fishgoh0nk

What's kind of adjuster clip? Got a picture to share?

Is this superior to the bracket system? I'm thinking about replacing them because the chest piece easily climbs to try and choke me sometimes

Hot water is GTG, heat gun + novice = bad idea. I warped my ANOVOS bicep and had to purchase an ATA for replacement. Expensive lesson.

Ah, a fellow man of large thighs. I too had problems with the thighs and had to shim them. I'm still using the original cover strips, and don't regret it at all. If you have the capability to make a new thigh from scratch, that's probably ideal; I think the tricky part is the color matching. I had added original ABS trimmings to the back of the thighs to make for larger thighs. I ended up not being able to complete the thighs for over a year contemplating how I would make them look good. My flexible shims were made from NO Parking signs found at hardware stores, they were vinyl. I guess blinds would work, but they're more brittle. Using ABS to fill in the main material - Lesson learned here, depending on how you plan on filling the gaps, the thickness matters. If it's too thin, ABS paste will not flow into them and you are likely to end up with cracking, if they're too wide, they'll be largely visible. I ended up doing an airbrush paint blend after the fact, if your ABS paste is good looking and not bubbly like mine, you may not need to do anything. After many ABS pasting and bubble popping, the color still wasn't right - it was a lot darker than the ABS It doesn't look bad from afar, but I'm shooting for L3, so I wasn't satisified Painted - I have the ANOVOS formula in my build - Paint matching ANOVOS wasn't easy, but for your ATA, the white is a lot whiter and store bought premium white might be able to work. end product end product

Depending on how you do the strapping, you won't have the forearm "hanging", it'll be suspended by a velcro strap to the bicep. Be sure that inserting your hand is easy, the hardest part (most friction) of my suit is the forearms, I really have to touch all my fingers together to squeeze my hand through the front opening, then I have barely one finger to help me shove the rubber gloves into the forearm. If you're having some pretty tight tolerances, you can actually take all the return edges off from the forearms, they aren't required by the CRL. By doing this, you can minimize the fat forearm / Popeye / Megaman look while maintain the ability to wear them. Here's a picture of mine.

@justjoseph63 Yup, I'm going for ANH and currently have an S&T, modified per feedback in ANH specifications, everything you listed minus the grip. The grip is a bit difficult to change without destroying the airsoft functionality of the gun, because the airsoft motor resides in the grip. If I absolutely had to change the grip, I would opt to part ways with the S&T for someone going R1 rather than modding it, "I would sooner destroy a stained glass window than an artist like yourself" - Wesley (Princess Bride) I added longer TTracks, mounted a Chris Fieldmarshall M38 and moved the hengstler into position (rear foot of scope in light with stock hinge, hengstler logo in line with scop front foot), I also changed the power cylinder coils. I think the D-ring is slightly different and lastly, the grip. @TheRascalKingWow, you either lurk a lot or dug up my old posts quick Amazing recon into my E11 modifications. I'm assuming Joseph is implying it could pass approval if everything was modified, I'm asking how lenient would EI, maybe event Centurion approval be with the modifications I made. High quality resin blasters seem to be out of market, given DoopyDoos seems to have slowed, so I'm currently looking for sturdy, resilient L2/L3 passable options.

What are thoughts on Rogue One S&T blasters for EI / Centurion? CRL doesn't explicitly exclude the blaster, but for accuracy matters, it's not really accurate. Just asking before I begin my EI request and whether I'll need to begin another Cup Noodle diet

I spent about 16 hours matching Wicked / Createx airbrush paint for airbrush for ANOVOS ABS, it's almost perfect, but the shades vary at volume, so different volumes have a slightly different formula. If you're willing to undertake the process, make sure you have several light spectrums, (warm, blues, natural) on hand to verify the match.

I'm in! Thanks for all the help! For L2/L3, I updated the thermal detonator with new aluminum strips and smaller screws. How does this look? New vs Old, glad I ordered extra aluminum, bending them was a PITA My only fear is that the clips are too tall - I went by bondservant's instructions and figured I wanted the TD to sit in the middle of the belt rather than at the top. Is this OK? It's actually sitting a little below the equator, I can always role the TD's J bend upwards for a higher ride?

Got approved last week, requesting status update for 501st Stormtrooper TK-83751 reporting in! https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=33776

I did not, but it's probably because the headphones I'm using aren't loud enough. They're a $6.99 pair from Amazon by KOSS. In my initial testing I didn't account for that, I was using wired ear buds and had my fingers crossed regarding hearing assist feedback. My voice amplifier for the Aker did have feedback with the Hovi speakers, which I fixed with a -54dB noise canceling mic soldered into a ModMic 3 boom. -50dB noise canceling at mid line volume (mod mics have inline adjustment) gave me feedback from the Hovi speakers. Now I"m running -54dB at max line volume, but I basically have to touch the mic with my lips with no mic foam to get a pickup.

Haven't trooped with it yet - I only completed the hearing assist installation 2 days ago, in fact, I just completed the entire electronics set up 2 days ago. but I've been vehemently been walking around the house with it. With fans on, the hearing assist helps significantly with detecting my wife trying to talk to me. If I really want to shut her out, I'd just turn it off I could hear better if I wasn't using open air walkman style headphones (in ear or ear buds). In ear buds would be a lot louder and would help me attenuate the audio better, but I prefer the hands free approach so I don't have to shove ear buds in my head before plopping on the bucket. I've been taking off and putting back on the bucket and the earphones I'm currently using stay stationary. It's a rare occasion that the phones fold the top of my ear down, I just reach in and fix it. Here's one more photo of the grommet (old grommet sliced in half to reduce profile height, adheres to the velcro strip)

If you're curious, I'm probably one of the few people that drilled holes in the helmet to fit the mics. I drilled a 3/4 1/2 inch hole and used a grommet to secure the mic to the inner helmet wall. After posting here and adding insulation/baffles, the mics now reside inside the ear piece, outside of the inner helmet to avoid fan vibration, so I have fans mounted on the cheeks. Here are some pictures, albeit out of date. Planning, using grommets (again, not current method, mic installed with grommet) I figured it's best to show and tell - I took apart my current ear set up to show Foam padding is crucial between mic and ear, cut the vibration sounds by 25% This is what sits in the ear Used hand drills to drill out the ear ports along the black stripe. Per recommendation a superfine permanent marker/sharpie works good to black out the holes.

Fixed the issue - the microphones that come with the SHA works great once I added foam padding between the mic and helmet walls to prevent excessive vibration. I also created some baffles to isolate the microphones from the rest of the cavity, so there's minimal pressure loss/increase from ports other than the three I drill in the ears. So I have Helmet | Velcro (for internal speakers) | ( Rubber Grommet) | Foam | microphone enclosure | Foam around the enclosure | ears | 3x 1mm holes drilled I think after added the extra padding, the taper around the ears are no longer satisfactory, I ordered some new ears from trooper bay which I will install - I'll take some pictures of what I've done when I do that. Keep an eye out

Last week I added a Raspberry Pi to the electronics for soundboard options. Main cable stem is still a mess, but I guess I'll worry about that after I do an actual troop.

Thanks for the info - I think the fact the mics are omnidirectional and not encapsulated, the pressure and vibrations can't be helped by just glue/padding. I created a panel to isolate the microphones in the ears. Unfortunately the mics that come with the kit are a little too tall for this application - and I think the SNR is a little too low. I'm planning on modding them with unidirection/cardioids with a higher SNR and lower sensitivity. I don't have a reference or baseline for the current ones, @ukswrathwould you be willing to share the specs of the mics? If not public, maybe PM?

Hey Tony, I was testing the SHA with fans, but the mics appear to pick up a lot of inner helmet noise, and overwhelms the external sounds at distance (5-10ft). Would you recommend any sealings, padding around the mics to reduce the pickup? I have them installed at the ears, 3 holes drilled at the black ear stripe.

Moved the button - it's been there for 2 years and I didn't have the means to move it. Now I do and it wasn't so bad. The ABS paste definitely needs to be applied in layers. One big glob yielded bubbles and dark spot.... which I had to paint. I actually used drywall patch to fill up some of it.. A few more hours of dry and sand might have made it completely smooth... but overall I'm happy with it

AMAZING! I really enjoyed the posts, but I was a little disappointed getting to the end of the thread and there were no final photos! How did the story turn out??

Me too! Though I would be a little disappointed if we find out shelling 550 bucks wouldn't get ANH approval lol. Glad I'm an avid airsoft collector, it's a nice display piece.

Thanks Justin! This makes the order of events much more comprehensive to me. I already emailed the GML on Sunday, holding tight and hopeful Question about the blaster - I see that the CRLs indicate that the RO blaster can be based off the S&T airsoft, but I don't see anything that disqualifies the same replica being used for L2/L3 ANH? If anything, I can spot that the grips are edged differently between RO and ANH; am I reading wrong?

Thanks - Another post regarding belt height had indicated it shouldn't be TOO high, some wear the top of the belt covering half the lower button. How high is too high? https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26314-anh-stunt-belt-placement/ I have a couple of routes, let me run them by you: 1. Move the rivets on the ab plate (undo, patch, reinstall 5mm higher) 2. Move the rivets on the belt (pop buttons, cut rivets, punch new holes install new rivets, reinstall button) I kind of prefer moving the belt rivets, just less potential for error. Not really liking the velcro, I like the ab plate to be clean when the belt comes off haha

I wonder if I can alleviate this by how I "wear" the belt. The pop rivets alignment on both the belt and ab plate were done with a plumb/parallel angle in mind, Maybe that's why in photos taken from top down angles the belt might seem low. Perhaps I can wear the belt a bit looser or lower to achieve the desired look:

Thanks Swede! I think you missed a word in your sentence regarding belt. Come "up"/"down" a tad?

Thank you! Thank you all for the assistance. I definitely would've struggled a lot more had it not been for this community.