CableGuy

Superb work, Brien!! Of the options you've provided, I'd favour option B, especially when viewed in the smaller size (pictured right). This is not a criticism, but when blown up to the larger size, for some reason I'm getting a slight hint of 80's arcade games (for the life of me I cannot pinpoint why). Possibly the heavy set outer glow on the stars and lettering? A slight cartoon-ish feel. Out of interest, have you experimented with any other fonts? This one is quite soft, with rounded edges. Perhaps one with slightly harder edges. Again, what you have done is SUPERB, so keep up the great work!!

For charging their Imperial Phone, (or iPhone for short)...

The practical popper method is popular. As below, one popper on inside of the bell and another popper on the inside of the bicep, connected by (approx) 1inch wide elastic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Gary, Overall, you’ve done a great job on your build - you wear it really well. :-) Just a couple of things have hit me, at a glance, that need adjusting for your target of Centurion. Your drop boxes should align with the outside edge of the main belt. Also, you could probably straighten the 45degree corners of the belt, rather than soft curves. (See reference gallery for examples - should line up with the canvas of the belt) The magazine on your E-11 appears to be backwards. Just a dressing issue, but you might want to try and line up the thighs and shins for a slightly neater look. One final thing I’d mention is the inside of the mic tips should be white to the inner edge. Easy changes. You’ve done a cracking job on that!

Happy to knock some up for you, Tom.

Hehe. You are very kind. Thank you. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Superb, Paul. Great work!

Thanks for the frame tips, guys. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Really sorry to hear of your experience, Tom. As the others have said, try not to let that sour your Stormtrooper ambitions and excitement. As Chris said, we have an unbelievable selection of armour makers here in the UK and would be happy to help you on your way to a top notch suit, hand-in-hand with some excellent customer service. Best wishes, Dan

Hi Neil, As per FB, looking GREAT!! [emoji1] I’d only consider lowering the arms a little to even out that wrist gap. Also, if you’re thinking of going to Centurion, you might be asked to move your TD clips/brackets to the very outer edges, touching the white end caps. Great work. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Chad, Personally, I’ve not heard of that before but, do you have any pictures of the effect? Others might recognise the issue and have a solution. Are you painting in extreme temperatures? Dan :-)

Looking super!! EIB, here you come.

Congrats, Greg. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like some great research and preparation prior to your build - that's wonderful to see. With bookshelf-Yoda and the FISD gang here to help, you'll do great. Best wishes, Dan

Nice work, sir.

Hi Fredrik, You’re correct. If you’re aiming for EIB and Centurion, the teeth paint will have to be cleaned up a little. (CRL quote, “Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area”) You might be able to gently remove some of the excess, depending on what paint Anovos used, with a wooden toothpick. Hopefully some other members with Anovos lids could expand a little on that. Also, for L2/L3, the mesh on the front of the mic tips would have to changed for something a little more accurate as the Anovos mesh is very fine. Here’s what I mean; Best wishes, Dan Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Wow. Folding stock is looking great! Btw, you’re documenting this really well. It’s lovely to read and view. Good work, Mark.

Great job on the ears. Brow looks very stunty, too.

Ah, gotcha. I wouldn’t worry too much, though. I don’t think it’ll cause any clearance issues. Probably just a minor adjustment to line it up, just for your own piece of mind. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve just had a look at your main build thread and can see that they looked pretty parallel at that point. Have you trimmed further since, hence this post? Possibly looks like your cover strip just slipped during gluing. Did you use E6000, or a similar, removable glue? If so, if it bothers you you could probably just remove the cover strip (pictured top), move it over a little to equally cover both halves of the arm, and re-glue. (Looks like it’s covering significantly more of one half than the other). ### To to be safe, I’d post the question on your main build thread, also. I can see that Tony ( @ukswrath ) amongst others is following your build and certainly has a great eye on things like this.

Looking at that picture, I think the angle of the photo might be deceiving. Based on the width of the floor tiles below the shins and those above the thighs, it looks like the photo is at quite an angle. RS kits are usually a thing of screen accurate goodness, so, I’m guessing it’ll look spot on when it arrives.

Hi Jeff, Do you mean because the cover strips aren’t parallel? Do you have any pictures of them on with your undersuit? Symmetry and stormtroopers don’t usually go hand in hand. ;-) Here’s the elbow end of a screen used forearm from the FISD gallery. You’ll see that not all parts are symmetrical. Could you expand a little more on which part is bothering you?

Good point. Personally, I also used the gloss for the stripes and the rank bar on the ears. Just the vocoder and mic tips with the satin. The visible difference on those thin lines will be marginal. However, another source linked below suggests Satin for all of the black parts of the lid. As as far as I’m aware, this is more of a ‘guide’ than a requirement. The satin just gives a slightly more used look.

Never fear - Gloss black is still good for the pinstripes - ie the bits around the traps and tears. Satin (Humbrol #85) is also good for the hovi tips if they need painting. :-)

Hiya. Are you particularly tall, Ian? As the RS armour is cast straight from screen used armour, there is usually little need to increase the length of a piece, just the width around the relevant body part. As Joseph said, if you have any pics that’d be super. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk