cjdesign

Scope Install:

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Final Stock Install: I used a rubber mallet to lightly set the real sterling stock onto the hobbie tubing. Gluing the original caps in place.

Thanks Fellas!

Thank you sir... I appreciate the kind words. Especially, coming from one of the FISD masters. To your point, I hope others will find this thread useful in the future. Cheers!

By a stroke of luck, I was able to obtain a real rs prop master pugman cast from the original mould. Here is my version compared to the RS propmaster.

final coat of flat black:

Cheers! Trying to replicate the super weathered finish on my sterling parts kit. Some areas the paint is completely worn away. Really happy with the result though.

Finished with wrinkle paint. waited 24 hours for the paint to cure. rub off latex masking...

Using sterling parts kit as a guide for latex masking....

Mask out t-tracks, in preparation for the final crackle coat...

Using same painting technique mentioned above... I painted the receiver a medium rust brown and painted the t-tracks black.

The homestretch... Finally getting around to finishing my build. Discovered a vendor on etsy that makes some really nice parts for e-11. 100% cast from original and the plastic is very sturdy and feels solid. I've purchased new parts to replace the ones I had previously 3d printed from a fisd member and will add to this build. The first step was to insert the new sight dovetail block...

The parts & greeblies aren't 100% accurate so trying to eyeball the best I can. Thanks for your support Tino!

Thank you DanI This has been a fun build. Feel the same way about filling in on the gaps and cutting off all the details. One reason why I thought this thread could be useful, because unless it's archived somewhere.. I've never seen a "promo" pugman build on FISD.

Trigger: Once the e6000 cured, the metal trigger was securely attached to the grip, I finally glued in the trigger trying to match the placement from my reference photos.

Metal Trigger Guard: The resin trigger guards that came with both DDs and PPs kits are very flimsy. Although, the back of the trigger gets filled with putty and will strengthen, I want the build to be rock solid and trigger needs to be 100% non flexible. Going with an aluminum version. I originally created this for my first dds build. Note: The actual sterling trigger guard has a slight taper, in this promo version, I made this 12mm wide all the way down - no taper

Scope: The gray scope that came with the Phoenix Props kit was almost mint. No bubbles and beautiful cast to boot, saving this for another build. I have a small collection of various scopes i've acquired through the years so i used one of my rough versions without cleanup. The bottom front of the scope base is thicker and wider on the "promo" blaster than the original. Need to fill in the front with some putty.

Once the gaps in the stock were filled and smoothed, I can finally glue the magazine receiver and bayonet retainer to the body of the blaster with CA glue. Glue "goalpost" greeblie. Slightly off center (closer to the front) between arrows and ammo receiver. Bottom edge of GP greeblie is inline with center of arrow greeblies.

Sand and glue the Phoenix Props "arrow" greeblies piggy backed next to each other. Mounted right above stock hinge. Like the scope rail these parts fit better if they have a concave back to match the curvature of the dds body. Glued in place:

Glue three round greeblies with CA glue. The first round grebblie (closest to back) was lined up with the round indentation in the primer channel and the round dot of the scope rail and inline just above the stock hinge. Glue:

Fill Ammo gaps. Left rough. [

Glue Back Cap Retainer clip and fill. Notched out of rear spring cap

Fill Gaps Between The Folding Stock & Receiver.