R2Dan

Here's another idea: Take split rivet in your right hand. Open window. Throw the split rivet up in front of you. Switch on handheld fan in your left hand. Hold fan so the rivet will be hit by the air flow when it comes back down (timing and coordination is tricky, I know) Watch how the rivet gets fanned out the window! Here's an illustration: ---------- Then go get some brads and bend them using your fingers

You're mixing up PT and VT here. Two different guys

"Uncle Owen, the water tank has leaked again" "Well Luke, you know what that means... at least another season for you"

you might want to give this a read--------

it's masking fluid - means you mask the areas you don't want to get painted and paint over the masking fluid once it's dry. When the paint is dry, you can simply pull off the masking fluid, revealing the layer beneath. You can get the same effect with tooth paste or mustard, but the masking fluid will be more precise and you can actually brush it on Oh and it won't affect your lower layer, mustard might stain it.

Maskol by Humbrol is purple

I actually used brads on my torso as I couldn't source any split rivets... and I just swapped them out! Oh the irony...

err, John... he's having issues getting them to close! Cutting away even more won't help much

You want to go for the Luke look but not cut the chest? Err... so you're not going for the Luke look, right?

In my humble opinion, AM is to be avoided for any kind of screen-representation. It's after all a fan sculpt that is rather loosely based on what we see on screen, so making it either ANH or ROTJ is pretty unrealistic. It's more the generic "looks kinda like a Stormtrooper" costume kit, rather than "the one kit for the accuracy nut". CFO is your best bet, if you REALLY want a ROTJ Trooper. If you just want to put on some trim and overpaint the teeth on an FX bucket, there are other options

Do a search for Ainsworth or Shepperton here and you will find A LOT to read about him. In a nutshell: His claims are false and you'd get a mediocre and waaaay overpriced umpteenth generation TE recast suit with a distorted helmet. Do some research on here and you'll find way better suits to spend your money on!

You could have at least chosen a focussed picture mate... I voted for you as you asked nicely. If I had found this site on my own your Boba wouldn't have blown me away though.

T Cut ist eine Politur, die "schneidende" Poliersteinchen beinhaltet, im Endeffekt trägt die also die oberste Lackschicht im Feinschliff ab. Ähnliche Produkte gibt es auch bei uns

I just painted my alternative style handguards (yep they arrived today, thanks Karin!) with Plastidip, great stuff

sorry mate, I can't help it. Everytime I click on this thread it's facepalm time. I'm glad you could sort of fix it, but man...

the ROTJ lid is a CFO as far as I can tell.

It is a tad longer, yeah, but I think the hypefirm has the endcap pushed in a little. I know that the dimensions on the metal blaster come from a real Sterling (saw the real one right next to the replicas), but it might be a few mms off, I don't know.

I'm not saying they were entirely hollow, just a little thinner on the edges, as in the latex was pooling up at the edge of the mould and then dropping off a little towards the center.

Okay, just went through all my stuff (production pics, screen grabs) and the only TK with a distinct "knuckle" pattern I could find is the one you showed there lying down (and I can only see it on the one hand really, the other looks pretty much straight). Everyone else seems to have either a straight edge or some sort of wavy, but irregular pattern there, which could be a casting issue rather than an actual feature... or am I totally off here?! Here's my best of "no knuckles":

Looking through my reference folder, I'm starting to doubt this was an actual feature, but more of an oddity. They're never the same size or in the same place, most Troopers don't have them at all as far as I can see. Maybe it really was just them cutting off some flashing here and there?

I have cut latex thicker than that - people who build masks do it all the time. All you need is the right pair of scissors. Sadly my old handplates don't have the needed thickness at the front, or I'd show you... If you look at the supersize Hero picture, you can see that there is a faint "wavy" line on the handguard where the indents would be, but no knuckles cut, and it looks very dark beneath. I'm sure I've seen another pic were it looked like the weren't completely solid, still looking for it though. you could cut those out with scissors easily, on the other hand, you'd probably get a more tidy result with a dremel... but are we really looking for a tidy solution here?

my explanation for this is: They weren't cast solid and the knuckles were simply cut into the thinner "return edge" at the front. But, hey, that's just me

And just for the heck of it, two shots comparing it to my Hyperfirm E-11:

Here's the promised pic of the scope (you can actually screw out the bearing and remove the lens )

Sounds ace - I'll be a little more patient, but just a little!!!