CableGuy

Hi Mark, Lovely work with the bolt lettering. With the spring, I found a drumstick and a pair of pliers worked a treat. If memory serves me correctly, around 12/13 visible coils. Also, I used Tino’s scope rail as it came, thus putting a screw through the back of the rear sight (as pictured). If I were doing it again, I’d probably cut the 90 degree bend off of the back end, drill a new hole and screw straight down. (Just my personal choice). I’m sure Tino will be able to confirm. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi David, I bought a set of various brushes from Amazon. Of the ones in the set, I found that A and B useful for the frown and any finer detailing. C was great for the vocoder and D was good for filling the traps and tears with grey. Not sure if you’ve read this before but, for the traps and tears, some people recommend painting the black outlines before the grey. I found this much easier and gave a nicer end result. Here’s an example of what I mean: I tried the other method (grey then fine black pinstripe) and, for me personally, the former option gave a better result. Btw, +1 for satin black on the vocoder. I find it looks a little more “off the set”. And, if you’re going for the ‘hand painted’ Dave M style templates, just make sure they are applied as intended. They are specific for left tube and right tube. See reference pics of the Dave M helmet for confirmation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome aboard, Cohen. That’s looking lovely. Whilst there some sandies amongst the FISD ranks, If you wanted slightly more specialised assistance, don’t forget to sign up over on the MEPD Forums too. Best wishes, Dan

I’ve only got the one wire to hide, from my TRamp to my mic, so this just sits underneath the neck seal, straight down my front. As my TRamp unit is behind the chest plate, the cable is hidden nicely.

Hi Greg, I’m another one with a big head. ;-) What you might find helpful is to put your lid on, then feel around with your hands to see where the space is. For me, it was near my mouth and cheeks, so I put my cylindrical power bank near my right cheek (sort of). Here’s a pic, if it helps. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is it time for the “Waynocerous ANH Stunt WIP armour build” thread? We need more pics.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The EVA is, I would guess, around 1.5mm. The tactical pads are not really putting any pressure on my head - just stopping the wobble. I have a long troop in March so I’ll report back.

I went for black, self adhesive EVA sheets and cut them to size. Easy to work with and can also be used to cover any wiring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great work, Mark. Loads of lovely little touches throughout. :-)

Great work, Michael. That’s come together really well. See you at Centurion.

Damn it - I’ve just spend an hour playing “spot the difference”!!

Many thanks - mine is all sorted.

Many congrats, Matt!! EIB #800 - can’t forget that one. Next up, Centurion. :-)

Don't worry - it’s never a problem, only a challenge. If it’s not going to come off without damaging parts, you could perhaps look at putting green stuff over the existing details and smoothing, then using a small file to recreate the detail on the back end. (Well, probably in a reverse order to that so that you can mimic the existing detail before you cover it up). Regarding dark photos, you’re right about some of the screen shots. Thankfully, a lot of the FISD blaster reference and other build threads show pieces in their resin form, which are easier to work with. That blaster ref PDF is a handy thing to download to your phone or tablet, if you haven’t already. Hehe. I skim read through it but didn’t read the whole thing. I based my cylinders on Tino’s. Keep up the good work, Micheal. This is going to look super alongside your armour.

Sounding typically English, “Blimey!!” Great work with the putty. That’s looking superb. By using the styrene and putty, that’s really opening up the possibilities above and beyond the standard resin + green stuff.

Good old junior hacksaw worked well for mine. Had to remove 5mm off the length of mine. Just marked around the whole circumference of the pipe to ensure it was cutting straight. Careful use of a Dremel disc could probably obtain the same results. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Amazing work, Jesse! And yes, that little Dremel tool is superb for so many applications. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Michael. Excellent progress! As you say, the end is drawing in! :-) Good work on the power cylinders. Personally, anything that wasn’t in the FISD Blaster Reference pdf I just followed one of Tino’s builds. Here’s some shots of the power cylinders. Regarding the folding stock attachment, I’ve not heard of using two screws before. I used one mounted into the folding stock, connecting into the bespoke hole in the underside of the barrel. As the Doopy’s folding stock is not functional, you have to locate the front screw in the bespoke hole in the barrel, (pictured above), THEN attach the carriage bolts near the grip end. Regarding your rear sight, if it’s possible to spin it around, the corrugated part faces the back. Your bolt looks great, btw. Not long until your painting this bad boy! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking sharp, Andreas! This will make an excellent addition to your FOTK. Best of luck - see you at Centurion. Dan

Hmmm. Perhaps you could throw up some pictures of your lid, inside and out, as Q suggested. We’ll do all we can to help out.

One word for your build thus far : TIDY!! :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like some very neat trimming there, Julien. Out of interest, are you planning on removing the return edge from all of the parts of your kit? Whilst it’s not a necessity to have the return edge, it can be nice to add the appearance of depth to certain parts. I’m not in any way saying you’re doing it wrong - just posing the question.

Lol!! Sun, cold beer, blasters.... holiday is VERY enjoyable!

Not sure if you’ve mounted it yet, but, the scope can be mounted to the back in a couple of ways. If I’m reading the blaster ref correctly, the top option, ie no bend on the back end of the scope rail, is proven to be screen accurate. The 90degree option is not. Regarding the height of yours, looks good to me. :-) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Have you fitted the rear sight yet? Essentially, it’s going to be the distance between the hole at the front end that the rail sits in, and the gap in the rear sight. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk