husky68

Looking forward to seeing another AP armor in the making.

You can clean up the top of the biceps by removing the return edge, also the smaller they are the easier it is to close gap between bell and chest. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

3D printed blaster have improved with new free plans available for download. See my signature for link to 3D build and later comments for newest plans. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome to the forums. Best place to start is some of the basic advice threads. Also take a close look at the CRL images and text. For basic you will need to match those requirements. In the ANH build threads check some of the pinned threads especially from Ukswrath. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Usual warning on label but reasonably safe to use. I tried to limit how much I used it indoors and skin contact but when caught few drops on me or smelled it didn't effeerrct mmemee me atts alls.

You can try Methylene Chloride ( dichloro methane ), it works like Acetone on ABS and will melt and smooth the PLA. I used it on my blaster to both weld pieces together and to smooth out print lines.

Looks great, sorry but I am not familiar enough with FOTK to comment otherwise. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congrats Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s about 0.6 kg, pretty light compared to others I have seen on troops. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Final pictures of my blaster. A few minor things that I might work on later is putting cover over numbers in counter and some kind of lens in sight.

Great to see another AP in the works. The community here is great and will offer a lot of support and advice. While it appears you are a much taller and large men that myself I can relate to your issues and can be seen in my poorly organized build log. Thankfully I was able to avoid shimming my thighs, shins and forearms ( barely ) by using a gap and filling it with scrap abs. My cover strips are still within range of Centurion if I ever get my sniper knee to align enough. Working now to improve my should bells but there is a chance I will need to buy a larger set from Walt at WTF. I'm still green but I can offer some advice from my limited experience. This advice should not be followed unless a more seasoned member can verify. The gap between thighs and ab is not ideal but I don't think it will stop you from basic approval. I can see the shim in the back of the thighs putting the cover strips at weird angles. Maybe taking a little from the back to raise them up would help. Also, remove all return edges as suggested in post from justjoseph63. It is a requirement to have chest plate overlap the ab plate, so if this can't be done you are going to be stuck. Purchasing a larger chestplate is possible and would help down the road with should bell gap. In a drastic step, you could squeeze out a few more mm or cm by adding a shim under the belt but would want to keep proper position of the belt under the ab plate buttons. I've seen this kind of cut done to help shorter troopers shorten the ab but maybe could help you with both upper overlap and thigh gap. I'll be honest, I'm very happy with AP product and support with many compliments on helmet design from others. Mark's molds can accommodate most larger waist sizes but can be a challenge in other areas for larger troopers. I still recommend AP to those that ask about where to start but caution them if they are larger than me about building to fit.

Working on placement with as much references as I can get. Started with the rail and rear sight, had to cut down the rail from a different plan to work with this plan. Then adding scope and counter trying to match the blueprint image from e-11 reference thread. Placement of the clip was also a concern and from images hard to exactly tell, although I know it would feet into the barrel a certain spot on a real SMG. Then placement of the handle seemed straight forward but saw a little bit of variance in sources. Hoped that my placement would be good. Adding all the final small pieces and smoothing out print lines leaves the blaster ready to paint. I decide to fix the bolt in place and have the whole blaster static, maybe my next one will be fancier with working selector and sprint. And finally late at night in the bike parking space I hit the blaster with the first light layer of spray paint. It makes an amazing transformation from white to black and goes from plastic to Rebel nightmare in seconds. Leaving it to dry overnight in the morning I can see some missed spots and will keep hitting it with light layers until it is ready for trooping. Once the layers are all done and the end cap with spring added I will post a review.

The files I had printed lacked some detail and the recently mentioned upload by Trooper96 makes me feel this will only be my first blaster. Given some details are already lacking, my next blaster I will aim to be more accurate to the originals. I'll do the best I can with what I have and improve with the next one.

Chemical welded but not a lot of contact. I was just going to hit all of it with same black spray. Why? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Put in some more work on my blaster, need to have it finished for the 22nd when I go to my first troop at Tokyo Comic-Con. Made the folding stock a solid piece. Used pin for positioning and set the back pivot point. This is best to give me a reference of locating other parts. Testing the t-rail placement Installed the rest of them Also put on the flash guard I've found a new set of 3D parts from Trooper96, the detail looks amazing and might need to be a future project. It was uploaded in July which is months after my parts were finished and delivered. I'm having a friend print a new scope rail, front sight and rear sight for me from this plan.

Problem solved. Thank You.

Will check when I get home. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Brian. I have limited access via Tapatalk but hard to use. Had a reply to PM from Chris ( themaninthesuitcase) but issue persists as of few hours ago. I was trying to change my email to [email protected]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m having the same issue trying to change my email. I’ve tried gmail and hotmail. Only have access via tapatalk now. I will PM as above and hope it will be ok to do so. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Received my orders to report to Japanese Garrison for the glory of the Empire. First troop will be Tokyo Comic-Con starting November 22nd.

https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=31441 TK-77712 - reporting for duty.

Requesting access https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=31441 TK-77712

First I would like to thank you for this thread, as my armor is new I am still concerned with every scratch and mark like a new car or pair of shoes. Removing the return edges seems to be good preventative measures to reduce future issues. Is there any exceptions or considerations for reaching higher levels when removing return edges? Without return edges I wonder if some parts will lose their shape, like the one image of a shoulder bell above that seems a bit warped?

Cleaning up parts and putting some of them together. Using chemical bonding is both instant and almost irreversible so taking my time with everything. I made the trigger static, but to make it more solid. The D-ring is not connected and can swing freely. Will need to carefully paint it so it does not get stuck. I will likely try to put my TK number in the counter, already have a number plate to cut and place inside. The mag needs to be sanded down a little more to fit inside, but should't be a problem.

GML approved last week, still waiting for LMO to assign TK.