusting the thighs first and suit up to see the result including how the butt plate sits (I don't think the clips on the return edges being the problem) . To make the V tabs it's just using an ABS piece and a heat gun to give it the correct V shape. Please take look to this building thread
  15. awesome looking blaster, Enjoy Trooping
  16. Hi Rodney and congrats for your weight achievement this will bring you great health benefits . About your thighs, it looks like definitively they need a little trimming session. you could do it half an inch and test, trim another half inch if needed and so on. For the butt plate, once you have adjusted the thighs , you can add some ABS V tabs into the butt plate to prevent slipping backwards.
  17. Hang in there Chris, @justjoseph63 is working on your review . I think there's nothing pending.
  18. Hi Merlin. I'm the D.O. making your review, sorry for delaying but I had some issues with my pc. In order to continue I will need you to do a couple of small fixes and add a some additional photos please. 1- As the Crl states for L2, Any gap between the abdomen and kidney armor is no more than 1/2" (12.5mm) wide. Your left (ab/kidney) section is perfect with no gap, but looking at the left one, It will be a bit tedious , but we need you to suit up and take some new pics (both sides) with your belt or strapping tightened a bit to close that gap some. It doesn't have to be EXACTLY half an inch (or less) THANKS! Reference Image 2- Required for L2 is the ABS belt button covers- they should be square, not rounded off on the corners. It looks like you used E-6000 to attach them so I think this should be a pretty easy fix for you brother. Reference Last easy fix brother . Looking at your nice looking E-11 blaster, specially that real Sterling magazine (nice touch) , we noticed some printing lines and as the Crl states for level 2 "3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance." So we'll need you to take some minutes to give another touch with some Bondo glazing putty and a bit of sanding. Finally, please add the following photos: A- Photo of your Thigh ammo pack inner sides to check the rivets type. (both sides) example B- Photo of your Left side AB/Kidney connection without canvas belt to check the 6 rivets position. C- Photo of your TD showing the metal clips and screws. Thank you .
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