cjdesign

I managed to get a hold of a DD's kit. Has anybody noticed the rear sight on the doopy's kit is facing the wrong way? The striations on the sight should be facing the rear of the blaster, per my real sterling and unfortunately so is the sight/hole that is used to secure the scope rail screw. I can simply rotate 180 but the striations will be facing forward. I've seen some build that do this as a fix?

Service with a smile!!

Yes, the biceps are build in the same manner as the forearms. Some people cut away the inner return edges to prevent chafing. I left them in place. To each his own. If you are unsure just leave them, you can always trim down later.

You are correct....i'm thinking centurion. The other suggestions are valid though eg. The chest bottom has a really weird cut at the bottom, the sides of the back piece were cut way too far in. Look at the CRL for chest bottom curve and back side edge reference. The back is missing a lot of material. You may need to use shims to build up more material. The butt/kidney and cod look a little low to me, if raised, this will close the gap between the back and kidney plates. Hope that helps...

You have the AM version 1.0. The FX helmet (not accepted at all), chest and back are not accepted for centurion. The AM 2.0 kit is accepted for all levels. Try reaching out to Trooper Gear for 2.0 replacements. You could always sell it and reinvest in another kit? Good luck!

you can always remove more material if needed... error on the larger size.

This was taken from my build thread... hope this helps. How do I go about fitting the forearms and biceps? Alignment: You are keeping the return edge on the tops of the bi-cep and forearm, so align the tops first before taping. The bottoms will most likely NOT line up. That's OK. The bottom return edges will get trimmed off and you can file them even later on.... I preferred trimming down the return edges slightly before actually making any fittings or cuts. Once assembled you can taper the remaining return edge to match both sides. I think you get a better sizing when the return edges are actual size and have less overlap. Fitting: Wrap the Left & Right pieces together, secure with blue tape. Adjust as needed. The armor should fit snug but not tight and have a nice taper. Don't forget to leave enough room to squeeze your hand through the wrist opening. Keep in mind the pieces should be large enough to accommodate flexed muscles. During this process, you may get abrasions on your hands from putting the armor on and off. Marking & Cutting: Once you are satisfied with the fit. it's time to mark the cut line with a pencil. The final cuts will be positioned inline with the center line of your forearm and or bicep. You may need to angle the cut (center to center) to match the taper of your piece. Error on the side of making the cut too big. You can always file down for a perfect fit. I made a single pencil mark on the outer edge of both pieces, simultaneously, to indicate the cutting mark locations. I lined up the pencil marks with my metal ruler and taped the ruler in place. Using the ruler as a guide, gently make the first pass with the blade - I used an Ex-acto blade for all my cuts. I repeated this process 2-3 times to assure a deep enough cut and clean edge. TIP: For a cleaner crisp edge... gently bend the abs along the entire cut/seam, and then snap apart as one piece. Separating the plastic in sections may create a jagged edge. Other notes: • The cover strips for the forearm and bicep should be around 15mm wide. • The bicep with the spoon is the left. • The forearm with the curve and 12 dimples is on the right. • The biceps are shaped like a race track and may need heat (via a heat gun) to shape better.

That site is real convincing... The best and Original Stormtrooper armour, handmade by the original prop maker himself, Andrew Ainsworth. Cast from the original moulds used for A New Hope, our original range is all individually made and is the closest you can get to owning one of the Original Stormtrooper armours used on-screen.

read this... it's scootch's armor. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26383-cap-tk-armor-kit-on-ebay/

bad link...

Thanks for the advice... if I build a real semi-auto gun out of it, it will be locked up in a gun safe. Right now it's still a parts kit, so it's a moot point.

here they are on amazon... Dritz Mini Anorak Snaps & Tools Kit - Blk Oxy -12mm -10 Ct http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-Mini-Anorak-Snaps-Tools/dp/B00CO67CA4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1448646106&sr=8-2&keywords=mini+anorak+snaps JoAnn's Fabric store or any other fabric store should have them as well.. good luck. FYI they come in Black onyx, chrome, and few other finishes. I used gun metal/dark on all snaps. I also used these cap rivets to attach the canvas belt to the front ammo piece. 7mm Gunmetal Round Double Cap Rapid Rivet https://www.etsy.com/listing/87374880/50pcs-7mm-gunmetal-round-double-cap?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_supplies-commercial-low-other&utm_custom1=a5137673-8567-4bbc-ae9e-0129ba31243b&gclid=Cj0KEQiAm-CyBRDx65nBhcmVtbIBEiQA7zm8lSgCV3d3CcvCRfPvCe_FY796Ke0a8l2jtIEIeaY_jUEaAvzV8P8HAQ

This is exactly why...

Is the 501st and detachment considered a partner?

amen!!

rivet the ABS front to the canvas belt using 7mm dual cap. Use anorak mini snaps, not tandy type, to keep the belt horizontal on the armor.

Important Note: Trooperbay's youtube example of measuring and placing the snaps in a predetermined position on the ab plate first will not work with the AM 2.0 armor configuration. It may work for another manufacturer's armor but not mine. Make sure the female snap is placed somewhere within the first ammo indentation/recession OR the belt will not sit flat against the plastic ammo piece. Trooper bays' example had me outside the sweet spot and I had to re-drill the holes and set new snaps once again. Complete the snaps on the belt first, then transfer the placement of the snaps over to the AB plate. The dropbox strapping should loop around the belt and align between the 7mm rivet and mini snap. Don't forget to feed the dropboxes through the belt before setting the outer rivets.

where? it's like a sea of threads... and my eye is drawn to each one of em. lol!

Thanks anyway! I actually have them already, just looking for another set. I ordered some scope screws from the link above, that look similar to cheese head, named Fillister head. I'll see if they fit the bill - 5/16 seems about right. I'll start from there.. mahalo! Thanks for the lens.

my bad... not the eyepiece. I'm referring to the screws that attached the front lens to the scope housing where the prisms are. there are two sets of screws that hold the housing together. 3x 1inch+ and 3x 5/16 screws.

Thanks Ian... I have original screws to measure but like you say the thread size is the tricky. I figured I can start with the 6-48. I'm 90% sure they are size 6 after visiting my local hardware store. They had size 6 sheet metal screws, but not the correct thread.

After further investigation ... they look very similar to Fillister head slotted which is a common scope screw type and "cheese head like" ------------ I"ll purchase a couple and see if the 6 - 48 "5/16 size doesn't fit my scope.

Looking for the screws that attach the front eye piece to the body of the scope. Does anybody have the actual screw sizes? I think they are referred to as "cheese head?" screws but he sure about the thread size, etc.

it was for the masses... I'm not going to buy, just an illustration of legal sterling builds out there. He says he welds a 1 inch pipe into the receiver, and basically builds a bapty.

Thanks!! Getting closer to the diameter of my sterling... but the hole marks are off. So far Aaron's plans are more accurate but larger coming at 5.25 Zeroroom Quote 38.1mm Tube Template LETTER Paper Letter.38mm.TubeTemplate.pdf 557.03KB 441 downloads I printed out at 103.5% it matched ok and usable.