fishgoh0nk

Thanks for putting together a most comprehensive Anovos build guide- it was educational as it was inspiring!

Funny, this dressing video was probably one of the first 10 videos I watched immediately after ordering the armor. It's like I've finally come full circle. I can do everything minus putting on a shoulder bell after the first shoulder bell has been donned. I think I might need to alter the method, I notice he's raising his elbow high for chestplate clearance. Let me give that shot.

Thanks! And yes I did - those are trooper bay ears on an Anovos bucket. The HOVI tips are from Ukswrath speaker system. Thanks for the tip about the holster and the belt ammo box! Let me put some velcro on right now actually

Yea, one of the troubles I have is getting dressed solo; reaching across my chest or attempts to bring my elbows closer to the center of my body causes the bell to contact my body. I did not attempt to cut any more material off the bells in fear of creating too much gap between it and the chestplate. I'll do some more calisthenics in the suit and see what can be done and where it contacts, but from the reference you provided, the cuts would be made as such?

Same with the fans; given the shoulder bell strapping, I don't think there's anywhere on the lower half of the bucket I can reach. I can definitely reach the temples to take off the helmet. I wonder how much can I take off from either the bicep or forearm before it affects approval?

How about mobility for upper body, specifically arms to head? I have some voice controls in my helmet that are extremely hard to reach as the bicep contacts the forearm, making the bend in the arm to touch my chin area extremely difficult. Anyone else have this problem, possibly solutions?

Here's the new frown.

While I work on taking a bit more paint off the frown, here's a close up of the Han snap.

Name: James Username: fishgoh0nk TK-83751 Southern California Garrison Orange County Squad Armor Maker = ANOVOS Helmet Maker = ANOVOS Blaster Type = S&T E-11 (Airsoft) Height = 5'11 Weight = 200lbs Boot Maker = Imperial Boots Canvas Belt = @TKittell belt Hand Plates = @justjoseph63 silicone handguards Electronics = Raspberry PI Zero W, iComm, Aker amp, @ukswrath SHA hearing assist, quad fans Neck Seal Type = ANOVOS Holster Maker = ANOVOS Full Body Front Back Right Right Raised Left Left Raised Bang Bang Bang Details Right Left (paint chipped when wearing, will touch up) Helmet Front Left Right Back Lens color HOVIs & Vocoder S Trim Armor Armor Strapping Arm strapping Forearm wrist returns Cod Elastic Elastic shoulder ties Ab button panel 1 Ab button panel 2 Thigh ammo Left Thigh ammo right Sniper knee Belt Accessories Neck seal Gloves Boots Thermal detonator E-11

Oops my bad!

Maybe someone here can suggest a foam insert to fill up the suit or wear the belt more loosely. I encountered this same problem with the overlap - I realized my waist is actually quite small for my stature. As I did not want to increase my daily calorie intake to fill up the suit, I ended up actually trimming off an inch of ab material to make the suit form fitting and no overlap. I wear my belt to the full tightness, and now that there's no overlap. Unfortunately, I didn't trim it until AFTER mounting the right ab snap; lesson learned. I'm not necessarily advising this to be done; but be mindful if you do, significant ABS work may need to be done to shift the snap. Overlap at form fitting tightness After trim Ab snap rework

Congrats! I think the dedication to the art by this community makes me proud to be a part of it.

I'll ping you once I get another blaster going - this is my only blaster and I got some troops coming up And gotta go break some piggy banks, seems like I'm going for the Fieldmarshall/Warmachine kit. Subject to change? LOL

So theoretically... while I build a new Centurion blaster, I could try for EI with my current S&T? Either way, good news for R1 guys, expect a modified S&T to be up soon in 501 marketplace (granted the powers that be don't axe the S&T airsoft from CRL o_O)

Ahead of 'ya! I couldn't do that to the ANOVOS bucket ones, they were already too thin, any thinner and I can't fit the hearing assist mics into the ears. But for the new trooper bay ones, I took that into account

Following, I'm also in the same boat, seems like after the pandemic, DoopyDoo's is backed up and I'm looking for options. I was thinking SDS, but looking at the photos, it's not clean enough to work on. I'm thinking last ditch effort is just ordering 3d printed parts from Shapeways and constructing from scratch.

Looks good! Your mic panel looks a lot cleaner than mine; I had problems getting the ANOVOS-cut ears to sit flush with the inner panels inside; they way too thin. So I just cut and trimmed the panels until they fit... Still not flush so I got some new trooper bay ones, cut and painted, just waiting for my paint jobs to dry, then drill the mic holes and remount.

I like it!

What's kind of adjuster clip? Got a picture to share?

Is this superior to the bracket system? I'm thinking about replacing them because the chest piece easily climbs to try and choke me sometimes

Hot water is GTG, heat gun + novice = bad idea. I warped my ANOVOS bicep and had to purchase an ATA for replacement. Expensive lesson.

Ah, a fellow man of large thighs. I too had problems with the thighs and had to shim them. I'm still using the original cover strips, and don't regret it at all. If you have the capability to make a new thigh from scratch, that's probably ideal; I think the tricky part is the color matching. I had added original ABS trimmings to the back of the thighs to make for larger thighs. I ended up not being able to complete the thighs for over a year contemplating how I would make them look good. My flexible shims were made from NO Parking signs found at hardware stores, they were vinyl. I guess blinds would work, but they're more brittle. Using ABS to fill in the main material - Lesson learned here, depending on how you plan on filling the gaps, the thickness matters. If it's too thin, ABS paste will not flow into them and you are likely to end up with cracking, if they're too wide, they'll be largely visible. I ended up doing an airbrush paint blend after the fact, if your ABS paste is good looking and not bubbly like mine, you may not need to do anything. After many ABS pasting and bubble popping, the color still wasn't right - it was a lot darker than the ABS It doesn't look bad from afar, but I'm shooting for L3, so I wasn't satisified Painted - I have the ANOVOS formula in my build - Paint matching ANOVOS wasn't easy, but for your ATA, the white is a lot whiter and store bought premium white might be able to work. end product end product

Depending on how you do the strapping, you won't have the forearm "hanging", it'll be suspended by a velcro strap to the bicep. Be sure that inserting your hand is easy, the hardest part (most friction) of my suit is the forearms, I really have to touch all my fingers together to squeeze my hand through the front opening, then I have barely one finger to help me shove the rubber gloves into the forearm. If you're having some pretty tight tolerances, you can actually take all the return edges off from the forearms, they aren't required by the CRL. By doing this, you can minimize the fat forearm / Popeye / Megaman look while maintain the ability to wear them. Here's a picture of mine.

@justjoseph63 Yup, I'm going for ANH and currently have an S&T, modified per feedback in ANH specifications, everything you listed minus the grip. The grip is a bit difficult to change without destroying the airsoft functionality of the gun, because the airsoft motor resides in the grip. If I absolutely had to change the grip, I would opt to part ways with the S&T for someone going R1 rather than modding it, "I would sooner destroy a stained glass window than an artist like yourself" - Wesley (Princess Bride) I added longer TTracks, mounted a Chris Fieldmarshall M38 and moved the hengstler into position (rear foot of scope in light with stock hinge, hengstler logo in line with scop front foot), I also changed the power cylinder coils. I think the D-ring is slightly different and lastly, the grip. @TheRascalKingWow, you either lurk a lot or dug up my old posts quick Amazing recon into my E11 modifications. I'm assuming Joseph is implying it could pass approval if everything was modified, I'm asking how lenient would EI, maybe event Centurion approval be with the modifications I made. High quality resin blasters seem to be out of market, given DoopyDoos seems to have slowed, so I'm currently looking for sturdy, resilient L2/L3 passable options.

What are thoughts on Rogue One S&T blasters for EI / Centurion? CRL doesn't explicitly exclude the blaster, but for accuracy matters, it's not really accurate. Just asking before I begin my EI request and whether I'll need to begin another Cup Noodle diet