husky68

Looking great. You could trim the ends of your shoulder straps but should not stop you from getting your number. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The back of my thighs are the same with the ridges from each side being of different angles and depths. So It would require reshaping the ridge to make them line up perfectly which is likely a challenge. You can cut the ridges out of the back of thighs as shown in screen grabs from movie, I might do this but it's a decision for later. The CRL does not restrict this for thighs but for shins at lvl 3, "Any mobility cuts on back of piece do not go past raised ridges".

From those and so many other photos and other forum posts I can see this is not an area that is absolute. Some members and screen used helmets have grey extended past uncut tooth, with that uncut tooth either cleared or painted over. Others just taper off after the last cut tooth and don't extend that far. The CRL is not specific so it seems to be owners choice and fine as long as some screen used reference can be cited.

Added some more grey, XS-66. Please comment if I should bring it back a bit because I went as far as seemed possible. I also welcome any comments on the ears, thin out the black maybe but seem proportionate with the decals and at some angles seems fine.

I did think the grey was too flat but as the paint was recommended thought it might be ok, hopefully easy enough to shine it up with some semi-gloss. I've seen the examples of uncut tooth and paint going past it. I kinda like the way it is but since I have to break out the paint anyway for gloss might as well extend the frown.

Trying to finish up the outside of the helmet with stickers and paint all in place.

To make my larger limbs fit in my AP kit I had to put in V gaps, filling the gap with spare scraps and keeping cover strips within normal widths. Currently battling with shins which I hope will not have to add a shim. The reference image of TD shared above is a nice screen used one but if you check the CRL it does mention a length of 190.5mm and that image is 184mm. It's a small difference and I would hope no one would call you out on it by breaking out a ruler on you. I used that image as a guide and just adjusted the middle to make the length 190.5mm. I've seen a reference image at 190.5mm but don't know where it is now.

Trying to build my motivation back up. Yesterday went out to a store called Tokyu Hands and bought some tools. Today decided to get past my nerves and took out the paint materials I bought months ago. Took a deep breath and started painting. After I finished painting I used a toothpick to clean up some of the lines and the odd spot of paint that got away from me.

Useful pdf file for putting together 3D printed blasters. ( Not my file ) https://www.dropbox.com/s/snajmo4wxtklq9w/E-11 BLASTER KIT INSTRUCTIONS.pdf?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/snajmo4wxtklq9w/E-11 BLASTER KIT INSTRUCTIONS.pdf?dl=0 If the above link works, it is a pdf for putting together a 3D printed blaster. I have a build log for my blaster as well, printed in PLA and using dichloromethane as a chemical weld. Once my armor is finished I will return to working on the blaster.

Yeah, that is taped up pretty tight with that gap, maybe get it closer to 20mm on right opening up the bottom. Might have to get someone to come by to give me a hand or take them to an armor party. Thinking I will move on with other sections and return to this when I can get another set of eyes and hands.

Put on the pants and boots and slipped on the shins. Does not look as bad as expected but does seem complicated. So the angle is still required in a V ( much like forearms and thighs ) to fit my shins. Seems the left gap is only 13mm while the right gets up to around 25mm, odd as both calves are relatively the same. Is the bottom near the ankle supposed to be as tight and fit as shown? If so I will need to trim some away. The difficulty of measuring while wearing and likely trickiness of making these fit might be part of my lack of motivation since my return from vacation. Jetlag is almost gone and rain keeping me inside.

[quote I actually thought of you when I bought it. LOL The next time you're back in Canada, check Home Depot. The one I checked was sold out. Next trip might be in 2 years unless I can find someone to bring it to Japan. Your graphics are great and would hope to do something similar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I tried to find one of those boxes while on vacation in Canada and had no luck. Don’t think they sell them in Japan. Really only want it because it is “Husky”. He he Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Returned from my trip to find new packages waiting for me. These boots look great and require a good hard pull to get on. The length seems long but they are pointed boots and the width is perfect so a smaller size would not have worked. These elastics are sent from JP Garrison member Dan, TK52394. They are doubled up and machine stitched making them perfect for my issues with shoulder bells. Much appreciated and looking forward to trooping with him. My armor has been kept inside and cooler than the patio outside in the Tokyo burning summer where I normally keep it. I'll likely pull it out this weekend and get back to work on it, attempting a tricky shim on the shins to make them fit better.

Heading off on vacation for a few weeks so build will be put on hold. Took some pictures to show my progress to friends while visiting. So much done and so much remains, feels like a mountain that I will never reach the summit until that day that I realize I am there. Enjoy your summer everyone.

Get your orders in today, 3 month waiting period, honest. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Needs some around the boots. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

More action with the ultrasonic cutter, cleaning up cover strips and will need to sand them down. I like the straight look but open to suggestions.

Those looks great. How did you know it was my birthday?

I was also able to borrow a ultrasonic cutter from one of the local members. Anyone that makes a lot of armor should consider buying one, cuts abs like a hot knife through butter. I trimmed some of my cover strips and got my drop boxes down to the recommended sizes.

On Saturday there was a local armor party which I am always happy to join. This time I asked for help with making my belt, which seemed daunting to me as it involved punching holes in my belt and armor. We started by setting the snaps into my armor for the butt and kidney sections, holes already drilled by Mark at AP. Then we adjusted the belt to sit at the back with proper overlap and maybe some room to expand along with my weight if needed. Following advice from wook1138, I changed the snap location measurement from 59mm to 40mm which seemed much better for alignment on AP armor. I took the nervous step of punching the holes into the belt and using tape with pencil rubbing combined with some extra pencil markings I found the right spot to set snaps into the belt. Then I put the center hole into the belt and lined it up with my center mark. Using a members rivet gun I nervously locked the abs to the belt, the rivets did not come out too clean but they should hold well enough and will be covered with those dome caps. I was also reminded to give the belt a natural bend when placing the side rivets so the belt when worn would not be under extra stress. The position is good but I would have ideally wanted it a fraction higher on the button panel. If this becomes a problem I might consider using a magnet as seen in Simes's ANH TK Build to get it up that last little bit. Also the photo angle is slightly from above, so a more straight on shoot might look better aligned.

I've been working on the side connection between ab and kidney. Not wanting to put any stress on the rivets I looked for a method not using them. I decided to try something different making a locking system with my 2mm abs strips. Difficult to cut and shown to others comments were surprise and concern over durability. I will likely add to the thickness and increase the holding section which should give enough strength. I even have design for a sliding locking pin to include a magnet for movement, so this is not the finished product.

This was suggested to me from a Japan Garrison member.

Work continues.. Still debating what to do in the back, velcro or magnets, and how to deal with the additional V gap I will need to add.