kman

Yup. Chicago screws. Use a bit of thread lock, too, so they don't accidentally loosen over time.

A q-tip will work eventually, but it's hard to be precise with a q-tip on an area so small. I agree with gmrhodes13 that a toothpick is probably a more precise tool if you're ONLY looking to remove overspray. Personally, I find it easier to just remove the majority of the paint entirely, using a cotton ball. (it takes a long time, but it WILL come off) Then repaint. You don't have to worry about removing every last bit from the center, since they'll be painted over, just at the edges where you want NO paint.

FWIW, I'm also 6'3" with the same armor, so I know what you mean. Although I think your arms are a little longer than mine. IMO there's nothing wrong with the "elbow gap" you have there. There are people with far, far worse... I believe that's who the comments are addressing. That said, yours could be reduced, if you wanted, by lowering the bicep armor. It doesn't need to tuck quite as far up into the shoulder bell.

I concur, although I'm not sure that exact wording works. Elbows are funny, and the armor is even stranger. Perfect armor has a "gap", arguably, so I'd want to clarify exactly what is meant, here. This is aimed at n00bs, not armor experts who know exactly what we're referring to when we say "elbow gap", and what we're NOT referring to.

Home Depot or Lowe's, usually.

The millimeter language was removed, in case you missed that. Body shape and size is not a "convenient excuse". But there was a discussion of adding something about it to another section, which could be added. When was the last time someone actually tried to get approved with a Master Replica helmet? Is this a real concern?

I concur with Joseph's comments on CableGuy's recap. And yes, I think mention of the existence of correct brow spacing is good to have in the CRL, so people building know what to aim for. Keep the "Ideally" language in there, but for someone trying to go it alone, and looking at the wrong helmet for "screen used inspiration" it sucks to get that wrong, when it's so simple to steer them in the right direction. Then no one is excluded, but they have some proper guidance they don't have to dig for.

Huh? I’m already EIB with the TK, so clearly HWT is up next.

Let's see, for L2 I need to meet the following requirements (ignoring duplicative regular ANH-Stunt requirements that I've already met for EIB): First off, all regular TK parts should be "lightly scuffed,(battle worn), but not weathered like a Sandtrooper (TD)." So I won't repeat that for each armor part, because that's duplicative typing and I have better things to do with my life: Pauldron: Pauldron is of the padded "puffy" variety. DONE Gloves: Black rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves. DONE Backpack: Backpack is lightly scuffed and battle worn, but not heavily weathered or dirty. Belt: Canvas belt may not have visible holes from holster removal. MAYBE DONE? T-21 Light Repeating Blaster Rifle: A ribbed length of tubing shall be installed over the front of the gun barrel. DONE A canvas, leather, or nylon sling shall be attached. DONE Sight shall be present on top where ribbing meets base. DONE That's all the differences needed, between my already-met ANH-S EIB requirements, and HWT Level 2 requirements. I'm curious: When did rubber gloves become a Level 2 requirement? As it happens, I do already have a pair ready to go, as part of my "some day" Centurion application, but did that move from L3 to L2 at some point? I'll have to look to see if the holes from my holster removal are visible. I think they're covered by the ammo pouch, but if not, I might need to pick up another belt. But assuming my belt is ok, I think the ONLY thing I need for L2 is the weathering. In that case, I'll ponder a bit on which removable weathering style I want to use, and get it done, and take some pics! Unless there's something else I missed?

Thanks, all! As part of my promise to share, I have links here to all the 3D printed parts that I used in creating the pack. They can be downloaded, printed (you can Print yourself, from various vendors via Thingiverse with just a click, or save the model and upload it to Shapeways, etc.). Or if you know Fusion360 you can have direct access to the models, where you can copy them into your own account for tweaking to your needs. These models should work well without any need for modification, for anyone using the recommended configuration in UKsWrath's HWT Pack build thread: The Pop-It plastic storage set (generic Tupperware, essentially) from Amazon, the Photo box from Michael's, generic baby wipes (those should mostly be the same size, or close enough to still work), and a cup with similar faceting to the one I used. If you're using different base materials, obviously they'll need to be tweaked to fit your exact base boxes, or possibly won't work at all without extensive remodeling. I'll probably make a few design refinements here and there as I go forward (the screw holes are a little small, for one thing, and I have a couple of other tweaks noted below), but since my pack is done and approved at this point, I don't really plan to make any substantial changes. Feel free to ask, but no promises. I do kinda have a hankering to make the side panel for the radio box, which would be really simple to whip out. I'll update this post when I finish that, of course. Thingiverse Project link (project includes all parts): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3331824 THE PARTS: Faceted Mount: (for the cup assembly bottom right, holds the facets cup in place at a slight angle so it comes down more flat on the pack): Fusion360 link to model: https://a360.co/2F2Cpff Cylinder Mount: (for the baby wipes container top center... I'll probably make a second part to this for the inside, to hold it even more firmly with less movement) Fusion360 link to model: https://a360.co/2FaIOE2 Button Panel: (for the XE-41 Pop-It box top left... you'll still need to glue rubber bumpers to this, although I suppose if there are enough requests I could model plastic ones right onto the plate) Fusion360 link to model: https://a360.co/2TsxYNP Vent Panel: (for the XE-51 Pop-It box top right... you'll need to glue the separate slats from the following model in place) Fusion360 link to model: https://a360.co/2Tsz6B3 Vent Panel Slats: (for the Vent Panel on the XE-51 Pop-it box top right... print 6 of these) Fusion360 link to model: https://a360.co/2ToGcGD Arch Panel: (for the XE-61 Pop-It box center right) Fusion360 link to model: https://a360.co/2TqcFw6 Radio Box Plate: (For the Michael's Photo Box bottom left. Note: depending on your printer's size, you may need to split this into 2 parts, as I did for mine.) Fusion360 link to model: https://a360.co/2F79Kor I'll copy all of this info into a separate thread, as well, perhaps one in the 3D forum in addition to (or instead of?) here.

APPROVED. Woohoo! Costume #6 for the 501st is DONE. (well, never done, but... LOL) https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=20931&costumeID=122 Now I gotta talk to my GWL about getting those roster photos updated...

That falls into "prop replication" category, for me. So no. LOL If you're not using screen-accurate internal rigglng (the wire hoops... I prefer snaps), and not recreating every single little thing that happened with on-screen suits, visible or not, I don't see the point of that particular mod. Your point is taken, though, because I certainly know people who try to do just that! I suspect more are just hacking it out of the way, though, because they saw someone else do it that way, and don't even realize they're emulating an emulation of on-screen hackery.

I doubt it would affect approval. It'd bug the heck out of me, though! LOL

I'm not sure why some people feel the need to notch their elastic, but perhaps they're using thicker elastic than I did? My drop boxes loop around, and are held in place with some E6000. (or, were, see below) That held them perfectly in place for 2+ years. I recently removed the drop boxes to convert to HWT, but I'll be re-attaching them so I can switch back and forth. I plan to use Velcro this time around, so the boxes stay put (in terms of sliding around) but can easily be removed and reattached as needed. Just one 4" strip up the back of the belt, top to bottom, for maximum hold.

I really like my Dickies Eisenhower jacket. Quite popular around SoCal, since it doesn't get cold very much of the year.

You might look at Shear Tech. Very popular option for rubber E11s (widely considered the best option for trooping) in the UK. Local UKG guy makes them. Best way to reach them is via their FB page, as I understand it. He responded to my last round of questions same day.

Nice work on that side panel! I've been debating adding that to mine. I might do that, but it'll have to wait until after I hear back on approval, since it's already been submitted at this point.

That's impressive for a 3D print! Edit: Ah-Ha! "Rayabear" is Blastermaster, he mentions in the comments. That explains it. Blastermaster's 3D printed blasters are quite nice. Way more work than I'm willing to put into a blaster, when there are so many other options, but for those who enjoy the build process as much as owning it, these are outstanding.

ATA is among the standard sized armors I listed in my post, above. As such, you're correct that's it's not a very good match for someone 6'4" or taller. Standard size armor can usually be made to fit people up to 6'2", maybe 6'3", but even that depends a lot on individual proportions. Any taller than 6'3", and there's really no chance it's going to work without some pretty drastic alterations. (splitting the cod to add a shim behind the belt can help) And even then, it's not going to fit those troopers as well as armor designed for someone their size will. I strongly encourage anyone over 6'1", really, to start considering the larger armor makers. (Of which are there two, at this time) Over 6'3" and you really should not be considering standard size armor as a viable option, unless you're really desperate and willing to put in a lot of work... and live with comprises on the outcome, no matter how much work you put into it.

If he's the same person I'm thinking of, he asked in the Anovos FB group as well, and I pointed him in the direction of the guy who used to do runs. It's a custom mix paint. Expensive, too, relatively speaking, but you don't need a lot just for shims and such. It works well:

That's what I get for multitasking with alphabet soup LOL! Thx for the catch.

Anovos is not available (ignore their "pre-order" baloney) so they're not really in the discussion. And again, I make it work (barely) at 6'3" but there are compromises, and it definitely wouldn't do well for anyone even a little taller than me. AP, TM, RS, and ATA are all pretty much standard size armor, along with TM. (other than the longer shins TM has available, the rest of their kit is standard size) RT-Mod and AM are really the only two who cater to larger and/or taller troopers. Other kits can usually be made to work, but there will always be drawbacks and compromises.

Re pack straps, you might consider something like what I just did with mine. Ignoring strap width questions, just regarding the attachment to the pack. Mine is simple, awfully close to free, extremely easy, and very robust. Good combo, if I do say myself. LOL

Unfortunately I have been seeing reports of this a lot lately, much more than usual. Not sure what exactly is going on with RT right now. If you’re in any sort of a hurry, I would just go with AM. Just because RT has an edge definitely doesn’t make AM a bad choice. And you’ll be trooping in armor a whole lot sooner!

If memory serves, AP is pretty standard sized armor. As such, it'll fit some taller people but not others... all depends on your proportions, and how perfectly you want it to fit. Personally, I'm 6'3", 220#, and fit Anovos armor (also standard size, so very comparable to AP in terms of size), but barely. I had to add shims to accommodate my extra girth (Mmmm, beer), the chest / ab overlap can be tricky and needs to be tended to carefully on every troop, and there is more of a gap between thighs and knees than for shorter troopers. These are the standard things bigger guys have to deal with, when trying to fit standard sized armor. RT-Mod and AM are specifically made to accommodate larger troopers. They're sized up a bit, and have extra material on the size so side shims are rarely needed. From my understanding, RT-Mod can handle taller troopers (like 6'8" for instance) a bit better, and AM can handle wider troopers a bit better, but either will be a huge improvement for a larger trooper (no matter which direction(s) they're larger) compared to standard sized armor.