cjdesign

This is the seller picture... he cut it in half before shipping. The magazine is only 4.5 inches now.

This question was asking by a new member... How do I go about fitting the forearms and biceps? Alignment: You are keeping the return edge on the tops of the bi-cep and forearm, so align the tops first before taping. The bottoms will most likely NOT line up. That's OK. The bottom return edges will get trimmed off and you can file them even later on.... I preferred removing and trimming the return edges before actually making any fittings or cuts. I think you get a better sizing when the return edges are actual size and have less overlap. Fitting: Wrap the Left & Right pieces together, secure with blue tape. Adjust as needed. The armor should fit snug but not tight and have a nice taper. Don't forget to leave enough room to squeeze your hand through the wrist opening. Keep in mind the pieces should be large enough to accommodate flexed muscles. During this process, you may get abrasions on your hands from putting the armor on and off. Marking & Cutting: Once you are satisfied with the fit. it's time to make the cut line with a pencil. The final cuts will be positioned inline with the center line of your forearm and or bicep. You may need to angle the cut (center to center) to match the taper of your piece. Error on the side of making the cut too big. You can always file down for a perfect fit. I made a single pencil mark on the outer edge of both pieces, simultaneously, to indicate the cutting mark locations. I lined up the pencil marks with my metal ruler and taped the ruler in place. Using the ruler as a guide, gently make the first pass with the blade - I used an Ex-acto blade for all my cuts. I repeated this process 2-3 times to assure a deep enough cut and clean edge. TIP: For a cleaner final edge... gently bend the abs along the entire cut/seam, and then snap apart as one piece. Separating the plastic in sections will create a jagged edge. Other notes: • The cover strips for the forearm and bicep should be around 15mm wide. • The bicep with the spoon is the left. • The forearm with the curve and 12 dimples is on the right. • The biceps are shaped like a race track and may need heat (via a heat gun) to shape better.

No stupid questions... You'll need a substantial amount of return edge at the base of the kidney and top of the butt plate to install brackets or risk breaking the plastic. I considered the bracket system as well, but in the end found the am 2.0 kit didn't have enough of a return edge to create a solid connection. This kit is more conducive to snaps only. You will need 40-50 snaps depending on the build. get good quality "tandy" type.

I thought it was a guys name "Alu". Thanks for clarifying.

alu?

Here is the sterling parts kit I just acquired. Which parts can I use, which part do I need to destroy or alter in order to build my blaster legally in California? Obviously omitting the bolt and barrel tube would be first step. Any guidance from troopers in California that have done this type of conversation would be appreciated. Thanks!

I just finished my am 2.0 last week. Navajo Bro is a great thread and will get you going in the right direction. Here is my am 2.0 thread as well. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33463-cjdesigns-am-20-build/ Feel free to message me questions... good luck and have fun!

This is the link I was supplied with when I had a similar concerns. Here is tips on ears that will help you out.----------

sent my application off to the local gml today... woot woot.

Trimming and shaping the eyes and removing most of the return edge to be more authentic to esb. I left 4-5mm or so...

Shins: Important: Please read this thread on the correct placement of parts: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/44-howto-assemble-am-armor-shins/ Install outter cover strips... it time to Install the sniper plate... the top of the plate kept pushing against my knee cap on my first install, and there was a large gap in the front. out of the box this piece is very stiff and doesn't sit flush against the shin cover stripe. ...so this time I heated up with a heat gun (always heat the back of the piece) and shaped it to the shin first. much better results. glue the area with e6000: Clamping... I used multiple stacked 1.25 rare earth magnets to create more pressure on the center area. I have multiple blood blisters on my finger tips from these magnets accidentally snapping together - so be careful. Not to mention you'll need the finger strength of a mountain climber to get them apart afterward. LOL. Looks better, less gap... and angle of the plate feels better on the knee cap.

Here are the final helmet details...

pm'd u with an offer....

It took me three weeks to complete my am 2.0 build. i've learned so much over that coarse. My first night of trooping didn't go without a hitch. My left side belt rivet busted, the shin cover strip was pulling away at the bottom, my Helmet fan battery died premature ( hot and foggy all night )... but it was well worth it. I will be posting more of my build soon.

ditto!

Changes to the AM 2.0: -Helmet has been completely redesigned to be more accurate in overall size, and tube size. Still maintains our 3 piece design for durability. Trim lines and screw dimples have been added for easier assembly -Overlap strips have been removed from the Calves and thighs and will require butt-joint / cover strip method of assembly. -Calves have been remade to be more accurate, fit better, and no more over lap strips.. -Thermal Detonator has been redesigned with a new custom extruded abs tube in the correct gray color, with new control pad and caps. -New shoulder straps, also including smooth ones for TD builds. -New abdomen and knee belts, more accurate. -New drop boxes, includes inner drop boxes -New more accurate knee plates - chest completely redesigned to be more accurate and acceptable for all levels of approval - Back plate completely redesigned to be more accurate a d acceptable for all levels of approval - biceps modified to only one spoon and overlap removed for butt joint / cover strip assembly -forearms completely resculpted to be more accurate and overlap removed. - Completely resculpted shoulder bells to be more accurate

I just realized that I needed to create a photobucket account to store my photos... and then you can place the photos embed code from PB into FISD. Yeah!!! I realized that the 250k limit wasn't going to suffice.

7mm head x 8mm post are the correct sized rivets if go with double cap type. I bought 100 for $5.00

When the CRL refers to AM they mean AM 1.0. I agree it should be more clear as to what versions.

Am 1.0 is not accepted. AM 2.0 is ok!! quote: "- 2.0 Back plate completely redesigned to be more accurate and acceptable for all levels of approval" let's spread truth...

what's wrong with the back plate? "but the back plate will need to be swapped out for Centurion."

here are the am 2.0 pieces...------------------ Quote: " The "new suit" in some of those comparisons (mytkarmor.com) is a suit we pulled for a little while called "NE". This suit is no longer made due to some recast claims on a couple of pieces. The AM 2.0 molds are newer than either of those shown in those pics. The site needs to be updated. " - TG

Tim wanted to know "What are the new improvements?" That site clearly shows the differences in the versions. that's all. I'm not advocating for any person or entity. Take this with a grain of salt... I acquired mine via Trooper Gear

Careful?

Day 20: Finalizing the belt with the proverbial e6000 icing on the cake - I mean rivet covers. Thanks "TKittell" out of Colorado for the awesome belt. Highly recommended. The rivets ane snaps I used: Dritz Mini Anorak Snaps & Tools Kit - Blk Oxy -12mm -10 Ct http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-Mini-Anorak-Snaps-Tools/dp/B00CO67CA4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1448646106&sr=8-2&keywords=mini+anorak+snaps JoAnn's Fabric store or any other fabric store should have them as well.. good luck. FYI they come in Black onyx, chrome, and few other finishes. I used gun metal/dark on all snaps. I also used these cap rivets to attach the canvas belt to the front ammo piece and cod. 7mm Gunmetal Round Double Cap Rapid Rivet https://www.etsy.com/listing/87374880/50pcs-7mm-gunmetal-round-double-cap?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_us_supplies-commercial-low-other&utm_custom1=a5137673-8567-4bbc-ae9e-0129ba31243b&gclid=Cj0KEQiAm-CyBRDx65nBhcmVtbIBEiQA7zm8lSgCV3d3CcvCRfPvCe_FY796Ke0a8l2jtIEIeaY_jUEaAvzV8P8HAQ I purchased a 100 count bag on ebay. you'll need extra to practice with - trust me! Belt? Check! Ab buttons painted? Check! Important Note: Trooperbay's youtube example of measuring and placing the snaps in a predetermined position on the ab plate first will not work with the AM 2.0 armor configuration. It may work for another manufacturer's armor but not mine. Make sure the female snap is placed somewhere within the first ammo indentation/recession OR the belt will not sit flat against the plastic ammo piece. Trooper bays' example had me outside the sweet spot and I had to re-drill the holes and set new snaps once again. Complete the snaps on the belt first, then transfer the placement of the snaps over to the AB plate. The dropbox strapping should loop around the belt and align between the 7mm rivet and mini snap. Don't forget to feed the dropboxes through the belt before setting the outer rivets. Wear the respirator when gluing e6000