husky68

Looks great, wish my bucket could look like that but then my head would never fit inside.

Congrats Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Best of luck, looks sharp. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For cover strips I used metal ruler and box cutter to score/snap. Leaving a tiny extra for sanding. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks good, reminded me that I should blacken the inside of my bucket.

My bad, didn't see this was Hero. Sorry.

For lvl 2 you need the ears to have three screws and four bumps. You might be able to buy some new ears and swap them out. Best of luck.

For the belt first make sure the length is correct. Right over left in back and not extending too far. Check some of the walk through threads for snap placement. You want belt slightly over ab button panel and centered. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There is no standard for the grey used for the TD. With the end caps, button panel and proper positioning there will only be a small amount of grey visible. So your paint should be fine. The ab buttons are more visible do you might want to clean them up. Thin layers of paint and clean up edges can make them sharper. Some people use a stencil or other type of guide. Mine are stickers so I took easy way out. As long as some of button is not painted, leaving even slight ridge, you will be fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Size was an issue for most of my build so I appreciate the consideration. I would like to say thanks to justjoseph63, Sha Sha and all the other members of FISD whom have been there to answer questions and provide advice along this journey.

Return edges can look great but add rigidity to the plastic which can lead to stress fractures and cracks. Best to clean up that line. Check this thread on return edges.

I've looked at the belt and the left side seemed fine but the right needed to be moved over more than possible. So I cut a piece out so the elastic would stretch further to the end and align the drop box.

I should have also thanked you for the quick review. To get the boxes that tiny bit closer I will have to make a cut out a chunk or fold the elastic between the belt and the abs because the rivet/screw that holds the two together gets in the way of the elastic. I'll then need to reposition and add glue.

The picture does look close but it's really a case of, "so close but yet so far" because my shoulders are just too wide for these bells. They already put strain on the shoulder strap which I try to reduce by pulled the chest/back down to tighten it as much as possible. Any shorter and I am sure the strap underneath will be visible under the abs strap. I'll try again with a shorter strap but honestly I think it will require the purchase of new bells from a different maker which might give a color difference.

Missing pictures from first post. Including various angles and lighting for the panel buttons because for AP sets with the stickers it is always something of contention with applications. I have seen and if needed will try to provide reference shots that show similar button size used.

Name = Robert BTK ID = 77712Garrison/Squad = Japanese GarrisonForum Name = Husky68 Armor = Authentic Props Helmet = Authentic Props Blaster= 3D printed Optional Height = 5' 10" Weight = 96kg Boots = Imperial Boots Ammo belt = Authentic Props Canvas belt = Authentic Props Holster = Authentic Props Hand Plates = latex, Authentic Props Electronics = iComm, UKSWrath Amp, UKSWrath Hovi Tips Neck Seal = Trooperbay Link to EIB:

Congratulations Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are the drop boxes lined up to the end of the belt of just to the corner cut edge? Should be end of belt I think. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Right over left I think. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just a suggestion, no real rule to this, but I might start with biceps. They are relatively simple and mistakes will not be seen much. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congratulations fellow AP wearer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From EIB review, I have adjusted the TD clips to rotate tube so that the bar and circle are level and visible. So what I did was cut between the two current holes and rotate the tube down. Then drilled new holes in the clips and TD and fastened it in place. I know there could be a few bends in the back of the clips to angle it in then out, but will leave that for another day.

Let’s have a look with some pictures Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It was pointed out after I started trooping that the lenses in my helmet, although correct, were allowing people to see my eyes inside. I might get to painting the inside of the helmet black but in the short term I wanted to trim the lenses down and add some mesh. Previously just had the one sheet of film taped on either side. I used some leftover chicago screws and magnets to attach the lense. Took a while to experiment with sizes and mounting to not leave any visible gap but maybe allow some airflow. Next I was given some mesh from JG member FarEast, it provides good blocking of eyes but only slightly darkens view. Cutting out the matching shape was easy enough, but bending the mesh to fit the mound and eye openings was really hard. Several attempts and ended up with not a perfect fit but close enough.

I put my mesh in with E6000, just on sides and let the middle hang free. Never had an issue with it but even months later notice it is still a little sticky. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk