Parquette

Yup! Won't be approvable without mods, like the Black Series Kylo Ren helmet (there are plenty of Kylo's in the 501st with this helmet modded). Just because it's a toy, doesn't mean it's not fixable for 501st. In fact it's thicker plastic than the vac formed Stormtrooper costumes in the group. So far, the Black Series is the closest thing to a R1 helmet, and just because it's a toy doesn't mean that with mods it should be excluded from the options list. If you compare it with Screen shots, there won't be much difference in sculpt. I think it should be approvable with heavy mods because it is entirely R1 based, and the sculpt isn't far off. In fact, there is 1 sculptor out there who made an incredibly fat Kylo Ren and somehow it is approvable (no offence to the maker)? It is only accurate in details, but proportion is incredibly off. I am wondering why some inaccurate sculpts are approvable for some costumes in the 501st but this really close sculpt that with mods can look like the real thing wouldn't be approvable? Then again, the off-proportion Kylo helmet was made on only a handful of ref images, but still it's extremely big and it's been approved. Speaking of which, be sure to keep an eye out for my upcoming mod posts on the BS Stormtrooper I am going to be documenting the process and proving that this is eligible for accuracy and can be approved with the right mods. And don't worry UKSwrath, I've got the speaker vent on the back in mind Give me a chance to mod this and show people that, with the right mods, can be good enough to pass basic approval. After all, we don't start CRL's with Centurion level information. Btw, could you provide a list of things for me that would keep it rom being 501st approvable? I highly agree with Daetrin. Both the FOTK and the OTTK started with slightly inaccurate armors, but they were enough for basic. Over time stuff got more complex, and it was no longer approvable without mods (at least the OTTK was). We should start out with the basic stuff first, and if it's slightly inaccurate, save it for Centurion. Again, the Black Series is really close to the R1 with a few design changes, which with mods, can look pretty good. I was mentioning about the tube stripes that they need to be cut out in order to put separate pieces of blue painted plastic underneath. Not cut them out entirely and leave them hollow

Black Series helmet update! I filed down the area I cut inside the helmet (the inside back section where the voice changer was), and ripped out the voice changer crap from the back. I messed up the lenses trying to shape them into a bubble shape with my gun (which I was successful in doing, but on 1 lens I heated for a few seconds too long), so thanks to a 501st member's suggestion, I went to Big R and bought a dark green welding visor, and cut it to the right shape. It is not m...irror lens, it's just very glossy and lights reflect well in it. Also ever so slightly see through from the outside (but from what I've seen, can't see the wearer's eyes at all, though I was checking that while wearing it). I also have the underside of the brow another plastidip coat, cause the first one messed up. Next step; figuring out what I'm going to do about the tube stripes, whatever else I need to do to mod this gem into a 501st approvable helm for Rogue One CRL, and then it's on to the speaker in the back. Sometime I'm going to gradually start working on the rest of the armor as accurate as I can. After all, no R1 CRL is out yet, and I'd like to be on the right track. Btw, 2nd pic is what the lens is like looking through the helmet from the inside.

Yup! Mentioned they are recessed for basic. In the Black series it's going to be difficult to cut out the already recessed vents, so as long as they are recessed, they should be good for basic.

{Edit! I cleaned up any mentions of manufacturers so that this could be used without recquiring too much editing.) So far, this could be a start for the basic approval guidelines in the CRL: Helmet: -Is generically symmetrical (there is the iconic bump on the bottom of the left eye (viewer's view). -Lenses are green or dark green, but are made to conceal the wearer's eyes. -Tube stripes are recessed, and painted dark blue. -The brow can vary in height, but is reccomended to stay close to the eyes. -The neck hole has black trim running along the edge. Whatever method of going about this is up to the builder, however plastidipping the edge or merely painting the edge black will not pass approval. -Matches same white as rest of armor. Chest armor: -Is symmetrical. -Is slightly long, but wide at the bottom. -Shoulder straps are inserted into some slanted slots at the shoulder area. Same goes for the back armor. The straps have etched or carved sideways lines running along them. -Is fit to the size of the wearer. Back Armor: -Is symmetrical. -Is fitting to the body type of the wearer. -The bottom sides start to curve around the wearer until they are cut off. A black plastic piece will be placed behind the end and connected to the bottom sides of the chest armor. Can be connected through snaps. -The back will have a slanted box in the middle of the back armor. The sides with the deepest slants are the top and bottom of the box. In the box will be a recessed area with some thick walled greeblies shaped like O II. On the bottom of the I I's are some sideways line indentations. -Is approximately same height as chest armor. -The straps in the slots from the chest armor will go over the wearer's shoulder, and into slots located at the shoulder area of the back armor. Abdomen Armor: -Is symmetrical and fitted to the wearer. -Has exactly 5 raised lines in the front, with a center box over the bottom of the middle line. The box has a grill on the bottom right, 4 buttons on the left (the top 3 buttons are dark grey, and the bottom button is dark blue), and above the grill at the top is a mini recessed square with a mini screen of some sorts. Above the box and almost directly below the chest armor, next to the 2 middles lines are 2 rectangular sections that have been carved out. See reference photo for details (for whenever we have one) -The ends underneath the arms have a raised end, and the ends are slanted forward towards the front of the abdomen, like so, \ -On the left of the abdomen (viewers view), in between 2 of the 5 raise lines is a sideways rectangle. -Armor extends into upper torso armor. Ammo belt: -Is entirely made of plastic, made up of 2 pieces, with the halves joining directly in the middle of the wearer's side waist. The rear half overlaps the front half's ends and attach with whatever method deemed suitable by the builder. -Has ammo boxes across the front, all of them made separately from the main belt and are secured to it. -The ammo boxes on the very left and right of the belt are more square instead of rectangular like the center ammo boxes, and the 2nd to last ammo box is a more fat rectangular shape versus the regular rectangular shape of the center boxes. -Above the thighs of the wearer are located 2 hanging ammo boxes from the ammo belt. -Is made to fit the wearer. Cod and butt armor: _ -Cod is slanted in shape, with a bump at the middle/bottom that is located in the area of the wearer's cod. The bump's top is shaped like so, / \ -From the top of the cod armor to the top of the bump is 1 raised, straight line. It is located directly in the middle of the armor. -Butt armor is made to fit the wearer, and curves around the sides of the butt, and the bottom middle has a slanted in section that extends a little bit in between the back legs. That section looks like so, \_/ -Cod and Butt armor are connected through a strap system in between the thighs of the wearer. Right now I have to go eat dinner, but will post more later. Remember, this is for basic approval, so it isn't meant to have exact measurements or anything. I am hoping that with this CRL we can be not so strict with the basic approval guidelines section. More in depth details should be reserved for Centurion and so on. Hope this helps!

Found a good reference pic. Sorry it's so large.

Starting one Hopefully I can be of help in my WIP

Yup! Referring to the last part, even then we need to still have the generic basic feel of the basic approval path. More in depth details are reserved for Centurion and so on. I would love to help in whatever way I can develop the Basic Approval guidelines with you guys if you'd like

I like your thinking I was going to modify some already existing armor (for instance, the FX chest armor). Also, the gloves are First Order styled. Actually on the hot toys it looks like the palms/thumb area of the gloves have more of a tactical feel. There is an opening on the palm of the thump with another layer of fabric underneath.

I just now noticed that in the first front pic of the DT helmet, the lights are completely sideways.

Yup! But then again, I don't mind serious modification

From what I figure, this is what I have run down on the chest armor. Modified FX chest armor can be used for the R1 chest armor in basic, seeing as it's much sharper/a little longer than your normal traditional armor. If you widen the sides slightly with a heatgun (or steam), it would look better and should be allowed to pass basic (seeing as the much pickier details are reserved for Centurion and such). I would like to be able to build this costume, but mainly my budget isn't very vast, and somewhat around the budget of my CRL guided Kylo (above $500 but below $1,000). So the FX chest piece seemed like the best option, and might be able to save me some money. I don't have the money to buy much better kits sadly, so I'll have to go this route.

The gloves are already proven to be the same style as the FOTK. Here's a pic from celebration. However, the Hot toys is wrong about the front trim on the Thigh pieces. The trim isn't indented at the sides, its 1 trim on top of another layer built into the thigh.

Something else I'm planning on doing is replacing the black part behind the teeth of the mouth with actual wire screening. I thought I heard somewhere that that is present, but I could be wrong. If it's true, I'm doing it xD

(Edit, whoops! Made 2 of the same kind of post)

Yup! Saw that! I figure I can "move along" the journey, seeing as no one has commented on that topic in a while Once I'm done with this, if no CRL has been put out yet, I'm thinking of submitting my research/build for approval of both a CRL, and an approved costume (much like the way other costumes came about in the 501st). Any advice as to where I should go for sourcing some parts? As mentioned, I'm really eyeing the FX chest armor, seeing as the R1 trooper's chest piece is straighter/a little bit longer in the chest area. With modifications (updating the straps with R1 straps, modifying the lower area that extends to under the arms, repainting to match BS Helmet color, etc...), and I can't afford many other armorers, so I am going to make what I can with plastic sheets, and source some things. Someone found this, which is an excellent close enough that should pass basic approval for the undersuit. Someone discovered on both here and elsewhere that the gaskets are cloth and not rubber, which is what led me to this. If I could get 2 of those, I could use one for the visible areas of the pants, and the other for the torso undersuit. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142156105914 You can also see the vertical ribs underneath the arm on the Sideshow R1 trooper. This sweater is much more accurate than I though! Only mod needing to be made would be adding the net mesh material in the arm pit area, like in the picture.

BS mod update! I painted the underside of the brow with plastidip, because white plastic was taking up about half the underside, when the R1 helmet is much thicker looking. The plastidip works perfectly and it feels like the brow too! I angled the helmet in the last pic to match the middle stormtrooper (closest one) in the ref image I have below. looking. The plastidip works perfectly and it feels like the brow too! See the trooper in the middle? That's the look that the Black Series is best achieving (unless you want to struggle with trying to separate the brow from the plastic). Next list of things to do is: Heat the lenses and give them a slight bubble shape (someone pointed out the bubble shape on the Facebook R1 Trooper Armory page), then put another lens plastic behind that is more green, and can conceal the wearer's eyes without someone seeing them. Then it's on to other things like carving out the side vents so I can place blue painted plastic underneath (like the actual helmets), filling up the speaker/battery compartment in back with a batch of ABS paste (the helmet is ABS), and drilling out all the tiny holes in the speakers in front. Because they are molded grills, they don't have actual grills, nor do I have the patience to put grills in. I will hallow out all the areas in the grill, and hopefully it should like like an actual speaker. Luckily, the speakers themselves are hallow, so this should work more or less. I want to see if I can do this without having to repaint the entire helmet, which is why I am going to ABS paste route for filled the speaker. What's nice is that with sanding, this white doesn't go away. You can barely even see the sanded areas. Also here is what I have done to the inside. I've cut most of the back plastic wall that keeps your head from touching the speaker/battery compartment. It was restricting room, and not accurate, so I cut most of it out (without cutting the areas that hold the helmet together).

Im planning on dropping all DT projects and starting fresh with an accurate R1 TK. Hopefully after I'm 18 (1 year from now) and a 501st CRL comes out I can submit I'd like to take this opportunity to help develop the R1 CRL with the 501st, if everyone is on board with that, seeing as no one else has made an R1 TK. If someone could direct me to who I should talk to about that that'd be great. I am going to document my build/mods to the BS helmet to make it SA with pictures and research/ref images (c'mon, it's a R1 sculpt. It'll work), and then submit once finished to 501st (because I am going to take my time about this one, it may be submitted by the time a CRL comes out. Just thought I'd contribute). Hopefully the information in this thread will be of use to the 501st and the development of the CRL. My first plan of action was to gut the enterior, cut pieces, take out electronics, the works. Now before people say this isn't 501st accurate, let me tell you this matches pretty fair with the R1, and it should be approvable for an R1 CRL with mods (fixing blue recessed area, filling speaker up, fixing the white underside of the brow, neck hole, etc...) The Kylo Ren BS helmet is approvable with mods (many Kylo's in the 501st including myself use the BS helmet modded), and so is the EFX Standard ANH Helmet (heavy weapons trooper is fine apparantly), likewise the BS Stormtrooper should be with mods. That's why I'm having a go with submitting this once finished Anyhow, I acquired this BS Stormtrooper helmet recently, and have a gutted the enterior, taken off the back half of the neck hole trim (because it didn't line up with the chin trim), and I am planning on building the entire armor and hoping on submitting to the ...501st when a CRL comes out Now before people say "but it's not accurate," well let me tell you, it's not ANH, it's an R1 Based bucket, so it should work fine. Besides if 501st members can get approved with an EFX modded helmet, then this should work fine for R1 (especially since it's pretty close and modeled after R1).So crossing fingers, and start modding this bucket! So I already mentioned a few of the mods I have done. Planning ahead for the future, I solved the chest armor mystery. I can't make that out of plastic signs easily (which is my home method for making armor), but it looks very similar to the FX armor. The beast section is lower than the original armor, like the FX. The FX is also sharper sculpted, so while making new shoulder straps, it should work for 501st once a CRL is made. I also may have to extend the area of the chest armor under the arm. I'm assuming it's slightly different from the original armor. The 2nd pic shows both the brow trim and chest armor. This pic shows the eligibility of the FX armor. With mods to make it more curved, along with extending the side areas that go under the arm and into the attachment that connects the front and back armor pieces, this could work.

For those of you who cant fit into the BS Stormtrooper helmet: I noticed that there are screws for the fat interior of the helmet. They did the same thing with the Kylo Ren helmet. You can unscrew it and take it out I'm pretty sure. Though I don't have one, but this is something I saw in pics.

Pst, it's a Rogue One Stormtrooper.... Another modification will have to be done to the trim for the brow. It's not thick, or black enough (underside) for it to be a proper Rogue One helm. I'm also pretty sure it needs to be a fraction lower to the eyes. That, and the brow isn't tapered.

Jim I will say that I am very impressed by your armor making! I've only gotten so far on my DT, but you whipped this Shore Trooper up decently fast! Keep it up, and definately keep updating the shore trooper

Oh ok my apologies! I thought I read you saying that is was supposedly a Death Trooper helmet (which they should do come to think of it).

Really? Where did you hear that? That sounds amazing

So I discovered that the military also has V rings on their tactical belts. I found out this by looking on eBay and I found some close enoughs, but they weren't SA enough. My Dad pulled out a belt he had and the belt buckle is nearly perfect. I'm not sure how wide it should be, but the shape/proportions look just right. The only difference is that it is rounded and black. All that needs to be done is removing the center adjusting bar, and then painting it aluminum with Rustoleum (?). I posted to the R1 Trooper Armoury group on Facebook, and they led me to a company called Condor, saying that their belts are much cheaper (this belt is expensive apparantly), so I may shoot for those. If you look them up on eBay, you can find it ("Condor Tactical Belt"). I'm still needing to track down the buckles. Marktoots, do you by any chance have a link to the buckles? I searched them on eBay, but with no results. Also, does anyone have pics of how these 2 buckles are connected? I can't figure out how it's going to work, and also do these go on TOP of the straps of the DT, or do they actually serve as buckles for them?

Do you know where these can be bought? the Bay has zero results :'(

Whoops! My apologies. For some odd reason when I saw this I assumed it was for the Death Trooper. My bad!