revlimiter

This was a good find. A ton of real NTTKs and none with any kintsugi on the shoulder straps. I'm looking for hand armor today as well and see zero with grey on them. Lots of kintsugi and a few with red ribbons, but no grey hand guards. Ribbon glove boy can be seen when Ezra hops onto the ship.

A quick perusal reveals NO kintsugi on the shoulder straps. Dirt and red ribbons, but no kintsugi. Can anyone back this up?

Maybe the CRL could spec that the shoulder bridges DON'T need dremeled kintsugi? That said I've got my own mold for R1 rubber shoulder bridges. Would be relatively easy to make another with a kintsugi pattern in it. my problem has been keeping the rubber white... Mine yellow just sitting in the garage and it's unpleasant.

I had the desire to throw some assistance at this CRL. Hopefully this is actually a help. Shoulder Armor One on each shoulder. The shoulders are considered effectively symmetrical; they may be worn interchangeably on the left and right shoulders and may have a black elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Light to medium weathering as per references The shoulders can be white, contain a gray repair section or be completely gray as per reference's builder's discretion on how this composition looks is allowable. One shoulder must contain the gold cracking (Kintsugi) effect. Paint pens or hand painted cracking to the surface is allowable. The cracking designs are up to the builder's discretion, as there are multiple references to work off. Red wrapping may be added, as per references if desired. Red wrappings fold under the shoulder edge. It is suggested that one shoulder have either red wrappings or a grey repair section per screen references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Cracking (Kintsugi) effect, must be created using a Dremel or similar tool into the surface, gold colored paint or paint pens can be used to fill in the cracking. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): There is no swoop on the shoulder bell raised area. There is no elastic strap that wraps around the inside of the bicep. Gold imitation leaf must be used for any patching and filling of cracks. Real gold leaf can be used but is not a requirement. Upper Arm Armor Both biceps are symmetrical and interchangeable. The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Light to medium weathering as per references The upper arms can be white or contain a gray repair section as per reference's builder's discretion on how this composition looks is allowable. One upper arm must contain the gold cracking (Kintsugi) effect. Paint pens or hand painted cracking to the surface is allowable. The cracking designs are up to the builder's discretion, as there are multiple references to work off. Red wrapping may be added, as per references if desired. Red wrappings continue around the armor and may have the appearance of loose ends. Wraps fold under the back opening and allow the armor to open and close as it does normally OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Cracking (Kintsugi) effect, must be created using a Dremel or similar tool into the surface, gold colored paint or paint pens can be used to fill in the cracking. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Cover strips will cover both the front and back joints. Biceps are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Gold imitation leaf must be used for any patching and filling of cracks. Real gold leaf can be used but is not a requirement. Forearm Armor The front strip is bevelled and approximately ⅛" thick that does not extend beyond the bicep, and has a smaller cover strip layered thereon. Light to medium weathering as per references The forearms can be white or contain a gray repair section as per reference's builder's discretion on how this composition looks is allowable. One forearm must contain the gold cracking (Kintsugi) effect. Paint pens or hand painted cracking to the surface is allowable. The cracking designs are up to the builder's discretion, as there are multiple references to work off. Red wrapping may be added, as per references if desired. Red wrappings continue around the armor. Wraps fold under the back opening and allow the armor to open and close as it does normally. It is suggested that one forearm have red wrappings per screen references. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Cracking (Kintsugi) effect, must be created using a Dremel or similar tool into the surface, gold colored paint or paint pens can be used to fill in the cracking. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Forearms are loosely held closed in the back with elastic, shock cord (bungee cord) or white Velcro and are designed to remain flexible. Cover strips will cover both the top and bottom joints. Gold imitation leaf must be used for any patching and filling of cracks. Real gold leaf can be used but is not a requirement.

That area was a huge pain to sand. Styrene is a great solution!

I wonder if that could be the selvage from the fabric bolt? Seems to be the same color anyway. It's often a very different texture than the rest of a bolt. HA!!! I was thinking about a headband right after posting that. And not in a good way. Maybe the helmet section could have a ribbon allowance line like "Red wrappings allowed through eye, mouth, and vent openings if desired. Headbands, skullcaps, and other styles not seen on screen are forbidden." ? That is fantastic. And I think that bit could apply to quite a few pieces of armor. Excellent!

In the helmet section: For armor with grey sections, including the helmet, it seems to follow a formula. Either an entire "panel" is replaced with grey or a whole piece is painted grey. Like an entire tube, the entire face, the entire dome, etc. Or a whole shoulder/cod/forearm/etc. You never see a small section "repaired" with a grey section for example. Small repair sections are replaced with gold. The only grey repaired panel we see is the chest where almost half is grey. Is there some succinct way to spell this out in the CRL? I can give it some thought if this would be possible or someone who's a better wordsmith than me could whip something out. We also saw a few troopers with red ribbons in/on their helmets. Should that be called out as an allowed modification? May I suggest either "Imitation gold leaf" or "Faux gold leaf" instead of "Gold look leaf"? When you google in search of the cheap/fake stuff, the actual material is usually called "imitation gold leaf sheets." Are the eyes allowed to be seen when the LEDs are turned on? I don't think they were in the series but I honestly do not know. (Sorry for wrapping back around to the top of the helmet thing... I can't make it paste this at the top of my reply. ) Is there a specific weathering color required? IE brown for sandies and black for HWT? References look to be mostly charcoal but also have some earthy dark brown tones.

Congratulations Centurion!!! You look fantastic John. Absolutely outstanding armor build.

If I may humbly suggest... You've weathered the armor in a very subtle yet nice way. I would call it "moderately weathered." It looks in keeping with the screen used armor. The kama is new and crisp. It's bright and shiny with no weathering. Maybe dirty it up to match? It doesn't looks so much like a match right now. Also, your back plate has a large gap between it and your shirt. Would you be able to close that up a little for a better fit? It would probably be more comfortable that way too. This really does look great though!

Looking great!!! You got this Dan!

My beef as a GML is when the photos and text don't match. Drives me and my team nuts. Do we have photos for the various costume components yet? If not I wouldn't mind helping in the photoshoppery. If we do have some, could they be posted? I'd love to proofread each section and match the text up with each armor piece.

A rather easy one, but one of the few things I could think of that shows the X. The 19 has no scope, of course. The X has the scope. And the X is a triangle.

Check out this site. https://aurekfonts.github.io/?sort=license TONS!!!! of in-universe SW fonts. They're a lot of fun.

I was sneaky and edited your post to have the image. You just copy the image source (right click, copy image location if you're on a desktop) and paste it in. The forum does the rest. (Savi's Workshop, Group B )

A full phrase this time. It goes with the screenshot... It's pretty simple... Good luck!

Wow, that new helmet is SO good!!! What a huge difference. Well done in remaking that! What designer is the new one if I may ask?

Congratulations John!!! Well done!!!

That one looks really good. Their Hero version should be coming shortly. Metal rail, hollow folding stalk, and open front sight box.

Jedi hate when you call it this.

If you have a Dollar Tree nearby, their large (1 handed) kitchen strainer has the perfect mesh for hovi tips. Not sure if the other Dollar stores carry it, but the green signed Tree one does. You'll know it when you see it amongst the other strainers.

Your Prusa is kicking buttplate! Definitely nice to have a couple/few printers and not retire that good boy. The abs look great. That's a fantastic project for time away from home.

Historically it's been a stack of two IKEA LACK tables. They fit Prusa and clone printers very nicely. https://blog.prusa3d.com/cheap-simple-3d-printer-enclosure_7785/ Scroll to the end. I used to have one of these and it worked okay. You want a paver stone to set your printer on or you get a ton of resonance and noise.

Shoveling coins into little boxes and padded envelopes is more like it.