fishgoh0nk

I just moved the snap on the right ab - it was off center because I trimmed the ab plate after I drilled and installed the snap, hence it being not far enough from the edge. After the abs reinforcement on the rear dries, I'll fill up the hole with paste and sand/polish. Any additional things my armor would need for L3? Would this same forum section be usable for L3 pre-approval? Would I create a new post, but for L3 and include the layout from the Centurion photo checklist?

Reshot with some placement of the shoulder bells rolled forward Changed out to the v1 elastic loop. Are these an improvement?

Thanks and thanks for the feedback! Funny thing about the butt plate, I actually loosened the butt-plate with looser elastic, because what was happening was scrunching, where the butt plate was riding high and overlapping the belt. I devised an additional butt sinching belt, maybe I can just make an inbetweener, between sizes of the original and extended straps. Not sure how much closer to the front I can position the shoulder bell snap any closer to the front. I think to actually minimize the gap, the bell would have to be wide enough to cover my deltoid AND pectoral muscles. Are there any armor makers that have larger bells?

Name:. James W. Future Outpost: Southern California Garrison Maker: ANOVOS Helmet maker: ANOVOS Belt maker: TKittell (Imperial Issue) Neck seal maker: ANOVOS Boot maker: Imperial Boots Blaster maker: S&T (airsoft) with ebay T-tracks and m38 scope Gasket maker: ANOVOS Height, weight: 5'11 - 200lbs Type: ANH Stunt Special Thanks: @justjoseph63@ukswrath@TKSpartan@gmrhodes13@kman@TheSwede@CableGuy Note: L3 says minimal gap - should I order larger shoulder bells? I think my chest (pectorals) won't allow for sub-inch gap with the current bells. L3 - Slotted ear screws, vocoder repaint, L3 - White Rivets L3 - Single snap unpainted L3 - 45degree ammo belt corners L3 - Belt ammo pack rear enclosed L3 - T-Detonator using slotted pan screws L3 - 2 piece lenses L3 - Silicone handguards Ideally I would want to go to L3; but not sure what the approval format/order would be for the local garrison. Thanks!

Stuck at a cross roads guys - I've seen a mobility cut that I thought looked pretty good a while back for Centurion approval (right/blue); but the more I examine, screen accuracy is definitely left/green and seems to fit more with the SW era/universe/theme. Any thoughts or guidelines I should be aware of? I'm debating but I think I need some community feedback to push me over to one or another.

PM and postage sent. Tin snips? Oh snap, that's what you use to cut them? I used exacto scoring and snapping. I guess with all polycarb and plastic optical lenses, a coating is required for resistance to scratching/scuffs - wonder if there's a DIY coating option... I guess the blurry one will be an experimental polish/coating specimen, I'll do some research and experimentation

Even for a few minutes, helmet fan is life. Had to get my fans in - I got some mounts and finally decided the best place was to utilize the speaker nut and screws from @ukswrath's TK speakers. Decently sturdy, hopefully I don't get any structural integrity problems at HOVIs from burdening the battery. Since I'm here, might as well post the progress of the helmet. Any one know of a good way to polish the lenses? I made the mistake of even trying; now one's slightly blurrier than the other. Car detailing polish of 4500 grit isn't cutting it (see what I did there?).

When magnets just aren't strong enough... you utilize the coat closet to hang your thighs

Thanks Joseph! I left the ridges unfinished because I figured those'll get cut out when I make the mobility cuts. If there's any more rough edges after the material removal, I'll finish those up and polish/touch up. Airbrush Paint Formula Here's the paint formula as promised. I used Createx Wicked colors: Opaque White #0030, Black #0002, Yellow #0003, Red #0005, #5620 Gloss Clear with #4012 reduced, #4011 for undercoat. I made 2:25ml premixed color dilutions for Red Yellow Black (40 drops of the primaries in 25 ml of #0030 White, where 20 drops ~ 1 mL ). These dilutions served for experimentation with quantifiable results. After much trial and comparison, I arrived at (20 drops White [undiluted], 3 drops Black [diluted], 4 drops Yellow [diluted], 1 drop Red [diluted], 3 drops #4011 reducer). Give or leave 1 drop Yellow; I had to balance out having too much yellow haze from the airbrush edges vs it being a bit lighter so 4 or 5 drops still might yield good results. The ABS paste lines were stained and rather dark and had to be primed and sanded otherwise it would leave a residual dark shade. After several coats of white with .3mm and let dry, I then used 10% #4012 with the #5620 Gloss and sprayed extremely wet with .5mm. Hopefully someone looking for a color match will find this useful. No Bothans died for this information. EDIT: I think I found a better code: 60 drops diluted white, 5 drops black , 7 drops yellow, 3 drops red, 6 drops #4012 reducer. This time I sprayed with a .5mm needle. Had to respray because the E6000 caused some paint damage. Best to tape the edges (not cover stripped) to trap the E6000, and peels away clean. Also learned that sanding to 3000 grit will yield a better blend of colors. I'm super impressed with how the repaint turned out compared to the previous... contemplating reshooting the left thigh as well...

The closest I got after several mistakes and retries. What do you guys think... would this pass Basic Approval? What about L3? I haven't attached the cover strips yet, as if it's not passible for either, I'll probably paint the thigh entirely. The trouble wasn't just getting the right color, it was the blending from the airbrush's overspray. If I'm going to redo the entire thigh, I'll probably bondo over the unevenness of the shims and re-sculpt the rear. Indoor (bulb / sundown) Direct sunlight Indirect sunlight Warm color spectrum test Direct sunlight unglossed / sanded

Doing some science this week - trying to get the right color formula for Anovos white - Will share the formula once I succeed. Current bottle concentration is 1 : 5000 mL.

Yup, already have elastics, that morning I switched out my straps for the lengthier ones (left side), ultimately led to a back droop. I'm back to using the old ones (right)

For clarification - "take care of the ridges" - does this imply remove the ridges? or be careful not to remove the ridges?

Taking some pre-pre-approval photos; please excuse my loose shoulder strap and droopy back plate, that morning i switched out the shoulder elastics for some looser ones, i was trying to reduce the amount of digging into my neck from the front chest plate. I have that resolved. Got some question about mobility cuts - I have an idea of what the cuts I want to make look like, but was hoping someone could maybe draw some lines "they" would like to see? Walking down the stairs without them was brutal lol. Thanks in advance. Edit: was thinking something like this:

I used some 2x2 and a plywood square I had laying around and basically made a stand supported by 4 angled cut supports, two cross beams and a dowel to hang the thighs.

I guess this is a necro post lol - haven't given up! Finally got around to mounting the lenses. Currently waiting for the standoff's E6000 to cure, then I'll paint them black, then mount and drill the lenses. Also painted some aluminum mesh - thinking about double up, definitely don't want my smile to show Any thoughts besides just hotgluing the mesh to the back of the frown? I was thinking of using standoffs as well, just not sure if depth affects the way the frown looks.

Just recently did this to my helmet - I used this thread to help me make my lining choice so I thought posting this here might help someone in the future with some ideas.

Hope everyone's doing well. It's good to use the time in self quarantine to work on the build. Still waiting for my weld nuts to come in for the helmet lens mounts, been roughly over a month and they're still on back-order, big bummer. I was thinking about liner options for the helmet, and I really didn't want foam inserts or anything that would make me heat up, I pretty much sweat only on my head, and quite a bit too, so i definitely wanted some air-flow and after much research here, I opted to use a hardhat liner. The liners are fairly cheap, almost universal, but the tricky part was attaching it to the helmet itself with the ability to replace the harness when worn without un-gluing, so I made these key slot clips.

So... while sheltering in place, I really wanted to work on some stuff. Unfortunately the hardware vendor still is sitting on some weld nuts I placed back in Februrary... It's imported from Asia, so I'm guessing there's probably some delay due to COVID19. I wanted to glue the weld nuts in place before painting... I got impatient, so plastidipping I went. Masking made the TK face look a bit halloween-ish, good idea for a jackolantern? 3 Coats I wanted to cut my ear holes for Tony's SHA hearing system - I have some grommets to stabilize and hold the left/right ear mics. Used a 1/2 inch spade drill bit - Running it clockwise would crack and not make a perfect hole, so the trick is to drill in and reverse the bit as soon as the spade blade touches the surface, press down and the circular motion will mill out the hole. Then I painted the missing corners of the frown, the one on the right gave me a ton of trouble - got sick of modifying the stroke, wiped it all off and repainted it. Goof off surface spray works good as a thinner/modification tool Oh yea, then I made an armor stand.

Hey Kalani, any way possible you can share this miraculous pigment source with me?

For science and documentation purposes, here's a 1 hour dry time for Latex Acrylic - Behr Marquee, base Ultra Pure White, MQ330, Semi Gloss at varying wet sanded grid on Anovos Gen 1 220 Grit 320 Grit 400 Grit 600 Grit 800 Grit 800 Grit with a Wooster Semi Gloss brush 1200 Grit

Hopefully they'll have better matching scanners than home depot - looks like the shade i got has a little too much green/not enough violet/red. I'll see who I can find in my vicinity, and at the same time I'll be trial-and-erroring. I'd love to share the automotive paint match color with this forum if I get a good match.

Not sure where to buy matched spray paint... unless you have a recommendation? I did buy a can of the cheapo 98cent/can paint to try, but I haven't gone outside yet haha

I definitely plan to... I've taken this long to do everything, wouldn't want a few hours to ruin all of that The sheen from the 800 looks pretty good, but I'm guessing it's not going to matter since I'll need to wet sand the brush lines out. Any tips (besides doing a pour) to prevent brush lines? Or am I just going to have to wet sand + repeat?

Hopefully everyone's safe! I took a field trip to the local hardware store and got a panel matched with latex acrylic paint - I'm sure I'll be wet sanding this to smooth out brush lines, or do a pour... not sure what I'm hoping to get... all of this is to save me from having to learn how to air brush. First off is trying to find the right grit to use with ABS - this is paint + primer, I'm thinking I should've aerosol primed first regardless... I guess we'll see how it turns out after a cure and wet same and a high gloss clear coat. Update - On second thought, I probably should've used one of my better brushes... this brush was definitely too rough/coarse... I'm starting to like the 800 grit. I'll do another panel with a finer brush and post an update.