husky68

With many minor tweaks and changes still to be made, my armor is in a reasonable shape to make my application for basic. Improvements and maintenance appear to be an never ending journey as I speak with local garrison members. At this point I hope to become a member in time for the Tokyo Comic-Con coming up in November. INFORMATION: 1. Robert Blatherwick 2. Japan Garrison 3. Armor maker - Authentic Props 4. Helmet maker - Authentic Props 5. Cloth belt maker - Authentic Props 6. Neck seal maker - trooperbay 7. Boot maker - Imperial Boots 8. Height 5' 10" 12. weight 96kg 13. TK type - ANH Stunt 14. Name(s) of any Trooper(s) who significantly helped with your build. @Bulldog44 , @Two, @FarEast , @p4ntb0y and many other local members. An obvious point of note is the back of the abs shoulder strap, I will be trimming off the larger end section and possibly reshaping a bit more. After basic approval I will be improving/upgrading for an EIB application.

Long weekend with a earthquake and a typhoon seems like a good time to stay home and work on my armor. With the issue of shins being too small I had to open up the whole shin and start over. Finished up the front adding a larger gap to get more room in the back (hopefully). The drop boxes needed improvement, so I used the extra Chicago screws to make drop box removable. From previous pictures it looked like my butt plate was too loose and floating a bit. So I moved the snap points out and added a middle strap of nylon instead of elastic. To close the back of the shin I needed something with a gap and not wanting to add a bunch of extra abs for support. The simplest approach seems to be using a baseball cap snap to hold the spacing and leave a gap that is close to 25mm. Will see how it works out, likely to still be a bit tight.

With my armor getting closer to completion and the upcoming Tokyo Comic-Con I decided to return to the blaster project. Got a chance to meet up with Brian (Bulldog44) and spent a couple hours cleaning and chemical welding some of the parts together. There was one piece that must have been warped by the Tokyo summer heat but thankfully a backup piece existed. Once more is done I will post up some additional pictures. The black scope in the picture is one of Brian's resin casted ones, the scale and detail of the 3D printed one is clearly not as fine from the plans I used.

Attempts to fix up the right shin led to a new design. Overlap making a grove to put one side into the other. This was in hope to help with the misalignment. Sadly the tension combined with super tight fit around my calf made this design fail. Looked nice before I tried putting it on my leg. But you can see below that the alignment and shape of each side combined with pressure to get around my calf, proved too much. Hot bath and steam in the past did little to sort this out. I've gotten some tips from Cricket and with some new gloves hope to give it another go.

http://www.starwarsunderworld.com/2019/09/here-is-all-rise-of-skywalker.html?m=1 Supposedly all toys being released. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would also like to see a video on AP sniper knee installment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The right shin ( apparently they are greaves in the CRL ) should open to the inside of the leg. "The cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg. " The small button plate on ab needs to be trimmed down to show edges of ab mounting point under it. The butt plate needs to be lined up with the kidney, looks like it is just floating there. Maybe clean up the fraid end of the belt, ideally it would not go too much past the TD edge. The elastics for your drop boxes needs to go behind the belt. Is there a snap or something metal on the belt in the back photo?

Additional work last week, then on the long weekend Bulldog44 came into Tokyo to help with some additional building and take some photos. First placement of sniper knee, like every AP armor kit the sniper knee needs to be off center to be level and still I am not happy with the alignment on the sides. Finished up the ab plates and buttons. Attached the thigh ammo belt with rivets, forgot to paint them so will get to that. While in Canada I purchased the suggested super glue and it worked like a charm. There is still some strapping to be done on the arms to keep them in position. See below for painting those rivets. This is the telling photo, the right shin did not hold and will need a redo or new approach. Also noticed for the first time the TS clips were too long. Next day cut the AP provided TD clips down to screen accurate length, will need to add some bends into it as well. Painted the side rivets and helmet screws, forgot the thigh ammo belt rivets so paint will come out again. So the work continues but that mountain top is in sight.

Bought some Chicago screws from online and must say I think they look much better than rivets. Added bonus makes the abs remove-able from the belt. I didn't remove the other rivets, they were put in much better than the one that failed, but know if they eventually fail I can replace them easily. Maybe down the road will swap them out.

So rivet on belt popped while I was getting ready to put the small covers on it. Not a fan of the rivets and best it popped now than on a troop. Need to find a source for the Chicago screws because they seem to be same size as rivets and might be a better replacement.

Looking great. You could trim the ends of your shoulder straps but should not stop you from getting your number. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The back of my thighs are the same with the ridges from each side being of different angles and depths. So It would require reshaping the ridge to make them line up perfectly which is likely a challenge. You can cut the ridges out of the back of thighs as shown in screen grabs from movie, I might do this but it's a decision for later. The CRL does not restrict this for thighs but for shins at lvl 3, "Any mobility cuts on back of piece do not go past raised ridges".

From those and so many other photos and other forum posts I can see this is not an area that is absolute. Some members and screen used helmets have grey extended past uncut tooth, with that uncut tooth either cleared or painted over. Others just taper off after the last cut tooth and don't extend that far. The CRL is not specific so it seems to be owners choice and fine as long as some screen used reference can be cited.

Added some more grey, XS-66. Please comment if I should bring it back a bit because I went as far as seemed possible. I also welcome any comments on the ears, thin out the black maybe but seem proportionate with the decals and at some angles seems fine.

I did think the grey was too flat but as the paint was recommended thought it might be ok, hopefully easy enough to shine it up with some semi-gloss. I've seen the examples of uncut tooth and paint going past it. I kinda like the way it is but since I have to break out the paint anyway for gloss might as well extend the frown.

Trying to finish up the outside of the helmet with stickers and paint all in place.

To make my larger limbs fit in my AP kit I had to put in V gaps, filling the gap with spare scraps and keeping cover strips within normal widths. Currently battling with shins which I hope will not have to add a shim. The reference image of TD shared above is a nice screen used one but if you check the CRL it does mention a length of 190.5mm and that image is 184mm. It's a small difference and I would hope no one would call you out on it by breaking out a ruler on you. I used that image as a guide and just adjusted the middle to make the length 190.5mm. I've seen a reference image at 190.5mm but don't know where it is now.

Trying to build my motivation back up. Yesterday went out to a store called Tokyu Hands and bought some tools. Today decided to get past my nerves and took out the paint materials I bought months ago. Took a deep breath and started painting. After I finished painting I used a toothpick to clean up some of the lines and the odd spot of paint that got away from me.

Useful pdf file for putting together 3D printed blasters. ( Not my file ) https://www.dropbox.com/s/snajmo4wxtklq9w/E-11 BLASTER KIT INSTRUCTIONS.pdf?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/snajmo4wxtklq9w/E-11 BLASTER KIT INSTRUCTIONS.pdf?dl=0 If the above link works, it is a pdf for putting together a 3D printed blaster. I have a build log for my blaster as well, printed in PLA and using dichloromethane as a chemical weld. Once my armor is finished I will return to working on the blaster.

Yeah, that is taped up pretty tight with that gap, maybe get it closer to 20mm on right opening up the bottom. Might have to get someone to come by to give me a hand or take them to an armor party. Thinking I will move on with other sections and return to this when I can get another set of eyes and hands.

Put on the pants and boots and slipped on the shins. Does not look as bad as expected but does seem complicated. So the angle is still required in a V ( much like forearms and thighs ) to fit my shins. Seems the left gap is only 13mm while the right gets up to around 25mm, odd as both calves are relatively the same. Is the bottom near the ankle supposed to be as tight and fit as shown? If so I will need to trim some away. The difficulty of measuring while wearing and likely trickiness of making these fit might be part of my lack of motivation since my return from vacation. Jetlag is almost gone and rain keeping me inside.

[quote I actually thought of you when I bought it. LOL The next time you're back in Canada, check Home Depot. The one I checked was sold out. Next trip might be in 2 years unless I can find someone to bring it to Japan. Your graphics are great and would hope to do something similar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried to find one of those boxes while on vacation in Canada and had no luck. Don’t think they sell them in Japan. Really only want it because it is “Husky”. He he Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Returned from my trip to find new packages waiting for me. These boots look great and require a good hard pull to get on. The length seems long but they are pointed boots and the width is perfect so a smaller size would not have worked. These elastics are sent from JP Garrison member Dan, TK52394. They are doubled up and machine stitched making them perfect for my issues with shoulder bells. Much appreciated and looking forward to trooping with him. My armor has been kept inside and cooler than the patio outside in the Tokyo burning summer where I normally keep it. I'll likely pull it out this weekend and get back to work on it, attempting a tricky shim on the shins to make them fit better.