Jump to content

R2Dan

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Posts

    759
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by R2Dan

  1. Pretty sure that has to do with your gut, not the armour assembly.
  2. If you're ready to drop the cash, he'll sign whatever you want.
  3. There's a thread on this already: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30267-celebration-vii-c7-whos-going/ As to your last question: There is tons you can do. Apart from the obvious (spending cash on merch), you get to meet fellow fans from all around the globe. There are always panels and talks going on, be it the guest stars or just fans talking about their passion (collector panels, behind the scenes stuff, etc). Then there are all the lifesize props you can pose with and get cool pictures taken. There is so much going on, you won't be able to do it all!
  4. Who would use Loctite to try and remove paint? I think you meant to say something else
  5. I would rather say it is as close to an idealised representation of what we see on screen while still being within the 501st regulations. You can get much closer to the original suits than Centurion suggests/allows.
  6. As "working guidelines" for attaches, this is clearly helpful. But calling it a how to and posting it here to me seemed both very "narrow minded" and a bit pointless, as in "preaching to the choir". I guess I'm splitting hairs here, but the title just reads so absolute.
  7. I'm not saying someone would want to, I'm saying it is a valid way to get your TK without any detachment involvment whatsoever and it will still get you into the 501st. Say someone sees the RS guys at a convention, orders a fully finished suit and then joins the 501st. Then nothing from points 1 to 7 would have happened, but the goal would be achieved. Or your best mate wants to join and you help him by getting him a kit, you build it together, he joins the 501st. Done, again, in a very different way than shown in this list. The thread suggests the only way of being "succesful" in your application would be following these steps laid out in the first post, while it clearly is not. That's all I'm saying
  8. This may be one way to get there, but it certainly isn't the only one. Everything up to point 8 is optional and/or could be achieved in different ways, for example "know someone who's already approved who helps you get a costume without any involvment of the FISD" or "Find a supplier who builds an application ready costume for you". Plus all the other options, it's impossible to list them all.
  9. They did offer them at Jedi Con here in Germany as well. Got mine there
  10. This ain't amazon prime, guys! The sooner you understand how this hobby works, the better. It will save you and the suppliers a lot of grief!
  11. I'm coming over with the guys from RS Props! Sadly without armour, but it's still going to be a blast So can't wait. First time visiting the US for me, too.
  12. I agree. The boys did a great job. One suggestion: The RS guys tend to leave a little extra meat on the abdomen sides. As you seem rather slim, we can see it overlap with the kidney plate (there's a faint bend in the ab piece indicating the added meat that is not on the original. I'm pretty sure you could do without it, making the armour a little more accurate even. It's a simple enough mod, all you need is aa pair of strong scissors and maybe a bit of sandpaper
  13. Well, your elastic that goes across the shoulder opening is not in the proper (read: screen accurate) position. If it were, your hooks wouldn't do anything, cause they'd just be about two inches above the elastic. Plus with the connection to the shoulder, I don't see why you'd need a second one that stops it from riding too low. Overkill, in my humble opinion. Especially since I can't see anything wrong with Adam's arms here.
  14. But not so high that they sit beneath the ab plate. I do agree though, the biceps hooks were clearly not a common feature, and don't work for everyone either.
  15. You probably should do the screen accurate mod and cut out the back on your thighs and shins. It makes a world of a difference!
  16. Now does that continue with a "y" or "st"? It says "NEWEY/VINTAGE" and contains just that... old snaps, hooks, some vintage elastic. Crap noone wants
  17. Tried again. Took a random pic of a stack of cap'n'backs. The outer and innermost are PVC, the middle two ABS
  18. if it is, it's minimal and down to variance of the pulls, not the material. What the picture doesn't show clearly, but might affect how sharp the pull looks: The PVC is a lot more glossy in real life, so light reflects differently.
  19. It's really tough to capture the colour difference on camera, this is the best I could do: left is PVC, right is ABS
  20. Personally, I'm all for prop forgery. I just love the mojo of the originals, and if I can capture some of it in my replicas, I'm happy. However, I do differentiate between 501st/costuming and props/replication, and realise they're not entirely compatible. Yet my RS PVC trooping suit is a pretty accurate build, it's not all clean either, trying to capture the Tantive IV look - I guess a lot of you would already put it in the prop replica category. But I know there's still a lot of room for improvement, been collecting parts for a proper replica for years now. So while some of you "idealists" would shake your head seeing my trooping suit, my "extremist" self isn't exactly happy with it yet. It's fine for trooping, but it's not my ultimate suit. It all comes down to Obi Wan: it's all true, from a certain point of view
  21. I have both kits at home, I can try and take a picture of the colour difference tomorrow. It's nighttime now, doubt I can take a picture that really shows the difference without daylight.
  22. I have built several of both, and have trooped both ABS and PVC for years. After those years, I can tell you they both behave quite similar in a standard trooping environment. The PVC is a little more flexible, but breaks easier on impact. The ABS takes hits better, but will crack more if flexed. But in the end, if you don't do weird stunts (be it willingly or accidentally) you'll have the same areas cracking on both (cod piece, edges on the chest mainly). The main question you'll have to answer is: Do you want something pure white and glossy? Go PVC. Want something more screen accurate, shiny, but not as glossy, and slightly off white? Go ABS.
  23. Yeah. The Falcon is one of my favourite pieces. Took years to hunt it down (after missing out on the sale just before MR went bust... still can't believe I let that opportunity slip by). It is a true centrepiece! Back to the lid: Thanks for all the praise guys Since I'm stuck at home at the moment with not much chance to be productive, I keep staring at my prop stuff, thinking of what could be improved - which is not the worst thing to do, to be honest. With this lid though, I'm pretty confident there's not much more I can do! Anyway, here's another artsy fartsy, filtered shot of that beauty, just because:
  24. No, it's not. It's a custom mix that matches the tube stripe colour on the hero lid eFX had access to, but I was asked not to share. Sorry.
  25. Sure. I used Duplicolor Aerosol Art RAL 9010 gloss white over Duplicolor metal primer (the only red primer I can find at the DIY store ) That's the stuff:
×
×
  • Create New...