CableGuy

Well done, Eric. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome aboard. [emoji1] Looking forward to seeing some pics. Whilst they don’t crop up that often, they can be cleared if done carefully. Best wishes. Dan

Well done, Tony. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Superb, mate. Those gaps at the wrist look much better. [emoji1303] Looks like your back gap is smaller too. Great work!! [emoji1][emoji1][emoji1] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I certainly will, mate. Looking forward to it.

Ooo, they look tasty!! :-)

Hi Mark, I also used Tino’s kit and attached using the L-bracket and 3 screws. Not the easiest part to photograph once it’s all painted and hidden behind the scope, but, hopefully these help a little. The L-bracket is attached under the scope rail, below the front foot of the scope, using the same screw as the scope. A single hole is drilled into the side of the counter, allowing a screw to pass through the downward part of the L-bracket and into the counter. (You could probably do two holes if you wanted, but I think Tino only did one in his build - if it’s good enough for him, .... [emoji1]) You can just see the L-bracket under the scope rail, below the front foot. I read that the originals where attached with hot glue, hence many being missing. I think the bracket and screws option is much better for trooping. ;-) How that helps a little. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I feel another video coming on....

Yeah, you're probably right there. If it were me, I'd be tempted to drop the forearms by at least 1cm. That should help keep your gloves from popping out. When you look at the screen shots, as with everything in ANH, there are many variations. Here’s a nice example of Luke and Han’s kits, with about 2cm gap (I’d estimate) at the glove end: Before you go adjusting straps though, I'm sure you'll get more feedback from others in the coming hours. Dan

Great work, Daniel. Looking really good. :-) Just a little thought. There appears to be something poking out at the front edge of your forearms. You could consider bringing the forearms down by about an inch to reduce that gap. Not sure if the back gap will be raised. CRL states “Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate.”, but doesn’t actually specify how big the gap can be. I’m sure the DOs will confirm. Best of luck with your application. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Superb work, Jared! Looking awesome! :-) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congrats, Jeff. Welcome aboard.

Well done, Frank.

Awesome!! Thoroughly deserved, Greg.

I’d certainly agree with smaller at rear, if none at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wow!! TM rocking the Centurions!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for clarifying, Paul. For those that don’t read the rest of the thread, do you think it’s possoble to add a note to that effect near the poll itself? Just so we don’t miss that data. :-)

Hi Ian, Firstly, what a fantastic work space you have!! :-) In all honesty, those gaps are in keeping with certain screen used helmets; However, if you did want to close them up a bit, you could possibly drop the ears a little and refine the shape lower down to suit. Of course, this would require more holes in the lid itself, however these would be covered by the ears anyway. It’s looking lovely though. :-)

Superb job, Jared. That fits you like a glove and looks superb! :-) Very little work needed to get you approved by the looks of it. As Daniel mentioned, those rear cover strips on the calves should end where the ridge starts. The only other thing I’d mention, and it’s not a clearance issue and doesn’t need to be done, if you wanted to add a little more “stunt” look to your lid, you could possibly extend the frown paint a little further, beyond the un-drilled holes, and level the vocoder a little. As I said, it’s not required at all and all lids are slightly different, so it's not a criticism. The lid pictured is the "Dave M" helmet. With the back/kidney, as you said, a little hot water bath could help to shape it. You could also consider putting additional straps near those outer edges to help keep things lined up? Excellent job - I’m sure you’ll be approved in no time.

Hiya. Do you have any more pics of the lid from further back and different angles? It looks like you might be able to drop the ears by a few a mm, but hard to gauge from those close up pics. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great job, Andreas. Congratulations. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Superb, Gareth. That looks awesome!!

Hi guys, As a middle ground, when a member selects “other”, is it possible for a “please specify” text box pop up for them to specify their armour maker? Once the poll is complete, a breakdown of “other” would then be available. Just a thought. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Aw, thank you. I’m glad the video was helpful. :-) It sounds like you have a really clear aim - hopefully your armor arrives soon and you can get things moving. Any questions along the way, just shout out and we’ll do what we can to get you to that Centurion status. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

By being here on FISD and being aware of EIB and Centurion, you’re already on the right path. Research is key really. If you have a look through some of the approved EIB, then Centurion applications (those with a number eg [123] after the thread title) you will see some of the finer details that are required for Centurion, and how people go about achieving them. Things such as even gaps between certain armour parts, correct drop box placement, correct fixings used etc. Best wishes, Dan