TheSwede

Just want to add that the buttons are close to the (short) edges so sand the long edges as well and that will help in getting the corners as straight as possible and you probably already had that covered but wanted to make sure

Better But if you look at the ref pic that Dan provided you`ll see that the corners are stright, that would make it perfect

Sounds right

Have you let the glue harden enough? If using E-6000 a few days is not amiss before putting the peices under pressure and adding a inner strip should be all that’s needed

I think you need to straighten it out but not 100% sure so best to ask Tony @ukswrath

There`s no way of salvage or a replacment shin?

Hey Frank, sorry to be a pain but the cover strip goes all the way up

For a helmet an RS or TM is just about the best you can get in my opinion. And at 5`6 you will definetly be able to use RS or TM for armor, there is some work yes but there`s plenty here that has downsized their kits with great sucess, here`s three examples

No need to apologize, when things are hard it`s only a good thing to ventilate and we are here for you And sorry to hear about your troubles but there are also some silver linings hiding in your words, the weight loss beeing one - good job I know it`s hard but try to focus on the good things and take one step at the time. Another good thing is you beeing a part of this Community - with friendly people who share your love for Star Wars and there`s litterly a ton of interesting stuff to dive into and keep you busy - both in good times and when you`re feeling low and once you have logged on I´m almost certain that alone will help some. The receding hairline happens to most of us and as it happens it did happen me to in my late 20s, not altogether fun when it happens but it`s just one of those things you can`t do much about except starting to accept it and in my case to make matters worse my dad has a full set of hair and he`s almost 70 - go figure And most importantly - that you shared and no one here will say it`s dumb Now - regarding the helmet, if you paid someone to build a helmet for you then you should receive a helmet or in worst case a refund. What information did you get from the vendor when approached with information that the helmet was ruined?

Looking good I will leave this to Dan @CableGuy but I`d say you are good *fingers crossed*

As long as the coverstrip looks as it should you are good, meaning covering all/most of the rasied edge

Congratulations Trooper and welcome to the ranks

Here you can see it roughly on the RS suit...I used measurements from Troopermaster, top and bottom 25mm and middle 140mm from the bottom seem to be pretty consistent with the original and as to how far in from the edge just make sure the holes are hidden by the coverstrip and not to close to the edge they pull threw, I made mine 5mm from edge to centre of hole and so far so good, the RS seem a bit further in

Good to hear They looked snug at the ankle so was worried for a bit they don`t fit when you got the boots on - that tight fit will look awesome

Keep the gaps to a minimum and you should be good From the looks of it the chest piece might benefit from coming down some and/or the ab-cod beeing raised if possible (just be sure the sides line up as well) - keep it up and stay on budget

Vocoder looks great Shins look the part to and question though, did you size them with boots on?

Hey Paul Don`t let the dream die, we are here to help Looking at the fit you would however be better of sending it back for a refund and spend it on a kit to build yourself and that would be a lot easier than trying to modify what you already have. Whatever you decide to to I wish you best of luck

Perhaps not, from the looks of it the snap just touches the corner of the bump as you can see here on the RS belt Put the canvas over the plastic belt like so and place it so the snaps resembles this Picture OR other way around and by pushing on the plastic belt find were the snaps "click right" then mark the center hole and fasten it, place the belt on the ab (snap it on) and mark the outer ones. (you can find this better explaned with pics on TM:s FB Look for hero-build)

Happy BBB-day

I just saw this - thank you Dan, most kind

Congratulations and a great post indeed

Agreed.

I think that they should be glued as L3 is meant for higher screen accuracy (unless I´m mistaking?) and the ones in the movie were glued.

I have a question: Is this correct or is that last line on L3 supposed to be on L1? Shoulder Straps For 501st approval: These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. For level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed. For level three certification (if applicable): These shall free float in back. These shall be glued in front. The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece. The rear tab of the shoulder strap is optional and may or may not be present.

Great job Andrew Easy approval in my opinion