husky68

Thanks for the feedback. The left side was a bit tedious with effort to get around the rivets. To do it all over again, or for the first time in your case, I might consider just building up around the rivets then making it simpler and larger like my right side. would require few more mm of space but perhaps worth it. Also I would install the rivets first, I spent a lot of time and care to leave proper space for them to be installed later which seemed backwards to me now. I had designed a position locking system but never put it in as friction seemed enough to hold it in place. Only once or twice has a side come loose so adding a lock might be a future modification. PM me is you want to discuss.

Moving forward with some suggestions, touched up my paint on bucket and added a layer of gloss to make it shine a bit more. Clean up the teeth a bit more and added gloss.

Great improvement. If I can offer two cents, not sure if required for basic but further improvements. The biceps could move a little more up or I would try to strap them to sit more straight. They give a off balanced look from the photo. I’m curious about the right side ab/kidney as it has a sharp point? It normally is level like your left side. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I pulled my armor up till I thought it was high enough in “the cod” but after a bit of trooping I find myself always pulling it up a bit more. So you can probably raise it a bit more than you think as suggested. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Shoulder straps needs to be curved down and biceps could be raised up.

Thank you very much, I am very happy to have EIB. I appreciate all the effort in making detailed suggestions. It will help me improve my armor even further. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You might want some more room at the wrists, biceps could be higher. Should get the hand guards on to get a sense of spacing. Holding blaster and raising it up will need some space at the wrist. It all feels much different after getting the arms all strapped up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't realize that I stopped updating this build log as I pushed for membership. From the last picture I see the old lock for shins which just did not hold because of the tension and force pulling glued stips off. So I switched to a slot lock much like the ab/kidney. I put double hooks on right shin and a single hook on the left as an experiment. This proved that making the two hooks was harder to stay glued down but holds the shin more firmly with less shifting. Both work so have not replaced the single with the double design yet. Also it appears I never shared the right side slot lock of the ab/kidney which was much simpler not having to work around the rivets.

Additional photos

My calves prevented from closing the shins so I made a lock system and covered the gap with cover strip of required size for lvl 3. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Any mobility cuts on back of piece do not go past raised ridges. Although not a mobility cut I believe with the height of the cover strip I would not be below the raised ridge and for EIB this might be acceptable? I'd prefer not to build fake ridges unless absolutely required. This is an easy fix, will get this done and post new pictures.

Mandatory Information Name = Robert B TK ID = 77712 Legion Profile = https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=31441 Garrison/Squad = Japanese Garrison Forum Name = Husky68 Armor = Authentic Props Helmet = Authentic Props Blaster= 3D printed Optional Height = 5' 10" Weight = 96kg Boots = Imperial Boots Ammo belt = Authentic Props Canvas belt = Authentic Props Holster = Authentic Props Hand Plates = latex, Authentic Props Electronics = iComm, UKSWrath Amp, UKSWrath Hovi Tips Neck Seal = Trooperbay

We build armor to look best but remember that if you plan to troop it needs to be very functional. Tucking in might not be a working solution. Although whatever works for you and can be approved for basic is fine too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Many others make a opening and an insert on the sides, usually the right side, that keeps ab and kidney aligned. My own design just adds some hooks to make it lock in place. Although I would not want too much stress on these abs pieces as they are only glued on. Hot water bath it improve the curve and alignment first would help reduce stress and make it last longer.

Hail to the king Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I align at bottom and trim at top, but just my approach not required. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Snap quality can vary, I have great ones and good ones. In a pinch you can add some glue but that is a temporary quick fix. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All TK’s welcome and others too of course. Happy Trooping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In the end any blaster can break as resin and even metal ones are not indestructible. Perhaps an advantage for 3D prints is an increase of accuracy, ability to print replacement parts and the decrease of printer costs. It is possible to increase the infill or print with other materials like ABS and PETG which may affect durability. With chemical welding mine is pretty solid but expecting one day something will happen that will require repair or replacement.

Nothing specific in the CRL, I’d consider a few centurion examples and cut small increments until you are happy. Check occasionally with your GML. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure on the gap, just need the sniper knee to be in front of thigh armor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Remember to keep sniper knee from getting behind thigh armor. Some add padding to back of thigh armor so it stays closer in the front. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well this makes me feel slow. Ha ha. Given my issues with larger limbs I was on and off for 7 months to finish my build. I've heard others take as much as 2 years with BBB returning to a closet often. It's best to see each small task as an accomplishment and eventually you will have enough done for your basic application. Then there is just the constant repair and improvement which is less pressure than finishing the build.

Below may not be consideration for basic but just some notes for future improvements. Arms will look better with small adjustment to spacing to even out the balance a little more. Some space between forearm and hand guard will save rubbing and damage to hand guard from posing with blaster, mine started to rip soon after started trooping. You could consider reducing the bottom of the bicep and forearms to give a more tapered look.. Opening at the bottom should be just big enough for your arm/hand to pass through with all return edge removed. After some trooping I decided to increase the overlap of my chest and ab pieces, when moving and posing I found the chest plate to raise too much and lose the overlap. It looks like you could lower your chest piece for the same purpose and give you a bit of space around your neck. It's helpful to always check back to CRL, my advice is from limited personal experience.

You can compare to the CRL but you want all the back pieces to be together with minimal gap. With the ab connected to kidney that might set the height of your butt plate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had the same issues with my forearms, added a V gap and was able to keep cover strips within centurion ranges. Also a hot bath with boiling water to reshape helped a lot, careful not to burn yourself or get armor too soft. If you have any questions you can ask them here or PM me. That sniper knee placement looks great, many hope Mark will make a post or video to help us with keeping it center and level.