TheRascalKing

Pretty much same build over and over but new helmets, and after L3 this is the last time before this suit gets retired, I swear haha Same photos from my Pre-approval thread - hopefully none are deal breakers and I'll suit up one more time to correct anything for Centurion I appreciate you guys! Hopefully my Hero is fine. All fine here. Thank you. How are you, DOs?

Naw, Q is a legend, but that gold frame on his 5+ EIB badge is pretty spiffy... I got a few cards left up my sleeve too... Thank you though!!!

Hey all! Got my ANH-Hero basic approval today from my GML, so let's shoot for that next EIB! Mandatory Information Costume = Stormtrooper, ANH Hero Costume CRL Link = https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_hero Name = Justin R. TK ID = 61490 Forum Name = TheRascalKing Legion Profile = https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=26076 Garrison/Squad = Southern California Garrison, Orange County Squad Armor = Anovos Helmet = Troopermaster (TM Hero) Pre-Approval Thread Link = Base Suit Centurion Thread Link = Optional Height = 6ft 0in, or 183cm Weight = 175lbs, or 80kg Boots = TK Boots Ammo belt = TrooperMaster (TM Hero) Canvas belt = Imperial Issue Holster = Anovos Hand Plates = flexible latex from justjoseph63 Gloves = Double1 Rubber chemical gloves Neck Seal = Darman's Props Armor Photos Helmet Off (unadjusted) Full Body Front Full Body Back Full Right Full Left Action Shot Helmet Detail Photos Front Left Right Back S-trim Detail Vocoder and Hovi Mic Tip Detail Lens Color (Backlit if necessary) Accessory Photos Neckseal Thermal Detonator Ammo Belt Boots Blaster Optional Interior Strapping Abdomen Detail Cod Details Handguard Flex Sniper Knee Attachment (glue) Thigh Ammo Pack Attachment (single-cap rivets) Belt Box Back Detail (fully closed) Wrist Return Edge Detail (none present) Right Ab Snap Detail Left Side (rivets) and Kidney Notch Detail Shoulder Bridge Attachment (glue) Got some great feedback in my pre-approval thread, hopefully nothing that will hold me back from EIB! I'll plan on taking new photos for Centurion for sure to fix some of the minor adjustments needed. Thanks for looking!

Ooooooh, also this - 100%. RS is built to fit "trooper-sized" people - mesomorphic body styles about 5'11" and about 170lbs. If you fall super far outside that, you'll be shimming or trimming and some kits are much easier than others to do so (Anovos is pretty much a no go with shimming for example). Research, research, research.

Heyhey and welcome! I definitely would not say definitively that "RS is the way to go" - they're one of several excellent options, but far from the end of the discussion, especially if you live outside of the UK and plan to troop frequently in your suit. You're definitely paying extra for the name, "lineage", and shipping. As to the ABS vs PVS debate, ABS armor is more accurate to the films and by far the most popular material currently, though it can yellow from UV unlike PVC. If you go RS, there are several threads floating around with info on what changes will be required before approval and higher level submission. ANH-Stunt is also by far the most popular TK variant, but there is something to be said for ESB (mine is growing on me and it's the 40th Anniversary!). You'll need all of your soft goods most likely, so have a look around at the vetted vendors and we can always make suggestions as well. I prefer to get my boots from Imperial Boots, holster and neckseal from Darman's Props, canvas belt from Imperial Issue, and I wear a Nike Pro compression suit with thin running gloves for trooping. They make a resin blaster, but I love my rubber blaster for trooping - check out Praetorian and Hellhounds if interested. Hope that info helps!

RS are usually pretty good to go out of the box for basic (and not much for L3 even), and it seems like you've done solid research into many of the common things that need fixing/improving (kudos!), so you're off to a great start. I always say that RS are accurate to a fault though, and there are several things that can be done to improve them specifically for trooping vs display. Some things to watch for if not mentioned above: - I'd replace their thin (often wrinkled) acetate helmet lens with a more substantial plastic lens, as well as replacing the starfish with more comfortable padding (airsoft tactical pads work well or motorcycle or hardhat liners) - I personally use a black truck bedliner spray to black out my helmet and add a tiny bit of extra strength instead of Plastidip, which can peel and velcro/glue doesn't stick well to - I want to say their suits use the bracket assembly method by defaut, which can be prone to cracking your return edges and difficult to adjust - I'd leave the brackets themselves but switch to a velcro or even snap-based elastic/web strapping system personally - their Han and posterior snaps often come painted white, which we require to be removed to a natural finish - I always add some fuzzy velcro or craft foam to a couple key areas to prevent rubbing and damage to my armor - places like the back of the TD clips, the backside of any metal bits on the holster, the backside of the canvas belt attachments, and I add a little craft foam to the backs of my belt drop boxes to keep them from clattering quite as much You hit on many of the other common ones in your OP, so that's awesome. Even with a commission build, I'm stoked to see your enthusiasm and attention to detail! I hope your kit comes out awesome and of course, keep posting up if you need any help or feedback!

Wooooooo! Go Ardeshir, you got this!

Anything from RS is nice, but you're paying extra for the name, "lineage", and shipping. Plus theirs is resin, and I'd hate to drop a $200+ blaster and have it be done - little things like cocking handles, power cells, and sights are fragile...

Forsure. The biggest difference with Hellhounds is that he uses an actual metal scope rail, and I believe Praetorian's is molded in like HfX before them. I've had plastic, resin, and metal blasters... and for trooping, absolutely nothing beats a rubber blaster. Best balance of accuracy, durability, and weight, imo. Worth saving up for.

That's a repainted Rubies Rebels. Not bad for a first trooping blaster but far from accurate. Here's one for $19 and a $5 can of spray paint if you wanna save $60. -------- I usually tell people to get one of those to hold you over while you save up for a rubber one for trooping (display is different recommendations obviously). Hellhound Props is probably the best looking one out there currently, followed by Praetorian Blasters, if you're US based (I believe CCG is). https://www.facebook.com/hellhounds.props ----------

Bump! Curious if your armor arrived and you've started building? Are you on the SCF Imperial Recruits FB page as well? Let us know how we can help! (I'm also in Orange County!)

Not something I've seen before, very cool! I was trying to figure out how to attach latex bridges to my fiberglass RO check piece and failed, so that's good to know. I wonder if it would do latex to fiberglass... My only other concern is that the only latex shoulder bridges I have seen so far do not closely match the references for their era... so hopefully they're a good looking cast. Definitely post up if you get em!

Oh man, you would hate RS/true-OG style helmets then... lumps and bumps everywhere! But not a usual hallmark of AM, so likely a mistake in production - their molds are too clean for that, so can't hurt to have Dave replace it. Good luck on your journey! AM is beautiful armor when finished, and tough. Let us know how we can support you!

What the what... o.o No amount of Christmas spirit could ever compel me...

My question is how you'll glue them to the chest piece and if they'll lay properly, in addition to the above... Post up if you do it! Shoulder bridges ARE prone to cracking, so I see the demand, but am cautious...

Betrayed by the booty yet again! hahaha It's a common one with my submissions (I really do need to mess with that strapping a bit maybe) and was the first thing I spotted..... after I suited down haha I'll probably plan to retake photos for Centurion (maybe do my ESB at the same time?) but hopefully it'll squeak through EIB - I'll of course be adding more photos then. Our GML is notoriously tough (he sent back one of my Officer costume submissions recently because the pants weren't ironed flat... it's in the CRL though!) but I'm hoping it breezes through Basic shortly and I can put it up for EIB soon. I always appreciate the input tho!

I would ask over in the Facebook group, and tag Eric Dyck - if anyone knows, he definitely will. I want to say the versions mostly refer to the helmet, and that I saw a comparison (earlier versions were 3-piece!) but can't find the photo for the life of me. https://www.facebook.com/groups/840018932822639

Hey all! At it again, ever the student. Figured I'd give Hero a try! Let me know your thoughts! Mandatory Information Costume = Stormtrooper, ANH Hero Costume CRL Link = https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_hero Name = Justin R. TK ID = 61490 Forum Name = TheRascalKing Legion Profile = https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=26076 Garrison/Squad = Southern California Garrison, Orange County Squad Armor = Anovos Helmet = Troopermaster (TM Hero) Base Suit Centurion Thread Link = Optional Height = 6ft 0in, or 183cm Weight = 175lbs, or 80kg Boots = TK Boots Ammo belt = TrooperMaster (TM Hero) Canvas belt = Imperial Issue Holster = Anovos Hand Plates = flexible latex from justjoseph63 Gloves = Double1 Rubber chemical gloves Neck Seal = Darman's Props Armor Photos Helmet Off (unadjusted) Full Body Front Full Body Back Full Right Full Left Action Shot Helmet Detail Photos Front Left Right Back S-trim Detail Vocoder and Hovi Mic Tip Detail Lens Color (Backlit if necessary) Accessory Photos Neckseal Thermal Detonator Ammo Belt Boots Blaster Optional Interior Strapping Abdomen Detail Cod Details Handguard Flex Sniper Knee Attachment (glue) Thigh Ammo Pack Attachment (single-cap rivets) Belt Box Back Detail (fully closed) Wrist Return Edge Detail (none present) Right Ab Snap Detail Left Side (rivets) and Kidney Notch Detail Shoulder Bridge Attachment (glue) Other than the posterior spacing/overlap on that one photo (hopefully still good enough for EIB!), let me know if anything jumps out at you! Thanks for looking! [Again, a million shoutouts to my amazing *now FIANCE, DZ-71490! as of recently* for putting up with this ridiculousness and shooting and adjusting me in my photos. I've said it once and I'll say it again, she should be an honorary Centurion and knows this stuff as well as I do! haha] (is my signature big and dumb enough yet?!?!? :P )

Heyhey! Welcome to the finest detachment in the Legion! Between here and the SCG Imperial Recruit's FB page, looks like you're in all the right places! Let us know how we can support you!

Great to have another recruit for the SCG! I've been in contact with Kaleb as well

There's absolutely no preference given to armor maker, but I'm sure you'll notice a few of the same high-quality vendors popping up over and over. It speaks to the consistent quality of those makers and the research of the troopers building them, but not to the DO's preference. Also, a little confused... Anovos does not make ANH Hero helmets, only Stunt (and some early questionable belts). It can be modified to Hero with some work, but wanted to make sure that was clear when considering your submission for EIB. Anovos is a garbage company, but a fantastic set of armor, and my personal favorite sculpt. I've been approved at EIB 3 times now in my Anovos suit and will be submitting for a 4th approval (actually Hero but with a different bucket) soon. A few minor details need to commonly be changed for Centurion (mic tips, ear/TD harware, canvas belt) but not a ton... why would the expectations be lower or would you assume it wouldn't be great?

Make sure you're logged in too, not just viewing as a guest. Had that similar thought a while back.

Hey guys, been a while, I do apologize! Work and life have been crazy and I've been stuck in that last 10% or so of my build for a little while. I'm constantly trying to figure out not just how to make things work, but how to get them to work WELL! So let's break down my list of excuses as to what's been holding me back. It's pretty much 4 categories: the helmet, the belt, the shoulder bridges, and final strapping/adjustment. The Helmet: Not much to say here. It's still sitting in primer (well, sanded back clear), waiting for it's final coat of white and clear, then the grey/black details. I'm waiting to finish the belt so I can respray both at the same time, since cracking open a can of 2K clear is a commitment. I have the satin grey, flat black, and a black fine detail paint pen ready to go, it just makes me nervous with the masking to ensure I get the details sharp. The Belt: Had a pretty bad issue with the belt that has been extremely irritating and time consuming to fix and has led me to question my paint method as a whole. I didn't document much of this (sorry) admittedly because of how frustrated it made me. I was using a piece of 2" blue masking tape horizontally across the middle of the belt to help me mark the holes for my belt box attachments, and when I went to remove it, I ripped about 2"x10" of the clear coat off the center of the belt. It must not have fully bonded to the 2X paint underneath and peeled off like a film. It was thick enough that it left a jagged, noticeable edge where it was removed, and obviously a difference in sheen. I was pissed. The belt is a pretty noticeable part of the suit, so I knew it needed to be fixed correctly, which meant more sanding and a respray. I tried to spray a couple coats of white to bring the level in the exposed area back UP, while also spending several sessions sanding the clear on the rest of the belt DOWN to try to level it out. I thought I had it good to go and sprayed the whole thing again... only to have the clear continue to peel up. At this point, I used a piece of tape and intentionally ripped off any remaining clear that was loose, then sanded almost all the way down to the fiberglass, before spraying with white again, which is where the belt is at now. Ready for clear. Again. Unsure if this was an isolated incident with the 2K or what, but between this and the cost, I think I would just use Rustoleum's gloss clear if I did this again. Not sure the 2K is worth it. Which brings me to my next difficulty - attaching the belt. I had the realization the other day that this suit would potentially be very difficult to put on by myself, should I need to without a competent wrangler, which got me rethinking some of my assembly methods. Hence where the magnets come in! I started with the idea of making the trauma plate easier to install on my own and added 4 big neodymium magnets to it in the center and top corners. I may dial the gap in more in the future but I wanted to keep the flare at the bottom to account for the back belt. I cut some craft foam and covered the bottom side of the panel, hopefully keeping the scratching/rubbing to a minimum (which I'll address in a couple other places as well, and will be watching for as I wear the suit... some day haha). And installed! It goes on easily by itself and aligns nicely. Next I wanted to find a convenient and secure way to mount the belt to the barrel, and figured I would give the same big neodymium magnets a shot. I sprayed some with flat white so they blend in a little better and epoxied them to the back side of the belt, and corresponding ones to the inside of the barrel. I also put magnets on the ends of the belt, where they overlap, and I'll add a little of my ultra-thin velcro to the very edge to hold it all together. I did need to end up trimming about 2" off both sides of the rear belt assembly, as it was too long and the overlap was hitting somewhere up by the belt boxes. I'll need to repaint the ends, and I wish I had noticed and fixed this before final paint... But it's okay because I had ANOTHER paint issue on the belt! When I was testing out the magnets, I left one on the front overnight by accident and it bonded to the paint or something, because when I removed it, I got this: So that was fun to repair. Again. I have all the holes drilled, screws ready, and the elastic prepped for the drop boxes - just waiting to assemble until after final paint on the front belt. And finally, the last belt component is the thermal detonator. Started masking it so it will be ready for gray when I do the helmet details, then I will mount it to the rear belt. Planning to use screws for everything, along with a little E6000 to hedge my bets. Hopefully if I ever need to remove anything, it won't take the clear with it again... The Shoulder Bridges: Next on my list of sorrows were the should bridges and their attachment. I had originally ordered and intended to use rubber/latex shoulder straps from Jeff/11b30b4, but was having a heck of a time deciding how to mount them and was way overthinking everything. Between this, the fact that they had yellowed pretty significantly, and that I eventually ended up snapping one while trying to bend it to the proper curved shape (they are cast flat), I ended up giving up on them and went back to the hard ones from Jim. The ridges are larger and look more accurate, but I was (and still am) concerned about them cracking. I think I've decided that I'm going to glue them in the front with epoxy, then use neodymium magnets embedded in the bridges to keep them in the pockets at the rear, essentially "hard-mounting" everything, more like many clones do. I also ordered a set of Mr. Paul's (of TotalGrunt/Shoretrooper build fame) metal shoulder bell/bridge supports. These are apparently the most accurate way to ensure your shoulder bells are supported and sit correctly, and include the elastic/snaps to attach the bells, so I'll post up how that process goes when they arrive from the UK. Final Strapping/Adjustment: Obviously this is the very last step, but I'm curious what new and exciting problems I'll run into as I figure the last of this out. I haven't actually put on the full suit in MONTHS so I'm curious how it'll go. I don't think I've post since I started applying the ultra-thin Velcro, but I'm pretty stoked on it. The only concerns I have had are that it's actually a little stronger than I anticipated, so I don't need to use as much as I did on most of the pieces (I may trim it back later) - I don't want to put TOO much strain on the pieces when I WANT to take them back apart. I also ran into the issue of the adhesive pulling the clear coat off again, so I started scuffing up the spots where I applied Velcro to help mitigate this. Otherwise, it works and looks great and allows for a much more flush look. Magnets probably would work well for areas like the shins and forearms as well, but I'm over it and just want to finish at this point. I also need to create the belt drops to hang my thighs with... it's on my list. I'd like to improve over my current OT-style design and incorporate the correct-style clips, but need to do some more research. If anyone has any good solutions, I'd love to hear/see them! From the top down, a checklist (mostly for me, but might as well post it here): Helmet - final white and clear, helmet detail paint, install visor and vocoder, install interior padding, install fans/mic Chest/back - epoxy in shoulder bridges and shoulder bell supports, finalize chest-to-side panel connections, install craft foam lining Ab/belt - epoxy in magnets for belt attachment, final white/clear on belt, install belt boxes, paint thermal detonator, install thermal detonator Arms - install shoulder bell snaps Legs - glue sniper knee, create garter system for thighs, install garter system I'll keep grinding away and maybe add some pictures later this weekend, but there's a pretty big update down for ya!

My ears were burnin' haha. Appreciate the kind words, y'all are makin' me blush XD Welcome, Wayne! You're in the right place. Research, research, research but never be afraid to ask a dumb question before you make a dumb mistake, I always say. We're all here to help. Troopers helping troopers