CableGuy

No need for the tube stripe police this time; you’re NAILING this build!!! [emoji1303][emoji1][emoji1303][emoji1]

No worries. Some stunts had brows a little lower and many trooping troopers do. The stunt TK at the back of this shot has almost exactly what you have. The other 3 stunts are more stereotypically stunt. (Note the Hero lid front right with the low brow)

Hiya, Welcome back. :-) That’s coming along nicely. Getting the shoulders in place will really give you a feeling of trooperness. :-) Just a little thing. You might want to secure the brow a little. It’s appears to be sloping down to the left (when viewed from the front). The height of the brow is personal preference however keeping it nice a straight is a good option. Lower usually looks a little meaner and more like a Hero helmet, whereas a little higher is typical for ANH stunt. Stunt: Hero Keep up the good work. :-)

Before you take measures, can you show a picture of you with the shins on, then with the boots and shins, and just the fit of the boots. You look like a nice slim fit so it seems odd that you’d have to shim them. (Unless they supply them very small) You might find that the opening of those boots is just very large. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Excellent work - well done, Markus. [emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji1303]

Just the lighting by the looks of it. Looks okay in the close ups. [emoji1303] There’s no top gap in this pic - perhaps they just weren’t done up fully in the previous pics?

DOH!! Cheers bud. :-)

No worries mate. I’m guessing there’s a popper roughly where the red circle is. Depending on how it’s attached, you could try moving it to (roughly) where the green circle is. This would pull them up towards the shoulder bridges and reduce the gaps. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey bud. Well done for getting to this point. I’ve been following your thread and you’ve done really well. :-) Just to add to the other bits raised, I’d just throw in the calves. Personally, I’d try to close those gaps at the top. Also, not sure if it’s the lighting or if the backs are dented? Have fun at that first troop. [emoji1303] Best of luck with your application. :-) Dan

Hi Jim Do you have a picture of the other side or that elastic? Basically, where the popper is? You could possibly move the popper, pinch and sew the elastic to make it a little shorter or attempt removing the glue. Depends on what your working with really. :-)

Greg, this really is exceptional attention to detail, and well executed, too. The frown paint, the cracked paint on top...wow! I really like your weathering so far, too. I’ve seen a lot of very orange TDs recently, which is partly why I chose the Fullers earth method for my lid project, however, your’s is looking very natural so far. Keep up the good work! [emoji1303][emoji1]

Hi Jim Looking good. [emoji1303] I’d agree with the others and just add that the shoulder bells could be brought closer to your chest plate. Not sure why but RS always seem to leave the shoulder strapping about an inch too long on both sides when they do commissions. Simply shortening the strapping could help bring those in a bit and reduce the Black gap. A couple of minor tweaks and you’ll be cleared in no time. :-) Dan

Hiya That’s from the reference gallery - screen used, I believe. It might be the lighting but that is up against the end caps. :-)

Hi Ron, Personally, my thermal det is held on with just the screws. No harm in adding a little E6000 though if you want to be extra sure. Here’s a nice reference pic for positioning of the clips (right up against the end caps) and the screws, just in case you didn’t have one. [emoji1]

Hiya. I used this one. It’s probably about 1 or 2mm thick. It was mostly a good outcome, however, if you work it too much it can make the barrel look a little flat when the paint goes on. Still pleased with it overall, though. Hope that helps a little. [emoji1][emoji1303]

Ah ha. In that case, just follow where Joseph marked. You want those two parts right up against each other, but not overlapping. :-)

Hi Jose, Nice job! I see your EIB was back in 2016! It’s been a long time coming. ;-) Just a couple of things. It’s hard to tell from the pictures of you have cover strips on the back of the thighs? Also, whether the shins are using the overlap method? Overlap method would be an issue for Centurion. Also, I’m not sure if you have two different ab buttons pictured? One picture seems to show separate buttons. Your smaller ab plate buttons also appear to be a different shade of white. Not sure if you could consider a closer colour match at some point in the future just to finish it off. Best of luck with approval. Dan :-)

Yep - many, including myself, have gone for a slightly wider radius curve on the bottom corner; however, those pictures above are of screen used so, if I were doing another suit, I’d follow that as a reference. Can’t get better than seen on screen... lol

Hi Ron, Looking good so far. :-) I’m guessing you’re referring to the parts I’ve marked in yellow: Personally, I would leave it how you have it. If you tried to straighten that edge (ie perpendicular to the floor) you’d be losing valuable material off of your chest plate and it might end up looking a little small. This angle can vary from armour maker to maker, but also depends on ones chest size. What you have looks good so far. [emoji1303] The chest overlap is great. Don’t try to butt them up against each other - you want a good overlap like you have. [emoji1303] You mentioned Centurion - don’t be afraid to set your sights high. By the looks of it, you have a good body shape for a nicely fitted armour so Centurion should be well within grasp for you as you wouldn’t need to shim the sides etc. Obviously, it’s totally your choice (however it does feel nice to get that Centurion certificate [emoji6]) Keep up the good work. Best wishes Dan

Okay. Based on what you’ve said about other EIB and Centurion ATA applications, I’d be tempted to leave it as is for now and carry on working on the rest. Then review it again when your arms and legs are on and see how it looks as a package. Regarding the shins, the outer side is usually a little longer than the inside: There is no need for return edge on the bottom of the shins so you could always trim it if you wanted to. Have you tried them as they are with your boots on? :-)

Hiya. Looks like an improvement straight away. [emoji1] Don’t be put off aiming for L2/L3 because of it. I’ve seen similar gaps pass Centurion. The CRL doesn’t technically specify a gap - it aims to keep any overlap of the parts to a minimum. (“Back plate shall have no, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate” - no mention of gap between the two). Getting the parts nice and close is ideal and is recommended but, sometimes, especially with taller troopers, that’s just not possible. You might also find that the two parts are reluctant to sit close as they appear to be different shapes. The corners of the back plate appear to be sitting on the kidney, however the middle of the back plate then curves up to 1cm or so in the middle. Perhaps some other ATA builders could guide us on whether they had similar issues, or had to reshape the curvature of the back plate? Keep up the great work. [emoji1303]

Hi Martijn, Don’t worry too much about the thigh ammo pack being off centre. A lot of screen used ones were anyway, so yours is actually more screen accurate that way. I’m guessing you’ve clamped this for checking the length but, just wanted to check that you weren’t gluing the ammo pack in that position? The top edge of the ammo pack should line up with the ridge. Regarding the elastic on the shoulder Bell (that hugs the biceps), most glue them straight to the bell. I did mine with E6000. Here’s a pic of the “RS suit” and it also appears to be glued in. :-)

Hi John, Just seen your query about the back plate. Do you have anymore pictures? I don’t know how tall you are but, I’m wondering if your torso armour is at least a couple of inches too low. Here’s a shot comparing your back plate with Harrison Ford himself. If he straightened his arm, I looks like his torso armour would be an inch or so higher than his elbow. It looks like yours might be in line with your elbow: That couple of inches could really help your back plate reach your shoulders. The crotch area should be, well, erm, cupping, you know... ;-) Feel free to post up any more pics if you have them. :-)

Hi Bob. No worries. https://www.facebook.com/Imperial-Warfighters-280604068972001/ He does them in resin or rubber. Just pop him a pm through his Facebook page for my details. :-) Dan :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well done, Jared. :-)