fishgoh0nk

Yup! Anytime I don't have to rewire, paint match, or resculpt something on the armor, I take it as a minor win. Restrapping is pretty low risk so I'm optimistic I realized I won't be break dancing in the suit, but I'm still questioning the suit's capabilities to reach the electronic switches in the chin of the helmet. Hopefully I don't have to move the switches, I like the bucket not being encumbered by wires to the torso. Wirefree is mobility.

Yea I learned that a month ago, but thought I could run with the way I had it. I think if I want more mobility as well, I might have to increase the bicep circumference a bit and maybe take a few more mm off the forearm top edge. I've been working out a lot during the pandemic...

I can try to illustrate. The image shown below is the left arm strapping, the velcro elastic that secures the bicep to the forearm is facing behind. The yellow lines represent my arm, the blue the armor, and the green the elastic strap and the red arrow the dominant pull of elastic. As I bend the elbow, the green elastic is stretched and begins to fight the bell to bicep strap, ultimately winning, causing more of a collision between forearm and bicep. Ross from RWA can demonstrate. As he bends his elbow, the elastic in green is lengthened.

I discovered that since the forearm to bicep strap is on the outside of the elbow, the bend is actually stretching, pulling my bicep down as the arm bends in the process. I can redo some of the elastic strapping to raise the bicep. Thanks for all the info. Needless to say, my mobility dreams have somewhat been quashed, better put away my cardboard mat and Adidas shoes.

I fear bringing up the bicep too high will squeeze the chestplate from the sides to bow in the front. I'm guessing this is actually a mobility cut so the inner bicep doesn't interfere with the torso? Would that need to be trimmed to accommodate it's ascension?

Yup, but do you keep it disconnected after you get in? Reaching down between the legs is not impossible, just not easy So I tried to reach my chin and other shoulder to put on the bell, the contact points are circled in red. Are there any approved methods to reduce the contact points within the green dotted lines I can make? I tried the forearm rotation, if I'm not wearing the compression under suit, it definitely pinches skin even at > 90 degree arm bend. If I wear the under suit, regardless of the rotation, I can only make it about 80 degrees of an arm bend, not enough to let me reach the other shoulder or touch my face.

LOL, the RWA video makes it seem so effortless, my thighs are too big to step into a snapped cod piece armor, so I have to reach down there to secure it; I pull a pectoral muscle every time

Thanks for putting together a most comprehensive Anovos build guide- it was educational as it was inspiring!

Funny, this dressing video was probably one of the first 10 videos I watched immediately after ordering the armor. It's like I've finally come full circle. I can do everything minus putting on a shoulder bell after the first shoulder bell has been donned. I think I might need to alter the method, I notice he's raising his elbow high for chestplate clearance. Let me give that shot.

Thanks! And yes I did - those are trooper bay ears on an Anovos bucket. The HOVI tips are from Ukswrath speaker system. Thanks for the tip about the holster and the belt ammo box! Let me put some velcro on right now actually

Yea, one of the troubles I have is getting dressed solo; reaching across my chest or attempts to bring my elbows closer to the center of my body causes the bell to contact my body. I did not attempt to cut any more material off the bells in fear of creating too much gap between it and the chestplate. I'll do some more calisthenics in the suit and see what can be done and where it contacts, but from the reference you provided, the cuts would be made as such?

Same with the fans; given the shoulder bell strapping, I don't think there's anywhere on the lower half of the bucket I can reach. I can definitely reach the temples to take off the helmet. I wonder how much can I take off from either the bicep or forearm before it affects approval?

How about mobility for upper body, specifically arms to head? I have some voice controls in my helmet that are extremely hard to reach as the bicep contacts the forearm, making the bend in the arm to touch my chin area extremely difficult. Anyone else have this problem, possibly solutions?

Here's the new frown.

While I work on taking a bit more paint off the frown, here's a close up of the Han snap.

Name: James Username: fishgoh0nk TK-83751 Southern California Garrison Orange County Squad Armor Maker = ANOVOS Helmet Maker = ANOVOS Blaster Type = S&T E-11 (Airsoft) Height = 5'11 Weight = 200lbs Boot Maker = Imperial Boots Canvas Belt = @TKittell belt Hand Plates = @justjoseph63 silicone handguards Electronics = Raspberry PI Zero W, iComm, Aker amp, @ukswrath SHA hearing assist, quad fans Neck Seal Type = ANOVOS Holster Maker = ANOVOS Full Body Front Back Right Right Raised Left Left Raised Bang Bang Bang Details Right Left (paint chipped when wearing, will touch up) Helmet Front Left Right Back Lens color HOVIs & Vocoder S Trim Armor Armor Strapping Arm strapping Forearm wrist returns Cod Elastic Elastic shoulder ties Ab button panel 1 Ab button panel 2 Thigh ammo Left Thigh ammo right Sniper knee Belt Accessories Neck seal Gloves Boots Thermal detonator E-11

Oops my bad!

Maybe someone here can suggest a foam insert to fill up the suit or wear the belt more loosely. I encountered this same problem with the overlap - I realized my waist is actually quite small for my stature. As I did not want to increase my daily calorie intake to fill up the suit, I ended up actually trimming off an inch of ab material to make the suit form fitting and no overlap. I wear my belt to the full tightness, and now that there's no overlap. Unfortunately, I didn't trim it until AFTER mounting the right ab snap; lesson learned. I'm not necessarily advising this to be done; but be mindful if you do, significant ABS work may need to be done to shift the snap. Overlap at form fitting tightness After trim Ab snap rework

Congrats! I think the dedication to the art by this community makes me proud to be a part of it.

I'll ping you once I get another blaster going - this is my only blaster and I got some troops coming up And gotta go break some piggy banks, seems like I'm going for the Fieldmarshall/Warmachine kit. Subject to change? LOL

So theoretically... while I build a new Centurion blaster, I could try for EI with my current S&T? Either way, good news for R1 guys, expect a modified S&T to be up soon in 501 marketplace (granted the powers that be don't axe the S&T airsoft from CRL o_O)

Ahead of 'ya! I couldn't do that to the ANOVOS bucket ones, they were already too thin, any thinner and I can't fit the hearing assist mics into the ears. But for the new trooper bay ones, I took that into account

Following, I'm also in the same boat, seems like after the pandemic, DoopyDoo's is backed up and I'm looking for options. I was thinking SDS, but looking at the photos, it's not clean enough to work on. I'm thinking last ditch effort is just ordering 3d printed parts from Shapeways and constructing from scratch.

Looks good! Your mic panel looks a lot cleaner than mine; I had problems getting the ANOVOS-cut ears to sit flush with the inner panels inside; they way too thin. So I just cut and trimmed the panels until they fit... Still not flush so I got some new trooper bay ones, cut and painted, just waiting for my paint jobs to dry, then drill the mic holes and remount.

I like it!