sskunky

I can assure you that when these things were built originally they had little regard for mm precision and positioning of bits stuck to blasters. You can tell the care they took with continuity when you look at all the different troopers in the film. Some had CO2 can some didn't, some had parts on the wrong legs and arms, some had stuff on backwards, Gaffer tape, some were missing stripes and mic tips on their helmets, some 'Blasters' had counters, sights, power cylinders, some didn't. They used different sights, counters etc........ Real Sterlings, resin casts...... My view is if it looks good and similar to an original then that's "good enough" Not to mention the 6 foot rule. If you could not see it from 6 foot then it didn't matter. They did not have HD/Bluray in the 70's and 80's so it didn't matter. Look at Vader, his helmet has marks , scratches and dents...... The Helmets & chestboxes I own, cast from originals have modelmakers fingerprints on them! LOL Take it all with a pinch of salt........ If you like it that should be enough to keep you happy. We can all obsess about it, but things changed so much during filming that any position of anything should be fine. Vern, you criticised my blaster when it was shown off. I made no assumption that it was totally accurate to any scene. And yes the curly wires are not the right colour. BUT....... I love it and it was an inspiration to others to build blasters whether real Sterlings or not. And that's what I think matters more. IMO. On faith a few pics. (Which are mine)

I agree that the colour does look a bit lighter but I was surprised the original ANH helmet I handled was not as dark as it looks in pictures.

I've actually held a screen used ANH helmet and the grey looks a lot lighter in real life than the testors and the hero pic you posted Vern. The pic of the hero is not the correct white balance for a start. Even the white looks grey. It's really down to personal choice. I'd say the Humbrol is a bit lighter than it used to be but the testors is a bit too dark in my opinion.

I paint mine satin black. The only place I use gloss is the pinstripe round the ears and the rank stripe on the ears.

Ah, ok. So its a fan sculpt. Cool.

I must be out the loop. What is NE armor?

Was it cold when you used them? If you soak them in hot water before you use them it thins the paint a bit and it tends to spray better......

The easiest way to paint the pinstripe is to use a very small/thin brush and paint the black gloss stripe first. Let that dry then you can paint the gloss grey over with a bigger brush. That way you can cut into the black pinstripe with the grey making the stripe nice and thin. Make sure you let each colour dry before trying to paint the next. As Ladyinwhite says a larger round tipped brush for the vocoder and good masking tape on the teeth/frown to get a nice sharp edge.

It is a shame I was going to put a load of laser cut kits together for anyone interested in buying them but Lucas seems to have fallen off the radar. I have tried to email home a few times but to no avail. If he does find the time to get back to me you will all be the first to know. He was designing my web page too so I am keen to get that moving.

I've been trying to get hold of Lucas for a while now but he seems to have fallen off the radar. I was hoping to have all the laser plans so we could get this ball rolling. I've got some of them but still missing some major pieces. Until Lucas gets back to me my hands are tied. I know he's been busy with family and work. Hopefully he'll find some time to get back on the hobby again soon. Cheers, Mark.

5/4 were used in the original suits. 5 cap size, 4 snap size

I've never had any problems with the 4 helmets I've made from my moulds and I've got the trilogy. ANH, ESB AND 2 ROTJ. I think the problem lies with the helmets cast from none originals as in many generations removed as they have lost the undercuts that the next gen helmets have. Of course TM isn't cast from original but we all know how good they are in comparison and retain a undercut. Mine are all quite wonky and lumpy but the trim stays on fine. I don't think in all the helmets I have made over the years have I ever glued on the S trim. What s trim are you using? Is it imported from the UK from seals direct? If so it should do the trick.

You shouldn't need glue. If you cut the right amount it should just pressure fit.

Congrats buddy!!!! Another CFO joins the ranks.....

I personally prefer the RomFx system. You can wire it up wirelessly if you get the right kit but it is unparalleled in performance as far as I'm concerned. It eliminates practically all feedback and you get the static burst automatically. Next option is the Hyperdyne Trooper amp and very good just a little more fiddly to set up but it is more customizable and you can do bounty hunter and other effects too. It's not as feedback friendly as the RomFx though.

Nice one Eric! Congratulations Frank..... again!.....

CONGRATS!!!!!

Well, That all looks good to me! If I was in charge I think that would be Centurion! But then I am somewhat biased!

CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!!!!!

Wow! Looking good buddy. I have seen a couple of different C0 details. Some are like the ANH/ESB and others like the one I supply. As for the butt plate being accurate, I'd say so. It's cast from original.

All the best mate, hope it goes well.

Looks bloody great mate! Good luck for the assembly by tomorrow, That's gonna be a push even for you no doubt!

Congrats mate.

Hmmmm..... Without you buying the original helmets we wouldn't be producing JoeR helmets at all.